To Brift or Not to Brift?
#1
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To Brift or Not to Brift?
Hello Gang,
I recently purchased a 1993 Bianchi Forza from a Seller on CL.
The bike is in good shape (been hanging in his garage for the last 25 years...)
I currently have it at my LBS to have the frame faced, and the BB chased.
Plan A: I have an almost complete Campy Mirage nine-speed drivetrain. I will use either the original Shimano DT shifters, or go with Suntour Accushift, (friction-shift mode) downtube shifters, Cane Creek brake levers. For wheels, I have a 36-spoke wheel built on a Malliard hub for the front wheel, and a rear wheel built around a black Campy Mirage hub (I believe the spoke count on the real wheel is 28 spokes). The rest of the bike will be built up with spares that I have in "inventory".
Plan B: Recycle the original wheels for a more correct "look". The wheels will need truing and an overhaul of the bearings. The drivetrain will then be a mix and match of Campy, with a seven speed Shimano cassette on the rear wheel.
Plan C: I scored a good deal on a pair of Campy Khamsin C17 wheels. Plan C is Plan A with the Campy wheels, and nine-speed Campy brifters (I have the brifters and the brake/shift cable kit on the shelf).
Plan D: Reassemble with the original Shimano Exage drivetrain. The only problem her is that the front chainrings are 52/42 and I am old and fat. The Campy crankset is a 50/34 compact crank so I will end up a with lower (more useful) gearing.
I realize the Forza is a low-end made in Taiwan frame set, but it scratches my itch for an "Italian Road machine"
Any thoughts, suggestions or comments welcomed.
I recently purchased a 1993 Bianchi Forza from a Seller on CL.
The bike is in good shape (been hanging in his garage for the last 25 years...)
I currently have it at my LBS to have the frame faced, and the BB chased.
Plan A: I have an almost complete Campy Mirage nine-speed drivetrain. I will use either the original Shimano DT shifters, or go with Suntour Accushift, (friction-shift mode) downtube shifters, Cane Creek brake levers. For wheels, I have a 36-spoke wheel built on a Malliard hub for the front wheel, and a rear wheel built around a black Campy Mirage hub (I believe the spoke count on the real wheel is 28 spokes). The rest of the bike will be built up with spares that I have in "inventory".
Plan B: Recycle the original wheels for a more correct "look". The wheels will need truing and an overhaul of the bearings. The drivetrain will then be a mix and match of Campy, with a seven speed Shimano cassette on the rear wheel.
Plan C: I scored a good deal on a pair of Campy Khamsin C17 wheels. Plan C is Plan A with the Campy wheels, and nine-speed Campy brifters (I have the brifters and the brake/shift cable kit on the shelf).
Plan D: Reassemble with the original Shimano Exage drivetrain. The only problem her is that the front chainrings are 52/42 and I am old and fat. The Campy crankset is a 50/34 compact crank so I will end up a with lower (more useful) gearing.
I realize the Forza is a low-end made in Taiwan frame set, but it scratches my itch for an "Italian Road machine"
Any thoughts, suggestions or comments welcomed.
#2
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I've no experience with the Campy stuff you have, or with a Bianchi Forza for that matter.
If it is a bike you plan on riding a lot, I'd go brifters/9 speed. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy my downtube-shiftered bikes. But I do prefer brifters.
"If you only knew the power of the dark side..."
If it is a bike you plan on riding a lot, I'd go brifters/9 speed. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy my downtube-shiftered bikes. But I do prefer brifters.
"If you only knew the power of the dark side..."
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#3
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Yeah, a lot of people like brifters. If you're one of them, they're hard to beat.
I, personally, can't stand them. They allow me to form bad habits and, before long, pain.
I, personally, can't stand them. They allow me to form bad habits and, before long, pain.
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Since you have the Campy 9-sp stuff and the crank is what you're looking for, that route makes sense. I haven't used Campy brifters, but the Shimano ones I've owned were great.
Kinda like car transmissions - standard or automatic both get the job done, it's just a matter of personal preference.
Kinda like car transmissions - standard or automatic both get the job done, it's just a matter of personal preference.
