Components
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Components
What parts make up the component groups on a bike. I read about this group being better or worse than that group, but I don't know what parts make up the groups. Also, how difficult is it to upgrade components, and is it possible to have a mixed group of components. Thanks for your responses.
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Shifters and derailleurs are the first items people look for when determining group. Crankset and cassette are considered next. Brakes, hubs, bottom bracket and headset are usually independent of the other components, but sometimes are the same make and model.
Components don't need to match. 10 speed Shimano are compatible regardless of Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra brand. Sram and Shimano can be mixed to some extent. Cranksets can be mixed and matched.
Components don't need to match. 10 speed Shimano are compatible regardless of Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra brand. Sram and Shimano can be mixed to some extent. Cranksets can be mixed and matched.
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 10-13-13 at 04:28 PM.
#3
Senior Member
What parts make up the component groups on a bike. I read about this group being better or worse than that group, but I don't know what parts make up the groups. Also, how difficult is it to upgrade components, and is it possible to have a mixed group of components. Thanks for your responses.
Shimano: Dura-Ace (Electronic option) -> Ultegra (Electronic option) -> 105 -> Tiagra -> Sora -> Claris
SRAM: Red -> Force -> Rival -> Apex
Campagnolo: Super Record (Electronic option) -> Record (Electronic option) -> Chorus -> Athena (Electronic option) -> Centaur -> Veloce
Depending on your budget you can easily spend a whole lot of money on components.
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From High to Low (price):
Shimano: Dura-Ace (Electronic option) -> Ultegra (Electronic option) -> 105 -> Tiagra -> Sora -> Claris
SRAM: Red -> Force -> Rival -> Apex
Campagnolo: Super Record (Electronic option) -> Record (Electronic option) -> Chorus -> Athena (Electronic option) -> Centaur -> Veloce
Depending on your budget you can easily spend a whole lot of money on components.
Shimano: Dura-Ace (Electronic option) -> Ultegra (Electronic option) -> 105 -> Tiagra -> Sora -> Claris
SRAM: Red -> Force -> Rival -> Apex
Campagnolo: Super Record (Electronic option) -> Record (Electronic option) -> Chorus -> Athena (Electronic option) -> Centaur -> Veloce
Depending on your budget you can easily spend a whole lot of money on components.
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I will add one warning. Some Dura Ace components are not compatible with others, so beware when playing with Dura Ace.
I have an older Fuji road bike. It has Cannondale brake calipers. Dura Ace bar end shifters. Shimano I have no clue brake levers. Shimano Deore mountain crankset with an LX front derailer. Ultegra 11-28 cassette and 105 medium cage rear derailure. All topped of with Mavic CXP22 rims laced to 105 hubs and a Dura Ace chain. All 9 speed components.
You can't get any more grouppo mixed than that. Oh yea it works just fine thank you very much.
Mark Shuman
I have an older Fuji road bike. It has Cannondale brake calipers. Dura Ace bar end shifters. Shimano I have no clue brake levers. Shimano Deore mountain crankset with an LX front derailer. Ultegra 11-28 cassette and 105 medium cage rear derailure. All topped of with Mavic CXP22 rims laced to 105 hubs and a Dura Ace chain. All 9 speed components.
You can't get any more grouppo mixed than that. Oh yea it works just fine thank you very much.
Mark Shuman
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Most of my bike are of mixed race. Since I'm a big guy, I like large cassettes in the rear mixed with my road bike front cranksets and derailleurs. So I end up with large 11-32t cassettes in the rear and long cage mountain bike derailleurs and road bike stuff up front.
The only real reasons to upgrade to stuff like Dura Ace is shaving grams off your bike so you can get a competitive edge and lose a thousandth or few off of your lap time.
Some dura ace components like Dura Ace cassettes wear a lot faster than say a 105 cassette due to materials used.
