RobbieTunes

I forgot to tell you, everyone will want one......

tztag: that's a set of Wheels Mfg spacers on an 8-sp Shimano cassette. Works like a charm. I got my set from txvintage, and sort of paid them forward in the same way he treated me so well.

Folks, this used to be a "slow" thread. The bikes on it these days are wicked neat, and I'm glad to see all of them and be able to look at the builds. Thanks to you all for posting them.

buldogge

The classic Ritchey WCS bars are 26mm, e.g.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-RITCHEY...ht_2774wt_1149

I also like Deda 215 shallow, available in black and silver (polished, now).

Oldairhead 

1991 Sancineto. Just completed today, will do the maiden voyage tomorrow.



Campy Chorus 9 speed drive and Brakes. Veloce 9 speed shifters, Chorus Hubs w/Mavic Open Pros, VO Crankset, Post and Stem. Cinelli Bars and Cardiff seat. Panaracer Stradius 26c tires, VO bottle cages. 19.5 lbs with Columbus Aelle tubes.

Info on the Sancineto marque is hard to come by. Hope to post more details soon!

RobbieTunes

That's to the bone. Welcome to the forum. Nice opening!

Puget Pounder

Race machine built with campy and setup more for comfort with level bars and wider tires (relatively).

That's the ticket. Well done.

gomango

I request bigger and more pics of that beauty.

Please!

runningDoc

i'll try and force the issue:

dddd

I'm starting with page 90 of this thread, so maybe I'll find time later to see all the other Peugeot conversions.

I finished up this one today, and had time for a 1/2 hour shakedown ride. The crazy-steep angles (the name of a thread I just started) give an extremely rider-foreward stance, but I wasn't uncomfortable.

I'm running 8s Ergos (Veloce or Mirage) with a Shimano derailer that has the cable routed around a tabbed washer so as to lessen the derailer's actuation ratio, so it indexes a 5 or 6-speed freewheel perfectly.

10 hours of work and I haven't even begun to service the bb or cankset yet. EDIT: Up till 1:00am, and c'set/bb are done. And it sounds like your Sancineto (nicely done!) is going to have the same 2nd "birthday" as my ride. I'm going for another 40 or so mi. this AM.

Oldairhead 

"I request bigger and more pics of that beauty."

Ask and you shall receive (but I dont know how to do bigger)!

Lewis_Moon

Well, the '83 Paramount has gained some new parts.

gomango

Heh, thanks for posting the larger pics.

Looks like a very nice frame and you have built her up with quality pieces.

Wonder how she rides?

For larger pics, I just select the argent available size from my main Flickr account and insert in the URL box.

Then magic happens!

dwellman

Here's another Cannondale (1987 SR500)



Shimano 105 8 speed. 1055 shifters, brakes, and BB. Original 1050 derailleurs and crank that came with the bike originally. Hubs are RSX (because that's what I had lying around)
I'm nowhere near as happy with it as I'd thought I'd be. It doesn't shift well at all (horribly*) and I I wish I could get white hoods for those things, but they don't exist anymore-- not for the past decade at least.

* Should the ST-1055 lever work with the FD-1050 front derailleur and FC-1050 crank (Biopace)? Either something is bent or the shifter is broken or. . I can't figure this out. I've never worked with these components before.

RobbieTunes

Beautiful bike, and let's see if we can increase your happiness with it.

Theoretically, you should be OK except for the FD, which changed geometry from 6/7 to 8 sp.
The brakes are not a factor, so let's leave them out.

OK, let's look at what's doing the moving, as far as shifting.

1-1055 shifters are pulling x amount of cable per pull. That is set in stone. However, those shifters often allow you to feed cable when they are not "zero'd out" and this often leads to problems farther back on the bike. I'd pull the shift cables completely out, zero out the shifters, and re-feed. During the cable clamping and adjustment process, check the cables often, as you can bump them into a shift that messes up your adjustment.

2-Are you still using the 6 speed chain? That could easily be the whole problem. Get a decent $20 SRAM chain for 8-sp and then try it.

3-The crankset can handle it, but I'd first check the lineup on the BB.
Are the crankarms "in" as close as they would be with the older 1050 BB? If so, no problem. If not, you're adding angle to the chain line, and that affects shifting. You'd either want to go back to the 1050 BB to get the right spindle length, or get a 1055 BB, or buy a "generic" cartridge BB on sale at nashbar, Performance, Loose Screws, etc--but be sure to the the right spindle length.

