CigTech2

EB 700C is the name/model that I named it. The bike stated out in life as a road bike drop bars and all. But I wanted to build a ebike and thought what the heck. So bought a Ebikeling 700c 48v 1200w geared hub kit and started the build.

Ended up with a Ebike that will clime and take off with no problems at all.

Today makes its Maiden commute to work. The commute is 10.78 miles. But i took a wrong turn and had to back track for about 1 mile lol.

Start voltage 52.5v. Ending voltage 49.0v. On 4 12ah sla batteries. Lipo4s are on their way but couldn't wait for thtm so mounted 4 sla's.

Top speed 31.5, Avg speed 17.4. Total distance 11.71 miles. Not sure what it will do with lipo4's.

All in all i am calling this Ebike a success. Like the geared hub motor but the SW-900 lcd display still not showing speed when coasting and the motor is not activated. Which throws off the odometer. It is sensing the speed from the hall sensor built into the motor and I think that's why it doesn't register the speed when you cut the controller off. Looking for some where to buy the wheel magnet and coil pick up cable because it did not come with the kit. But that's okay I just use the MapMyRide app to track my speed and gps map.

2old

Nice looking conversion; keep us up to date on your progress.

CigTech2

ok a quick midnight ride home and here is the info. distance 8.7 miles. it's nice commuting at midnight, all the cagers are sleeping LOL. start voltage 52.5 ending voltage 49.3. max speed 24.6 mph avg 16.7. had the stop twice to adjust my headlight. at midnight I can come down the 6 lane 45 mph road that in the day time is full of cars doing 20mph LOL. I did cut the max amp limit back to 17 from 20 at work. I did notice the difference in power. Speed was about the same.

The charge at work took 4 hours and 10 minutes. started at 3:30 and at 7: 10 Looked and it was full.

All in all money well spent. But if any one can help me find that Wheel magnet and pick up coil cable for the speed sensor coif the SW-900 display I would be grateful. The display showed 7.7 miles and the GPS showed 8.7 miles. on the way to work the display showed 9.4 miles while the GPS showed 11.71miles. Really need the cable and cable.

2old

Check BMS Battery. If that doesn't work ask on pedelecs.co.uk.

CigTech2

Thanks found it on the BMS Battery site. it's under the e-bike kit and then under Central Motor section. their call it the King Meter Speed Sensor. and it's like $4.00. all ready order it.

PatrickGSR94

Lord, 4+ hours to charge it up 3.5 volts?

CigTech2

right now it's has SLA batteries so they are slow to recharge

CigTech2

One week in and all is good.

The batteries are slowly getting better range. The first commute i had 11.71 miles on a 3.5 volts drop on the batteries. That comes out to 3.34 miles per volt. today I had 10.71 miles on 2.9 volt drop. That comes to 3.69 miles per volt. Now as you may know that SLA batteries that are full charged are at 52.5 volts. and at 50% discharged they are at 48.4 volts. So 52.5 - 48.4 = 4.1 usable volts at 50% discharged. Now take you miles per volt and times that by the 4.1 volts. and you get the real world range of you E-Bike. I.E. 3.69 X 4.1 = 15.14 miles per charge. At least this is the way I look at it. Once you cycle your batteries about 20 times they will loosen up sort of speak, and you'll get a little better range out of them. Now these SLA batteries are just going to be used till the lipo4's get here. After that I will get better rang yet.

So today's ride to work was a hot one here in Texas. 97 deg and a ton of humidity. I made the ride 10.71 miles in 35 minutes. took 3 hours to recharge with this little fast scooters 48v 2.5AH charger. I hope the lipo4's will charge faster with their 4AH charger.

I did add a small power brick battery to charge the cell phone while I ride. So I can use my Map My Ride app with out killing my cell phone battery. Still need to finish the paint job. Other then that the bike is mostly finished.

When this motor dies in like 5 to 10 year (i hope) I'll have to try a mid drive setup on a fat tire bike.

SmugaDookz

great!

BiciMan

Good work and a very cool, attractive design, CT2. Do you have a final playing weight for it, and how much total weight is your production hauling at 31 mph?? Impressive any way you look at it. How about some close-ups?

