JS1965

I didnt agree with the stem being so high?
I told him I dont spend alot of time in the drops and according to my stock stem this new stem would have me at the same level in the hoods now but in the drops...This means I would be WAY up in the hoods?

I decided to just go 1/2 as much in angle but a 110CM length vs my old 12CM

I also dont think I need a shorter crank arm?

He told me my Fuji 61CM was perfect for me?
What do u guys see from this info



Bike : Fuji Roubaix size XL/61 cm. 105 kit, aftermarket Velocity Wheelset.



Seat tube 61cm c-c, virtual top tube 59 c-c.



Stem 120cm / 120 deg rise . bars 44cm.

Current pedal to saddle top – 96cm

Saddle to bar drop – 2cm



Measurements per Fit Kit by mcget 2/6/2013 :

All in cm unless noted



Age - 48 y/o

Inseam – 86.5

Foot – 27.5

Arm – 65.6

Hands – med-large, “square”, as we call them—ie large, for all intents.

Femur – 33

Torso -- 62



Flexibility – excellent – can palm floor with knees straight.

Riding style – road/club. Primarily hoods, steady pace, moderate to longer dist., 25 mi. +. Climbs both seated and standing.



OBSERVATIONS:

History: recent major weight reduction. Less recent injury/surgical repair—rod implants, etc., tibia one side (M/C crash) Range of knee slightly reduced… little sign while pedaling on trainer. Rider is motivated and rides/works out regularly.



Goal: more comfort on long club rides. No major complaints, just seeking to optimize.



Bike: Fuji Roubaix 1 size XL 61cm, w 105 kit, aftermkt Velocity wheelset.

Seat tube 61cm c-c / virtual TT 59cm c-c. Stem 12cm w/10 deg rise, 30mm spacers. Fitted with road cleats/shoes.



Frame size appears correct. Rider a bit overextended; bar drop is nearly 2cm from saddle. Little bit hyperextended elbows in drops; less so on hoods.

Knee slightly acute at top of stroke. A little extra bend in knee at bottom of stroke.

Pedals with heel slightly up. Some neck tension in drops.



Notes: Fit Kit advises same length stem or longer. Mcget feels this is incorrect for this rider, as his need appears to be for more oxygen, less acute knee—not more aero position.



Recommendations—in order of least cost:

1) Move saddle rearwards 1cm or max, which ever is furthest, to render knee less acute.

2) Change to 11cm stem with 20deg. of rise to open up torso/diaphragm when in drops. (should do 1 & 2 same time!) This will allow more use of drops when descending, riding against headwinds, drafting, etc.

3) Try higher saddle position. Must test on road – raise saddle 1 to 3 cms higher than current position, i.e., noticeably higher than correct. Go for a long flat road ride (bring a wrench, ruler and tape to mark seatpost). Ride a gear lower than usual, to get cadence high. Should be bouncing a bit as hips “reach” for pedals. Lower saddle 3mm at a time till no bouncing while in full spin. This will get max correct saddle height. Test at several tempos and watch for hip pain, or other signs of “reaching”; lower if need be.

4) position of hoods looks OK.



Further steps:

1) Seatpost with extra layback to open up knee more. Recheck saddle to pedal height after fitting such a crank. Use 10cm stem with 20deg of rise to keep bar-saddle relationship about the same.

2) Shorter crank arms—if 175, go 170, if 170, go 165. This will render knee less acute at top of stroke. Note: this may require using a higher cadence, as leverage will be reduced slightly.

3) change bars—appears current bars are not ergo in drops (according to Fuji spec. -- confirm?)… if not, ergo style would suit large hands better. Could also consider moving from 44cm bars to 46cm, but this is a judgement call. Has as many negs as positives. 46 would fit shoulders a bit better, but be less aero and also cancel effect of shorter stem. Could also stay with 44cm, but go with a bit more drop; that, along with ergo would give a bit more comfort in the drops.