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KHS John Howard Triathlete Pro

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KHS John Howard Triathlete Pro

Old 11-30-10, 01:39 AM
  #1  
swick
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KHS John Howard Triathlete Pro

i acquired this road bike today to help limit the use of my truck. i got it with the intention to rebuild/restore and learn from. im also new to the bike world and im looking for insight and help to rebuild/restore this bike. this bike needs some much needed TLC. for example, the STI Shimano gear/break levers do not work, needs new chain, and front and rear derailleurs need to be adjusted. these are the major issues that i have found with the bike.

i can take care of every thing but the levers. so how do i go about servicing the STI levers?

bike specs.
Tange #1, Shimano 600 SIS, Araya SS-45 rims with Continental 700 x 23C tires, nitto stems.









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Old 11-30-10, 02:10 AM
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I've never taken apart a set of Shimano Brake/Shift levers, from what I've heard you mostly need to replace them when they crap out. However, I have found that sometimes, with older ones that you get on older bikes, that they are not worn out but just sort of gummed up with old grease. I've had some luck with blasting all the moving parts inside with PB Blaster.
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Old 11-30-10, 03:18 AM
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Welcome to the forums. I'm guessing this model must have been made to compete with the Dave Scott Ironman. Nice bike, though I have a few other "major issues" :

1. Position of those bars/brifters. Please tilt those down a bit.
2. Why isn't that chain sitting on the cogs? Looks like you are trying to cross-chain? (Avoid using big front chainring with largest rear cog, or small front chainring with small rear cog.) And some of those cogs are starting to chip. Perhaps time for a new chain.
3. You are bound to scratch your frame leaning it against rough metal poles like that.

From previous posts, I understand Shimano brifters are not usually repairable (unlike Campagnolo). I've heard people tell tales of brifter resurrection after a spray with WD-40 while moving the lever. Replacement brifters can be pricey. If you aren't trying to keep it original, a less expensive option might be Sora brifters.
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Old 11-30-10, 08:56 AM
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What do you mean by they don't work? If you mean you can't move the levers or it's difficult, then the first step, as previously suggested ,is PB Blaster, WD40 or similar. Second step is to remove the cables and housings to see if that makes a difference, Sometimes the cables are seated improperly or there is corrosion in the cable housings preventing movement.

If it's shifting but just not properly (I notice the chain is riding on a cog), then there could be numerous problems from a simple adjustment to worn components, incompatible components, bent derailleur hanger etc. For instance, I notice the freewheel is 6 speed. I'm pretty sure STI was only available for 7 speed and up. That would be an incompatibility problem right there.
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Old 11-30-10, 09:23 AM
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Nice Bike. The builder of that frame would love to hear from you. He's a cool guy, he's starting a "registry" of all the bikes he built. His Name is
Dave Moulton, he is retired , but he may be able to help with some q's..Here's his site:

It's funny, he answered a question about all the 80's colors people made him custom paint the bikes. You will enjoy that page.

http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/
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Old 11-30-10, 10:44 AM
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T-Mar and others beat me to it, but I'll chip in what little I know. Definitely very similar to a Centurion Dave Scott Ironman model, also Tange 1, came with 105 or 600. Lugs appear nearly identical, fork similar to the Tange of the era. Brake bridge is different. It's rare and cool.

Front and rear wheels don't appear to match, and I'm not familiar with the Araya model. Front looks a lot like the later CTL Super Hards. Rear looks different, or has had a ton of braking on that anodized surface.

The rear is a 6-sp freewheel, and not designed for the shifters.

Shifters look to be RSX, and 2x7 or 3x7 at the earliest. 3x7 would explain the triple crankset and long cage RD.

The DT cable stops are add-ons, and I think were Dura Ace in that configuration (R side lever adjustment).

Crankset is not an RSX, or at least not the same as my RSX triple crankset was.

I can't tell what the FD and RD are. The RD may well be the RSX triple.

The calipers are the early 105, the 1055, which was earlier than the RSX 3x7.

Headset is a Shimano 600EX, which predates the RSX and the 1055 105. I think those are Nitto bars and stem.

My first impression is that someone got the bike down to frame/fork/headset, and built from there. I doubt an '86 era "sport bike" would be a triple. I'm guessing from the headset that it came with 2x6 friction 600EX and either the front wheel is OEM, or the rear is. The bar/stem could easily be OEM, as Nitto had a black stem in 1986.

It has a lot of potential. Dave Moulton's paint was pretty good, so a thorough cleaning after you strip the bike down would yield a pretty clean result, and then a hard rub-down with a shop rag and WD-40 will wipe off a lot of defects.

