Recommend a truing stand?
03-14-16, 04:41 AM
#26
Senior Member
Park TS-2 FTW. I got mine 25 years ago (1991) and it has always been the cornerstone of my home shop. The sad thing is that I rarely need to use it as all the wheels in my garage are either hand built by me or those that came with the bikes they are on were re-tensioned and trued immediately after purchase.
I actually use my TS-2 more for truing disc brake rotor than for truing wheels. I have the Park DT-3 rotor truing gauge that bolts onto one of the uprights of the TS-2 and works great.
While a truing stand is totally not necessary to maintain your wheels, if you are going to invest in one then I would recommend a TS-2 for its quality.
-j
I actually use my TS-2 more for truing disc brake rotor than for truing wheels. I have the Park DT-3 rotor truing gauge that bolts onto one of the uprights of the TS-2 and works great.
While a truing stand is totally not necessary to maintain your wheels, if you are going to invest in one then I would recommend a TS-2 for its quality.
-j
Last edited by Zef; 03-14-16 at 04:45 AM.
03-14-16, 05:54 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Munising, Michigan, USA
Posts: 4,131
Bikes: Priority 600, Priority Continuum, Devinci Dexter
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 685 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 55 Times
in
37 Posts
I really like the independent feelers on each side. I usually adjust off the highest spot on one side, then pull that feeler away from the rim, and take the highest spot off the other side, and repeat. It's hard to work on low spots in the rim, but high spots are easy--I adjust the feeler to just touch the highest spot and listen to the rubbing noise as I move the rim back and forth or spin it.
03-14-16, 01:05 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,407
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I built and use the Roger Musson stand, as detailed in his wheel building book. I've been really happy with it. It cost me very little, but I did have access to some wood working tools at the time I built it. I really enjoy that it's visual only, as I think the metal on metal grinding of the feelers/rim would detract from the peaceful detail work of building/truing.
-Jeremy
-Jeremy
03-14-16, 02:40 PM
#29
Senior Member
Years ago, I got the Spin Doctor stand. It works great.
I see it's available again at Performance.
I really like the independent feelers on each side. I usually adjust off the highest spot on one side, then pull that feeler away from the rim, and take the highest spot off the other side, and repeat. It's hard to work on low spots in the rim, but high spots are easy--I adjust the feeler to just touch the highest spot and listen to the rubbing noise as I move the rim back and forth or spin it.
The wheel support arms are self-centering, both arms move in-and-out together, for the different front and back wheel widths. It's actually quite accurate, more than I'd expect. I can (carefully) flip the wheel in the stand, and compare the side-to-side measurements on the radius gauge (by using some masking tape to show the edge of the rim). Then, on the bike, flipping the wheel and comparing the brake clearances shows it's well centered.
I wouldn't like single sided stands at all. And I've never used those stands with one knob to move both feelers together, but that seems harder to use.
I see it's available again at Performance.
I really like the independent feelers on each side. I usually adjust off the highest spot on one side, then pull that feeler away from the rim, and take the highest spot off the other side, and repeat. It's hard to work on low spots in the rim, but high spots are easy--I adjust the feeler to just touch the highest spot and listen to the rubbing noise as I move the rim back and forth or spin it.
The wheel support arms are self-centering, both arms move in-and-out together, for the different front and back wheel widths. It's actually quite accurate, more than I'd expect. I can (carefully) flip the wheel in the stand, and compare the side-to-side measurements on the radius gauge (by using some masking tape to show the edge of the rim). Then, on the bike, flipping the wheel and comparing the brake clearances shows it's well centered.
I wouldn't like single sided stands at all. And I've never used those stands with one knob to move both feelers together, but that seems harder to use.
03-14-16, 10:38 PM
#30
Senior Member
Having worked in bike shops for many years as a young man my main exposure was to the Park Pro truing stand (TS-2). A few years ago I splurged and bought one. Really glad I did. It makes truing a wheel an enjoyable thing (especially with music in the background).
Last edited by drlogik; 03-14-16 at 11:18 PM.
03-15-16, 03:51 AM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 586
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What's the deal with the gauges on the Park TS 2 or 2.2 stands? They're add-ons, but what's the advantage of the gauge? You just know the distance the wheel wobbles? That's nice but... If you correct that, I guess eventually you get to measure how much the wheel itself can't be trued anymore.
