What makes a bike a "climbing" bike?
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Years ago it had to do with the stiffness of the frame. If the bottom bracket shell is flexing some of the power is being lost. At least that is what was hyped.
That may not apply to modern carbon frames. All things being equal of a rider’s ability to climb, a lighter shorter wheelbase bike would probably outperform a heavier bike with the same rider.
John
That may not apply to modern carbon frames. All things being equal of a rider’s ability to climb, a lighter shorter wheelbase bike would probably outperform a heavier bike with the same rider.
John
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Years ago it had to do with the stiffness of the frame. If the bottom bracket shell is flexing some of the power is being lost. At least that is what was hyped.
That may not apply to modern carbon frames. All things being equal of a rider’s ability to climb, a lighter shorter wheelbase bike would probably outperform a heavier bike with the same rider.
John
That may not apply to modern carbon frames. All things being equal of a rider’s ability to climb, a lighter shorter wheelbase bike would probably outperform a heavier bike with the same rider.
John
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Admittedly I'm biased having ridden an '88 Cannondale Criterium for years that is super stiff and I can't fit my index finger between the tire and the downtube.
John
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This is really my personal preference, and I imagine a lot of tourers will disagree, but I like having a nimble compact bike especially out of the saddle.
Admittedly I'm biased having ridden an '88 Cannondale Criterium for years that is super stiff and I can't fit my index finger between the tire and the downtube.
John
Admittedly I'm biased having ridden an '88 Cannondale Criterium for years that is super stiff and I can't fit my index finger between the tire and the downtube.
John
When people talk about a "climbing bike," they're usually talking about a bike that is designed to get rider and machine uphill quickly, with no other ballast. Tourers may well prefer long wheelbases to keep their ride steady under load up and over long passes, but their primary concern is to get over the mountain in comfort, and speed is a secondary consideration.
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The new TREK SL6 PRO has a drive train of 52/36 chain rings and rear cassette with max 30T gear. That is a 1.2 ratio. They market it as "This upgrade makes it a worthy choice for any ride, from sprints on your local roads to pro stage races to hill climbing competitions." That just seems like not as low a ratio by today's standards for climbing. Maybe 1.2 is well suited for younger, lighter weight riders but is seems underwhelming to me. I'm currently on a bike with a 48/32 chain rings and cassette with 34T for a .94 ratio.
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
Twenty years ago I liked 50-40-30.x 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21 which is 1.4 for the Rocky Mountains. Same low as 42x28 for the mountains west of Boulder, CO plus a 13-19 straight block for plains east.
It's about grade, length, power to weight ratio for the resulting duration plus how many hours you want to be fresh afterwards.
That varies enormously. Most people just use whatever the bike company will sell them.
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Don't forget the nasty headwinds! I go to some hills in the city at roughly the same time everyday and everytime, I always get headwinds. I'm training to increase my power-to-weight ratio but since I ride in a densely populated city, it can be dangerous to ride fast so I deliberately wear loose, flappy clothing. They can "balloon" in strong winds/high speed, working like a mini parachute lol!
It makes riding uphills in strong headwind, double the effort! So I'd say, aerodynamics still matters!
I never ridden outside the city anyway so I have no idea how winds are in the mountains. But in the city, the tall buildings can catch the wind and channel and focus them at the ground level.....Annoying! But makes for a great workout without going dangerously fast (in a crowded city where going fast can be dangerous)
It makes riding uphills in strong headwind, double the effort! So I'd say, aerodynamics still matters!
I never ridden outside the city anyway so I have no idea how winds are in the mountains. But in the city, the tall buildings can catch the wind and channel and focus them at the ground level.....Annoying! But makes for a great workout without going dangerously fast (in a crowded city where going fast can be dangerous)
So absolutely, a headwind can suddenly put the wind resistance term into a high speed value (without the reward of actually moving at high speed). Climbing uphill into a headwind will be made significantly harder by both the work against gravity and the work against wind. For any given hill and rate of climb, there will be a wind speed at which the air drag exceeds the gravitational term. Additionally, as head wind increases, the importance of aerodynamic efficiency of rider and bike (or purposeful inefficiency in your case) will increase and at an increasing rate.
Otto
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Yep, and the unpredictable nature of winds in some cases means you cannot reliablely take advantage of them via tailwind to build momentum as downhill sections can. If speed matters, then aerodynamics is still worth looking even in hills.
There's one case, the headwind is so strong and I'm uphill with my baggy clothes, I nearly dismounted the bike to just walk the way up! An extreme case of poor aerodynamics.
I never had a ride in mountain roads before so I have no idea how bad it is out there but I reckon if the road goes through a significant tree canopy, the trees can dramatically attenuate the winds so there'll be no wind at the road.
There's one case, the headwind is so strong and I'm uphill with my baggy clothes, I nearly dismounted the bike to just walk the way up! An extreme case of poor aerodynamics.
I never had a ride in mountain roads before so I have no idea how bad it is out there but I reckon if the road goes through a significant tree canopy, the trees can dramatically attenuate the winds so there'll be no wind at the road.
Otto
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The new TREK SL6 PRO has a drive train of 52/36 chain rings and rear cassette with max 30T gear. That is a 1.2 ratio. They market it as "This upgrade makes it a worthy choice for any ride, from sprints on your local roads to pro stage races to hill climbing competitions." That just seems like not as low a ratio by today's standards for climbing. Maybe 1.2 is well suited for younger, lighter weight riders but is seems underwhelming to me. I'm currently on a bike with a 48/32 chain rings and cassette with 34T for a .94 ratio.
