Night Riding/Training Need Head Light Advice
#51
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I personally use the Bontrager 800R for my road bike headlights in the dark mornings. At around 20-22mph, I can clearly see 60-70 feet in front, which I'm comfortable with. I guess it all depends on your comfort level.
I'd also suggest to have light with at least 8-900 lumens with a more focused beam rather than wide/diffused. If you're in for a fast descend in the dark. Try tilting the light upwards a little before the descend to increase the range.
I'd also suggest to have light with at least 8-900 lumens with a more focused beam rather than wide/diffused. If you're in for a fast descend in the dark. Try tilting the light upwards a little before the descend to increase the range.
#52
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A light I rarey hear mentioned is the Serfas. I have one from around 9 years ago and it has been a workhorse. Not the brightest, not the longest lasting charge but it is the only light I have used for 5 bikes since I got it. Original battery. No noticeable change in run times. Everything else is original. I think even the elastic strap for the HB is original. I love that it goes on and off really easily. Also that it is easy to aim, both side to side and for beam height with one hand while riding. I paid $160 at a shop for it. Given how it has served me, that was a bargain.
It has 5 settings, high though low and flashing. The light last a long time flashing and the flashes are long enough to actually see so while I don't like using the flashing at night it is very nice to know I can use it to both see and be seen when I screwed up on the charge.
I keep thinking its time to get a new light, that technology has progressed, etc., etc. Then I use it again and realize it suits my riding style just fine, it is paid for and apparently thieves have no use for it. Might as well keep it.
Ben
It has 5 settings, high though low and flashing. The light last a long time flashing and the flashes are long enough to actually see so while I don't like using the flashing at night it is very nice to know I can use it to both see and be seen when I screwed up on the charge.
I keep thinking its time to get a new light, that technology has progressed, etc., etc. Then I use it again and realize it suits my riding style just fine, it is paid for and apparently thieves have no use for it. Might as well keep it.
Ben
#53
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It's funny, when I start night riding, the same rides seem very, very different. It's like starting fresh. When all else fails, well, there's the trainer and TV.
#54
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#55
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I sue my urbans on low whenever possible .... normally they are bright enough for safe riding. But ... i have to have two. No battery swap possible.
When I get my CREE set-uop working I might be able to bring one light and a spare battery.
I am pretty sure the Urbans use the same rechargeable battery (my old Lezyne did) and if the Urbans ever die, I will find a way to replace the batteries ...If the factory can do it, so can I. Then I will bring spare batteries .... but the two-light setup is awfully nice for high speeds/bad roads.
When I get my CREE set-uop working I might be able to bring one light and a spare battery.
I am pretty sure the Urbans use the same rechargeable battery (my old Lezyne did) and if the Urbans ever die, I will find a way to replace the batteries ...If the factory can do it, so can I. Then I will bring spare batteries .... but the two-light setup is awfully nice for high speeds/bad roads.
How is your set up working ? Thanks for a great idea (and keeping the funds into other gear). KB
#56
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I have this Light and Motion Taz 1500 and it is superb:
https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...SABEgLvEvD_BwE
Super bright and great coverage. I had a Cateye Volt 1200 too before and that was very nice as well...
https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...SABEgLvEvD_BwE
Super bright and great coverage. I had a Cateye Volt 1200 too before and that was very nice as well...
Cheers
#58
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how tough are these bicycle specific lights?
i use a tactical flashlight with 1000 lumens..it has less of a spread..but it survived crash and being run over by a car...slightly bent but still works flawlessly
i use a tactical flashlight with 1000 lumens..it has less of a spread..but it survived crash and being run over by a car...slightly bent but still works flawlessly
#59
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my advice is refrain from descending at 40mph in the dark
Last edited by Reeses; 10-03-18 at 01:17 AM.
#60
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For night operation, in addition to either my Stupidbright SB3000 headlight or my Ourbound Lighting Road Edition headlight, I also use a pair of taillights and wheel spoke lights.
At night the Cygolite Hotshot Pro 150 taillight is set to blink every second, plus a normal taillight is set to constant illumination. The blinking provides attention and the constant permits accurate location for the person sitting behind the steering wheel.
These wheel spoke lights are amazing for vehicles to notice the bicycle.
At night the Cygolite Hotshot Pro 150 taillight is set to blink every second, plus a normal taillight is set to constant illumination. The blinking provides attention and the constant permits accurate location for the person sitting behind the steering wheel.
These wheel spoke lights are amazing for vehicles to notice the bicycle.
#61
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I had bad luck with cheap CREE flashlights ... but others have spent a little more and got better quality (the ones I had didn't like cycling vibration.) I am going with a double Light-and-motion urban set-up now, a 750 and a 500 ... and I still do most riding with just the 500 on low. If i were going to do do fast descents I would max out both lights .... but i'd avoid such descents int he dark Too many variables, too little reaction time, and if I see an obstacle int eh long light ... i cannot tell if it is safe to go around it until i am too close to make a high-speed maneuver.
The mega-lights are great if all your rides are short, but 1.5 hours burn time ... not getting me home too many times.
The mega-lights are great if all your rides are short, but 1.5 hours burn time ... not getting me home too many times.
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When riding in dark, very familiar routes are an asset. Familiar enough that you know where the bad spots are in the pavement.
It's one less variable of danger.
I live in a more urban/suburban area. I link the neighborhoods together and hit up some hill intervals. 1 min hills, 2 min, 3 min, etc.....
I do dial back the descending and overall "cruise" speed a bit. It's not about avg speed, it's about watts and kilojoules.
It's one less variable of danger.
I live in a more urban/suburban area. I link the neighborhoods together and hit up some hill intervals. 1 min hills, 2 min, 3 min, etc.....
I do dial back the descending and overall "cruise" speed a bit. It's not about avg speed, it's about watts and kilojoules.
#63
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The CREE XM-L T6 LED lights have worked for me. They're nice and cheap, and nice and bright. I've been using them for six years now. After a few years they do start to get unreliable, flickering off and on or dying at inopportune times, which is why I always have two on the bike at a time.
The reason? Low quality means that the contacts seem to loosen after intensive use, requiring new plugs and some wiring handiwork. But that makes them as good as new again, and you really can't beat the price for that kind of kind of luminatory firepower.
This is my standard setup for the dark half of the year.
The reason? Low quality means that the contacts seem to loosen after intensive use, requiring new plugs and some wiring handiwork. But that makes them as good as new again, and you really can't beat the price for that kind of kind of luminatory firepower.
This is my standard setup for the dark half of the year.