And what is this tool for the Park stands?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27X93NWXJG7JD
Park Tool Centering Gauge for TS-2 and TS-3 Truing Stand
$60.50
What is it about the Park stand that this tool centers?
And what is this tool for the Park stands?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27X93NWXJG7JD
Park Tool Centering Gauge for TS-2 and TS-3 Truing Stand
$60.50
What is it about the Park stand that this tool centers?
03-15-16, 04:41 AM
#32
Senior Member
And what is this tool for the Park stands?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27X93NWXJG7JD
Park Tool Centering Gauge for TS-2 and TS-3 Truing Stand
$60.50
What is it about the Park stand that this tool centers?
you use the gauge to check if tne truing stand calipers are centered. If you close the calipers and one side touches the gauge before the other, your stand needs to be adjusted.
03-15-16, 05:48 AM
#33
Senior Member
What's the deal with the gauges on the Park TS 2 or 2.2 stands? They're add-ons, but what's the advantage of the gauge? You just know the distance the wheel wobbles? That's nice but... If you correct that, I guess eventually you get to measure how much the wheel itself can't be trued anymore.
And what is this tool for the Park stands?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27X93NWXJG7JD
Park Tool Centering Gauge for TS-2 and TS-3 Truing Stand
$60.50
What is it about the Park stand that this tool centers?
And what is this tool for the Park stands?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27X93NWXJG7JD
Park Tool Centering Gauge for TS-2 and TS-3 Truing Stand
$60.50
What is it about the Park stand that this tool centers?
The gauges are to satisfy a level of OCD that is not really required for truing wheels. All kidding aside...the gauges provide a visual numeric quantification for how out of true the wheel is and how much it needs to move to be brought back into true. Some people really like the visual display that the gauges provide while others find them completely unnecessary and an added expense they can do without.
The tool you linked to allows gives one an easy to use reference to center the uprights and the lateral feelers. It is only necessary if you want to dial in your truing stand so that it can be used to automatically reference dish. The adjustment can be made easily enough if you have a true and properly dished wheel to use as a reference. Many people do not trust the auto-center function of the stand for referencing dish and use a separate dishing tool to confirm if the rim is properly centered between the locknuts of the hub.
Hope that helps.
-j
03-15-16, 06:08 AM
#34
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,396
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,696 Times
in
2,517 Posts
back when my eyes were better, dial gauges mostly just annoyed me. Now they seem like a good idea.
03-15-16, 06:10 AM
#35
Sr Member on Sr bikes
Dan
03-15-16, 10:22 AM
#36
Senior Member
If I recall correctly from the manual that came with my TS2 25 years ago, that was how they suggested referencing the uprights if a true & dished wheel was not available.
03-15-16, 10:43 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Northern California
Posts: 145
Bikes: RitcheyAscent, FisherMontare
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I built and use the Roger Musson stand, as detailed in his wheel building book. I've been really happy with it. It cost me very little, but I did have access to some wood working tools at the time I built it. I really enjoy that it's visual only, as I think the metal on metal grinding of the feelers/rim would detract from the peaceful detail work of building/truing.
-Jeremy
-Jeremy
The cost was $0 for me (except $9 for Musson's book), as I have the tools and plywood spares. I've built 7 wheels to date w/o problems other than the odd after-first-ride adjustment.
03-15-16, 10:52 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Time to get myself into trouble:
When a company, like Park Tool, markets a semi-expensive calibration tool, there's a reason for it Park tool makes a big deal about the uprights not having to be clamped super tight against the axle's locknuts. My suspicion is that older truing stands, that have had a lot of different users, get wonky from over tightening. I can tell you for sure that mine centers differently for a 100 mm hub than it does for a 135 mm hub.
If I were building wheels in quantity, I'd do whatever I had to do to get mine working reliably again. Building one or two sets of wheels per year, I use a separate dish guage.
When a company, like Park Tool, markets a semi-expensive calibration tool, there's a reason for it Park tool makes a big deal about the uprights not having to be clamped super tight against the axle's locknuts. My suspicion is that older truing stands, that have had a lot of different users, get wonky from over tightening. I can tell you for sure that mine centers differently for a 100 mm hub than it does for a 135 mm hub.
If I were building wheels in quantity, I'd do whatever I had to do to get mine working reliably again. Building one or two sets of wheels per year, I use a separate dish guage.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