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I replaced the DT shifters in my 1989 Bottecchia (bought it new in 1989) with Campy Athena 11 speed.
I am glad I did.
I think that you will be happy too.
post pictures.
I am glad I did.
I think that you will be happy too.
post pictures.
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#6
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What length of crankarms is the Campy? Could be a deciding factor as well. Do you need 170, 172 or 175.
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I need a picture or two of this bike. Then I can suggest that you stay DT shifter and use the compact cranks until...
#8
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I recently picked up a cheap Specialized Allez w/ complete 105 and I gotta say I really miss using the more modern drivetrain stuff. My vote is to put the brifters on it.
#9
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quicker easier more seductive the dark side is....
Seriously you have all the stuff why not give it a whirl not like you can't swap back to the DT stuff if you don't like it.
Seriously you have all the stuff why not give it a whirl not like you can't swap back to the DT stuff if you don't like it.
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Everyone should have at least one bike with DT shifters... if you’ve met that requirement, brift away.
Otherwise, the Bianchi would make a nice one.
Otherwise, the Bianchi would make a nice one.
#11
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IMHO, brifters allow for faster gear changes.
If that’s significant, then do it.
I’ve got several brifter bikes from this millennium, so I keep the vintage bikes (except 1) as downtube shifters, friction. Helps keep my fine motor skills alive and well.
I also like the feel of Campy Ergo from the early ‘00s. But that’s a personal preference, not a functional issue.
If that’s significant, then do it.
I’ve got several brifter bikes from this millennium, so I keep the vintage bikes (except 1) as downtube shifters, friction. Helps keep my fine motor skills alive and well.
I also like the feel of Campy Ergo from the early ‘00s. But that’s a personal preference, not a functional issue.
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#13
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No one can tell you what to do with regard to brifters vs downtube. It's too personal.
What size bike is it ? As we get older that distance to the downtubes can become longer and longer. Do you find yourself reaching too much ? Does it stop you from shifting as often as you should ? Follow your gut. It's rarely wrong
What size bike is it ? As we get older that distance to the downtubes can become longer and longer. Do you find yourself reaching too much ? Does it stop you from shifting as often as you should ? Follow your gut. It's rarely wrong
#14
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plan c, is my vote! it's hard to maneuver quickly with one hand if you need to shift, too. brifters eliminate that
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Since this is the C&V section I'm not going to vote brifters. Skip the modern parts unless you'd rather have a new bike instead of an old one.
#16
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I was worried about being irretrievably seduced by the dark side, too. I've built four briftered bikes in the last four years and plan on doing another when I get one of those new-fangled 9-speed Ultra groups all together They are all nice feeling and snickety-snick and they please me with their clever functionality and light touch.
But my bikes that get the most miles are still the ones with barcons or down tube shifters. It's all good.
Edit: I have not one damn thing to apologize for on this bike, it just works:
But my bikes that get the most miles are still the ones with barcons or down tube shifters. It's all good.
Edit: I have not one damn thing to apologize for on this bike, it just works:
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 08-31-19 at 12:45 AM.
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#17
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I like Brifter but the "more hand positions" crowd on Drop bar bikes is good I keep feeling I have to go back to the hoods to be able to constantly be able to either change gears or be able to use the brakes.
I have found some Ultegra level parts for flat bars and while there are less hand positions, I feel more comfortable being able to brake or shift at anytime along with having more comfort being more upright.
I have found some Ultegra level parts for flat bars and while there are less hand positions, I feel more comfortable being able to brake or shift at anytime along with having more comfort being more upright.
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Most of my vintage steel bikes have Ergo Power shifters, 130mm spacing, modern gearing, saddles, bars, stems and Look pedals. To me, the beauty is in riding them, especially in a peloton of the latest and greatest bikes out there.
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My last major project was replacing the 740x on my Pinarello with Campy including ergo's . It was a good move but I can't see doing it on bikes that didn't have that option in the years they were sold. The ergo's allow for more shifts under different situations. I can't say I am faster but I can say it is a bit easier. Can't see the use for long rides though.
