Tubeless or not?
#101
Full Member
Another problem with tubeless - sometimes the step is too high and the tubeless tires will not seal against it tightly enough to allow enough pressure to force it up. Rather than a tire pump pressure chamber such as is shown in many of the videos I use a CO2 cartridge which normally works of you push the tire bead out as tightly against the step as much as possible on both sides. But if the step is really too high it will pull off of the step and fall back into the spoke well when you release the pressure to install the sealant through the filler valve.
Here is an article that really describes the problems pretty well https://road.cc/content/tech-news/25...hy-matters-you
Here is an article that really describes the problems pretty well https://road.cc/content/tech-news/25...hy-matters-you
Likes For RiceAWay:
#102
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,690
Bikes: Giant Propel, Cannondale SuperX, Univega Alpina Ultima
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 672 Post(s)
Liked 417 Times
in
249 Posts
I'm 5000 miles or so (put them on after the road season ended last fall) into my first experiment with road tubeless. My Q&D observations:
1) They aren't a panacea. Many things that give you flats with tubes also flat your tubeless. Sidewall tears, potholes with jagged edges, etc, will cause you to flat.
2) I haven't found the hassle of a roadside repair THAT big a deal. There is some mess from sealant. Don't change tires in your living room. YMMV
3) They have gotten me home on with small punctures or tears that would have put me on the side of the road with tubes.
4) If you race (I do), there is a growing consensus that tubeless is faster than either latex tubes or tubular. If you race and are always on the hunt for marginal gains, this is a big deal.
5) Wheel and tire manufacturers are making huge strides in reliability and fit. Road tubeless today is better than road tubeless a couple of years ago.
Crux of the matter is that for me, I'm running tubeless on both training and racing wheelset, and plan to at least through the rest of this year. I fully expect to continue to use tubeless in the future.
1) They aren't a panacea. Many things that give you flats with tubes also flat your tubeless. Sidewall tears, potholes with jagged edges, etc, will cause you to flat.
2) I haven't found the hassle of a roadside repair THAT big a deal. There is some mess from sealant. Don't change tires in your living room. YMMV
3) They have gotten me home on with small punctures or tears that would have put me on the side of the road with tubes.
4) If you race (I do), there is a growing consensus that tubeless is faster than either latex tubes or tubular. If you race and are always on the hunt for marginal gains, this is a big deal.
5) Wheel and tire manufacturers are making huge strides in reliability and fit. Road tubeless today is better than road tubeless a couple of years ago.
Crux of the matter is that for me, I'm running tubeless on both training and racing wheelset, and plan to at least through the rest of this year. I fully expect to continue to use tubeless in the future.
__________________
Formerly fastest rider in the grupetto, currently slowest guy in the peloton
Formerly fastest rider in the grupetto, currently slowest guy in the peloton
Last edited by bbbean; 04-21-20 at 11:17 AM.
Likes For bbbean:
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Since this is turning in to a repository or tubeless successes and failures, tips and tricks...
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
Likes For WhyFi:
#104
Pizzaiolo Americano
Since this is turning in to a repository or tubeless successes and failures, tips and tricks...
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
Likes For Pizzaiolo Americano:
#105
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
That set up works awesome until something inevitably gets stuck in the thin hose. Then, the attachment blasts off and sends sealant all over your shop. Ask me how I know . I now use the syringe without any of the hose threaded on to inject sealant. The end of it is perfect to cover a presta valve and there is no risk of it exploding sealant everywhere. I only use the hose to remove sealant before I break down a wheel.
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,922
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4717 Post(s)
Liked 1,882 Times
in
998 Posts
My first set of tubeless tires were 25mm and I ran them at ~100psi. They took a couple of nasty punctures (one was a double puncture from a big construction staple that I had to pry out with a key) but sealed permanently and had no issues being run at the same pressure afterward. My sample size at that pressure is just that one set of tires, though - I moved to 28/30mm after that. I don't know if tire construction difference would affect sealing ability at that pressure, but these were pretty racy tires (Gavia SLRs, ~250g and $100/ea at the time) so I wouldn't imagine that it could get much worse. The sealant was, as always for me, Orange Seal.
Since then, the highest pressure that I've regularly run at is 80psi, but no problems with that, either, though.
Since then, the highest pressure that I've regularly run at is 80psi, but no problems with that, either, though.
#107
Pointy Helmet Tribe
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Offthebackistan
Posts: 4,338
Bikes: R5, Allez Sprint, Shiv
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 627 Times
in
295 Posts
I have the 26mms, which measure 27.x on a 21mm ID Roval rim. Running the at 80psi (i know, i know... i should make it less - old roadie habits die hard).
#108
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,922
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4717 Post(s)
Liked 1,882 Times
in
998 Posts
Specialized Rapid Airs. I've not had great luck with the older Pro Ones (maybe the new ones have less fragile sidewalls), but the ride quality of the Rapid Airs is divine. Smooth AF, and fast AF. They are the reason i am looking at tubeless one more time.
I have the 26mms, which measure 27.x on a 21mm ID Roval rim. Running the at 80psi (i know, i know... i should make it less - old roadie habits die hard).
I have the 26mms, which measure 27.x on a 21mm ID Roval rim. Running the at 80psi (i know, i know... i should make it less - old roadie habits die hard).
