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Best 80s cantilever brake?

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Best 80s cantilever brake?

Old 09-24-12, 09:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Whats with this tire? Is the light or dirt or is it really a snakeskin pattern?


Really a pattern, don't remember who makes them but they are available in different colors and patterns. If I remember the maker I'll edit and post a link.

Edit: Opps, Chris_in_Miami beat me to it.

Edit #2: Here's a little more info on the tires
http://www.mtbr.com/mfr/sweetskinz/mcl_12935crx.aspx
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Last edited by calstar; 09-24-12 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 09-24-12, 09:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
The 983 was a slight improvement over the 982. They made it easier to grip the height adjuster by giving it a knurled flange and they added material to stiffen the arms. It looks like they included both improvements in the new ones.

The adjuster at the straddle cable end could be used to adjust for brake shoe wear, with a very slight change in mechanical advantage.
I suppose that's reasonable, but I'd just prefer to have the cable attach the way it does on the 982/983 with two less parts that could go missing. That wouldn't stop me from buying the new design however.
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Old 09-24-12, 11:37 AM
  #28  
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Have still been using the same Mafac cantilevers I got in the mid 70's.
have a couple Scott SE compact type , on my camper tour bike ..

I found a braze on boss that had a ring flange all the way around
where the spring anchor in other brakes might go, but I instead have star washers

that grip the core helix' back face.. the return spring on SE is a coil in each brake.
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Old 09-30-12, 12:36 PM
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C&Vers, I'm cross-posting in the MTB subforum concerning this issue:
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?

(some pics here) http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
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Old 09-30-12, 02:16 PM
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They're all good. Really.
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Old 09-30-12, 02:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
They're all good. Really.
I'm not super impressed with "low profile" cantis.. maybe I just have them set up wrong but they don't seem to brake very well


and black plastic covered canti from 90s mtbs are definitely not good
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Old 09-30-12, 06:13 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
They're all good. Really.
No they're not.
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Old 09-30-12, 07:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
C&Vers, I'm cross-posting in the MTB subforum concerning this issue:
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?

(some pics here) http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
I know the theory of the self energizing system myself but explaining it I'm not sure but I'll try. So they pivot in and out on the canti bosses against the rim like all other cantis but these do it on a cam so as they pivot in and out toward the rim there also moving in a forward or backward motion on the cam that depends on which way the wheel is spinning.
So if your looking for a front brake arm it will go backwards on the cam towards the rider and against the direction of the spinning wheel. In theory the brake is self tightening against the rim depending on how much pressure is applied to the brake lever.
If the the pivot cam is working properly and not jammed you should be able to see which way they work in your hand or slide it on a canti boss and move it in and out towards the rim to see what way the cam works.
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Old 09-30-12, 07:14 PM
  #34  
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I have some late 80's higher up in the exage line ones, love'em.
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Old 09-30-12, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Creme Brulee View Post
these are basic but i swear they feel the best..
http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...117&AbsPos=225
I like those too! They're on my 88 Cannondale. I added some Koolstop Salmons, and they stop like V brakes.,,,,BD
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Old 09-30-12, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
No they're not.

Most are. The ones that rate an epic fail though? The Shimano ones that used PLASTIC collars to hold the spring tension. THe plastic cracks, and the brake pad rides against the rim just enough to annoy the crap out of you.,,,,BD

The tires are Sweetskinz....
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Old 09-30-12, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
I like those too! They're on my 88 Cannondale. I added some Koolstop Salmons, and they stop like V brakes.,,,,BD
yep, have them on my 1989 apex and they stop just as good a vbrakes with the stock pads I was really surprised actually
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Old 09-30-12, 09:46 PM
  #38  
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I have Dia-Compe 983s on my Schwinn Voyageur, but they don't have that eccentric pivot-mounting system. Did that come on the 982s or the 983 also? Can I just buy those pivots and slap them on?
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Old 09-30-12, 09:51 PM
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OK, not all are good, but most are, as bikedued says. I agree that those plastic sleeves were a stoopid mistake.
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Old 09-30-12, 09:58 PM
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Only a very few 983 brakes have the eccentric bushing, but it's the same bushing system as the 982 NGC. No regular retail source I'm aware of, just randomly eBay and sometimes the crucial bushings turn up in piles of cast-off parts.
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Old 09-30-12, 11:38 PM
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I like the DC 983's, and the Pedersen brakes are nice, but I still prefer the mid-80's Shimano Deore, xt, and AT50's for performance/no fuss/low maintenance/easy set-up. Basic canti's, no plastic, work well.
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Old 10-01-12, 12:40 AM
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thanks for the guidance re: the SE brakes, jbchybridrider.
I'll have to try them out on a spare canti boss and see if I can tell what way they "tighten".
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Old 10-01-12, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Drakonchik View Post
Only a very few 983 brakes have the eccentric bushing, but it's the same bushing system as the 982 NGC. No regular retail source I'm aware of, just randomly eBay and sometimes the crucial bushings turn up in piles of cast-off parts.
You just need to buy an '88 MB2 for the brakes.
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Old 10-01-12, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
thanks for the guidance re: the SE brakes, jbchybridrider.
I'll have to try them out on a spare canti boss and see if I can tell what way they "tighten".
I read somewhere that Suntour didn't make a Self-Energizing front brake because of the danger of lockup. Scott did, but Suntour didn't. My set has a standard canti for the front.
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Old 10-02-12, 11:49 PM
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I have learned through trial and error how to tell visually if the original Scott Pedersen SE brakes are for front or rear use:

If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.

Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(

EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
Attached Images

Last edited by unworthy1; 10-03-12 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 10-03-12, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
I have learned through trial and error how to tell visually if the original Scott Pedersen SE brakes are for front or rear use:

If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.

Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(

EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
Doh! yes you are right. I was sure I was right based on what I remember fitting them but the theory is right only in reverse. Looking in the day light today they move in a forward direction with the wheel on the cam "if I can call it a cam".
I bought mine as NOS in there original packaging marked front and rear so that is definitely right. My Suntours also look visually the same so the packaging and my original theory in reverse is the only way I can tell.
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Old 10-03-12, 04:39 AM
  #47  
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Sorry for the very very late reply BG, the tires are SweetSkinz Rattlebacks (on my Diamondback). The whole tire is reflective at night when light hits it. So far I like them, they have worked well both on the street and light trails I have been on and people really notice them where ever I go.

Glenn
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Old 04-27-17, 05:26 PM
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This is an older thread, but is proving to be a useful one for something I'm frankensteining.
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Old 04-27-17, 06:21 PM
  #49  
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Shimano BR M-732 cantis have lots of vertical adjustment, as well as a centering adjustment spring. Circa 1989-early '90's. Here's the velobase link.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano BR-M732, Deore XT

Bought a dirty pair from a bike co-op, cleaned & polished with new pads, cables/housings and they look like new. On my '95 Trek 820 "Apocalypse" bike (you know....just in case).
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Old 04-27-17, 08:07 PM
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MAFAC

Yes, they were still going. That's what I had then, therefore they are the best. They all seemed to stop the bike. Any canti was fine with me, but hated the U brakes.
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