4-The 1050 FD is going to rub a little based on a little different geometry. If it's a BB problem, this generates an FD problem, so I listed that first. I'd set it to minimize rub at times where you would rarely be on those rings/cogs, or get a 1055 FD.

5-Let's move to the rear. The 1050 RD will generally run the entire range of an 8-sp cassette, and a 7-sp cassette or freewheel. What are you running back there?

6-sp freewheel or cassette? then you need to go to at least 7-sp freewheel or cassette.

7-sp freewheel or cassette? then you need to make sure you adjust the RD for 7 and a dead shift.

8-sp cassette? then check the adjustment and it should be fine, or that's one of those rare 1050 RD's that won't travel that far. It could just be gunked up, or the chainline, or the chain. Make sure the adjustment is right on the outer cog, be it 7 or 8, and you should be fine.

Any other issues, simply ask. Smart people are here to help.

rccardr 

Nice list, Robbie. Pretty bike, too. Rear housing loop is a little too long- is it 4mm or 5mm housing? BB spindle should be the correct length, since 1050, 1055 and 6400 doubles all use the same size range (113-115 depending on the size of the chainstays). I have seen some '87/88 SR frames that do not like smaller 11/12 tooth cogs in the back on a 130 OLD wheel but do fine with a 13. In other words, this stuff is all fully compatible and should work perfectly well together.

You don't say how/where the shifting is horrible, but if it's out back I'd 1) go through Robbie's list, also 2) shorten that rear housing loop about 2 inches, and 3) make sure your RD hanger is aligned properly- they are often slightly bent, which is less critical on 6 speeds than 8. You also mention that it uses RSX hubs- if these wheels were relaced, I'd also 4) check the dish.

dwellman

Yes. The dish. The wheelset came to me on a different bike and I had to have two spokes replaced and when it came back, the dish was off by a bit more than a mm-- I took it back to the shop and they gave up. I ended up fixing it myself.

I think what I'll do is, shorten the loop, pop a known good wheel back there and see what happens. I had suspected that the RD and or "hanger" is not aligned right based on what happens when back pressure applied to crank.

Bottom Bracket is a UN-54 113 (same width of the original BB, which, in hindsight, I should have kept in, but I didn't know the condition until it was already out and lacking the tools to put it back in)
Chain is HG50 (new-ish)
Cassette is HG50 (12-25 8 speed) I hold out that the cassette could be more worn than appears but I was borrowing it on another bike for a few rides or so (SRAM PC-870, RD-4500, ST-2300) and it shifted beautifully.

rccardr 

Well then, it's probably a little hanger bending, a little adjustment, and nudge here and there. Unless you used 5mm cable housing for the entire bike and/or made the loops out of the STI's down to the cable stops on the DT too tight.

Can we assume the chain is the proper length (big/big plus 2 links)? Reason I ask is that most of my bikes don't have a vertical RD cage when in big/big like your picture. Note example below, where the drive train is in big/3rd from big. In big/big, that RD cage would be fully extended.

himespau 

Housing from the shifters does look a little short (at least the lines look awful tight) and the chain does look like it might be on the long side.

danilo

Very nice! I just bought my first road bike which is a Rossin, I plan to do a restoration to it, repaint etc. But I will be keeping the suicide shifters

I quite like your wheels and lacing.

blilrat

Is that your bike rccardr? You have a link sticking in your chain.

rccardr 

Yep, after the build, before the fix....

RobbieTunes

The more I look at it, the more I think it could be the chain floating a bit, on the back, especially when it flies around when back-spinning.
Probably a combo of RD hangar, chain length, and less than 1mm of adjustment. Definitely been there, done that, guilty of every count...

He's got FD rub, which is common with 7-sp FD's running off of 8-sp STI's.

That is just too pretty of a bike to sit still. I'd be out with the carbon cowboys struttin' that stuff, once it's right.

runningDoc

mstacle

Really. Really. Nice.

4Rings6Stars

RunningDoc - is that a threadless adapter, if so which one? It looks very clean!

IthaDan 

Looks like a full threadless setup to me. Not sure what he did, but a fork with a longer steerer from a larger frame can be cut below the threading and used threadless to meld period looks and modern function.