Chris King 1" headset - will any old washer work?
05-14-14, 08:58 PM
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Chris King 1" headset - will any old washer work?
I received an old (80s?) Chris King 1" threaded headset as part of my periodic gift from bike parts sellers on eBay today. Looking at the entry on Velobase, it appears to be complete except for the thrust washer that fits between the lock nut and the adjusting nut.
OTOH, the 2Nut headset user manual on the Chris King website:
https://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/2Nut.pdf
doesn't show a thrust washer.
Will any old tabbed 1" headset washer do the job? The headset seems to be all aluminum, so should I aim to find a metallurgically compatible washer?
Most importantly, would this have been an 80s "trick" upgrade (all the cool kids had 'em)?
Thx...
OTOH, the 2Nut headset user manual on the Chris King website:
https://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/2Nut.pdf
doesn't show a thrust washer.
Will any old tabbed 1" headset washer do the job? The headset seems to be all aluminum, so should I aim to find a metallurgically compatible washer?
Most importantly, would this have been an 80s "trick" upgrade (all the cool kids had 'em)?
Thx...
05-14-14, 09:32 PM
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Firstly, to avoid confusion, you do not need a thrust washer. Thrust washers are usually free on one side, either acting on a bearing or a sliding surface and the washer retains the rolling element next to it in place by resisting the forces coming from it against the face plane of the washer. That is not what happens between the top nut and the top race....
What you need is what you might already have, a tabbed or "D" washer, depending on what you have for a steerer tube (A flat or a groove or sometimes just threads without flats or grooves).
As for that tabbed washer working with your headset?, sure it will, as long as your steerer tube has the groove cut on the threaded portion for the tab to fit into, and you have enough steerer tube legnth to assure you have sufficient thread engagement for your top nut..
Frankly, I try to stay away from tabbed washers though, as they sometimes tend to bung up the threads on the steerer tube if the fit into the groove, is not tight/perfect and you try to loosen the top lock nut without a second headset wrench keeping the top race from moving. I usually just grind off the tab or the flat (if it is a "D" washer) and just use two wrenches to tighten up the top nut against the washer and the top race. Frankly you don't even really need the washer if you tighten the top nut against the top race against each other sufficiently and your lock nut would not bottom out on the steerer tube.....
What you need is what you might already have, a tabbed or "D" washer, depending on what you have for a steerer tube (A flat or a groove or sometimes just threads without flats or grooves).
As for that tabbed washer working with your headset?, sure it will, as long as your steerer tube has the groove cut on the threaded portion for the tab to fit into, and you have enough steerer tube legnth to assure you have sufficient thread engagement for your top nut..
Frankly, I try to stay away from tabbed washers though, as they sometimes tend to bung up the threads on the steerer tube if the fit into the groove, is not tight/perfect and you try to loosen the top lock nut without a second headset wrench keeping the top race from moving. I usually just grind off the tab or the flat (if it is a "D" washer) and just use two wrenches to tighten up the top nut against the washer and the top race. Frankly you don't even really need the washer if you tighten the top nut against the top race against each other sufficiently and your lock nut would not bottom out on the steerer tube.....
Last edited by Chombi; 05-14-14 at 09:46 PM.
05-15-14, 04:43 AM
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Thanks. "Thrust" didn't sound right. I knew it started with a "t" though. 
This would go on my Redcay to replace the Campy Athena headset, which just doesn't look right to me on a vintage bike.
This would go on my Redcay to replace the Campy Athena headset, which just doesn't look right to me on a vintage bike.
05-15-14, 05:48 AM
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How vintage is your Redcay? I don't know when Jim built, but steel Campy Record is my first pick for a headset for vintage steel. But then for me, vintage is 1980 and back.
Tange clones would be next, then the newer sealed bearing Tange. I'll want a new headset for my lugged Terraferma, and I'll probably get a Chris King. I like durable.
Seeing where you live, I'd ask Ron Boi for a recommendation.
Tange clones would be next, then the newer sealed bearing Tange. I'll want a new headset for my lugged Terraferma, and I'll probably get a Chris King. I like durable.
Seeing where you live, I'd ask Ron Boi for a recommendation.
05-15-14, 06:06 AM
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The Redcay is a '79. I will post some pictures of the headset when I get a moment. It has the same style as the Record, is all alloy, and has sealed bearings to boot. More-or-less by accident, this bike is becoming my "trick" bike. It's got Phil hubs and bottom bracket, Bullseye pulleys, and 1st gen SR derailleur. (It also has Galli chainrings, but I don't count them as a "period upgrade.") I figured the King headset would be a nice complement to the other non-standard bits.
Edit: Oh, yeah. The headset is one of those ones where the only markings are on the locknut. The cups are unmolested by the later "Chris King" logos.
Edit: Oh, yeah. The headset is one of those ones where the only markings are on the locknut. The cups are unmolested by the later "Chris King" logos.