The rehab won't be that difficult. You can build it from 6-sp to 10-sp, depending on your tastes and budget.
A good cheapskate rebuild would go something like this, assuming you take it apart and clean each component:

Keep the bars and stem, reposition the shifters to fit. You can lower them, ride the hoods just as easy.
Clean and repack that headset.
Keep the seatpost and saddle, eventually find the saddle you like or keep that one.
New cables, new housing. I'd get the Chinese Jagwire kit, and 2 decent shift cables. $20 or less, shipped.
Clean and rehab the shifters. Keep the downtube cable stops.
Pull the chain and throw it away. Go to Walmart, the Bell 7/8 chain is 9.96
Pull the crankset, take it apart, and clean it, including the rings.
Check the bottom bracket for smoothness. Clean and repack it w/new grease. Reassemble bb/cranks.
Pull the front derailleur and clean it, re-install it with the chain off and adjust it by sight in/out.
Pull the rear derailleur and clean it, re-install it with the chain off and adjust it by sight in/out.
Pull the front wheel, have it trued and tensioned, repack the hub. Cheaper than buying a wheel.
Pull the rear wheel, have it trued and tensioned, repack the hub. Replace the 6-sp freewheel with a 7-sp.
Get new tubes, $15 locally. Get new tires, $30 locally for cheapos.
On line pricing is better, but you need LBS to help, in most cases, and you can generally learn something there.

Cleaning and lubrication will make a huge difference in how the bike shifts, brakes, and does what it is supposed to.
Truing and tensioning the wheels will make a huge difference in handling and ride.
Tires make a big difference, so ask Santa for some good ones above the bottom of the lineup.

Find one of us, and that can all be done in a garage in a few hours. Do it yourself, including research, and it will take a lot longer, but you'll learn enough to realize it's time well spent, and enjoy the end result that much more.

Specialty tools needed: headset wrench, bottom bracket cup tool, crankset puller, chain tool, spoke wrench, spoke tensiometer, freewheel removal tool, cone wrenches. You could use a star nut wrench on the headset, but can do without it with a little care.

Get some help from an experienced bike tinkerer, and try to do this over a big piece of carpet. That way, when you drop things, and you will, they won't roll away to bike part oblivion.
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Old 11-30-10, 11:49 AM
  #7  
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That is a nice little bike...but it is NOT a Dave Moulton built John Howard frame. I owned a very early version of the John Howard KHS, that wasn't built by Dave either. That frame was built with Columbus tubing, Campagnolo drop-outs and Cinelli frame components. Dave's were also built with Columbus and Campagnolo d-o's, but there were obvious construction and finish differences that were much finer than the bike shown here.

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Old 11-30-10, 12:11 PM
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As stated earlier blast the RSX shifters with WD40 or clean streak. If that doesn't work, soak it in a solvent and agitate it for a while. If that doesn't work take off the face place of the RSX shifters and make sure the spring is seated properly. Contrary to popular belief, your shifter won't explode if you unscrew something. The facplate only has some washers and a spring under it. Make sure the spring is seated in the 2 holes and try to place the washers and screw back on while keeping it in the same spot.
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Old 12-02-10, 12:23 AM
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This is awesome. Thank you for all the help. especially robbie tunes that list is awesome.

the shifters. the left/front shifter: it swings in but does not make a click. thus the chain is on the large front cog. the right/rear shifter: swings in just fine and click but does not retract or tract the cable. thus the chain is on the large rear cog. that is why the chain is the way it is. i pulled the shifters and was able to remove all the cable but one. the cable that is still on the shifter is the one that controls the rear derailleur. I also blasted them with PB and right now i have them soaking in Simple Green.

i also have everything else in the simple green bath. the front rings, derailleurs, shifters, and cables. right now im working on removing the crank set and the rear hub. i will most likley head to the LBS to get those removed.

after i get every thing cleaned i will most likley run the bike as a single speed until i get the problem with the shifters figured out.

the rear free wheel has a seven cog set up, and the bars are nitto. the rims also match. its just that the last owner loved using the rear break.




left/front


right/rear




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Old 12-02-10, 12:23 AM
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Old 12-02-10, 10:10 PM
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shifters are alive.


SIMPLE GREEN FTMFW.
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Old 12-03-10, 06:45 AM
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Good job.

I see now why they went Deore, to get a smooth-shifting triple.
If you get it working right, as is, I'd probably ride it and not make changes.

