Going Clipless on a Vintage
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Going Clipless on a Vintage
I was thinking of switching my 1985 Torpado. I've been looking at a couple options, but had a couple questions before I started spending money all willy nilly.
Do I need to worry about spindle size at all? I'm really nervous to buy a set of pedals and find they aren't compatible with the crank arms.
Should I start with finding the pedals I like best, or finding a pair of shoes first? Then figure out the second to match the first? How have some of you done it?
I'm open to any advise or suggestions
Do I need to worry about spindle size at all? I'm really nervous to buy a set of pedals and find they aren't compatible with the crank arms.
Should I start with finding the pedals I like best, or finding a pair of shoes first? Then figure out the second to match the first? How have some of you done it?
I'm open to any advise or suggestions
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Hanna
almost all pedals for modern bikes are a standard size of 9/16 X 20. Unless you buy pedals for a child's bike, or some vintage French pedals (unlikely in clipless) you can be very confident that the clipless pedals you buy will fit.
I have ridden Shimano SPDs for years and really like them, in particular the "walkability" of the shoes and the "float" allowed by some of the cleats.
Be sure to grease the pedal threads when you install and remember - the left pedal is "Left hand threaded". "Righty loosey". Opposite of normal threads. Your shop will know this - but if you install yourself (it's easy if you have a pedal wrench) you'll want to know this.
good luck.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
almost all pedals for modern bikes are a standard size of 9/16 X 20. Unless you buy pedals for a child's bike, or some vintage French pedals (unlikely in clipless) you can be very confident that the clipless pedals you buy will fit.
I have ridden Shimano SPDs for years and really like them, in particular the "walkability" of the shoes and the "float" allowed by some of the cleats.
Be sure to grease the pedal threads when you install and remember - the left pedal is "Left hand threaded". "Righty loosey". Opposite of normal threads. Your shop will know this - but if you install yourself (it's easy if you have a pedal wrench) you'll want to know this.
good luck.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Last edited by mpetry912; 02-18-19 at 11:25 AM.
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Think first about what you do when you get off the bike. If you do a lot of walking around, then consider MTB style pedals and shoes. Most MTB style shoes have inset cleats that make it eays to walk around, even on wood or ceramic tile floors, with slipping or damaging the floor. That's what I use. Youcan also find a lot of shoelace style shoes that lace up, which looks a little more vintage-y.
Road cleats work great if you don't walk around much, you can also buy covers for the cleats. The shoes tend to be more modern looking, and the pedals are larger, so there's that.
Most bikes use a standard 9/16" pedal shaft, so unless you're dealing with a french bike or a BMX, you should be OK.
Road cleats work great if you don't walk around much, you can also buy covers for the cleats. The shoes tend to be more modern looking, and the pedals are larger, so there's that.
Most bikes use a standard 9/16" pedal shaft, so unless you're dealing with a french bike or a BMX, you should be OK.
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#4
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See if the crank arm are stamped 9/16. If not try out a pair of 9/16 pedals you already own (from another bike if you don't have loose). High quality used pedals typically sell for a tiny fraction of their original cost.
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I’ve been using Shimano A600 SPD Pedals on my old bikes for years (1980 Miyata Pro and 1985 Gazelle). They work great!
https://www.rei.com/product/131453/s...avement-pedals
https://www.rei.com/product/131453/s...avement-pedals
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Your bike crank in 1985 has 9/16" x 20 tpi pedal axle threads.
That same era, the clipless pedal was just being introduced and used by some of the pro's, using Look.
Suggest you start out with the Shimano PD-m324. Its a classic platform style on one side with chrome cage, the obverse with SPD.
Plenty of shoes in all styles are available, from conservative to race. The SPD has recessed cleats so walking in them is rather normal.
That same era, the clipless pedal was just being introduced and used by some of the pro's, using Look.
Suggest you start out with the Shimano PD-m324. Its a classic platform style on one side with chrome cage, the obverse with SPD.
Plenty of shoes in all styles are available, from conservative to race. The SPD has recessed cleats so walking in them is rather normal.