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
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The new TREK SL6 PRO has a drive train of 52/36 chain rings and rear cassette with max 30T gear. That is a 1.2 ratio. They market it as "This upgrade makes it a worthy choice for any ride, from sprints on your local roads to pro stage races to hill climbing competitions." That just seems like not as low a ratio by today's standards for climbing. Maybe 1.2 is well suited for younger, lighter weight riders but is seems underwhelming to me. I'm currently on a bike with a 48/32 chain rings and cassette with 34T for a .94 ratio.
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
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ZHVelo, Thanks for being focused on the correct context of my question. Is the bike aero enough and light weight enough for the 1.2 final gear to effective on long stead climbs? I don't know. As I mentioned in my OP, that does not seem to be a particularly low gear by today's standards.
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For what its worth. An article from bike radar on "best" climbing bikes.
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...limbing-bikes/
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...limbing-bikes/
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For what its worth. An article from bike radar on "best" climbing bikes.
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...limbing-bikes/
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...limbing-bikes/
Thing is, with most of these bikes, they're trying to build something that will sell in multiple regions. Yes, if you're biking in the Swiss Alps, you will more than likely need a lower gear than 1.2. But you're unlikely to need anything that low on the roads of northern Europe, large swaths of the US, anywhere in Australia, etc. And if you're buying a System 6 with Di2 Dura Ace, you should be able to climb the Matterhorn in 36-30 (and if you aren't strong enough to do that, then at $9,000 for a bike, you're rich enough to swap your cassette, derailleur, chainrings out). If I still lived in Ireland, a 34-34 gear would go unused on anything with slick tires.
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Most of them with an 11-30 as stock, some even with 11-28.
Thing is, with most of these bikes, they're trying to build something that will sell in multiple regions. Yes, if you're biking in the Swiss Alps, you will more than likely need a lower gear than 1.2. But you're unlikely to need anything that low on the roads of northern Europe, large swaths of the US, anywhere in Australia, etc. And if you're buying a System 6 with Di2 Dura Ace, you should be able to climb the Matterhorn in 36-30 (and if you aren't strong enough to do that, then at $9,000 for a bike, you're rich enough to swap your cassette, derailleur, chainrings out). If I still lived in Ireland, a 34-34 gear would go unused on anything with slick tires.
Thing is, with most of these bikes, they're trying to build something that will sell in multiple regions. Yes, if you're biking in the Swiss Alps, you will more than likely need a lower gear than 1.2. But you're unlikely to need anything that low on the roads of northern Europe, large swaths of the US, anywhere in Australia, etc. And if you're buying a System 6 with Di2 Dura Ace, you should be able to climb the Matterhorn in 36-30 (and if you aren't strong enough to do that, then at $9,000 for a bike, you're rich enough to swap your cassette, derailleur, chainrings out). If I still lived in Ireland, a 34-34 gear would go unused on anything with slick tires.
I guess that is why mostly they don't call it climbing bikes, bike brands themselves usually use race, endurance, and aero. Which is why that article on 'climbing' bikes is silly imo.
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Climbing gear ratios? Marco Pantani used 54/44 rings together with a 11-23 cassette - on the tough climbs. Like Ventoux, where he would ascend long 8 percent grades at 20 mph. LMMV.
Climbing bike: as light as possible (<15 pounds), particularly minimizing wheel rotating mass. So carbon frame and low-profile carbon tubular wheels - obviously. 300 gram rims with 200 gram tires. No discs or other useless ballast - obviously.
I've seen the studies that imply that a couple of pounds on the bike will make little difference. These miss the fact that every pedal stroke incurs an acceleration, and the power for these thousands of accelerations per climb come from you.
Climbing bike: as light as possible (<15 pounds), particularly minimizing wheel rotating mass. So carbon frame and low-profile carbon tubular wheels - obviously. 300 gram rims with 200 gram tires. No discs or other useless ballast - obviously.
I've seen the studies that imply that a couple of pounds on the bike will make little difference. These miss the fact that every pedal stroke incurs an acceleration, and the power for these thousands of accelerations per climb come from you.
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Increasing mass does increase gravitational drag, but there's no micro-acceleration secret sauce.
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Otto
Last edited by ofajen; 07-22-20 at 03:23 PM.
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Climbing gear ratios? Marco Pantani used 54/44 rings together with a 11-23 cassette - on the tough climbs. Like Ventoux, where he would ascend long 8 percent grades at 20 mph. LMMV.
Climbing bike: as light as possible (<15 pounds), particularly minimizing wheel rotating mass. So carbon frame and low-profile carbon tubular wheels - obviously. 300 gram rims with 200 gram tires. No discs or other useless ballast - obviously.
I've seen the studies that imply that a couple of pounds on the bike will make little difference. These miss the fact that every pedal stroke incurs an acceleration, and the power for these thousands of accelerations per climb come from you.
Climbing bike: as light as possible (<15 pounds), particularly minimizing wheel rotating mass. So carbon frame and low-profile carbon tubular wheels - obviously. 300 gram rims with 200 gram tires. No discs or other useless ballast - obviously.
I've seen the studies that imply that a couple of pounds on the bike will make little difference. These miss the fact that every pedal stroke incurs an acceleration, and the power for these thousands of accelerations per climb come from you.
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