Dish Soap/Water to Clean a Crankset
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Dish Soap/Water to Clean a Crankset
My fall commuting begins August 28. In June, I assembled a new trike for the upcoming commute season. My older trike is a single speed, and the newer is a seven speed - 1 x 7; 38t chainwheel and 28t - 14t cassette. Last spring I upgraded my older trike with a 60t crankset, but going to use it on my seven speed trike. Some say not to use a single speed crankset with a seven speed cassette, and others say no problem. A seven speed chain fits the teeth, so I'll try it. The highest gear will increase gear inches from 71 to 111.
I've already pulled the crankset off my old trike, and replaced it with a 42t crankset. I sized a chain for it, installed and tension'. However, the 60t crankset has about 883 miles, and will benefit from a cleaning. My bike tooth brushes, after scrubbing grime with degreaser, I clean with water and dish soap. I wonder if it'd be alright to soak the 60t alloy-aluminum crankset in dish soap/water before I scrub it. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I've already pulled the crankset off my old trike, and replaced it with a 42t crankset. I sized a chain for it, installed and tension'. However, the 60t crankset has about 883 miles, and will benefit from a cleaning. My bike tooth brushes, after scrubbing grime with degreaser, I clean with water and dish soap. I wonder if it'd be alright to soak the 60t alloy-aluminum crankset in dish soap/water before I scrub it. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
2-Wheeled Fool
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,346
Bikes: Surly Ogre, Brompton
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1385 Post(s)
Liked 677 Times
in
457 Posts
I would think that soaking in dish detergent and water wont hurt it much, but honestly, why? Typically, I go about cleaning cranks and derailleurs by leading off with a deluge of WD40, then a toothbrush-scrubbing, then a blast of air to free it all up and clean it all out. Usually that does it, and its lubricated and corrosion-treated all at the same time. I've been doing this for decades, and never had a problem.
Likes For J.Higgins:
#3
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times
in
2,049 Posts
If you're not using solvents laundry soap would probably work better than dish soap
Likes For dedhed:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 927
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Liked 102 Times
in
46 Posts
Actually, Dawn dish soap does a good job if cutting grease. I use it to clean some parts (cranksets and other one-piece items that get greasy), but on derailleurs, cassettes, etc., I use a solvent. Just rinse and dry the parts thoroughly, then apply a light coat of oil.
__________________
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Likes For ddeand:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 4,870
Bikes: A few too many
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1363 Post(s)
Liked 2,177 Times
in
1,182 Posts
^^^^^
__________________
"EVERY PERSON IS GUILTY OF ALL THE GOOD THEY DID NOT DO"
Voltaire
Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors
"EVERY PERSON IS GUILTY OF ALL THE GOOD THEY DID NOT DO"
Voltaire
Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors
Likes For xiaoman1:
#6
Senior Member
This was the method recommended to be at UBI bike school for cleaning chains.Dawn and water and chain in 2 liter bottle, shake.
Rinse, let dry, lube.
should work on cranks but I agree that there are other products that would work just as well.
Rinse, let dry, lube.
should work on cranks but I agree that there are other products that would work just as well.
Likes For DOS:
#7
Quidam Bike Super Hero
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Stone Mountain, GA (Metro Atlanta, East)
Posts: 1,135
Bikes: 1995 Trek 800 Sport, aka, "CamelTrek"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
282 Posts
My wife is strongly recommending baking soda and vinegar....
Likes For Digger Goreman:
Likes For 02Giant:
#9
Junior Member
Just to throw another option in the mix...I have found that most of the "multi-surface" spray bottle kitchen cleaners work quite well on the cassette.
I usually don't spray the cassette while on the bike, or the on wheel for that matter. I completely remove and disassemble the cassette for "spring cleaning".
OMS is still better if you don't mind a solvent based product.
I usually don't spray the cassette while on the bike, or the on wheel for that matter. I completely remove and disassemble the cassette for "spring cleaning".
OMS is still better if you don't mind a solvent based product.
Last edited by AndrewJB; 08-04-19 at 07:43 PM.
Likes For AndrewJB:
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I would think that soaking in dish detergent and water wont hurt it much, but honestly, why? Typically, I go about cleaning cranks and derailleurs by leading off with a deluge of WD40, then a toothbrush-scrubbing, then a blast of air to free it all up and clean it all out. Usually that does it, and its lubricated and corrosion-treated all at the same time. I've been doing this for decades, and never had a problem.
I’ve used WD-40 Bike Degreaser for gears and drivetrains (sprays on as a white foam, then liquefy in a couple minutes running off grease and grime). Works good, but even after scrubbing, black stains on the metal remain. Although they are hidden by the chain, it bothers me.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks… what is OMS?
