For the love of English 3 speeds...
09-20-23, 12:38 AM
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09-20-23, 12:21 PM
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09-20-23, 05:25 PM
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Rusty, but still a good deal, I think. I'd ride it.
Vintage Raleigh 3 speed bicycle. Has a brooks seat on it. No pedals.
vintage raleigh 3 speed bike $100 Lockport, IL
Facebook IL RaleighVintage Raleigh 3 speed bicycle. Has a brooks seat on it. No pedals.
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09-22-23, 04:33 PM
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Plastic pain
Treat the kid with a leather saddle. I know the sprung vinyl was issued but they are terrible and we're one of the reasons Raleigh went broke. They are simply awful and errant springs have ripped many a pretty dress.
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09-22-23, 04:52 PM
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I have this one and a light alloy seat post waiting in the wings. I will install them when she is ready to ride it.
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09-22-23, 05:13 PM
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Very nice
The.leather seat really make these bikes. The switch to vinyl really killed Raleigh bikes. Brooks still refuses to replace the leather and a new one doubles the price of these old bikes. People buy them for the seat and bin the bike.
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09-22-23, 06:52 PM
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I spotted a ping pong bell. See if you can get a Ding Dong King of the Road bell. They are fab and the kids love the sound they make.
09-22-23, 06:59 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Not your typical English 3-speed but definitely qualifies. $250 in NY.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...20403731163423
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...20403731163423
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09-23-23, 05:03 AM
Newbie
I got this the other day in a trade deal for an old balloon tire frame. I figured I was never going to do anything with an old rusty frame and a rideable bike is of more use to me than a bare frame which I had no correct parts for.
I'm guessing early 60's vintage, but its hard to tell since the rear hub is a Perry coaster brake not an AW.
Its got the oil port though on the bottom bracket and a brass headbadge on both the head tube and rear fender.
Its not much of a pic but it was dark out when I snapped this in the back corner of the garage.
Both tires say Dunlop made in England on them, so those are likely original. The bike rides and stops fine, although a bit small for me.
The paint is actually pretty decent, about 90% or so and both rims are dead true. The old, hard, John Bull brakes leave a bit to be desired though. They sort of have that vintage anti lock brake feel, giving the slight impression of slowing down when the need arises. They get better though with some heat and a few downhill grinding attempts to stop usually ending with some foot dragging and some wishing for a few more feet of road.
I'm guessing early 60's vintage, but its hard to tell since the rear hub is a Perry coaster brake not an AW.
Its got the oil port though on the bottom bracket and a brass headbadge on both the head tube and rear fender.
Its not much of a pic but it was dark out when I snapped this in the back corner of the garage.
Both tires say Dunlop made in England on them, so those are likely original. The bike rides and stops fine, although a bit small for me.
The paint is actually pretty decent, about 90% or so and both rims are dead true. The old, hard, John Bull brakes leave a bit to be desired though. They sort of have that vintage anti lock brake feel, giving the slight impression of slowing down when the need arises. They get better though with some heat and a few downhill grinding attempts to stop usually ending with some foot dragging and some wishing for a few more feet of road.
09-23-23, 06:41 AM
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missingspoke : you *know* we’re gonna need more pictures. I don’t get to see many Dunelts.
I have one bike with a Perry B100 coaster on it. Even with a new brake “pad” it stops as well as you describe! Problem with coasters is that if you try to do a Fred Flintstone with your feet you lose what little braking you had. 😎
I have one bike with a Perry B100 coaster on it. Even with a new brake “pad” it stops as well as you describe! Problem with coasters is that if you try to do a Fred Flintstone with your feet you lose what little braking you had. 😎
09-23-23, 11:17 AM
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I got this the other day in a trade deal for an old balloon tire frame. I figured I was never going to do anything with an old rusty frame and a rideable bike is of more use to me than a bare frame which I had no correct parts for.
I'm guessing early 60's vintage, but its hard to tell since the rear hub is a Perry coaster brake not an AW.
Its got the oil port though on the bottom bracket and a brass headbadge on both the head tube and rear fender.
Its not much of a pic but it was dark out when I snapped this in the back corner of the garage.
Both tires say Dunlop made in England on them, so those are likely original. The bike rides and stops fine, although a bit small for me.
The paint is actually pretty decent, about 90% or so and both rims are dead true. The old, hard, John Bull brakes leave a bit to be desired though. They sort of have that vintage anti lock brake feel, giving the slight impression of slowing down when the need arises. They get better though with some heat and a few downhill grinding attempts to stop usually ending with some foot dragging and some wishing for a few more feet of road.
