Retrospeed2000

I managed to get a retro Peugeot performance 300 on gumtree for £50 after taking it apart and cleaning it, new bar tape changing it from frame shift to bar shift the threaded headset won't seem to tighten properly I am pretty sure that this is due to the top nut of the headset has seized and won't crank down so I was wondering if anyone has any idea on where to get a new headset or how to fix this one as when descending a hill and the front end goes all over its not that fun. I can crank the Lower part down by hand that solves it for a bit but it eventually shakes loose. So If anyone can help with where to get a new one as the chrome has faded a bit anyway or how to fix this one it would be appreciated as I'm from a mtb/bmx background old headsets aren't what I'm good with.
Cheers any help is appreciated.

juvela

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Hello Retrospeed and welcome to the forum.

diagnosing -

are threads on steerer ok?

is locknut the correct thread for the steerer?

are threads in locknut in good condition?

is it possible an additional spacer/lockwasher is required?

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riding a road machine in jumps or down curbs or steps can damage wheels, fork blades, steerer and headset

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Retrospeed2000

Hi
The threads on the steerer are fine, the locknut is seized and slightly rounded but is the correct size as its from the original setup but I cant check the threads as its siezed on tight and don't worry I'm not trying to make road bike party 4 just uneven surfaces and cobbles seem to shake the front end loose. I also installed some mavic cyclo cross rims to give it a bit more strength in that area I mean it's not a carbon super bike so weight isn't an issue I'll upload pictures when I'm able to but the only problem is the headset

TenGrainBread 

Pictures would be good.

What kind of tool are you using to tighten the locknut?

Perhaps you need a spacer or two. Check if the locknut is threading fully onto the steerer and bottoming out before being able to put any compression on the bearing cover.

madpogue 

OP says the locknut is seized.

So just to clarify - you can turn the top bearing race, but not the locknut? Is there a washer in place between the top race and the locknut? So when you turn the top race clockwise (down), does a gap form above it? If so, and if there's a washer, where is the washer at that point? Is it stuck to the underside of the locknut, or stuck to the top of the top race, or can it be moved freely between them? If the washer is stuck to the underside of the locknut, it may just need to be nudged loose from it; that may be the only reason the locknut is seized.

You'll need to post at least eight more messages before you can post pics. Wander around to our other forums and introduce yourself, just to get your post count up.

randyjawa 

First and of immediate concern - riding your bike with an improperly set up fork is very dangerous. Second, the lock nut must perform its task. Sometimes, the tab washer, separating the lock nut from the adjustable cone, can slip and fool the mechanic into thinking that there is something wrong with the lock nut.

I am not sure if this article on vintage bicycle Head Set Rebuild will be helpful, but it might help shed some light on the subject.

juvela

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freeing seized locknut -

invert bike

dribble some penetrating oil in there

let it sit a bit

remove front wheel

remove front brake caliper

lockup fork at crown in a beefy bench vise with some cushioning

this will leave you both hands free for whatever tool you wish to use on the locknut


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3alarmer 

...here is a tool you can use to lock the fork ends in a vise, but you have to make it yourself.
Having one does make fiddling with stuck or difficult headsets easier, but you can use an old hub with a QR clamped in a vise the same way.

madpogue 

^^^^^ Ron Popeil hasn't sued yet? (Just look at those julienne fries....)