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#20
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So far am sold on brifters. Running Microshift, so not the goofy Shimano where the entire lever moves, which I find the source of unintended shifts. Much easier, at least to me, if powering up a hill or screaming downhill. They are there, no having to reach down. The downside i experience is I don’t always remember what gear I am in as with a downtube I can tell by feel where the lever is.
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I vote for the Campy Ergo option. If I was limited to just one bike, it would have Campy Ergo 8,9, or 10 speed. Fortunately I have several bikes and I enjoy the shifting on them all, and like switching back and forth. The one shifting mode I have used and didn’t like was 9 speed friction; Shimano in this case with bar ends. I think the narrow cog spacing makes the shifts and trimming too finicky. YMMV.
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#22
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I like brifters, but don’t feel particularly inconvenienced without them. If they make sense for you, go for it.
That said I do think some C&V bikes should be kept in their original(ish) configuration. I’m sure I’ve saved countless classics from modernization using my ninja-like internet persuasiveness. I’m sure you agree.
That said I do think some C&V bikes should be kept in their original(ish) configuration. I’m sure I’ve saved countless classics from modernization using my ninja-like internet persuasiveness. I’m sure you agree.
#23
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Yeah .. I ride my more modern bikes mostly but have a collection of classics with DT. While I'll always love the classics it takes me a minute to get back to reaching down to change gears. I hate to admit it but modern technology with brifters and 11 gears is easier. The thing about DT on a classic is usually you only have 6-7 gear choices so switching gears is not something you do a lot of. So if you plan to ride this a lot I would go with a modern setup. I never thought I'd say that...but it is easier.
#24
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I prefer bar ends or downtube shifters because they just work and do so with boring reliability. Additionally I am not racing and I think that is where brifters really shine. My 2x10 SOMA build uses Dura Ace bar ends and very slick shifting. Probably the best shifting of any bike I own, My only brifter equipped bike has equally slick shifting but shifters were more than double the cost of the Dura Ace bar ends.
Brifters can be nice, they offering decent shifting when properly set up, are more easily damaged in wrecks, oh and they can get gunked up which requires getting a good solvent bath and relube .
I thoroughly disagree with those who assert brifters are necessary for long rides. I do not do a lot of shifting as a rule unless I need to change a gear which usually involves a climb, and I have a lot of opportunities to do nice longer rides here in the Willamette Valley , but then again see my comments about not racing .
Brifters can be nice, they offering decent shifting when properly set up, are more easily damaged in wrecks, oh and they can get gunked up which requires getting a good solvent bath and relube .
I thoroughly disagree with those who assert brifters are necessary for long rides. I do not do a lot of shifting as a rule unless I need to change a gear which usually involves a climb, and I have a lot of opportunities to do nice longer rides here in the Willamette Valley , but then again see my comments about not racing .
#25
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Just be advised that doing a low budget "upgrade" like this, mixing and matching components, you may encounter some unanticipated challenges. There were some combinations that worked acceptably when new, but if you are working with worn or mismatched parts, I suggest you manage expectation.
I ride bikes ranging from 5 speed "analog" downtube shifters to Shimano DI2 (which is awesome!). Each is different and enjoyable. But the more advanced setups like Record 10 (for ex) require that everything - cable tension, chain wear, etc - be in very good condition and perfect adjustment to give satisfactory performance.
My #1 bike - best bike I've ever ridden - has Campy 9 speed which I think is the smoothest running - kind of the sweet spot. I find the Campy 11 and SRAM systems to be very fussy - not to mention that a replacement cassette can cost 300 bucks! which is crazy.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
I ride bikes ranging from 5 speed "analog" downtube shifters to Shimano DI2 (which is awesome!). Each is different and enjoyable. But the more advanced setups like Record 10 (for ex) require that everything - cable tension, chain wear, etc - be in very good condition and perfect adjustment to give satisfactory performance.
My #1 bike - best bike I've ever ridden - has Campy 9 speed which I think is the smoothest running - kind of the sweet spot. I find the Campy 11 and SRAM systems to be very fussy - not to mention that a replacement cassette can cost 300 bucks! which is crazy.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Last edited by mpetry912; 08-30-19 at 09:24 AM.