jefnvk

I apologise if this topic has been covered before, I tried to do some searching, and while I have found plenty of "is this particular bike good for a beginner", I haven't found much on what to seek out when someone is out looking for a generally acceptable older road bike. If there is a good discussion on this particular topic I missed (or a better location for this), feel free to direct me to it!

Back story: I picked up biking again last year. After trying out various LBS near me, and them trying to route me into whatever $1000+ road bike they had on the floor, I gave up on purchasing a new bike and rebuilt (pretty thoroughly) my old Scott mountain bike as a bit more road oriented cycle. That got me through last summer to now, but at this point I am seeing some utility in finding something else. This was brought on by three specific issues I need to rectify:

1) My frame is a bit too small for me, 2) As the girlfriend is getting better are cycling, she is signing us up for more long (to me, 40+ mile) distance road rides, where the first point becomes problematic, and 3) The fact that I simply run out of gears on the road, esp with the 26" tires. This is my single biggest issue.

What I am looking for is advice on generic things to look for while out garage saleing/craigslisting. I have been watching the various ads the past two months or so. Mid-90's to later bikes (what I'd consider the best choice for my situation), aren't all that common, although not off my list if one does appear. I am more looking in the 80's range, although I don't have any problem going older. I'm trying to stick to a $250-300 budget, including any replacement parts it may need. Yes, I know I can go buy a brand new BD bike for that, the internet holds no appeal for this purchase.

Are there any particular manufacturers or models that have good value for that time period? Are there any that I will have difficulty finding parts for, and should stay away from? Any markings for tubing I should be looking for (and lets be realistic, I'm no pro that needs the lightest and greatest), or any particular drive parts that are known for longevity or being hard to replace? I'm mechanically inclined, there wasn't much that didn't come off or wasn't touched on my mountain bike during its rebuild (all the screws went back in their holes, and it shifts buttery smooth!), so having a warranty or a shop to fix a new bike isn't a concern.

I'm just interested in a general list I can follow that will get me a good value, decent bike for someone getting more serious about road biking. Prestige isn't a big thing to me, I don't expect a steal of a deal, I am looking for something rideable that I can use to get more in shape, and I'm more into buying a a solid older bike now, to ride for a year or two before dropping much more money when I know what I actually want in a bike.

EDIT: For reference, I am in the Metro Detroit area, an average older Schwinn in this area seemingly goes for low $100s, what would maybe be a step or two up from that worth looking for? Also for reference, I know my size, which is a 53ish

70Degrees

The older bike you get, the more difficult it can be to maintain and replace drivetrain components (which will happen with high mileage wear and tear). Within your budget, I don't see any reason to look for bikes more than 10 to 12 years old. Go onto eBay in the Cycling -> Bicycles category, and filter by type (road bike) and budget. You'll find that some some riders would advocate for a steel frame for ride quality, but I'd guess you'd prefer an aluminum frame for weight savings and better performance. You might want to focus on, or even filter results for, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, and Specialized. Those brands had pretty reputable entry level bikes during the time period and, as long as the mechanicals are in good condition, you can find a good value for a starter bike. Be aware, though, that you'll probably find components in need of repair or upgrading, so be realistic with your budget. You don't get what you don't pay for.

Good luck, and enjoy cycling!

Lazyass

The best deals are late 90's-early 2000's aluminum bikes with 105 or Ultegra. Nobody wants them. Buy one that's in mint condition and doesn't need all the consumables (chain, cables, tires, bar tape, ect) replaced and look real close for any small dents in the frame. Also check for rust on things like chainring bolts, brake caliper springs and allen bolts. There's a lot of bikes people buy brand new, they end up never getting into cycling, put hardly any miles on it and years later they decide to sell it.

bikemig 

There is no reason to avoid an older bike from the 80s because of difficulties in finding "drivetrain components." New drivetrain components work just fine on old bikes (there are long threads on C&V of "modernized" bikes) and old parts are readily available in a co-op or on the C&V sale forum. You probably want to avoid most French bikes unless you know what you are doing.

In your price range, I'd look for a double butted chrome moly frameset if buying steel, a forged (not swaged) crank, and decent quality alloy components.

You want to make sure the frame is straight (check for crinkled paint or any other sign of a crash) and that the wheels are reasonably true (you want to be able to true them).

There are some outstanding deals out there in older bikes if you are patient.

I'd post the bikes you are thinking about buying on the C&V valuation forum. You'll get a good idea of which bikes are good deals and which are dogs there.

upthywazzoo 

How comfortable are you with downtube shifting? If you aren't, then maybe avoid 80s bikes. If you are, your options widen quite considerably. Otherwise, +1 to what @Lazyass said.

Luis G.

I got me a 1993 Trek 2200 with 105's and STI shifters. I didn't feel comfortable with Downtube shfiters I also did not feel comfortable blowing $1000 on road cycling. I usually Mountain bike, so I didnt feel like dropping mad money on something I wasn't sure I would stick with.

Here's my experience:
Pros:
* Durability, quality is usually very high on older bikes. With 105 or better components.
* Great uniqueness and paint jobs- When I went on my first group ride, quite a few people kept checking my bike out. (has aluminum/carbon fiber bonded frame).
* Affordability Lets face it saving $500+ on a bike is great.
* Some of the older wheelsets are still years above entry level wheelsets. My old wheelsets made in the usa on my treck 2200 are noticeably lighter than ones from a new bike with low end or in-house wheelsets.

Cons
* Older gearing makes climbing a bit harder. Most front rings are 52/39~, while casettes are normal 12-25, 13-26 etc. Could need to change rings, crankset, or casettes to make climbing easier if you are not in the best shape.
* Finding low mileage bikes can be a challenge. Both mechanical wear and cosmetic wear can be a factor.
* Overhauling should be considered. If you can do the labor yourself, it's not a big deal. Otherwise set aside $40-$100 for mechanical repairs. On my Trek 2200 I just dropped $80 on new tires, and an tune up ($40 for tires, $40 for the tune up).

ramzilla

Look for something made in Japan between 1982 and 1988. They're all standard threaded so, you can still buy brand new parts for them. My favorite is the Centurion Ironman.

roccobike

IMHO, stay away from bikes with 27" wheels. As a rule these are low end bike. They don't handle as well as the 700C bikes and they're generally faster. There are exceptions, but not worth looking for.
Buy a Park chain check tool at an LBS. Check the chain on any prospective buy. If it exceeds the 0.75 go-no go check, understand that the bike will need a new chain, probably a new cassette. That's going to cost. If the chain fails the 0.50 but passes the 0.75, don't sweat it. Buy a new chain, but the rest of the drive chain can be checked by just riding the bike. When test riding the bike, go back an forth through the gears, if it doesn't shift correctly, that's a trip to the LBS and could be costly.
As for what models to buy, I like what Lazyass said. I'd try for one of the early brifter bikes. They're fairly low priced now, should be $300 or less unless its a really desirable model. Try to get one with a carbon fork if possible, the carbon forks absorb road shock and will help over longer rides.
Above all, do not buy a Wally World later model Schwinn or Denali or whatever else they were selling. Absolute heavy junk with really low end components that are very hard to keep in tune.

dim

+1

Miyata / Koga Miyata is another good one ... I used to have a Koga Miyata Road Champ ...