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Walking, looking almost normal, long cleat life = SPD and the A520 or A600 are great. A600 is my recommendation. Smaller, more “acute” pressure points.
Riding, performance underway, larger footprint, dorky off the bike = Look, Shimano SPD-SL, many others. I like Look Keo and Keo-compatibles. The Optigo Thrust 7 and 8 are my recommendation; lighter than Dura Ace and 1/4 the cost.
Riding, performance underway, larger footprint, dorky off the bike = Look, Shimano SPD-SL, many others. I like Look Keo and Keo-compatibles. The Optigo Thrust 7 and 8 are my recommendation; lighter than Dura Ace and 1/4 the cost.
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The Shimano M324 pedals work well and aren't too expensive new. Their advantage is that the other side is a standard cage so you don't have to wear SPD shoes to ride. They are fairly heavy.
The A600 pedals are very nice but pricier than the M324 - much lighter too.
Another SPD pedal you should consider is the Xpedo M-FORCE 3. They look good on classic bikes as they are silver, and they work very well. They're double sided, so you can clip in on either side of the pedal, might be a little easier than the M324 or the A600 as those only have one-sided SPD clips.
The A600 pedals are very nice but pricier than the M324 - much lighter too.
Another SPD pedal you should consider is the Xpedo M-FORCE 3. They look good on classic bikes as they are silver, and they work very well. They're double sided, so you can clip in on either side of the pedal, might be a little easier than the M324 or the A600 as those only have one-sided SPD clips.
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Last edited by speedevil; 02-18-19 at 01:09 PM.
#9
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Clipless pedals came out in 1985 more or less. Nothing at all inappropriate about swapping them in, especially since traditional slot cleated cycling shoes have not been available for many years.
I also vote for SPD type pedals. It is very convenient to be able to walk, and there really isn't a reason for a recreational cyclist to not use them.
+1 I really like the Xpedo M-Force 3 pedals. They are my favorites so far, and as you say they are silver and do look good on classic bikes. We shall see how they hold up. I liked the Ritchey Micro pedals too, until they broke.
FWIW, I had a lot of problems with A600 pedals making noises from rubbing on my shoes. It drove me pretty batty. Most people don't seem to have this issue. Must be me. I do tend to pull up fairly hard at times, coming from the era of big gears and slot cleats. The build quality of the pedals is very good and can't be faulted.
I also vote for SPD type pedals. It is very convenient to be able to walk, and there really isn't a reason for a recreational cyclist to not use them.
Another SPD pedal you should consider is the Xpedo M-FORCE 3. They look good on classic bikes as they are silver, and they work very well. They're double sided, so you can clip in on either side of the pedal, might be a little easier than the M324 or the A600 as those only have one-sided SPD clips.
FWIW, I had a lot of problems with A600 pedals making noises from rubbing on my shoes. It drove me pretty batty. Most people don't seem to have this issue. Must be me. I do tend to pull up fairly hard at times, coming from the era of big gears and slot cleats. The build quality of the pedals is very good and can't be faulted.
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If you've had problems with cleats creaking or squeaking - here's a free tweak !
every now and then, rub a bar of soap on the pedal "claw" mechanism that engages the cleats.
Easy, free and works great.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
every now and then, rub a bar of soap on the pedal "claw" mechanism that engages the cleats.
Easy, free and works great.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
#11
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You can have great luck looking for used stuff if you don't want to commit to the investment. I bought a pair of Shimano M-540 pedals for about $20 on eBay.
the biggest difficulty I had was with shoe sizing. EU sizes seemed to have different conversions to US depending on what chart I used .
the biggest difficulty I had was with shoe sizing. EU sizes seemed to have different conversions to US depending on what chart I used .
#12
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For pedals, it’s hard to beat spd for walking around, but if that’s unimportant, I really like the old Look or Look-licensed Shimano pedals that take Delta cleats. They are usually very inexpensive and the bearings never seem to wear out; and I have a slight preference for the larger platform + larger engagement + no metal to metal creakiness as with spd’s.