It appears to me to be no different than an Ironman or a Panasonic of that era and level.
Which means it's a good bike, even if not Moulton-made.
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Old 12-03-10, 09:20 PM
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well i have the shifters working flawless.

i went ahead and built the bike back up to single speed and took it for a spin. to get a feel for the bike seeing that this is my first road bike. it ran supper smooth for the wheels being a little out of true, and none of the bearings repacked. im supper happy with it.

i will be breaking the bike back down to to finish the rebuild. im going to open up the bb and neck to inspect and repack the bearings. i will have the lbs true the wheels and repack the hubs. then its on to rebuilding it back up.

items that need replaced:
bar tape
cables and liners
tubes
chain
tires (im looking to get larger tires)
and??


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Old 12-03-10, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Good job.

I see now why they went Deore, to get a smooth-shifting triple.
If you get it working right, as is, I'd probably ride it and not make changes.

It appears to me to be no different than an Ironman or a Panasonic of that era and level.
Which means it's a good bike, even if not Moulton-made.
this is really good to hear. i guess i ended on top in the deal. i cant wait to get in out in the open road.
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Old 12-05-10, 08:39 PM
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i finished the rebuild today. its nothing special i got the sti shifters working good, cleaned all the parts, and lubed up the cables. i was going to service the neck and bb but got to thinking. it rains a lot this time of year. so i figured the bb and neck will be all right till the spring. at the end of the week i will have the lbs service my wheels.

today i took the bike for a little spin. i put about 15 miles on it. it rode nice and smooth besides wheels being a little out of whack. i pretty much rode to every bike shop in town to see what size tire would fit. all of them said i could fit a 28 with no problem. they also said i could fit a 30 but i would be cutting it close.
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Old 12-05-10, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by you View Post
I've never taken apart a set of Shimano Brake/Shift levers, from what I've heard you mostly need to replace them when they crap out. However, I have found that sometimes, with older ones that you get on older bikes, that they are not worn out but just sort of gummed up with old grease. I've had some luck with blasting all the moving parts inside with PB Blaster.
They can be easily disassembled just like any other. You simply have to watch the order of washers and such...taking pics as you take them apart helps.

Tear down, clean, polish (these will be anodized so they can be simply cleaned well), relube as you reassemble. Easy.
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Old 12-05-10, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by khatfull View Post
They can be easily disassembled just like any other. You simply have to watch the order of washers and such...taking pics as you take them apart helps.

Tear down, clean, polish (these will be anodized so they can be simply cleaned well), relube as you reassemble. Easy.
i have read that it can be done but you would have to use some special tools.
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Old 12-08-10, 01:03 AM
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from tonight's ride. since i got it to riding condition i have put close to 30 miles on it.

right now im in the troubleshooting phase. when i hit 50 miles i will report back with problems.


thank you all for looking and helping.
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Old 12-08-10, 08:41 AM
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This is your first bike rehab? Quite an undertaking and nice job.

These bikes were really popular for about 2 years around 1985/6... before STI, and then they disappeared. In the 80's I had a girlfriend with hair that color.

Enjoy this scan of an old ad...
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Old 12-08-10, 09:39 PM
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that man is amazing. im kind of happy that i have one of his inspired bikes.

this would be my second bike rehab. if you consider this.

its a walmart special that i got for free from a friend. everything on it was seized besides the crank and neck. do i got rid of all the junk scrounged up parts for a front break and converted teh free wheel to a single speed. for the ratio i was running a 48/18 on 26" wheels. its a fun little bike on the local non improved dirt trails.


one thing is for sure the KHS needs new tires. what style of tire tread would be best for wet and leaves? im mainly worried about the leaves. so far they are to blame for the few close calls i have had.
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Old 12-10-10, 03:46 PM
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Old 12-10-10, 04:26 PM
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Good job getting the brifters working again. Those night photos compliment the neon colors. Brings back memories of Crocket & Tubbs.

If you plan to ride the bike much over the winter, I'd suggest you reconsider waiting to overhaul the Bottom Bracket. I recently overhauled a BB which hadn't been overhauled since the late-80s. I was shocked by the consistency of the grease. It became a thick hardened gunk that was a real pain to off the cups, and there was some slight pitting to the BB axle. I'd hate to see that happen to your BB. You know what they say about a stitch in time...
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Old 12-10-10, 07:45 PM
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^^^ thank you for the compliments and getting me to reconsidering on doing a rebuild of the the bb.

the night time is the only time i can ride. i like it a lot because its just you, your bike and the cold.
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Old 12-11-10, 08:02 PM
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new stuff:
tire for front 700c-28. will get second for the rear in two weeks.


bar tape: i really like the red.

new to me saddle: bontrager
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Old 12-11-10, 09:30 PM
  #25  
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Nice work Swick. It would be a real find to score a Moulton John Howard. Here's a pic of my non-Moulton John Howard Professional.

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