Just to throw another option in the mix...I have found that most of the "multi-surface" spray bottle kitchen cleaners work quite well on the cassette.
I don't spray the cassette while on the bike, or the on wheel for that matter. I completely remove and disassemble the cassette for "spring cleaning".
OMS is still better if you don't mind a solvent based product.
I don't spray the cassette while on the bike, or the on wheel for that matter. I completely remove and disassemble the cassette for "spring cleaning".
OMS is still better if you don't mind a solvent based product.
Last edited by beach_cycle; 08-04-19 at 06:58 PM. Reason: forgot a quote
#12
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times
in
2,049 Posts
Odorless mineral spirits (not truly odorless), paint thinner. Not to be confused with laquer thinner.
BBQ lighter fluid is very similar if you have that.
BBQ lighter fluid is very similar if you have that.
#13
Senior Member
When I go to the trouble of taking it off, I clean it in the sink with dish soap and a lot of hot water. I wear gloves. I scrub out the sink with baking soda afterwards. The problem with solvents is breathing them, getting them on the skin. I use them outside when I clean stuff still on the bicycle. FBinNY says that if you clean a chain with water you have to dry it out in a low oven afterwards.
#14
2-Wheeled Fool
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,346
Bikes: Surly Ogre, Brompton
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1385 Post(s)
Liked 677 Times
in
457 Posts
I know that I'll get some flak for this, but after trying every method of cleaning a chain, there is nothing better or faster-working than a jar of gasoline/petrol. Use gloves and common sense in a well ventilated area. Rinse in a jar of denatured alcohol, and wipe off with a rag. Repeat as necessary until the rag does not become blackened.
I've resorted to this method because of all the fuss and bother I've encountered cleaning chains in the past. I even have an industrial ultrasonic cleaner, and that is not as quick as the jar o' petrol ploy. Oh indeed the ultrasonic will work a treat, but takes quite a while, 30-40 minutes, to get the chain as clean as a five-minute swish in the petrol.
I once gave some thought to building a rotating drum with paddles inside of it. The chains could tumble inside as it rotates, and come clean in whatever solution I used - especially if I included some sort of tumbling media. It would make a fine experiment for a cold winter's day I suppose.
#15
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
Please don't use gasoline
I agree that gasoline is an effective solvent for bike grud (greasy crud), but in my experience mineral spirits are as effective or nearly so, and are MUCH less toxic/carcinogenic/teratogenic etc. Gasoline is not something you want to use gratuitously - there's just too many ingredients that aren't good for you.
For cleaning, I use nitrile gloves, OMS, and an old toothbrush. After the part was clean, you can sling the solvent caught in the cracks (away from structures, people, pets, or gardens!) pretty effectively, or blow the stuff out with compressed air (carefully, pointing away from you and aforementioned structures, people, pets, or gardens). The remainder dries off fairly effectively. In fact, even if it doesn't, it will mix with any oil you apply and will still evaporate.
If their remained something (e.g. black stains) I'd try brake cleaner or acetone using a brass brush. Outdoors, when there's enough of a breeze to move the fumes away from me.
The days of painters cleaning up after work by washing their hands in gasoline should be over and relegated to the past.
I'm a chemical engineer. I like chemicals. I have no irrational fear of chemistry or chemicals. But one should have respect for them.
For cleaning, I use nitrile gloves, OMS, and an old toothbrush. After the part was clean, you can sling the solvent caught in the cracks (away from structures, people, pets, or gardens!) pretty effectively, or blow the stuff out with compressed air (carefully, pointing away from you and aforementioned structures, people, pets, or gardens). The remainder dries off fairly effectively. In fact, even if it doesn't, it will mix with any oil you apply and will still evaporate.
If their remained something (e.g. black stains) I'd try brake cleaner or acetone using a brass brush. Outdoors, when there's enough of a breeze to move the fumes away from me.
The days of painters cleaning up after work by washing their hands in gasoline should be over and relegated to the past.
I'm a chemical engineer. I like chemicals. I have no irrational fear of chemistry or chemicals. But one should have respect for them.
#16
Some Weirdo
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Rexburg, ID
Posts: 502
Bikes: '86 Schwinn Prelude, '91 Scott Sawtooth, '73 Raleigh "Grand 3"
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 223 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times
in
92 Posts
Don't use gasoline, dish soap works fine (but slowly).Better to scrub first with OMS and lightly clean after with dish soap to get any stray streaks. Reinstall.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,832
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 603 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times
in
534 Posts
I’ve done all mine by soaking in WD40, then soft brush, followed by simple green.
Tim
Tim