Front Campy Record Brake Caliper - Can't remove
#1
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Front Campy Record Brake Caliper - Can't remove
I have had this brake caliper since 1997. It hasn't been removed for over 20 years from this fork.
1. Two things - from the picture, I can't get the screw to budge - suggestions?
2. If you look at this picture from the front, the right brake lever has no resistance, doesn't spring back. I am thinking it's shot?
I guess the main thing is getting the brake off but I don't want to crack the carbon fork.
Help is appreciated
1. Two things - from the picture, I can't get the screw to budge - suggestions?
2. If you look at this picture from the front, the right brake lever has no resistance, doesn't spring back. I am thinking it's shot?
I guess the main thing is getting the brake off but I don't want to crack the carbon fork.
Help is appreciated
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The return spring on the brake has likely become dislodged or snapped (happens) - may be fixable without having to remove the caliper if it's dislodged. Take a look at how the spring on the rear caliper is arranged to give you some idea about how the front should look. If you want to remove the front brake, the cylindrical nut is likely seized onto the brake bolt. You could try to break it free by holding onto the caliper with one hand and giving the nut some welly (a ratchet handle with a 5mm hex head would give you more grunt) without involving the fork in the process - all the force would be on the caliper and nut. However, you run the risk of rounding out or snapping the head off the nut (it's usually aluminum), which might strand the caliper in place. I would start dripping some penetrating oil into the center hole of the nut over a couple of days - orientate the fork so the nut faces upward to contain the oil. The only way out for the oil is over the threads you want to free up. Is that an LS Classic? It's the only LS of that vintage that I can think of that has an FD tab
Last edited by Litespud; 02-24-21 at 07:10 PM.
#3
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Fit a longer brake 5mm hex nut so it sits proud of the forks and give it a good dunt with a real hammer. Most likely the star washer has attached it's self to the fork and needs some persuasion to move.
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Maybe a dumb question but it looks like in the photos that your cable is detached or was that too easy I also agree check the spring to see if dislodged or broken and spray some PB Blaster on that nut (through the back of the fork) to help in getting it off.
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#5
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The crown on that fork should be aluminum and fairly resistant to damage. The steel mounting nut has likely corroded to the threaded brake stud. Penetrating fluid slopped all over the place might help after a few days. Only one way out is to crank on it after a thorough soaking of fluid and hope the mounting nut head does not round out.
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#6
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I'd try the suggestions above before trying to muscle the bolt out. If you have to get it out, I would spray it with Kroil, if you have any, or Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc to see if that will help loosen the bolt. Let the stuff sit over night before you really crank on it.
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Thanks guys for your suggestions. Once I get the rest of the components all cleaned up I am going to soak it with wd40. If I mess it up I can still salvage the brake and it will just be opened after closing with my hand!!! I tried extending the hex key with a pipe over it but that didn't work well.
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IMHO PB Blaster will work much better than WD40. It is worth keeping some around.
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#9
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I once worked on a bike that required 3 days to remove the brake calipers. Corroded tight. First tried a series of increasingly noxious and effective penetrating oils, marinating the nut from both sides, and leaving for 24 hours. When this didn't work, I eventually moved on to a heat gun, open flame, and finally drilling. Hopefully you don't have to go there. Mind you, every single nut and fastener on that bike was siezed up solid with corrosion, which almost resulted in the demise of that cursed steed. Chainring bolts, brake and shifter barrel adjusters, rack and fender mounts etc. Everything. Plus the pedals. Damn.
So take care of these brakes, as these are about the best road calipers ever made. Superior cold-forged construction, top-end materials and fittings, and 2 rows of tiny thrust bearings between the 2 pivots; way over-engineered and expensive. Make sure to regrease the pivots upon rebuilt and reassembly: grease, not oil. When maintained, these calipers will provide a lifetime of superior performance.
So take care of these brakes, as these are about the best road calipers ever made. Superior cold-forged construction, top-end materials and fittings, and 2 rows of tiny thrust bearings between the 2 pivots; way over-engineered and expensive. Make sure to regrease the pivots upon rebuilt and reassembly: grease, not oil. When maintained, these calipers will provide a lifetime of superior performance.
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Take off the front wheel. Turn the bike upside down. If fork is like mine, the bolt / nut & threads are now exposed. If so, good access for some PB Blaster. Every day for 3 days. Then try to loosen, allen key in 1 hand, holding the brake with the other. If it's still too tight go 3 more days. Pretty sure this will loosen up, Campy Record isn't junky stuff. Don't lose patience and start breaking stuff.
Last edited by grizzly59; 02-26-21 at 06:39 PM.
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My favorite penetrants are Chill Zone and Liquid Wrench. But you're more likely to strip the hex nut or sprain your wrist than damage the fork.
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Best, Ben
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