Connectors for SON Hubs and for B&M Luxos headlight?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Connectors for SON Hubs and for B&M Luxos headlight?
I'm looking for the female push-on connectors for the SON and the B&M Luxos headlamp. The brass one for the headlamp has spring and is not making good contact and I want some spares. I can make it work for a time by carefully compressing with a fine pliers, but it won't last a real long time. I'd really like to just make up a new lead to go up the fork leg, with new contacts. I found that seeming American equivalents are not good matches, also needing to have their shapes adjusted to make them fit.
Anybody have some or know of several sources? I could use 6 pieces of each.
I'd also like a source for Teflon or FEP-insulated hookup wire, if I actually make up new ones.
Anybody have some or know of several sources? I could use 6 pieces of each.
I'd also like a source for Teflon or FEP-insulated hookup wire, if I actually make up new ones.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,208
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3461 Post(s)
Liked 1,467 Times
in
1,144 Posts
I can't help with the hub connectors. I use the SP/Shimano connectors.
I think all the B&M lights use the same 2.8mm spade connectors, you probably just need to squeeze them a hair tighter to stay on. When mine have fallen off, I just squeezed them a hair tighter with a pliers.
I think all the B&M lights use the same 2.8mm spade connectors, you probably just need to squeeze them a hair tighter to stay on. When mine have fallen off, I just squeezed them a hair tighter with a pliers.
#3
Full Member
I'd avoid Teflon, since that wire is usually silver plated, which is generally worse than tin-plated copper in wet environments. I like M22759/16 ETFE insulated wire. I've gotten it from the Allied Wire and Cable "Bargain Bin" in the past, but it doesn't look like they have great options in there right now; they just have regular stock.
#4
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
At the hub, I recommend switching to the coax connectors. They are vastly superior to the terminal lug connectors
#5
I’m a little Surly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Near the district
Posts: 2,422
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, a Karate Monkey, a Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 699 Post(s)
Liked 1,294 Times
in
647 Posts
If at the hub I just buy the SON connectors which I'm sure Peter White will have
Likes For Germany_chris:
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Or do you mean the simple single-contact single-circuit banana connector?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2333 Post(s)
Liked 2,097 Times
in
1,314 Posts
#8
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
You can also get them from Peter J. White cycles
Likes For unterhausen:
#9
I’m a little Surly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Near the district
Posts: 2,422
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, a Karate Monkey, a Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 699 Post(s)
Liked 1,294 Times
in
647 Posts
I’ll send you a picture tonight when I get home. IMHO the coax is only useful if you pull the front wheel fairly often.
#10
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
I have too much experience fixing other people's SoN hub connections by the side of the road while I'm being eaten alive by mosquitos. It only takes one time forgetting to unplug the connectors while taking the wheel off before it's worth $30 to me. I know that price is a bit ridiculous, but having lights vs. not having lights doesn't really have a price. I used to bring a crimper to events for exactly this problem, because people would put their bike in their car with the wheels off and the wires ripped out of the connectors. I doubt that Schmidt would endorse this feature of their coaxial connectors, but it does work that way.
Likes For unterhausen:
#11
I’m a little Surly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Near the district
Posts: 2,422
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, a Karate Monkey, a Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 699 Post(s)
Liked 1,294 Times
in
647 Posts
One nice thing about the coax that I didn't think about until I was riding home is that if you run a wide body it's easier to to connect since you can put the spade end on then mount the wheel
Likes For Germany_chris:
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Thanks! I have so much experience with ham-fisted misuse of spade connectors and resulting breakage, that one of two remove/replace cycles with no likelihood of breakage will help me a lot, at least make me feel a lot better! How does the connector, in this case, the male, tehe plug, water-seal against the coax outer insulation? Or does it want a twisted pair? In my aerospace tooling I always used shielded twisted pairs. Water exposure was not a common problem, unlike on a road vehicle.
