Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Anyone planning on buying one?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Anyone planning on buying one?

Old 11-30-19, 08:40 AM
  #26  
trailangel
Senior Member
 
trailangel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 4,847

Bikes: Schwinn Varsity

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1931 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times in 421 Posts
Can't even like purple nipples...... (did I just say that?)
trailangel is offline  
Old 11-30-19, 09:36 AM
  #27  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
Thread Starter
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times in 2,325 Posts
Originally Posted by djb
ha, I've seen shots of your bikes before, but I dont recall ever noticing the multi coloured crank bolts before!
Hey, as your bikes show, goofing around with colour accents and stuff is fun, and coming from a visual background, playing around with visual stuff is all good. Makes the world less blah, and having fun and enjoying this sport of ours is what it's all about.
(forgot about my early 90s purple Ortliebs, still have one in the household and it refuses to die, although it has faded a heck of a lot)
Take a look at the valve caps and spoke nipples And, although you can really see them, the bolts on the brake rotors follow the same pattern.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 11-30-19, 06:37 PM
  #28  
djb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 13,191
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 952 Times in 783 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Take a look at the valve caps and spoke nipples And, although you can really see them, the bolts on the brake rotors follow the same pattern.
and sheesh, dont even get me started on those spacers!
you certainly have fun with all this stuff. Its neat.
djb is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 10:08 AM
  #29  
pdlamb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,842

Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2575 Post(s)
Liked 1,900 Times in 1,192 Posts
If I wanted a Paul set, I'd wait a year and buy it for $300 on the bay. Half off for year old commemorative parts, anyone?
pdlamb is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 03:56 PM
  #30  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
I would never pay a premium for anniversary anodization.

But I've never seen Paul disc brakes before. Are those jockey-wheel-looking things on the Klampers individual pad adjusters? Seems like a great idea!

AFAIK Paul components, though pricey, are exceptionally well designed and manufactured. Are these mechs as good as hydraulic?
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 04:49 PM
  #31  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,775

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,102 Times in 1,366 Posts
A relic of that brief period in the late 2010's before everyone came to their senses and went back to rim brakes
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 05:09 PM
  #32  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
lol that ship has sailed for mountain bikes, the industry is not going back.

I think they're here to stay for non-MTB as well, I think they have a better long-term prognosis than rim cantis (which still have a small presence, for instance on my cross check)
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 06:10 PM
  #33  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
Thread Starter
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times in 2,325 Posts
Originally Posted by RubeRad
I would never pay a premium for anniversary anodization.

But I've never seen Paul disc brakes before. Are those jockey-wheel-looking things on the Klampers individual pad adjusters? Seems like a great idea!

AFAIK Paul components, though pricey, are exceptionally well designed and manufactured. Are these mechs as good as hydraulic?
Yes, the large wheels on the Klampers are pad adjusters. Both are easier to turn than the wheel you find on Avid’s BB7. The inner one does have a Allen socket on it but it’s hardly needed to turn the adjuster.

As for the quality, they are very good brakes. I’m not a fan of hydraulics and consider any mechanical to be superior to just about any hydraulic. They are better than a BB7 or TRP Spyke and easier to set up. They are completely rebuildable which isn’t something you can say about either the BB7 or the Spyke. They are also easy to convert from short to long pull and vise versa.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 09:05 PM
  #34  
djb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 13,191
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 952 Times in 783 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Yes, the large wheels on the Klampers are pad adjusters. Both are easier to turn than the wheel you find on Avid’s BB7. The inner one does have a Allen socket on it but it’s hardly needed to turn the adjuster.