The only real reasons to upgrade to stuff like Dura Ace is shaving grams off your bike so you can get a competitive edge and lose a thousandth or few off of your lap time.
Some dura ace components like Dura Ace cassettes wear a lot faster than say a 105 cassette due to materials used.
#7
SuperGimp
When buying components, you can buy them individually (obviously) or you can buy a 5-piece or 8-piece group. 5 piece is usually shifters, cassette, chain and both derailleurs. 8 piece adds the brakes and crank, if I recall correctly. The 5 piece set is more of an upgrade kit, the 8 piece is more of a bike built kid.
The best prices I've seen are at ribble (in the UK).
What are you trying to accomplish? It's generally more expensive to upgrade piece meal but for the most part, items within a manufacturer's groups are interchangeable (as long as you match the speeds, with a few other notable exceptions when Shimano changed the brake pull or the rear hub splining for dura ace)
Also... cranks come in 30mm or 24mm spindle diameters and while you can use a 24mm spindle in a 30mm bottom bracket with an adapter, the reverse is not true.
The best prices I've seen are at ribble (in the UK).
What are you trying to accomplish? It's generally more expensive to upgrade piece meal but for the most part, items within a manufacturer's groups are interchangeable (as long as you match the speeds, with a few other notable exceptions when Shimano changed the brake pull or the rear hub splining for dura ace)
Also... cranks come in 30mm or 24mm spindle diameters and while you can use a 24mm spindle in a 30mm bottom bracket with an adapter, the reverse is not true.
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Shifters and derailleurs are the first items people look for when determining group. Crankset and cassette are considered next. Brakes, hubs, bottom bracket and headset are usually independent of the other components, but sometimes are the same make and model.
Components don't need to match. 10 speed Shimano are compatible regardless of Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra brand. Sram and Shimano can be mixed to some extent. Cranksets can be mixed and matched.
Components don't need to match. 10 speed Shimano are compatible regardless of Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra brand. Sram and Shimano can be mixed to some extent. Cranksets can be mixed and matched.
Sram X shifters and rear derailers will work together but won't work with other shifters. Sram front derailers will work with Shimano mountain bike shifters.
Finally, Shimano has changed the pull ratio on their road brakes. 2013 STI may not work with other brakes or with older Shimano components.
You have to be careful what you try and mix and match now. Stupid Shimano!
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#9
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I would add a some caveats. Shimano Dynasys shifters and derailers (mountain bike components) will only work within the Dynasys system. A Dynasys derailer will not work with Shimano STI road components. Shimano road front derailers will work with STI road shifters and Shimano mountain bike front derailers (old stock before 2012) will work with Shimano mountain bike shifters but Shimano road front derailers may not work with Shimano mountain shifters. Sometimes they can be made to work together but it's hit or miss. Dynasys doesn't work outside the platform.
Sram X shifters and rear derailers will work together but won't work with other shifters. Sram front derailers will work with Shimano mountain bike shifters.
Finally, Shimano has changed the pull ratio on their road brakes. 2013 STI may not work with other brakes or with older Shimano components.
You have to be careful what you try and mix and match now. Stupid Shimano!
Sram X shifters and rear derailers will work together but won't work with other shifters. Sram front derailers will work with Shimano mountain bike shifters.
Finally, Shimano has changed the pull ratio on their road brakes. 2013 STI may not work with other brakes or with older Shimano components.
You have to be careful what you try and mix and match now. Stupid Shimano!
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 10-15-13 at 10:18 AM.
#10
Full Member
I'm with TrojanHorse, it all depends on what you're trying to do. Can you provide more details on your current setup and what you're aiming at for improvements?
Regarding difficulty, a lot of it depends on your skills and tools. With the right amount of both, component swaps can often be easy, especially derailers, brakes and shifters. Cassettes/cranks/BBs/headsets can be more difficult because of specialized tools and/or torque specifications. Cantilever brakes can be finicky to adjust. If you don't already know, learn about cable housing for shift vs. brake. Get a good cable cutter. Taping handlebars just takes technique and practice (practice helps everything!). Visit the Park Tools website, there's a lot to learn there.
