I want aluminum tubulars. What's wrong with me?
#1
Farmer tan
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I want aluminum tubulars. What's wrong with me?
I want aluminum tubulars that will mount 28mm tires for safer descending on cracked up mountain descents. I'm concerned about a clincher blowout at high speed.
The bike is 10sp with rim brakes.
What would be a good build or off the shelf wheel to consider?
The bike is 10sp with rim brakes.
What would be a good build or off the shelf wheel to consider?
#2
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I'm going with HED C2's with CK45 hubs. Have a look at November wheels, they can build a nice set...
#3
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HED Belgium.
In general I think carbon is better suited to tubular than clincher, alloy suited to both.
Mercury had some - they don't sell them now, kid has 6 - great stuff.
The width is not an issue on the road. Running a few sets of Veloflex Vlaanderen on thinner rims (carbon - whatever).
#10
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#13
Farmer tan
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Another time, the front flatted but the tire stayed on the rim, and I was able to stay upright.
These were all low speed.
The situation I'd like to avoid is 40mph flat and not enough time to stop before the tire comes off.
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I am looking for aluminum tubular rims under 400grams, 32hole, asymmetrical rear rim, 21mm wide, eyelets.
Non are made.
Hed rim too wide IMO. Wide tubular rim not needed on road bike.
Close is the Mavic Reflex, now called Open Pro T.
Consider aluminum clincher tubeless rim with a tube. Tire bead locks onto rim pretty good, and tire may stay on rim long enough to stop the bike. (So I think)
I have the same concerns about tire coming off at speed on a downhill.
One time road Pines To Palms Highway ... we told some friends about the downhill speed, road really broken up and rough. The previous week couple other biker went down that and one had flat tire... lost a lot of skin.
Non are made.
Hed rim too wide IMO. Wide tubular rim not needed on road bike.
Close is the Mavic Reflex, now called Open Pro T.
Consider aluminum clincher tubeless rim with a tube. Tire bead locks onto rim pretty good, and tire may stay on rim long enough to stop the bike. (So I think)
I have the same concerns about tire coming off at speed on a downhill.
One time road Pines To Palms Highway ... we told some friends about the downhill speed, road really broken up and rough. The previous week couple other biker went down that and one had flat tire... lost a lot of skin.
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No, goathead and maybe glass. The tire deflated quickly enough that I didn't notice before the turn each time.
Another time, the front flatted but the tire stayed on the rim, and I was able to stay upright.
These were all low speed.
The situation I'd like to avoid is 40mph flat and not enough time to stop before the tire comes off.
Another time, the front flatted but the tire stayed on the rim, and I was able to stay upright.
These were all low speed.
The situation I'd like to avoid is 40mph flat and not enough time to stop before the tire comes off.
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No, goathead and maybe glass. The tire deflated quickly enough that I didn't notice before the turn each time.
Another time, the front flatted but the tire stayed on the rim, and I was able to stay upright.
These were all low speed.
The situation I'd like to avoid is 40mph flat and not enough time to stop before the tire comes off.
Another time, the front flatted but the tire stayed on the rim, and I was able to stay upright.
These were all low speed.
The situation I'd like to avoid is 40mph flat and not enough time to stop before the tire comes off.
With Stans/other sealant most tubulars can last the life of the tread.
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@FBinNY is selling a set of new Velocity Escape rims here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lar-black.html
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#19
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Over the span of 4 decades on tubulars, I've blown out 2. As in 100 psi to flat in 2 wheel revolutions.
But that required impacts with seriously large and spiky objects, such as fist-sized chunks of glass at warp speeds.
But the resulting ride out of this immediate deflation was far more manageable than it would have been on clinchers - a terrifying and basically hopeless challenge.
BTW: I've run 28mm cross tubulars on old-school narrow rims. No issues - there is more than enough glue contact area.
Yet another key advantage for tubulars: you don't need fat (heavy and less aero) rims to run wider tires
But that required impacts with seriously large and spiky objects, such as fist-sized chunks of glass at warp speeds.