As for the quality, they are very good brakes. I’m not a fan of hydraulics and consider any mechanical to be superior to just about any hydraulic. They are better than a BB7 or TRP Spyke and easier to set up. They are completely rebuildable which isn’t something you can say about either the BB7 or the Spyke. They are also easy to convert from short to long pull and vise versa.
not at all on my radar, or budget, but they do sound like some pretty neat brakes. With my BB7's, you really do need a torx with you to adjust the inner wheel adjustment thingee (not very often though, so I can live with it)
The conversion from long to short pull is a pretty neat design isnt it?
djb is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 09:41 AM
  #35  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
I’m not a fan of hydraulics and consider any mechanical to be superior to just about any hydraulic.
That is certainly a minority opinion -- why don't you like hydraulics?
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 09:47 AM
  #36  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,799

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12634 Post(s)
Liked 7,528 Times in 3,989 Posts
Originally Posted by djb
showing my age, but I still have some clothing from the 90s when purple was considered cool, but I also sure as heck will never put purple parts on any of my bikes (one of my commuters is a 90s ish bike, and is a muted purple-ish, but not half as blingy purple as these)

for some of us, well for me anyway, the 80s and 90s garish colours put me off these hues for the rest of my life.
The color is definitely a nod to the era 30 years ago. 3D Violet they often called it back in the day.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 10:02 AM
  #37  
smurfy
Senior Member
 
smurfy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,258

Bikes: Classic lugged-steel road, touring, shopping, semi-recumbent, gravel

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 32 Posts
Is this were a complete group set (ft. and rr. deraillers, brake calipers or cantis, hubs, etc.) it might be worth it. Anyway if I was Michael Bloomberg I would buy it just for the heck of it.
smurfy is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 11:58 AM
  #38  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
Thread Starter
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times in 2,325 Posts
Originally Posted by RubeRad
That is certainly a minority opinion -- why don't you like hydraulics?
I'm not so sure it's a minority opinion. My co-op has a box full of hydraulic brakes and zero mechanicals. At Veloswap this year I was specifically looking for mechanicals and found dozens and dozens of barely used hydraulics sets (front and rear) but only 5 to 6 individual mechanicals. If hydraulics are so popular and so good, why do I find so many used ones that are nearly new?

From a mechanical standpoint, hydraulics work well until they don't and then they are a bugger to fix. Bleeding them is messy, time consuming and generally a royal pain. Returning them to how they came out of the factory is nearly impossible in my experience. Dealing with syringes and bleed ports and the fluid is usually not worth the effort. I wonder if that's why I find so many used hydraulics? The only hydraulic I've worked on that was simple is the Hope which are just like a car. Open them up, open the bleed port, pour in some fluid, pump them until they are firm and close them up again. Simple. Avid and Hayes are a difficult and next to impossible to get right.

From a rider's point of view, I haven't found a hydraulic where I like the way they work. People who say that they have "superior modulation" have no idea what modulation means, in my opinion. Modulation...to me...means a little bit of brake lever movement results in a little bit of braking. More lever movement means more braking. A lot of lever movement results in stopping the bike. Every hydraulic I've tried has given me a huge amount of braking for very little lever movement. They have been either "on" or "off" which is the very opposite of "modulation". On steep downhills, the rear end wants to come over the front at the slightest touch of brake which isn't something that I personally like.

Mechanicals, on the other hand, have always worked like brakes should. Drag the brake a little and the bike slows down a little. Hit them hard and the bike stops.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 12:28 PM
  #39  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
Interesting. I have only personally experienced hydraulics, so I can't compare with mechanicals.

I can say that Avid/Sram are a PAIN!!! to bleed, you gotta use these special syringes to create vacuums at both ends to get microscopic bubbles out of DOT fluid, follow a very specific workflow and only do it on a 5th tuesday when there's a full moon. Also my Avids had very bad turkey gobble, until a friend advised me to dab a little grease on the back of the brake pads, that took care of it.

I've found Shimano hydraulics dead easy though, they work great, they use nontoxic mineral oil, and you don't even really need to bleed them, you can just open the top port and 'burp' them by flexing the lever until no more air comes out (which I guess is the same as 'until they're firm', although you don't really know until you close up the port again)

With no experience, I can't compare hydraulic vs mech modulation. You're right, on/off is the opposite of modulation. All I know is, my hydraulics have much better modulation than the V brakes on my old GT mtb. (When my wife started mtb'ing with those brakes, she had a lot of endos and had to learn to be very careful with the front brake) And they are strong enough I can get away with 1 finger braking most of the time, 2 fingers if I happen to be descending a big hill and have to ride the brakes the whole way.

