DESERTFOX_TR

Hello everybody

I have a city bike (tourney) 48-38-28, cassette 14-28 7 speed (total 21 speed) (14-16-18-20-22-24-28)
When I am riding on flat road (not climbing or down my english not enough sorry) my muscles is tired at gear 2-3 (front 2,rear 3 38-22) (if you will say that you don't have condition,I ride bicycle 200 kilometers every month)

if I want to change casette (12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32 ) or buy a new bike (I am thinking buy a new bike for a lot of season)
​​​​​
2-3
my bike 38-22
new bike or new casette 38-24

​​​​​Can you compare around? is it worth?

Retro Grouch 

Can you find a gear to ride in that doesn't make you feel so tired? Try shifting gears more often and see how that works for you.

DESERTFOX_TR

​​​​​ when I ride 16-17 kilometers hours I use 1-3 (front,rear,it is soft gear,I am not tired) gear but I want to go faster I have to change my gear 2-3 this speed options is tired me

livedarklions

Welcome to BF!

I'm a little confused by your post. What happens when you ride the current bike at 38-24? Why would you need a new cassette to try that?

I think that people's advice on which gears you should use is pretty worthless because it varies so much by the characteristics of your legs and general physique. Lots of things can make your legs tired, though. I think you meant to type that there were a lot of reasons you were considering a new bike--is one of them how the bike fits? That can be a problem that can make your legs tired. Also, check your seat height--too low and you are going to push too hard per stroke, too high and your legs will start hurting from getting over-extended.

You mention 200 km/month. Have you been doing that for very long? As someone who has built up to the point where I often ride 200 km in a day, I can tell you that my conditioning is a lot better than it was when I rode a lot less. If you're in the process of increasing your ride length, some leg tiredness is normal.

jefnvk

Try your current bike in 2-2. It will be the same thing. The 2/3 numbers dont mean anything except to give you an idea where you are when shifting, the 38-22 and 38-24 are what are important. You already have a 38-24.

If you go to a new casette on your old bike, you will also need new shifters, and possibly a new rear wheel if your 7 speed is a freewheel instead of a cassette.

DESERTFOX_TR

hello my current bike 38-22
I bought my bike 11 months ago.I rode total 2300 kilometers with it.
I adjusted my seat (high,low setting true maybe forward,backward setting some wrong,I will check again)
I ride for 5-6 kilometers and arrive destination.I feel a pain at my muscle.If I will rest,it will be reduce
When I ride 38-22 my leg want softer gear,38-22 diffucult for me

livedarklions

I think something may be getting lost in the translation, but I don't understand why you can't ride 2-2 on the current cassette, which would be 38-24.

Is there some reason 2-2 doesn't work?

Retro Grouch 

That's only 2 of your potential gearing combinations. Try some of the others and see what happens.

DESERTFOX_TR

2-2 is working,but my bicycle guide say that you should use right gear combination for gear health.My guide say that true gear 1-1 1-2 1-3 2-3 2-4 2-5 3-6 3-7 You shouldnt cross gear combination

clengman

I have a bike with a very similar drivetrain (I have a 34T bailout sprocket instead of the 28T, the 7 speed "Megarange").

I have no problem using all 7 rear sprockets with the middle chainring (front). The only combinations I avoid completely are 1-7 and 3-1. I would go ahead and try more of your gear combinations. If the bike starts making some ugly noises, try to figure out what's rubbing. You might be able to fix it with some minor adjustments.

jefnvk

With a seven speed, I find the only gear combos I can't always use are big-big and little-little. It isn't even an issue to use those on one of my two current seven speeds. If it isn't making noise, I wouldn't be concerned.

livedarklions

Yeah, ignore that. The middle chain ring should be fine with everything, and what's the worst that can happen? You'd have to replace the chain, right?
If 2-2 works for you, use it. You'll feel and hear the cross chaining if it's a problem, so "I'm comfortable at 2-2" is fine proof that the combination works.

If that answer really bugs you, try 28-18. It's almost the same gear ratio.

GrainBrain

+1 to what clengman, livedarklions and jefnvk said.

For your question about 7 speed vs 8 speed ...