But the resulting ride out of this immediate deflation was far more manageable than it would have been on clinchers - a terrifying and basically hopeless challenge.
BTW: I've run 28mm cross tubulars on old-school narrow rims. No issues - there is more than enough glue contact area.
Yet another key advantage for tubulars: you don't need fat (heavy and less aero) rims to run wider tires
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Do they have to be new production? I see NOS tubular rims and lightly-used wheelsets pass through the C&V for sale forum often, and they strike me as a bargain since most C&V-minded folks aren't interested in dealing with tubulars anymore, and most "modern" riders want carbon tubular rims or clinchers. In fact, I'm pretty sure there are plenty of members "holding" but aren't bothering to maintain "for sale" threads.
@FBinNY is selling a set of new Velocity Escape rims here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lar-black.html
@FBinNY is selling a set of new Velocity Escape rims here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lar-black.html
The OP should PM me if interested in seeing what I can offer.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#22
Farmer tan
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Do they have to be new production? I see NOS tubular rims and lightly-used wheelsets pass through the C&V for sale forum often, and they strike me as a bargain since most C&V-minded folks aren't interested in dealing with tubulars anymore, and most "modern" riders want carbon tubular rims or clinchers. In fact, I'm pretty sure there are plenty of members "holding" but aren't bothering to maintain "for sale" threads.
@FBinNY is selling a set of new Velocity Escape rims here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lar-black.html
@FBinNY is selling a set of new Velocity Escape rims here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lar-black.html
Over the span of 4 decades on tubulars, I've blown out 2. As in 100 psi to flat in 2 wheel revolutions.
But that required impacts with seriously large and spiky objects, such as fist-sized chunks of glass at warp speeds.
But the resulting ride out of this immediate deflation was far more manageable than it would have been on clinchers - a terrifying and basically hopeless challenge.
BTW: I've run 28mm cross tubulars on old-school narrow rims. No issues - there is more than enough glue contact area.
Yet another key advantage for tubulars: you don't need fat (heavy and less aero) rims to run wider tires
But that required impacts with seriously large and spiky objects, such as fist-sized chunks of glass at warp speeds.
But the resulting ride out of this immediate deflation was far more manageable than it would have been on clinchers - a terrifying and basically hopeless challenge.
BTW: I've run 28mm cross tubulars on old-school narrow rims. No issues - there is more than enough glue contact area.
Yet another key advantage for tubulars: you don't need fat (heavy and less aero) rims to run wider tires
If I can mount a tubbie that's equivalent to the 25mm clincher (that measures 27.5mm actual) on lighter but sufficiently strong wheels, that's great.
The thought of getting something second hand is enticing. I've noticed a few deals on ebay but I'm reluctant in case the brake track is thrashed or they've been abused.
I keep hearing about BF members with garage full of old alloy tubulars they apparently aren't using...
#23
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These are both really good points.
If I can mount a tubbie that's equivalent to the 25mm clincher (that measures 27.5mm actual) on lighter but sufficiently strong wheels, that's great.
The thought of getting something second hand is enticing. I've noticed a few deals on ebay but I'm reluctant in case the brake track is thrashed or they've been abused.
I keep hearing about BF members with garage full of old alloy tubulars they apparently aren't using...
If I can mount a tubbie that's equivalent to the 25mm clincher (that measures 27.5mm actual) on lighter but sufficiently strong wheels, that's great.
The thought of getting something second hand is enticing. I've noticed a few deals on ebay but I'm reluctant in case the brake track is thrashed or they've been abused.
I keep hearing about BF members with garage full of old alloy tubulars they apparently aren't using...
I got a great deal on some GL330s, about the same vintage as my bike. And I wouldn't mind a wider rim but my 27s fit on there just fine.
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I don't know about most, but I suspect that many are like me, and the retired wheels are from the spin on freewheel era, which is why they're retired. The quality cassette era wheels probably belong to folks like myself who are still using them.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.