I'm guessing early 60's vintage, but its hard to tell since the rear hub is a Perry coaster brake not an AW.
Its got the oil port though on the bottom bracket and a brass headbadge on both the head tube and rear fender.
Its not much of a pic but it was dark out when I snapped this in the back corner of the garage.
Both tires say Dunlop made in England on them, so those are likely original. The bike rides and stops fine, although a bit small for me.
The paint is actually pretty decent, about 90% or so and both rims are dead true. The old, hard, John Bull brakes leave a bit to be desired though. They sort of have that vintage anti lock brake feel, giving the slight impression of slowing down when the need arises. They get better though with some heat and a few downhill grinding attempts to stop usually ending with some foot dragging and some wishing for a few more feet of road.
09-23-23, 11:35 AM
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09-23-23, 06:25 PM
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With the exception of the mudguards, the Clubman is done.
Here's a few photos of the bike out in the alley. The first 7 images in this folder are of the completed bike.
https://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/
It looks like I knocked the brake housing clips a bit when moving the bike in and out of the house. I need to find one that really clamps to keep the housing against the top tube up by the stem.
It rides nicely, from the few laps I did up and down our alley. The weather is awful, so I'm not taking my "Sunday driver bike" out in it. It's definitely the lightest bike I own and quite responsive. I might have a chance to get out for a bit of a ride on Wednesday. I'm still waiting on a 19 tooth fixed cog. I set the chain length to the maximum amount of rearward axle location I could, so 16 teeth on the dual cog freewheel, which turns out to be perfect to locate the axle in the middle of the dropout for the 20 tooth cog.
In the photos, the front wheel is attached with the old French wingnuts, but I'm going to replace those with a set of Carlton track nuts. I just like the look of the wingnuts for photos, but don't want to rely upon them to keep the wheel in the dropout.
The Barelli pedals will be getting a set of GB stainless cages with white Christophe leather straps.
Later in the week, I may spray paint my mudguards white and the bike will be really done, ready for a nice long fall ride.
Here's a few photos of the bike out in the alley. The first 7 images in this folder are of the completed bike.
https://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/
It looks like I knocked the brake housing clips a bit when moving the bike in and out of the house. I need to find one that really clamps to keep the housing against the top tube up by the stem.
It rides nicely, from the few laps I did up and down our alley. The weather is awful, so I'm not taking my "Sunday driver bike" out in it. It's definitely the lightest bike I own and quite responsive. I might have a chance to get out for a bit of a ride on Wednesday. I'm still waiting on a 19 tooth fixed cog. I set the chain length to the maximum amount of rearward axle location I could, so 16 teeth on the dual cog freewheel, which turns out to be perfect to locate the axle in the middle of the dropout for the 20 tooth cog.
In the photos, the front wheel is attached with the old French wingnuts, but I'm going to replace those with a set of Carlton track nuts. I just like the look of the wingnuts for photos, but don't want to rely upon them to keep the wheel in the dropout.
The Barelli pedals will be getting a set of GB stainless cages with white Christophe leather straps.
Later in the week, I may spray paint my mudguards white and the bike will be really done, ready for a nice long fall ride.
Last edited by PhilFo; 09-23-23 at 08:10 PM.
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09-23-23, 08:13 PM
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That's Sturmey's response to the Shimano all-enclosed 'click box' 3-speed shift module. It just covers the exposed cable/indicator. They've been offering that option for, oh, I dunno, a decade and a half or so?
09-24-23, 06:54 AM
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PhilFo : maybe just me but I get a “server cannot be contacted” message for your photo link.
As to the wing nut decision, have you had a bad experience with them or just being cautious? I have several bikes with them and have not yet had an issue, though I am by no means a hard rider.
As to the wing nut decision, have you had a bad experience with them or just being cautious? I have several bikes with them and have not yet had an issue, though I am by no means a hard rider.
09-24-23, 10:00 AM
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Mark,
These are all aluminum wing nuts and I'd just be more comfortable with something made of steel that has a little more strength.
I just checked the host and the server is working.
Give this link a try:
https://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/
These are all aluminum wing nuts and I'd just be more comfortable with something made of steel that has a little more strength.
I just checked the host and the server is working.
Give this link a try:
https://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/
Last edited by PhilFo; 09-24-23 at 10:18 AM.
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09-24-23, 11:33 AM
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Mark,
These are all aluminum wing nuts and I'd just be more comfortable with something made of steel that has a little more strength.
I just checked the host and the server is working.