Your 7 speed gear spacing (14-16-18-20-22-24-28) is superior to the 8 speed you mentioned (12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32). However there are a few more eight speed combinations available, but that 7 speed spacing is really perfect.

bicyclridr4life

Changing to the 8 speed is not going to help.
You'll add one go slow gear, and gain a go fast gear that you can't or won't use.
The 8 speed's 21 tooth 4th will be noticably harder than the 7 speed's 22 tooth 3rd.

I hate to tell you, but 200Km (124.27 miles) a month is not really very far.
Based on a 30 day month and riding every day regardless of the weather, that works out to 6.66Km (4.14 miles) a day, providing my calculator and the Km to Miles conversion site did not lie to me.
(Sorry, I don't know Km that well. I had to convert to miles to understand the distances involved.)

I would encourage you to increase the kelometers/miles you ride each week, if you can.
As a suggestion, work your way up to 88 to 100Km (55 to 62 miles) a week. You're already putting in 24Km a week. You don't have to reach that 88Km goal in a week, either. Raise it gradually, take a month or two, if you want or need to. When can consistently put in 88 to 100Km a week, set a new goal and work towards meeting it.

A hint to help increase your distance:
Don't look at the distance all at once. You may become discouraged and give up.
Break the distance down into manageable segments.
For example, let's say you want to ride 88 Km.
88Km (55 miles) sounds like a lot all at once.
Break the distance down into manageable sections or segments.
If you look at it as "I rode my bike 22Km (13 miles) to the market to get ____. DARN!!! I forgot my wallet with all my money!!!
Ride the bike home, get the wallet.
Ride back to the market, get the ____, and ride home again."
Those four 22Km (13 mile) rides sound a lot more "doable" than 88Km all at once, yet the distance is the same.
Out on the road if you get discouraged, you can reset your immediate goal to the top of the next ridge, or the far end of the next field, the next block, or whatever, then reset your immediate goal to the next whatever when you get there.
Don't be afraid to stop and rest when you need to. Set a goal for a pub or cafe along your route, and stop there for a rest, beverage and a snack, then continue on. Just don't give up.

I would also suggest that you drop down from the 38 in front to the 28. That will give you more useable gears than you're using now, and will be easier on your knees while you build up strength and endurance. You just might find that you're going a little faster, too.
Don't use the smallest gear in back when using the small ring in front. Small Front + Small Rear, and Big Front + Big Rear will damage your chain. Only the middle chainring in front can use all the gears in back without damaging the chain.

My mountain bike is presently running a 28/38/42 BioPace in front and a 14-32 seven speed in the back.
I want to put on a 22/32/42 in front, but all I can find are black. I want silver. (Though truth to tell, I would not object to 22/32/38 in front.)
I'm setting the bike up for long distance self contained touring, on and off road; not racing.

My trike is running a 28 tooth chainring (I changed it from a 36 tooth) with a 14-28 seven speed in back. The back will be changed to a 14-36 in a couple of weeks. I pull a 4 wheel cart/trailer that will carry up to 1400 pounds (635 Kilograms) everywhere with the trike. Plus, the trike can carry another 220 pounds (100 kilograms) in the baskets, if I need to. I need low gearing on it to get up the hills. The trike weighs 75 to 80 pounds (32 to 36 Kilograms) by itself.

I'm currently only averaging around 400Km (248 miles) a week, or 57Km (35 miles) per day. I don't live close to anything, and I do not own a motor vehicle. There is no public transportation around here. The trike or bicycle are my only means of transportation.

I'm working on losing weight and getting back into better shape. A few years ago, I considered 100Km (62 miles) to 125 Km (77 miles) a short ride. I was averaging 9000Km (5600 miles) to 10,000Km (6200 miles) a year on my bicycle.
Unfortunately, I changed jobs and became an over the road truck driver. I had to stop riding my bike during those 4 years. With the constant sitting and no excercise, I gained 60 pounds, and my blood pressure went up.
Over the last two years, I've lost 30 pounds so far, and have my blood pressure back down in the "safe" zone, without any blood pressure medications.

bicyclridr4life

Changing from a 7 speed freewheel to a different 7 speed freewheel will not require new shifters, or any other modifications.
Changing from a 7 speed freewheel to a 7 speed cassette will require a new wheel or hub, since a freewheel and cassette are not interchangeable.
There is no reason he would need to replace the shifters going from freewheel to cassette; the cog spacing would remain the same.
Freewheel or cassette (they make both), if he "upgrades" to an 8 speed, then new shifters would be needed, and possibly a rear derailleur, if his existing one does not have enough adjustment to compensate for the additional gear.