Likes For noodle soup:
Likes For guadzilla:
#110
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Likes For WhyFi:
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
#115
Newbie
When I bought my Madone 5+ years ago, I opted for Shimano tubeless rims with Bontrager tubeless tires (I think Hutchinson actually manufactured them). I didn't have much trouble mounting the tires. But I could never get the tires to seat. I tried most of the tricks mentioned above with no success. I don't own a compressor, so I bought a special pump that's supposed to deliver a large rush of air to seat the bead. That that didn't help. Switched to Hutchinson-branded tires - same result. I would have to go to my LBS and have them mount the tubes with their compressor. Even then, they would have to use a port closest to the compressor itself or the beads wouldn't seat, I guess due to the pressure drop in the satellite ports. Based on the above, are the Shimano wheels the culprit? Sounds like most people with Mavic rims don't seem to have the issues I had. I still ride the wheels, but I run them with tubes. Wouldn't mind going back to tubeless if I could mount the damn tires. Thoughts/suggestions?
#116
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
When I bought my Madone 5+ years ago, I opted for Shimano tubeless rims with Bontrager tubeless tires (I think Hutchinson actually manufactured them). I didn't have much trouble mounting the tires. But I could never get the tires to seat. I tried most of the tricks mentioned above with no success. I don't own a compressor, so I bought a special pump that's supposed to deliver a large rush of air to seat the bead. That that didn't help. Switched to Hutchinson-branded tires - same result. I would have to go to my LBS and have them mount the tubes with their compressor. Even then, they would have to use a port closest to the compressor itself or the beads wouldn't seat, I guess due to the pressure drop in the satellite ports. Based on the above, are the Shimano wheels the culprit? Sounds like most people with Mavic rims don't seem to have the issues I had. I still ride the wheels, but I run them with tubes. Wouldn't mind going back to tubeless if I could mount the damn tires. Thoughts/suggestions?
FWIW, I've been running Hutchinson tires recently (Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storm) and they've gone on and seated with such ease that I've been a little disappointed - one of those deals where you're looking forward to a fight and you don't get one.
Anyway, a good compressor is probably your best bet, moving forward. If that doesn't appeal to you for whatever reason, and it really doesn't appeal to me, then look at some of the better pumps/flash chargers out there - the one from Bontrager/Trek gets a lot of love, and that's probably what will replace my Specialized when I've finally had enough with it.
#118
Senior Member
The problem with tubeless is no single standard for the tires and rims. ERTO standard and UST are not the same.
As for those hefty wheels you posted, what makes you think the spokes have equal tension? With the rear wheel, the spoke tension can be more equal if the 2:1 lacing, like fulcrum uses, or the Campy's G3 lacing is used.
As for those hefty wheels you posted, what makes you think the spokes have equal tension? With the rear wheel, the spoke tension can be more equal if the 2:1 lacing, like fulcrum uses, or the Campy's G3 lacing is used.
#119
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: atlanta ga
Posts: 245
Bikes: road: 1999 GT road:40Kmi+ // 2001 fuji finest AL:9Kmi+//1991 schwinn paramount ODG:0.1Kmi+
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
7 Posts
no way tubulars!
for what?
to go .2 mph faster?
why>?
so you can get home 25 seconds sooner?
what are you going to do with the extra time?
you will certainly waste 100 times as much, ******** with the tubular cr*p!
wle
for what?
to go .2 mph faster?
why>?
so you can get home 25 seconds sooner?
what are you going to do with the extra time?
you will certainly waste 100 times as much, ******** with the tubular cr*p!
wle
#120
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Since this is turning in to a repository or tubeless successes and failures, tips and tricks...
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
I just ordered this from Amazon for 12 bucks -
I was actually just looking for a decent core removal tool, but this popped up for a very reasonable price. I've been wanting to try the syringe/tube setups. I have no problems checking levels and topping off, as is, but I'm hoping that this will also aid in removal of sealant that's gone bad. In theory, I won't have to break the bead to mop it up with paper towels - I should be able to insert the thinner tube through the stem and in to the tire and then suction it out.
Since I'll have to break the bead anyway, I guess I'll go to the LBS and pick up some valves that'll pass the tube and get them installed at the same time.
#121
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Just received this so I thought I'd try it out. The hard plastic insertion tube is about 0.2mm too big to get all the way through my valve stems. Worse, from the little dribble that did come out of the tire, I can tell that it's time to remove and replace the sealant in the front tire.
Since I'll have to break the bead anyway, I guess I'll go to the LBS and pick up some valves that'll pass the tube and get them installed at the same time.
Since I'll have to break the bead anyway, I guess I'll go to the LBS and pick up some valves that'll pass the tube and get them installed at the same time.
Even though the insertion tube doesn't fit all the way in to my current stems, I can already tell that the sealant syringe will be a welcomed addition and $12 well spent. It takes the guesswork out of dosing, it's easy and it's relatively clean. I did have one instance where I hit some resistance when injecting - rather than push harder, I pulled back on the plunger and tried again and I got smooth sailing in return. After filling the tires, I flushed the tubes/syringe a few times with some warm water and took it apart to let it dry. Good stuff.