#13
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
You can get the coax wire from Peter White or other sources. It's a fairly normal coax cable except the inner wire is stranded. On edit: my memory failed me, I think it's just a two connector cable. Is it supernova that has a shield-like drain wire? Got to go look in my lighting supplies parts organizer.
You can see the innards of the connector on Peter White's page.
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sch-wiring.php
Here is what it looks like before construction and in a soldering fixture that they sell
You can see the innards of the connector on Peter White's page.
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sch-wiring.php
Here is what it looks like before construction and in a soldering fixture that they sell
Last edited by unterhausen; 05-24-23 at 08:38 AM.
#14
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
I think the biggest problem with water intrusion is that it might corrode together. It seems like this connector doesn't have so much surface area that would be an issue, and you probably should use dielectric grease to stop it from happening. It does have that rubber seal.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,376 Times
in
1,580 Posts
Thanks! I have so much experience with ham-fisted misuse of spade connectors and resulting breakage, that one of two remove/replace cycles with no likelihood of breakage will help me a lot, at least make me feel a lot better! How does the connector, in this case, the male, tehe plug, water-seal against the coax outer insulation? Or does it want a twisted pair? In my aerospace tooling I always used shielded twisted pairs. Water exposure was not a common problem, unlike on a road vehicle.
I've probably shared this in other threads too.
These are just basic pins and sockets from Amp (formerly Deutsch). I've got the Digi-key p/n's if anyone is curious.
They are high quality and nickel plated. Never had any issue with corrosion, even with frequent exposure to rain and snow.
Obviously, heatshrink tubing is used to insulate and serve as strain relief.
Steve in Peoria
Likes For steelbikeguy:
#16
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
Peter White shows a similar thing using the coax connectors, but I think the rationale in his case was he wanted a splitter. I have used the Supernova connectors and RC connectors in a similar manner as yours. The Supernova connectors got really hard to disconnect after a few years of not being disconnected. I probably didn't use any dielectric grease on them, which likely would have made it a lot easier.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,376 Times
in
1,580 Posts
Peter White shows a similar thing using the coax connectors, but I think the rationale in his case was he wanted a splitter. I have used the Supernova connectors and RC connectors in a similar manner as yours. The Supernova connectors got really hard to disconnect after a few years of not being disconnected. I probably didn't use any dielectric grease on them, which likely would have made it a lot easier.
I've thought about using a proper connector with a shell and two pins (or sockets) in it, partly because you can get connectors with environmental seals (such as the Deutsch/Amp models). Unfortunately, they tend to be much too bulky for this sort of application (imho, etc).
The nickel plated contacts have largely eliminated the need for a sealed connector shell, though.
I do like the idea of using common electrical connections, such as what RC cars use. They are a model of Molex, aren't they? Any chance that they are available with a higher grade of plating than the tin plated ones I've seen?
I haven't used dielectric grease on my SON connections, and haven't noticed any corrosion... but also haven't tried to take them off. Most greases tend to migrate or will get washed off, so I'm not sure how effective dielectric grease would be over the long term. Perhaps marine bearing grease would be a good choice??
Steve in Peoria
#18
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,503
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7349 Post(s)
Liked 2,474 Times
in
1,437 Posts
@steelbikeguy, I really like that. Can you please supply the part numbers? Thanks!
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
I imagine that a coax connector is simpler for a lot of folks.. if only because there's just one thing to hook up.
I've thought about using a proper connector with a shell and two pins (or sockets) in it, partly because you can get connectors with environmental seals (such as the Deutsch/Amp models). Unfortunately, they tend to be much too bulky for this sort of application (imho, etc).
The nickel plated contacts have largely eliminated the need for a sealed connector shell, though.
I do like the idea of using common electrical connections, such as what RC cars use. They are a model of Molex, aren't they? Any chance that they are available with a higher grade of plating than the tin plated ones I've seen?