I've also found it difficult to get hydraulics well aligned/centered. The notion of loosen the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake, and tighten them back up, doesn't work that well in practice. But I imagine it would be the same with mechanicals.
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 12:50 PM
  #40  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
Thread Starter
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times in 2,325 Posts
Originally Posted by RubeRad
Interesting. I have only personally experienced hydraulics, so I can't compare with mechanicals.

I can say that Avid/Sram are a PAIN!!! to bleed, you gotta use these special syringes to create vacuums at both ends to get microscopic bubbles out of DOT fluid, follow a very specific workflow and only do it on a 5th tuesday when there's a full moon. Also my Avids had very bad turkey gobble, until a friend advised me to dab a little grease on the back of the brake pads, that took care of it.
Yep. Kind of my experience. As of the turkey gobble, I solved that by replacing the stock rotor with a more round one. The "gobble" came from the pads squeezing on the peaks of Avid's early "Roundagon" rotor then flexing inward as the peaks passed and then being forced open again. Once I changed to the round G3 or a Magura, the problem went away.

Originally Posted by RubeRad
I've found Shimano hydraulics dead easy though, they work great, they use nontoxic mineral oil, and you don't even really need to bleed them, you can just open the top port and 'burp' them by flexing the lever until no more air comes out (which I guess is the same as 'until they're firm', although you don't really know until you close up the port again)
I haven't worked on Shimanos. I've looked at how to do them and they do have a slightly less complicated system but the mineral oil is a problem. DOT3 fluid is cheap and readily available. You can pick up 200 mL of the stuff for a couple of bucks. That's more than enough to do a brake bleed on a bike. And, if the brake uses DOT fluid, you can probably use DOT3 on it. Shimano's mineral oil costs about $15 for 100 mL and can only be used on Shimano brakes.

I've also heard about the "burping" but I wonder if you couldn't do the same with Avid.

Originally Posted by RubeRad
With no experience, I can't compare hydraulic vs mech modulation. You're right, on/off is the opposite of modulation. All I know is, my hydraulics have much better modulation than the V brakes on my old GT mtb. (When my wife started mtb'ing with those brakes, she had a lot of endos and had to learn to be very careful with the front brake) And they are strong enough I can get away with 1 finger braking most of the time, 2 fingers if I happen to be descending a big hill and have to ride the brakes the whole way.
I've never had a brake that wasn't what I would call modulated. I run cantilever, road side pull, linear and mechanical disc. They all work the same in my experience. I even have a bike with disc on the front and v-brakes on the back (call a Colorado Mullet by some of my mechanic friends). I don't use the rear brake any differently than the front. I don't feel any difference in the lever pull between them.

Being an old mountain biker, I've never seen the whole "one finger" thing as being something I strive for. I usually brake with at least 2 fingers and 3 if I can get them on the lever. I used to use up to 4 way back in the Stone Age. At times I'd like to go back to that. I don't need to hang on to the handlebars with the other fingers.

Originally Posted by RubeRad
I've also found it difficult to get hydraulics well aligned/centered. The notion of loosen the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake, and tighten them back up, doesn't work that well in practice. But I imagine it would be the same with mechanicals.
A Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap tool will help. It sets the gap properly and helps align the pads. Disc's don't have much gap between the pads and the rotor and hydraulics need even less than mechanicals do. It works and it's cheap.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 12:57 PM
  #41  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,825

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 128 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4741 Post(s)
Liked 3,860 Times in 2,509 Posts
I'm thinking I could sell my two ti customs, buy the Pauls and probably have enough money left over for a good espresso. No?

Edit: I.d need a new bike to put them on anyway. That anodizing doesn't match anything I've got.

Second edit: Now if I could (honestly) celebrate my 30th birthday next spring. I'd buy 'em for that "30" embossing. Sadly I celebrated my 2nd 30th six years ago.

Ben

Last edited by 79pmooney; 12-03-19 at 01:06 PM.
79pmooney is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 01:36 PM
  #42  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,825

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 128 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4741 Post(s)
Liked 3,860 Times in 2,509 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
....