Give this link a try:
Rudge Aero Clubman
These are all aluminum wing nuts and I'd just be more comfortable with something made of steel that has a little more strength.
I just checked the host and the server is working.
Give this link a try:
Rudge Aero Clubman
09-24-23, 11:42 AM
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I’m getting that error, too, with both links.
09-24-23, 12:16 PM
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I don’t know what is happening but it seems like BF is somehow breaking the link.
09-24-23, 12:49 PM
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09-24-23, 12:55 PM
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Nlerner, thanks for the forensics and posting the pic!
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09-24-23, 02:37 PM
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So I finished putting the fat tubulars on my silver Mondonico and tuning the Campy 3 x 10, adjusting the saddle on my other Mondonico, opening the box on my newly repainted Woodrup Giro Touring and ogling the new paint!
More to the point I now have time to finish the front hub and wheel on my 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I think this hub has the special locknut setup where you can adjust the bearing play on the bike because the bearing/locknet on one side are firmly locked together, and the other are adjustable with a thin wrench. But, I have lost the secret on which side of the bike has the locked bearing and which one has the adjustable one. I know it's important because I don't want the cone to spontaneously seize up on me while I'm 10 minutes from arriving home after pedaling Lands' End to John O'Groats, (In my case this also involves pedaling the Atlantic Ocean), but ... does anyone know how the handedness of these front hubs (Raleigh Industries, original to this 1952 Rudge from Nottingham, all-steel, chromed, 32 spokes to match the 40 sp Sturmey rear hub, and 84 mm OLD!) has to be arranged in order for the magic bearing to work correctly? Sloan, Zinn, and Calvin Jones do not cover it, unfortunately.
Help?
More to the point I now have time to finish the front hub and wheel on my 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I think this hub has the special locknut setup where you can adjust the bearing play on the bike because the bearing/locknet on one side are firmly locked together, and the other are adjustable with a thin wrench. But, I have lost the secret on which side of the bike has the locked bearing and which one has the adjustable one. I know it's important because I don't want the cone to spontaneously seize up on me while I'm 10 minutes from arriving home after pedaling Lands' End to John O'Groats, (In my case this also involves pedaling the Atlantic Ocean), but ... does anyone know how the handedness of these front hubs (Raleigh Industries, original to this 1952 Rudge from Nottingham, all-steel, chromed, 32 spokes to match the 40 sp Sturmey rear hub, and 84 mm OLD!) has to be arranged in order for the magic bearing to work correctly? Sloan, Zinn, and Calvin Jones do not cover it, unfortunately.
Help?
Last edited by Road Fan; 09-26-23 at 06:48 PM.
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09-24-23, 04:00 PM
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1958 Raleigh Sports out for a ride a couple evenings ago.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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09-24-23, 04:56 PM
Banned.
So I finished putting the fat tubulars on my silver Mondonico and tuning the Campy 3 x 10, adjusting the saddle on my other Mondonico, opening the box on my newly repainted Woodrup Giro Touring and ogling the new paint!
More to the point I now have time to finish the front hub and wheel on my 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I think this hub has the special locknut setup where you can adjust the bearing play on the bike because the bearing/locknet on one side are firmly locked together, and the other are adjustable with a thin wrench. But, I have lost the secret on which side of the bike has the locked bearing and which one has the adjustable one. I know it's important because I don't want the cone to spontaneously seize upon me while I'm 10 minutes from arriving home after pedaling Lands' End to John O'Groats, but ... does anyone know how the handedness of these front hubs (Raleigh Industries, original to this 1952 Rudge from Nottingham, all-steel, chromed, 32 spokes to match the 40 sp Sturmey rear hub, and 84 mm OLD!) has to be arranged in order for the magic bearing to work correctly? Sloan, Zinn, and Calvin Jones do not cover it, unfortunately.
Help?
More to the point I now have time to finish the front hub and wheel on my 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I think this hub has the special locknut setup where you can adjust the bearing play on the bike because the bearing/locknet on one side are firmly locked together, and the other are adjustable with a thin wrench. But, I have lost the secret on which side of the bike has the locked bearing and which one has the adjustable one. I know it's important because I don't want the cone to spontaneously seize upon me while I'm 10 minutes from arriving home after pedaling Lands' End to John O'Groats, but ... does anyone know how the handedness of these front hubs (Raleigh Industries, original to this 1952 Rudge from Nottingham, all-steel, chromed, 32 spokes to match the 40 sp Sturmey rear hub, and 84 mm OLD!) has to be arranged in order for the magic bearing to work correctly? Sloan, Zinn, and Calvin Jones do not cover it, unfortunately.
Help?