Praxis to Shimano Crankset
#1
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Praxis to Shimano Crankset
Anyone ever gone from their stock Praxis to a Shimano crankset and noticed better shifting?
I have a Specialized with stock standard Praxis Alba 48/32 crankset.
Tiagra 10spd shifter
Tiagra 10spd 11-32
Tiagra F and R derailleur
KMC 10 spd chain
I've seen all the youtube videos on front derailleur setup and already done it 3 times over the last 6 months and it still doesn't shift smoothly.
Its aligned parallel, 1mm from the biggest tooth on the big ring, the tension adjuster is already at max.
It shifts perfectly from 48 to 32, always, 100% of the time but its the shifting from 32 to 48 big ring that is a little annoying. It either can't shift up or it does. It never feels....'smooth'. It always leaves me wondering if it will shift.
I'm debating getting a Shimano 105 50/34 since my other components are all tiagra. Naturally I would have to get adapters or a Praxis BB to accommodate the shimano 24mm axles.
Suggestion?
I have a Specialized with stock standard Praxis Alba 48/32 crankset.
Tiagra 10spd shifter
Tiagra 10spd 11-32
Tiagra F and R derailleur
KMC 10 spd chain
I've seen all the youtube videos on front derailleur setup and already done it 3 times over the last 6 months and it still doesn't shift smoothly.
Its aligned parallel, 1mm from the biggest tooth on the big ring, the tension adjuster is already at max.
It shifts perfectly from 48 to 32, always, 100% of the time but its the shifting from 32 to 48 big ring that is a little annoying. It either can't shift up or it does. It never feels....'smooth'. It always leaves me wondering if it will shift.
I'm debating getting a Shimano 105 50/34 since my other components are all tiagra. Naturally I would have to get adapters or a Praxis BB to accommodate the shimano 24mm axles.
Suggestion?
#2
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The issue sounds more like inadequate tension on the front derailleur cable. Loosen the bolt that holds the cable at the FD, grab the cable with pliers and pull, then retighten the bolt while maintaining tension on the cable.
I've got both Praxis and 5800 cranksets and don't notice a difference in shifting.
I've got both Praxis and 5800 cranksets and don't notice a difference in shifting.
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No first-hand experience with Praxis, but they're often mentioned in the same breath as Shimano when it comes to great shifting performance and (iirc) they're the only two manufacturers cold forging their chain rings. While there's always the possibility that there's something wrong with the chainset, I think it's far, far more likely that there's something wrong with the set-up.
In addition to what revchuck suggests, I'd adjust any in-line adjusters to the middle of their adjustment range while the cable is disconnected and I'd peel back the hood cover to double-check that the stop on the end of the cable is fully inserted.
In addition to what revchuck suggests, I'd adjust any in-line adjusters to the middle of their adjustment range while the cable is disconnected and I'd peel back the hood cover to double-check that the stop on the end of the cable is fully inserted.
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Anyone ever gone from their stock Praxis to a Shimano crankset and noticed better shifting?
I have a Specialized with stock standard Praxis Alba 48/32 crankset.
Tiagra 10spd shifter
Tiagra 10spd 11-32
Tiagra F and R derailleur
KMC 10 spd chain
I've seen all the youtube videos on front derailleur setup and already done it 3 times over the last 6 months and it still doesn't shift smoothly.
Its aligned parallel, 1mm from the biggest tooth on the big ring, the tension adjuster is already at max.
It shifts perfectly from 48 to 32, always, 100% of the time but its the shifting from 32 to 48 big ring that is a little annoying. It either can't shift up or it does. It never feels....'smooth'. It always leaves me wondering if it will shift.
I'm debating getting a Shimano 105 50/34 since my other components are all tiagra. Naturally I would have to get adapters or a Praxis BB to accommodate the shimano 24mm axles.
Suggestion?
I have a Specialized with stock standard Praxis Alba 48/32 crankset.
Tiagra 10spd shifter
Tiagra 10spd 11-32
Tiagra F and R derailleur
KMC 10 spd chain
I've seen all the youtube videos on front derailleur setup and already done it 3 times over the last 6 months and it still doesn't shift smoothly.