I haven't used dielectric grease on my SON connections, and haven't noticed any corrosion... but also haven't tried to take them off. Most greases tend to migrate or will get washed off, so I'm not sure how effective dielectric grease would be over the long term. Perhaps marine bearing grease would be a good choice??
Steve in Peoria
I've thought about using a proper connector with a shell and two pins (or sockets) in it, partly because you can get connectors with environmental seals (such as the Deutsch/Amp models). Unfortunately, they tend to be much too bulky for this sort of application (imho, etc).
The nickel plated contacts have largely eliminated the need for a sealed connector shell, though.
I do like the idea of using common electrical connections, such as what RC cars use. They are a model of Molex, aren't they? Any chance that they are available with a higher grade of plating than the tin plated ones I've seen?
I haven't used dielectric grease on my SON connections, and haven't noticed any corrosion... but also haven't tried to take them off. Most greases tend to migrate or will get washed off, so I'm not sure how effective dielectric grease would be over the long term. Perhaps marine bearing grease would be a good choice??
Steve in Peoria
#20
I’m a little Surly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Near the district
Posts: 2,422
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, a Karate Monkey, a Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 699 Post(s)
Liked 1,294 Times
in
647 Posts
my own approach to adding a low-effort connection in series with the SON dynamo connectors:
I've probably shared this in other threads too.
These are just basic pins and sockets from Amp (formerly Deutsch). I've got the Digi-key p/n's if anyone is curious.
They are high quality and nickel plated. Never had any issue with corrosion, even with frequent exposure to rain and snow.
Obviously, heatshrink tubing is used to insulate and serve as strain relief.
Steve in Peoria
I've probably shared this in other threads too.
These are just basic pins and sockets from Amp (formerly Deutsch). I've got the Digi-key p/n's if anyone is curious.
They are high quality and nickel plated. Never had any issue with corrosion, even with frequent exposure to rain and snow.
Obviously, heatshrink tubing is used to insulate and serve as strain relief.
Steve in Peoria
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,376 Times
in
1,580 Posts
@steelbikeguy, I really like that. Can you please supply the part numbers? Thanks!
machined versions:
Amp p/n AT60-202-20141 machined pin, 20-22 gauge wire
Digi-key p/n 889-1462-ND
Amp p/n AT62-201-20141 machined socket, 20-22 gauge wire
Digi-key p/n 889-1471-ND
stamped versions:
Amp p/n AT60-16-0122 stamped pin, 16-18 gauge wire.
Digi-key p/n 889-1048-1-ND
Amp p/n AT62-16-0122 stamped pin, 16-18 gauge wire.
Digi-key p/n 89-1049-1-ND
The machined versions are a bit nicer in construction and finish, perhaps, but a bit more costly. Not a big deal in small quantities.
The stamped ones are made from flat sheets of metal, stamped out with a die and then formed to shape. To my knowledge, they function just as well.
Steve in Peoria
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,376 Times
in
1,580 Posts
Go back to where you used to work, look up your team's senior technician/technologist (maybe he's on LinkedIn), ask him/her what's the best goop for connector sealing, and use that. Or maybe I can find mine - he's on LinkedIn all the time! I haven't seen a Group for fabricating wiring harnesses for reliable electrical systems.
Of course, our machines were intended for a harsher environment than autos see (I hope), and we could charge a bit more (a lot more?) for the parts.
Steve in Peoria
#23
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
I went looking at Peter White's site and now I want a Supernova M99 DY pro
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,706
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 840 Post(s)
Liked 336 Times
in
251 Posts
Don't they have ultrathin springs, directed along the axis but spread over circumference, that bend in a most unfortunate moment, making the connector unusable?? In my memory I banned these from my bikes and turned to the straightforward spade 2.8mm ones that just work - primitive can be good on a bike.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,208
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3461 Post(s)
Liked 1,467 Times
in
1,144 Posts
That said, I use SP and Shimano hubs, not Son, so I have no experience with Son connection.