little brake adjustment lever/thumbwheel name? Replaceable?
10-18-20, 02:36 AM
#1
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little brake adjustment lever/thumbwheel name? Replaceable?
Please would someone tell me the official name for little brake adjustment lever, that you open to take your wheel off, or for minor adjustments of brake tension on the road?
Are these things purchasable as Shimano (rear BR5800)? I broke the lever off mine because it got stiff and I used pliers on it. Now I can't turn it without pliers. On auctions Japan there are only spare pairs of brakes that I can see and they start at about 40USD second-hand for a set, or a new rear BR-R7000 (105) brake which is about the same price.
Are these things purchasable as Shimano (rear BR5800)? I broke the lever off mine because it got stiff and I used pliers on it. Now I can't turn it without pliers. On auctions Japan there are only spare pairs of brakes that I can see and they start at about 40USD second-hand for a set, or a new rear BR-R7000 (105) brake which is about the same price.
Last edited by timtak; 10-18-20 at 02:48 AM.
10-18-20, 08:59 AM
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I think you refer to the brake caliper’s quick release lever.
10-18-20, 01:20 PM
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This perhaps
10-18-20, 03:27 PM
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I've never seen them for sale separately.
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10-18-20, 05:47 PM
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I think on 105 and below, they're riveted on. You could probably grind off the rivet and fit one from an Ultegra or Dura-Ace brake of suitable vintage, but in almost all cases you'd be better off just chucking another brake on (unless of course you found a busted brake of the right sort).
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10-19-20, 12:02 AM
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Thank you. Spot on, as demonstrated by Bob's picture.
Thank you very much yes that. So it is not for adjustment. I read elsewhere that fully open and fully closed are safe but that midway positions may result in braking failure.
Thank you.
Thank you. I trust and believe you are entirely right.
Drat. It seems like I am going to have to pay 40USD for a new brake, or about that for a second hand pair.
At the moment I am making do with a "dangerous" midway position where I can just about push the tire through the pads.
Thank you very much yes that. So it is not for adjustment. I read elsewhere that fully open and fully closed are safe but that midway positions may result in braking failure.
Thank you.
I think on 105 and below, they're riveted on. You could probably grind off the rivet and fit one from an Ultegra or Dura-Ace brake of suitable vintage, but in almost all cases you'd be better off just chucking another brake on (unless of course you found a busted brake of the right sort).
Drat. It seems like I am going to have to pay 40USD for a new brake, or about that for a second hand pair.
At the moment I am making do with a "dangerous" midway position where I can just about push the tire through the pads.
10-19-20, 01:44 AM
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Well, I do use mine for adjustment. Oops.
If it seized that badly what condition is the rest of the calliper in?
If it seized that badly what condition is the rest of the calliper in?
10-19-20, 02:34 AM
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Pretty sure the Shimano QRs work fine as an adjustment; put one halfway open and reef on the brake lever, and you won't budge it. Clever design.
If it's the tear brake, I'd just use the barrel adjuster for a slow release and forget about it. If it's the front brake, you can just swap the arm over, only the spindle is different. (Your front wheel comes off more often, right?)
If it's the tear brake, I'd just use the barrel adjuster for a slow release and forget about it. If it's the front brake, you can just swap the arm over, only the spindle is different. (Your front wheel comes off more often, right?)
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
10-19-20, 09:35 AM
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^ This.
If it's seized or that tight then you've let it get far to dirty/corroded. When anything like that comes into the shop I yank the caliper from the frame and soak it. Then I blow it out with compressed air and lube up everything that is supposed to be able to move.
That's all being paid for at my shop rate.
Even if you could find the part - I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you need a new caliper and by the time you get done messing with the current one you would most likely have been better off just buying a new one.
If it's seized or that tight then you've let it get far to dirty/corroded. When anything like that comes into the shop I yank the caliper from the frame and soak it. Then I blow it out with compressed air and lube up everything that is supposed to be able to move.
That's all being paid for at my shop rate.
Even if you could find the part - I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you need a new caliper and by the time you get done messing with the current one you would most likely have been better off just buying a new one.
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10-19-20, 09:56 AM
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10-19-20, 10:00 AM
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I think on 105 and below, they're riveted on. You could probably grind off the rivet and fit one from an Ultegra or Dura-Ace brake of suitable vintage, but in almost all cases you'd be better off just chucking another brake on (unless of course you found a busted brake of the right sort).
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10-19-20, 03:56 PM
#12
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Thank you. Spot on, as demonstrated by Bob's picture.
Thank you very much yes that. So it is not for adjustment. I read elsewhere that fully open and fully closed are safe but that midway positions may result in braking failure.
Thank you.
Thank you. I trust and believe you are entirely right.
Drat. It seems like I am going to have to pay 40USD for a new brake, or about that for a second hand pair.
At the moment I am making do with a "dangerous" midway position where I can just about push the tire through the pads.
Thank you very much yes that. So it is not for adjustment. I read elsewhere that fully open and fully closed are safe but that midway positions may result in braking failure.
Thank you.
Thank you. I trust and believe you are entirely right.
Drat. It seems like I am going to have to pay 40USD for a new brake, or about that for a second hand pair.
At the moment I am making do with a "dangerous" midway position where I can just about push the tire through the pads.
10-19-20, 05:29 PM
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That was copied from Campagnolo's original Record caliper from 1969. It was intended to be used to open the caliper for wheel removal or as a short-term fix for a badly out-of-true wheel until your team car could provide a replacement, not as a long term adjustment that's what the barrel adjuster is for. Everybody started using it when Campagnolo's patent lapsed.
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10-19-20, 06:39 PM
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It must be nice to have a "bike room." Our tool shed is for everything.
Thanks for letting me know that the halfway position is okay. I am not sure of the condition of the rear brake other than that it works okay. I guess it needs taking apart and cleaning.
There is also a set of dual pivot R7000 73usd all in. They look nice.
I bought a dual pivot R7000 rear only for 40USD from Amazon Japan.
Thank you for everyone's advice.
The R7000 rear brake is now on the bike and I am imagining I detect a performance improvement.
Last edited by timtak; 10-26-20 at 07:21 PM.
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