Jeff Wolf

I purchased a Raleigh Competition in 1975, it was quite expensive at the time and no one I knew could understand why I would spend that much on a bicycle.. It was a fantastic ride and my only form of transportation (besides hitch hiking) at the time. I loved that bike however it was stolen less than a year after I purchased it. Today I purchased another. It appears to be all original and in great condition. I am curious as to what this bike is worth (to me it's priceless). I am most curious about the age and authenticity as the only number I can find on it is G5594 on the bottom bracket, which does not seem to conform to any info I could find online.

Bianchigirll 

Hello and welcome to the forums. Many things go into the value of a bike condition, location, desire of the buyer. rarity etc, however in this case I would say the value of this particular bike is what you paid for it. Would you have paid $20 more? $50 more?

To get a better idea of the value and year please tell us more about the bike what color it is and what components what components are one it. Also use the little photo icon at the top of the window to upload some good pics of the bike. As a new member you can't post them but someone else will track them down and post them for you.

Jeff Wolf

Thanks! I uploaded the photos using the little photo icon. Is there any way I can help anyone track them down?

T-Mar

I suspect the 'W' Worksop indicator is just missing or lightly stamped and that it's from May 1975. Since all frames built at the factory would have the 'W', it was common practice to pre-stamp this letter to save some time, which sometimes led to anomalies. It looks like the original tubular wheelset has been replaced with wired-on, which was a very common occurrence. Link to OP's photos: https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/527393

TugaDude

Congratulations on finding it. I took a quick look at the photos and it seems to be all original except for the wheels as T-Mar indicated. The saddle is likely original too. The condition appears to be excellent. I would have the bike serviced before attempting to ride it much. If you don't know how, it is easy enough to learn, but you might want to take it to a local shop if you are unsure. If this is a keeper, I'd plan on new bearings in the headset and bottom bracket. Value is always a guessing game. I know what I'd be willing to pay for certain bikes, but that doesn't help much. I looked at ebay and it wasn't super helpful. I did see some unrealistic asking prices. If I had to be pinned down, I would say $350-$400 is realistic.

rustystrings61 

Should you take the bike in to be serviced, point out to the mechanics that this bike has T.A. cranks that require a 23.0 mm crank puller, not the standard 22.0 that everyone else uses ('cept Stronglight, who had their own thing at 23.35 mm). If it's an old enough shop, they might have the OLD Park crank tool with the reversible head with both 22.0 and 23.0 sides. If you do your own work, look out for one of those tools, they're out there, and they sold a lot of them for many years.

This is a really lovely bike, and you did well to score it. I am with TugaDude and T-Mar on its general originality. There is a lovely 1975 example for sale in the C&V sales page for $600 shipped, which has been sitting for a while - though I think that's a pretty decent price, considering how clean that one is.

I wonder about T-Mar's dating it to 1975, though. Your bike is built with Carlton Capella lugs, an older lug pattern used in the early 1960s, if not earlier. The Competition originally came with Nervex Professional lugs, which were chromed in the '69 variants in dark green and black, then painted over in both the purple/lavendar and white/lagoon blue variants that weren't catalogued. When the Competition Mk. II like yours came out in '73, it was one of three models that to that point had all come with Nervex Professional lugs, but in that year all went to Carlton Capellas. The presence of these lugs is usually used to date Super Courses, Internationals and Competitions as 1973. The next year the International and Competition returned to Nervex Pro and the Super Course went to what, a Prugnat?

Yours is one of the best-looking Competitions I've seen in terms of the quality of the brazing. Mine, which was a basket case when I bought it, shows all of the worst hallmark of the bike boom. Note that your rear brake cable stop bridge appears to be STRAIGHT, where mine is 3-degrees off-kilter. Also, the points on the lugs on the front of the head tube on yours are properly filled in and brazed, while the tips of mine stand proud a fraction of an inch.

In terms of how it rides, it doesn't matter. The '73-76 Competition with the sloping crown and the rapid-taper chainstays has its own little cult. While yours is beautiful and largely stock, and you would be absolutely justified in leaving it just as it is with refreshed lubrication and consumables, the tire clearance and the geometry of these bikes makes them prime candidates for modification and hot-rodding. At some point you may want to both browse through and perhaps add to the Show Your Raleigh Competition thread. They're interesting bikes built with varying degrees of care and attention to detail out of good materials. This particular run has been described on this forum as a "1970s bike with 1930s geometry," and I think that's a fair assessment. Here's the page from the '73 catalog. They describe it as "a cycle that meets the needs of the young racer who demands high quality at a price or the touring fan who wants something more than the average 10-speed provides." In other words, classic British all-rounder kinda bike suitable with minor modifications or wheel changes for time trials, club runs and touring.

non-fixie 

Let's have at least one picture in here.



Really, really nice bike. Even if you don't care about originality, this selection of parts is exquisite. Beautiful, light and functional.

Get it some really nice and expensive 'open tubulars' and you've got a bike that's pretty much perfect IMO.

DMC707

I am asking $600 for mine in similar condition here on the for sale forum . Its worth it, but needs the right buyer who does not mind tubulars. Im surprised at how light the bike is given the steel pillar seatpost and leather saddle