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Shop around for shoes that fit you well. There are lots of variations in fit to go along with our many foot shapes. Do you have an REI near you? They typically have a decent selection in-store and many more online, with a generous return policy.
https://www.rei.com/c/cycling-shoes
I prefer a shoe that lets me adjust it (ratcheting upper strap or Boa cord) while riding, since my last few pairs seemed to loosen on my low volume feet after wearing for 10-15 minutes. But my wife has been quite happy with her last few pairs with all Velcro closures and her latest with laces.
As others have mentioned, the SPD cleat pattern (2-bolt) is found on most walkable shoes. If you have a shop that sells used bike equipment, used SPD pedals are a great value. Check that the spindles turn smoothly. Used pedals probably won’t include the SPD cleats, put they are inexpensive. Just be sure to get the brand that matches the pedal. Shimano are most widely available, and their pedals seem to last forever.
https://www.rei.com/c/cycling-shoes
I prefer a shoe that lets me adjust it (ratcheting upper strap or Boa cord) while riding, since my last few pairs seemed to loosen on my low volume feet after wearing for 10-15 minutes. But my wife has been quite happy with her last few pairs with all Velcro closures and her latest with laces.
As others have mentioned, the SPD cleat pattern (2-bolt) is found on most walkable shoes. If you have a shop that sells used bike equipment, used SPD pedals are a great value. Check that the spindles turn smoothly. Used pedals probably won’t include the SPD cleats, put they are inexpensive. Just be sure to get the brand that matches the pedal. Shimano are most widely available, and their pedals seem to last forever.
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fwiw: use a legit pedal wrench
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I'm using a set of cheap Shimano SPD-SLs on my '71 Motobecane. It came to me with ruined toe clips. Never having ridden with toe clips anyway, I just took them off and rode it platform for a while. When I upgraded pedals on my Orbea I moved the old ones to the Moto. Just have the one pair of cleats.
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Raspberry's are a right of passage . The more you get the more you learn . I went back to cages , I'm to old for that stuff .
#18
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Or beeswax, a bit more waterproof.
For pedals, it’s hard to beat spd for walking around, but if that’s unimportant, I really like the old Look or Look-licensed Shimano pedals that take Delta cleats. They are usually very inexpensive and the bearings never seem to wear out; and I have a slight preference for the larger platform + larger engagement + no metal to metal creakiness as with spd’s.
I spray the Xpedos with LPS3 every few months, which I do to my Shimano SPD pedals as well. Boeshield is more or less the same kind of stuff. Spray wax in a can.
The Xpedo pedals use a slightly modified cleat. It is an interesting design with some extra surface area compared to a standard SPD, and it makes a very solid contact. It works very well and has been problem and creak free. They have a bit more float than Shimano, which took a bit of getting used to, but now I like it. Probably good for my knees, now that I'm no longer a spring chicken.
#19
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I'm not really that purist, but I can appreciate where you're coming from. FWIW I do still have traditional pedals on my actual vintage bikes. At this point they are mostly decorations. If they were my main riders, I would seriously consider bastardizing them with clipless. I spent my youth with slot cleats and straps, and I'm not that nostalgic about it. Pedals can always be switched back anyway.
At any rate, the OP's bike is a 1985 Torpado, and clipless pedals are totally appropriate. I spent half that year drilling peoples old school shoes to take Look pedal cleats, and various others types as well.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 02-18-19 at 03:29 PM.
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Oh wow, so much advise! Thanks everyone Great to know there shouldn't be any issues with crank/pedal compatibility. I did check the cranks - they say 9/16 on them. Finally I'll get some use out of the pedal wrench I bought years ago!
I had been looking at Shimano SPD. I really like the idea of the pedals that can be clipped on both sides. Something something easier to get in something something I'm clumsy and will probably have a hard time clipping in
My LBS has loads of shoe options, both MTB and road types, so I'll go in and try on a bunch. Honestly, little nervous about the shoe shopping part. I have a nasty scar on my right foots that makes most shoes pretty uncomfortable. I'm betting that hunting down a style of shoe that works with my scar is going to be the toughest part. The folks there are super nice though, so I have a good feeling!