Being an old mountain biker, I've never seen the whole "one finger" thing as being something I strive for. I usually brake with at least 2 fingers and 3 if I can get them on the lever. I used to use up to 4 way back in the Stone Age. At times I'd like to go back to that. I don't need to hang on to the handlebars with the other fingers.

...
What I want my brakes to do more than anything else is give me a secure, very rapid slowing in hairy situations. My experience over the many decades of riding I have done is that in those situations, I grab those brakes like my life depends on them. Being subtle isn't in the equation. Example - flying down from McKenzie Pass on my then new custom fix gear. 90" gear - huge for fix gears. Bike felt perfect. Dialed into the road and curves. Came to the start of the sweep through the next one but couldn't actually see it until I was close. And it was much steeper and sharper than any I'd seen yet! Panic slow because there wasn't a remote chance of making it around without hitting the pedal hard. Grabbed fistfulls of both brakes.

I'd set the bike up with Shimano dual pivots. (Used; I still don't know what model.) Found some road levers with enormous hoods that my hands love for very hard out-of-the-saddle climbing. (McKensie Pass on a fix gear.) Figured out that these were V-brake levers. Test rode the brand new bike. Different! No modulation in lever travel but wonderful modulation in hand force vs response. Rode the very new bike on that ride, a little nervous about the braking.

Well, when I grabbed those fistfulls, all that happened was that I slowed down really fast. Made that steep, tight corner easily. And in that slowing, nothing happened. No lockup, no rear wheel lifting. Just a whole lot of slowing.

Now, V-brake road levers with regular brakes isn't all gravy. Braking from the hoods is not super. Not an issue for me as I was well drilled by my club's vets to always ride the drops in iffy conditions. Nearly a half century later, I still do. But that wonderful stopping. Sold! Half my bikes are now V-brake levers and dual pivot or canti. The rest have Mafac Racers and regular levers. (The traditional modulation.)

Ben
79pmooney is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 01:54 PM
  #43  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
A Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap tool will help. It sets the gap properly and helps align the pads. Disc's don't have much gap between the pads and the rotor and hydraulics need even less than mechanicals do. It works and it's cheap.
Interesting. I can see how that is useful for setting the gap, but I don't see how it will make caliper alignment be any easier/successful than without that tool.
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 02:09 PM
  #44  
DrIsotope
Non omnino gravis
 
DrIsotope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SoCal, USA!
Posts: 8,553

Bikes: Nekobasu, Pandicorn, Lakitu

Mentioned: 119 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4905 Post(s)
Liked 1,731 Times in 958 Posts
Have y'all been indoors so long that you've all selectively forgotten that Lightweight, Lupine, and Ceramicspeed are all companies that exist? No one needs anything any of those companies produce.

No one needs a fancy $2k component set, but no one needs DuraAce or eTap or <insert product here> either. Wants > needs.

We all know that if it interested him at all, trekmogul would buy two.
__________________
DrIsotope is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 04:59 PM
  #45  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077

Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times in 972 Posts
Some framemaker will probably buy a set or 2 to put on their show bike.
tyrion is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 05:28 PM
  #46  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,775

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,102 Times in 1,366 Posts
Originally Posted by RubeRad
lol that ship has sailed for mountain bikes, the industry is not going back.
Guess it was too dry.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 05:51 PM
  #47  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,775

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,102 Times in 1,366 Posts
Originally Posted by RubeRad
Interesting. I can see how that is useful for setting the gap, but I don't see how it will make caliper alignment be any easier/successful than without that tool.
It doesn't just use the pads for alignment, it uses the entire rotor slot on the caliper. It's a larger datum than the piston itself. Hydraulics set their own gap.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 06:03 PM
  #48  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times in 2,510 Posts
I wonder if it also stiffens the rotor so the caliper is better forced into a well-aligned position, rather than pulling the rotor to itself
RubeRad is offline  
Old 12-03-19, 07:21 PM
  #49  
xiaoman1 
Senior Member
 
xiaoman1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 5,152

Bikes: A few too many

Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1359 Post(s)
Liked 2,173 Times in 1,178 Posts
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier
I priced out the separate parts on Paul's website.

$693.

Maybe they are worried they won't be able to make December rent.
ASIBEM
xiaoman1 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.