When I upgraded my MTN Bike from 3x6 to 3x7, other than the freewheel, the only thing I had to change were the shifters. However, since I am not a fan at all, at all, of Shimano, I also replaced the rear derailleur with a SRAM X9. Shifters are SRAM X3 trigger shifters. I'm not a fan of Grip Shift, either.

The Mtn. Bike started out with a full Shimano Exage Mtn. Group. The only things that remain Shimano on the bike now is the front derailleur and the Exage BioPace crank and rings. And, those will be replaced when I can find a suitable replacement at a reasonable cost.
Like I said, I want a silver crankset - not an "everybody and their extended family has one" black. Silver cranksets and rings are getting hard to locate at a reasonable cost ... especially with the 22/32/38 or 42 rings I want.

DESERTFOX_TR

why dont believe me about my 200 km ride in month? previous momth I ride to work (for internship,I am univeriayu student) for 5 day in week (departure-return 10 km) (50 kilometer in week) I ride bicycle on weekend (one weekend least 30-40 kilometer) total 200+ kilometers

clengman

He believes you. He was just saying that 200km isn't really a lot compared to what a lot of people here ride in a month. I say it's great. 200km is better than 0km, especially if it's replacing km that you would have been traveling in a car. The more you ride the stronger you'll get. Maybe you'll want to push yourself to ride more, maybe not. Just keep having fun.

bicyclridr4life

Sorry? Why wouldn't I believe you?
I never said I didn't believe you.

I had not read the entire thread before I made my first post. For that, I apologise.

I will add to my comments concerning gearing above, here.

Ignore your book or manual that says you can only use the (to use your terms) 1,2, and 3 when using the "1" (28 tooth) up front, and the only gears you can use with the "3" 48 tooth in front are the 5,6, and 7 in back.
When you use the 28 tooth ring in front, the only one in back you should not use is the "7th gear", or if you prefer, the smallest. You can safely use the 1,2,3,4,5, and 6 gears with the 28 tooth front ring.
If or When you are using the 48 tooth in front, you should not use the 28 tooth (1st gear) in back. If you do, you're cross chaining, and that will damage your chain. With the big ring in front, you can safely use the 2,3,4,5,6, and 7 gears in back.
In the middle ring, you can safely use the 1,2,3,4,5,6, and 7 gears in back.
Your bike is a 3x7 or "21 speed". Because of cross chaining, there are two gears you should not use, effectively making your bike a "19 Speed".
21-2=19.
ALL bikes with multiple chain rings in front effectively lose two gears because of cross chaining.

I stand by what I said above. If you are having difficulties with the 38-22 gear, drop to the 28 tooth in front and leave it there until the "1-6" gear combination does not tire your legs at whatever your normal cadence is. ("Cadence" is how many times you normally turn the crank in a minute.)
If you have not done so already, put an inexpensive cycle computer on the bike, that will tell you your current speed, and maybe your average speed. If you want something fancier, that is up to you.

Concerning fitting the bike:
I'll also add that you want your knees slightly bent, when you are at the bottom of the pedal stroke, without rocking your hips.
Again, you can ignore what the book or manual says about how many mm or cm that should or "has" to be.
The fore-aft adjustment moves you a little closer to or farther away from the handlebar, and helps center your hips above the bottom bracket.
"Ideally" you want your back at roughly a 45° angle while riding, to properly distribute your weight between your hands and the part of you that you sit on.
You want your handlebar adjusted so it is even with or below the height of your bike seat, and you want your seat level, not nose up or nose down.

I don't know where you are, and I don't need to know.
If there is a bike shop near you that sells new bikes and services bikes, go there and have them fit your bike to you.
There may be a small charge for this service. If there is, it is well worth it when you take into consideration the pain and frustration you are avoiding.

Oso Polar

Hmm, check your seat height. It may be very low - this will cause your legs to get tired way faster.