I had been looking at Shimano SPD. I really like the idea of the pedals that can be clipped on both sides. Something something easier to get in something something I'm clumsy and will probably have a hard time clipping in
My LBS has loads of shoe options, both MTB and road types, so I'll go in and try on a bunch. Honestly, little nervous about the shoe shopping part. I have a nasty scar on my right foots that makes most shoes pretty uncomfortable. I'm betting that hunting down a style of shoe that works with my scar is going to be the toughest part. The folks there are super nice though, so I have a good feeling!
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OP,
Be sure to practice your unclipping....stopping/leaning before you set out on the roads...most critical to happy transition/riding.
Best, Ben
Be sure to practice your unclipping....stopping/leaning before you set out on the roads...most critical to happy transition/riding.
Best, Ben
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Using clipless is easy...but practise on a trainer, against a wall or hallway where you won't fall over. Loosen the adjustment to its weakest tension at the beginning. Shoes just need to be comfortable...the more expensive are lighter and have a different adjustment mechanism...Velcro works just fine.
Good luck...and practice putting both feet in and out...many times...:-)
Good luck...and practice putting both feet in and out...many times...:-)
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all right, last piece of advice for today : don't bust your knuckles removing those pedals ! we've all done it.
before you start, spray something (PB Blaster, WD40, I use Aero Kroil) into the pedal where it threads into the arm, front and back. Give it 15 minutes to soak in, give it a whack with your wood block or candy hammer.
then get set up. If you can get the bike in a stand that's the way to go. the pedal wrench is offset /clocked in a funny way. What I do is - on the drive side arm, get the wrench situated so you are pulling toward you to loosen the pedal - and then reach thru the frame and hold the other arm as counter pressure. Does this make sense ? Put on your gardening gloves to protect your hands.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
before you start, spray something (PB Blaster, WD40, I use Aero Kroil) into the pedal where it threads into the arm, front and back. Give it 15 minutes to soak in, give it a whack with your wood block or candy hammer.
then get set up. If you can get the bike in a stand that's the way to go. the pedal wrench is offset /clocked in a funny way. What I do is - on the drive side arm, get the wrench situated so you are pulling toward you to loosen the pedal - and then reach thru the frame and hold the other arm as counter pressure. Does this make sense ? Put on your gardening gloves to protect your hands.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Last edited by mpetry912; 02-18-19 at 06:02 PM.
#24
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Also, Shimano offers "S" and "M" cleats for their SPD pedals. That's "single release" and "multi release". Single release holds better, multi release releases better.
FWIW: I see a lot of "vintage" riders with Shimano SPD pedals on otherwise immaculate all-Nuovo-Record bikes. If it's what keeps you riding, do it.
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#25
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all right, last piece of advice for today : don't bust your knuckles removing those pedals ! we've all done it.
before you start, spray something (PB Blaster, WD40, I use Aero Kroil) into the pedal where it threads into the arm, front and back. Give it 15 minutes to soak in, give it a whack with your wood block or candy hammer.
then get set up. If you can get the bike in a stand that's the way to go. the pedal wrench is offset /clocked in a funny way. What I do is - on the drive side arm, get the wrench situated so you are pushing away from you and then reach thru the frame and hold the other arm as counter pressure. Does this make sense ? Put on your gardening gloves to protect your hands.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
before you start, spray something (PB Blaster, WD40, I use Aero Kroil) into the pedal where it threads into the arm, front and back. Give it 15 minutes to soak in, give it a whack with your wood block or candy hammer.
then get set up. If you can get the bike in a stand that's the way to go. the pedal wrench is offset /clocked in a funny way. What I do is - on the drive side arm, get the wrench situated so you are pushing away from you and then reach thru the frame and hold the other arm as counter pressure. Does this make sense ? Put on your gardening gloves to protect your hands.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
I took a chainring tooth to the knuckle a couple months ago. Perfectly slid in along the bone on he intermediate phalange. Left one hell of a scar, bled crazily.