Regarding difficulty, a lot of it depends on your skills and tools. With the right amount of both, component swaps can often be easy, especially derailers, brakes and shifters. Cassettes/cranks/BBs/headsets can be more difficult because of specialized tools and/or torque specifications. Cantilever brakes can be finicky to adjust. If you don't already know, learn about cable housing for shift vs. brake. Get a good cable cutter. Taping handlebars just takes technique and practice (practice helps everything!). Visit the Park Tools website, there's a lot to learn there.
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I will add one warning. Some Dura Ace components are not compatible with others, so beware when playing with Dura Ace.
I have an older Fuji road bike. It has Cannondale brake calipers. Dura Ace bar end shifters. Shimano I have no clue brake levers. Shimano Deore mountain crankset with an LX front derailer. Ultegra 11-28 cassette and 105 medium cage rear derailure. All topped of with Mavic CXP22 rims laced to 105 hubs and a Dura Ace chain. All 9 speed components.
You can't get any more grouppo mixed than that. Oh yea it works just fine thank you very much.
Mark Shuman
I have an older Fuji road bike. It has Cannondale brake calipers. Dura Ace bar end shifters. Shimano I have no clue brake levers. Shimano Deore mountain crankset with an LX front derailer. Ultegra 11-28 cassette and 105 medium cage rear derailure. All topped of with Mavic CXP22 rims laced to 105 hubs and a Dura Ace chain. All 9 speed components.
You can't get any more grouppo mixed than that. Oh yea it works just fine thank you very much.
Mark Shuman
It should also be noted that Shimano and SRAM derailleurs have different pull ratios, so you cannot mix Shimano Shifters with SRAM derailleurs, and vice versa.
I also believe that Shimano road and mountain shifters use different pull ratios as well.
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My road bike was built up in 2010. I have Shimano Ultegra 10 speed shifters, brakes, front derailleur but a Sram XX 36 tooth cassette on the rear which I use with a Shimano XT (mountain bike) rear derailleur. If you look around you can pick up new "old" parts. My guy loves to build up bikes and spent alot of time scrouring bike shops and the internet for older model parts which are new to use. The 2013+ plus stuff across all brands is harder to mix and match. Now that 11 speed stuff is out and everyone wants the fancy electronic shifting, you can pick up old new parts for pennies on the dollar.
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#13
Banned
The parts pick, by the product manager, is part of the target price point for the whole bike,
once it is put together and ready to ride at the bike shop.
Predominantly the component parts ship in bulk to the factories that make bikes
under multiple brand names , for various importing distributors.
once it is put together and ready to ride at the bike shop.
Predominantly the component parts ship in bulk to the factories that make bikes
under multiple brand names , for various importing distributors.
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I'm not planning on doing anything for awhile. I just bought a Jamis Nova Sport. At some point, I think I would like to upgrade to 105 group and a carbon fiber fork (I realize the fork is not part of the components). The bike I was originally going to purchase was a leftover set up similar to this. Someone got it before I had the money. I love the bike I have, but wondering about what it would take to make this happen.
#15
SuperGimp
It might be cheaper to buy a bike with the components you want and either keep your Jamis for backup duty or sell it.
Your bike is a cross bike, so there may be some brake compatibility issues I'm missing too.
Having said that, I tend to alternately "upgrade" either the frame or the components... I haven't bought a new bike complete since 1992. Putting a new groupset on is not a daunting task, although it does require a few specialized tools.
Your bike is a cross bike, so there may be some brake compatibility issues I'm missing too.
Having said that, I tend to alternately "upgrade" either the frame or the components... I haven't bought a new bike complete since 1992. Putting a new groupset on is not a daunting task, although it does require a few specialized tools.