Are these wheels toast ?
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How can you not agree? The OP says it's a 280. I've provided photos of 280s. There is no wear indicator. Other members have posted that there were no indicators on these rims. Why are you so stubborn?
ETA: The production of these stopped sometime in the late 80's. They were replaced w/ the Open series. In the 90's these rims were welded together and machined (SUP). It was another 10 years or so before they ever had a groove machined as a wear indicator.
ETA: The production of these stopped sometime in the late 80's. They were replaced w/ the Open series. In the 90's these rims were welded together and machined (SUP). It was another 10 years or so before they ever had a groove machined as a wear indicator.
Last edited by cxwrench; 09-23-20 at 11:55 AM.
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Paging @Tomm Willians . We need pictures of your rim labels, another sidewall, and your brake pads.
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While I disagree with cxwrench...and with you...about the model of the rim, I do agree with him that what you are seeing is “oil canning”. The eyelets area is resists bending while between the eyelets is somewhat softer. The rim bends slightly as the brake slides over the spaces between the eyelets then flares out again. The result is a slight pulsation of the brakes that you likely won’t feel but it results in an odd wear pattern. There’s nothing really wrong with it. Check the rims occasionally for straight walls by putting a straight edge on them. If they cup, replace them. Otherwise just ride.
There is a sticker on the rim with the model number I gave so I’m assuming it’s correct.
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How can you not agree? The OP says it's a 280. I've provided photos of 280s. There is no wear indicator. Other members have posted that there were no indicators on these rims. Why are you so stubborn?
ETA: The production of these stopped sometime in the late 80's. They were replaced w/ the Open series. In the 90's these rims were welded together and machined (SUP). It was another 10 years or so before they ever had a groove machined as a wear indicator.
ETA: The production of these stopped sometime in the late 80's. They were replaced w/ the Open series. In the 90's these rims were welded together and machined (SUP). It was another 10 years or so before they ever had a groove machined as a wear indicator.
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Yes, there is no wear indicator on the pictures you provided. There is obviously a wear indicator line in the pictures Tomm Williams provided. Nothing imbedded in a brake track would make such a consistently regular line for that long at exactly the half way point between the rim edge and the spoke bed. Look at the other scratches on the rim. None of them are as long nor as deep. If the rim were worn and that were a crack, it wouldn’t be that regular. There may be something hinky going on with the model of the rim but it is obvious to others as well as myself that the line is a wear indicator line.
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#32
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What other model would my rims be if they are not actually GEL 280’s as marked ? Was mismarking products a known issue with Mavic ? Would there be any other identification features on the rims that would resolve identifying them ?
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No, they did not mismark rims. The only other thing they could be is the GL330, the heavier version of the 280. The SSC was a different color. Once they stopped making those rims the tubular were the same shape as the clinchers. Trust me, you have either a 280 or a 330. Trust me, they did NOT have wear indicators. Trust me, they did not have machined brack tracks. There is nothing wrong w/ your wheels, they have completely normal wear but are totally rideable.
#34
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Actually the rims do look pretty worn. But they are probably alright for another while. I have run gp4s down till they started to crack at the bend. Not the same rim but very similar construction.
And there was no anodizing left anywhere on the braking surface. I felt pulsing in the brake lever and I had a good look at them. Front went first obviously.
So I would give them a good clean and inspect. You should get plenty of warning if they are on the way out. No harm to look.
How deep is the abrasion on the surface?
And there was no anodizing left anywhere on the braking surface. I felt pulsing in the brake lever and I had a good look at them. Front went first obviously.
So I would give them a good clean and inspect. You should get plenty of warning if they are on the way out. No harm to look.
How deep is the abrasion on the surface?
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For the last time...NO...it is not an indicator. These rims were made from 60's(maybe70's) through the 80's. Mavic didn't mill brake tracks til the mid-late 90's. They didn't even start with indicators until the 2000's. I promise you that this is most definitely NOT a machined groove. A small rock could easily get imbedded in the pad and cause this. I don't have the time or the energy to argue w/ stubborn know-nots any more today, I need to get back to my day job...which for the last 25 years has been a bike mechanic. I'll never understand people that can't admit they're wrong because they 'think' they're right.