Its aligned parallel, 1mm from the biggest tooth on the big ring, the tension adjuster is already at max.
It shifts perfectly from 48 to 32, always, 100% of the time but its the shifting from 32 to 48 big ring that is a little annoying. It either can't shift up or it does. It never feels....'smooth'. It always leaves me wondering if it will shift.
I'm debating getting a Shimano 105 50/34 since my other components are all tiagra. Naturally I would have to get adapters or a Praxis BB to accommodate the shimano 24mm axles.
Suggestion?
Cheers,
Spencer
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Check the chain rings and make sure they are aligned correctly to the crank.
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I ran praxis on my Spec. Allez before getting the C1 chainring power meter. I have to say the Praxis stuff was really good I thought. I didn't have any issues with it at all. Mine shifted fine and didn't give me any issues.
Like stated already check your cable tension and also check the derailleur too. It might have an issue with full travel. I have seen that before too.
good luck.
Like stated already check your cable tension and also check the derailleur too. It might have an issue with full travel. I have seen that before too.
good luck.
#7
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I just swapped out the stock Alba crankset on my Diverge with some Ultegra 6800 cranks I had laying around and I defintely prefer the Ultegra. Maybe the Ultegra is just set up better but shifting is definitely smoother and I haven’t dropped the chain once which used to happen virtually every ride with the Praxis.
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I have a Praxis Zayante on a road bike I just built and love it. Shifts fine every time.
I love it because its a 5 arm and not the fuggo thick 4 arm shimano design.
beauty and performance
I love it because its a 5 arm and not the fuggo thick 4 arm shimano design.
beauty and performance
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We may have discussed this before, but I tried the C1 before getting a P2M and, unfortunately, it wouldn't clear my frame. That reminds me, though, that I have a 5600 crankset sitting in the closet. I should move that thing - it's perfect for someone that wants to run a C1.
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In general - Praxis shifting on their cranks has in my experience seemed to always run very smoothly. My son has been racing on one (Alba or Zyante - can't remember but the alloy one) for a while and I find the performance to be on par with what I have come to expect from Shimano. If ranking say front shifting - in my opinion - I would rank it as follows: Shimano, Praxis, Rotor, SRAM, FSA. FWIW
On your initial post though - definitely the tension isn't high enough or you have your limit cheated in too far. Forget about what you know and do the following:
1. put it into the big ring and the smallest cog - on the stand.
2. check to see if it's rubbing the outboard side of the FD cage.
3. If it is then see if you can use your hand like the cable and push down on the FD arm to see if you can move the cage any further out. If you can't then your limit is set too far in. If you can then your cable tension is too low. If you still have a ton of room to move it to the outside by hand then release the cable from the anchor, run the adjuster all the way in. pedal the crank to move the chain to the small ring, put it in the largest cog. Make sure the inner limit is set right then pull the cable as tight as you can by hand when tightening the anchor. Then put a couple of turns on the adjuster. See how it shifts.
the largest issue I see in front derail adjustments from those that don't do it daily or have a hard time dialing them in is
-Way too low cable tension
-Mounting the FD too high. Move it low enough that it JUST clears the teeth while pedaling and shifting. Youll be amazed at the improvement to shifting.
On your initial post though - definitely the tension isn't high enough or you have your limit cheated in too far. Forget about what you know and do the following:
1. put it into the big ring and the smallest cog - on the stand.
2. check to see if it's rubbing the outboard side of the FD cage.
3. If it is then see if you can use your hand like the cable and push down on the FD arm to see if you can move the cage any further out. If you can't then your limit is set too far in. If you can then your cable tension is too low. If you still have a ton of room to move it to the outside by hand then release the cable from the anchor, run the adjuster all the way in. pedal the crank to move the chain to the small ring, put it in the largest cog. Make sure the inner limit is set right then pull the cable as tight as you can by hand when tightening the anchor. Then put a couple of turns on the adjuster. See how it shifts.
the largest issue I see in front derail adjustments from those that don't do it daily or have a hard time dialing them in is
-Way too low cable tension
-Mounting the FD too high. Move it low enough that it JUST clears the teeth while pedaling and shifting. Youll be amazed at the improvement to shifting.
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