slow_runner

I purchased a Brooks B67 that requires attention. What should best be used to clean these saddles? This one needs more than a light wipe. The leather is largely intact except for a very light scuff where it has fallen over(?) and made contact.
The underside may have some lacquer applied way back?
I have a small tin of Proofide and plenty of soft beeswax that I use for rust prevention and wood treatment.
Is Proofide the bees knees and preferred above all else?

The coil springs and spreader bar need attention and maybe replacement - I have a couple of Morrison saddles with half decent chrome suspension that may afford a cost effective replacement solution if needs be.

I-Like-To-Bike

Nothing applied except your own all natural sweat is best.

Why would the coil springs or spreader bar on a B66 or B67 need attention unless they are broken?

slow_runner

Thanks L2B
Due to my low post count I am unable to post images at the mo.
There is rust on the coil springs, spreader bar and fastening nuts. I will make a decision on reuse or replacement when I have removed them and given them some phosphoric or oxalic acid treatment.
The rust may be more of a staining issue and be less of a problem than it appears.
I had a look in the shed and found a ratty Brooks vinyl seat, the type with the furniture style tension springs. It has what appear to be identical coils and spreader except galvanised(?); if I need to I may rob the required bits.

c_m_shooter

Leave the rust, proofide the leather and ride it. They last a long time for me even if totally neglected. I have replaced rails on crash damaged saddles and it was just a waste of effort. This coming from someone who has ridden Brooks saddles on every bike I have owned for the last 15 years.

Unca_Sam

Rub some proofide into the scuff to provide the water resistance there, and it'll be good to go. If it's stained or has ground in dirt, judicious use of saddle soap can help pull some out. I agree with the other posters regarding replacing the coils. If it bothers you, you can soak the rails and coils in some evaporust while leaving the leather out of the solution, or just take some #0000 steel wool to the rust spots, and coat the rails and coils with a light layer of fluid film or persistent rust inhibitor.

I like fluid film because it doesn't dry, and you only need the thinnest layer. It works just like the metal preservatives for tool steel. If you need to get it off, it's not that difficult either.

slow_runner

Cheers, Shooter. I had a good look at it today and as can be found with most rust, a lot of it is staining from smaller more 'serious' corrosion.
I have some phosphoric acid that I am confident will do the trick. I can attend to that without risking the leather.

slow_runner

Hi Sam. There is a saddlery up the road where I can purchase some saddle soap.
I have some treatment that turns red rust to magnetite and seals. Or for protection there my bees wax, and also Grandads old metal protection, Linseed oil; the boiled stuff.
I haven't come across 'fluid film' or 'persistant' but I imagine it is much like most products, just a labeling exercise?

Unca_Sam

Fluid film is aerosolized pure lanolin. It never dries out. It's an effective air barrier to curb rust from forming and to repel water. I like it for old chrome parts on a bike after I remove the rust, and I've been putting a little in the bolt sockets to discourage water from resting there if the bike might get wet.

I got the idea from this thread at MTBR.

Definition of 'persistent'.

Stormsedge

I use Proofride...I put it on the top and as much of the bottom as I can reach. I was pretty heavy handed with it when I first got the seat, but really only do it now if the bike has been in the rain.

slow_runner

Ah, lanolin. Well we have an abundance of the source grazing here. Not as many as there used to be due to the decline in wool prices (thanks to acrylics) but still plenty of the woolly creatures.
I have used Prolan previously, years back, and may still have some in the shed- I think it has a solvent carier.
IIRC there could be some CorrosionX there too.
Straight lanolin, wax or linseed oil appeals most.
Thanks for the insight Sam

Unca_Sam

:lol

First thought when you said you have lots of lanolin just grazing: "I wonder if he's in NZ?" The I peeped your location!

Fluid film has no solvent, which makes me wonder how it stays liquid when the temperature drops now. Maybe the propellant is the 'solvent'. Anyways, restore that saddle and enjoy the comfy ride!

slow_runner

I have a tin of that Proofide here Stormsedge. I think it is the larger tin so it should last a while.
Today I checked out the B67 and decided to strip out the frame, treat the rust and the leather. The fastenings came free reasonably easy then I wire wheeled them as any zinc had long gone to be replaced by oxide. The chrome items will be put in some Phosphoric acid then washed, dried and waxed.
If it of any importance to anyone, I did note that both spring tighter end coils are secured at the frame.
Some images of the B67




As advertised 3


Frame removed and coating scapped off 2


Frame removed and coating scapped off 1


As advertised 1


As advertised 2

Kabuki12

I have a great western/cowboy shop that I visit from time to time and bought a set of really nice boots from them. They recommended Dr. Marten's leather conditioner and it works amazingly well. I just finished treating a Brooks Professional from the early 70's and it WAS rock hard. It is now playable and ready to use. I set it out in the sun until it was warm to the touch and then applied Dr. Marten's on both the top and the bottom of the saddle . I let it saturate overnight and then removed the excess the next day. I repeated this multiple times until I got the desired effect. Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress

slow_runner

Dr. Marten's leather conditioner, Joe?
I will give it a bash if this doesn't give me a satisfactory result. Thanks.

Whats been happening....
I ordered some Fiebling saddle soap from Lapco, a leather supplier in Auckland midday on Friday. It was at my door early today, Monday morning. Now that is good service!
Over the weekend I soaked the chromework in my dilute Phosphoric acid for an hour or so, then dislodged the heavier rust scale with a fine screwdriver followed by a worn green pad to work the stain. Washed and dried the pieces for overnight, Sunday morning I repeated the soak and finished off with the pad, dried the lot and let it sit in the sun for a few hours before thoroughly coating it all with beeswax.
The sling rivets were given attention with the Dremel and a fine stainless wheel - looking good.
Next is the saddle soap clean, then the conditioning.

I will put some images up when I get a chance, - tomorrow?

Lenton58 

After initial applications of Profide, assuming this was done when new to both top and underside, I'd just get to a tack shop and buy saddle soap. It cleans without further softening the leather and leaves a beneficial effect. Other than this (others may scorn me - who cares) get a dab of neutral shoe polish (like Kiwi) and rub it into the scar — ONLY —. If you do the whole saddle you will slide around like on ice.

Everyone has their own version of this stuff, but mine dates back to 1958 — my first Brooks saddle. No regrets!

Unca_Sam

Saddle soap will soften the leather a little, as well as adding some wax for water resistance. Neither of these things are bad for a parched saddle.

slow_runner

Wisdom from experience is always welcome, thank you.

Here are images of the hardware after cleaning and waxing.

Lenton58 

The Hardware looks GREAT. Get some wax or WD40 in it to help keep corrosion off it. Some may laugh off WD40, but I recently saw a vid that said unpainted rockets (to save weight) were slavered in WD 40 to ward off corrosion. WHY? It was originally designed as a water displacer.

slow_runner

The Brooks is assembled and looking well. I set time aside yesterday and utilised my side of the kitchen table for the operation . It was tolerated well by the boss and was a comfortable spot with the squalls that were driving in over the morning.
The leather still feels a bit hard but is much improved on its' previous condition. In my limited experience (nil) the saddle will benefit from some more nourishment.
The whole leather was treated with Proofride while the metalwork was worked with a local 'Bee Kind' beeswax product and toothbrush.