On the other hand, if it “just a gouge”, it’s an incredible deep one and the rim is certainly ruined. Never mind the discoloration, a gouge like that is a sure sign that the rim has a significant stress riser on it and will likely break before too long. I have never been a fan of the machined wear grooves because they are stress risers but an uncontrolled gouge...if we are to believe your scenario... of this size is even worse and of immediate concern.
I don’t happen to subscribe to that wild scenario.
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#36
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Does the “gouge” go all the way around the rim? How deep does it look? From the picture it looks exactly like a wear indicator. If it goes all the way around the rim, it is a wear indicator. If it is only a “scratch” like cxwrench contents, the it looks very deep and it is very, very long for a simple “scratch”. It is a gouge that indicates serious damage to the brake track and is likely to crack in the future. If it does crack, it probably won’t cause you to crash but it might end up in a walk of shame.
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#37
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Does the “gouge” go all the way around the rim? How deep does it look? From the picture it looks exactly like a wear indicator. If it goes all the way around the rim, it is a wear indicator. If it is only a “scratch” like cxwrench contents, the it looks very deep and it is very, very long for a simple “scratch”. It is a gouge that indicates serious damage to the brake track and is likely to crack in the future. If it does crack, it probably won’t cause you to crash but it might end up in a walk of shame.
A pic of the other side will prove it.
The o.p. was concerned enough to question it and he was right. I would be seeking a replacement if I was doing a lot of miles on it.
It's on the way out. It's needs a good clean and inspection.
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On one hand, I'd be amazed to see a hardox rim with wear indicators.
On the other, that looks very much like a wear indicator and nothing else.
Weird.
On the other, that looks very much like a wear indicator and nothing else.
Weird.
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Took some additional pics of just one side of the front rim after wiping it down, hopefully these resolve any debate? I will take a few of the other side in just a moment
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I willing to admit when I’m wrong and that’s the case here. On the other hand, gouges that deep are cause for concern. The sidewalls of the rim are compromised not because of the “tin canning” between the spokes but because of the deep scratches. The wheels are seriously worn.
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I willing to admit when I’m wrong and that’s the case here. On the other hand, gouges that deep are cause for concern. The sidewalls of the rim are compromised not because of the “tin canning” between the spokes but because of the deep scratches. The wheels are seriously worn.
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I willing to admit when I’m wrong and that’s the case here. On the other hand, gouges that deep are cause for concern. The sidewalls of the rim are compromised not because of the “tin canning” between the spokes but because of the deep scratches. The wheels are seriously worn.
Excellent choice.
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Two other rims to consider:
Sun M13-II: much like a Rigida 1320, ~$25-35 (these used to be much cheaper!)
Pacenti Brevet: looks sort of like a 50's Mavic but for the machined sidewalls, wider but still lightweight, ~$80
Sun M13-II: much like a Rigida 1320, ~$25-35 (these used to be much cheaper!)
Pacenti Brevet: looks sort of like a 50's Mavic but for the machined sidewalls, wider but still lightweight, ~$80
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I see a whole bunch of wear indicators on that rim. At least a couple of them indicate the rim is worn out.
You say the bike is a vintage Wilier? Does it have the cromovelato finish? The first time I saw one of those I was stunned by how beautiful it was.
You say the bike is a vintage Wilier? Does it have the cromovelato finish? The first time I saw one of those I was stunned by how beautiful it was.
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I had a rim that did that. Something (a rock?), had put a little divot in the rim, and left a small crater and surrounding that, a little bit of deformed metal sticking up. I removed it with some fine emery and steel wool (took a long time) and the wheels lasted for quite a while more before other unrelated problems arose.
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I’d like to move to clinchers and it looks like the Pacenti are tubulars?
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They're tubeless-compatible clincher rims. You can run regular clincher tires on them if you wish.
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This rim is toast!