CigTech2

The bike weights 70.8 lbs with the SLA batteries. The Batteries are 30 lbs alone. Once I get the Lipo's installed the bike will drop about 15 lbs or so and still have the same 12Ah. As for the load well I am not 147 lbs any more lol. right now i am 234 lbs. so the bike and me together is about 310lbs + the 5 or so lbs for tools and spear tubes I carry in case of flats and battery charger. The top speed I have on the bike is 33.5 mph going by the GPS while paddling hard. I used to race bikes.

CigTech2

Using the e-bike calculator here.Motor Simulator - Tools The bike will get 10 miles range with SLA batteries with out paddling. and with Liop's it will get 15 mile range with out paddling. So I am really looking forward to getting the Lipo's installed once i get them. My plain is to get two of the 48v 12ah batteries installed and doubling the range.

CigTech2

Been test different max amp setting and found out a few things. If I set the max amps to 20 amps then the batteries are DOA after the 11 miles home (below the 50% mark). But If I set the max amps to 17 amps I still have a little left in the batteries. And If I set them to 12 amps I will have quite a bit left in them.

I run SLA batteries for now, 48v 12 Ahr. At full charge they are 52.5 volts and at 50% they are at 48.4 volts. We all know not to take SLA Batteries below 50%. So at 20 amps max I'm at 47.9 volts after 11 miles ride (=A little past the 50% mark). But at 17 amps I'm at 49 volts and at 12 amps I'm at 49.6 volts after the same ride. With the max amps set to 17 I still get my top speed of 27+/- mph. But I give up a little power on take off and climbs. Now at 12 amp I give a little more with power and the top speed drops to 22 +/- mph.

Just found this to be interesting to me anyways lol

BiciMan

WOW, that is a load of pounds! You'll need every volt and amp and muscle you've got. Of course, with more commuting, you should be able to shed pounds from the heaviest "main engine". Your power/speed/range analyses are interesting, and you'll see gains as your weight drops. Somehow your strength is figuring into the speed calculations and changes. Enjoy and be careful at those high speeds.

CigTech2

Been messing with the amps again LOL.

I have a 26 amp controller and the sw-900 display. The SW-900 display can set the max amps from 1 to 20. But I noticed the watts where higher then they should be. No matter what i set the max amps to. It would limit the amps but not to the 1 to 20 amps setting. So I did the math and figured out that it's more of a percentage setting. For every amp I set the Display to it's 1.3 amps to the controller. So 5 amps setting = 6.5 amps, 10 amps setting = 13 amps, 15 amp setting = 19.5 amps and 20amp setting = 26 amps. The display shows watts and that's how I noticed that the amps where high then the set amps. If that makes any scenes. The ranges also coincide with these calculations. So if you have a higher then 20 amp controller you can still use the SW-900 display to set the max amps. You'll just need to do the math if you want to set the max amps to a set number.

And yes the bike will run at 5 amp setting at 17.4 mph not peddling. I only tried it on a flat road. I didn't think it would LOL.

CigTech2

Got the Lifepo4 battery in. Man it's like night and day between SLA and Lifepo4 batteries.

SLA batteries have a much bigger voltage drop than the Lifepo4 do. I bought the SunThing lifepo4 battery off Ebay. It's a 48v 12ah battery that charge to 58v and has a 36v low volt cutoff. They did say it was for a 500 watt motor because of the BMS Limits. A 500 watt motor at 48v pulls 10.4 amps. So I set the max amps at 7 amps to start testing. The battery held that just fine then moved up to 8 then 9 amps and 10 amps. The battery handle the 10 amps with out a problem.

The top speed was 25.4 mph without paddling. With the SLA batteries the top speed was 21.8 mph at 10 amps max. The power take off is so much higher with the Lifepo4 battery. The bike was 71 LBS with the SLA batteries and is now 55.3 LBS. So the bike feels more like a bike, than a rock with wheels. I will never use SLA batteries again. Planing on get a second battery to extend the range from 22 miles to 44 miles with out peddling at top speed.

dilkes

Is that an ebike or a canoe? (lol)

CigTech2

LOL no one said I could spell LOL

Roytoy

Wow that's a sweet bike.

CigTech2

Been riding to work with the new Lifepo4 battery and noticed that with the Lifepo4 battery my Avg speed went up from 17 mph to 20 mph. Also notice that the bike is still showing a full charge after the 8,5 miles ride to work. Even at full throttle the voltage drop did not start showing till I had 5.5 miles into the ride on the battery status indicator. With The SLA Batteries I would see a voltage drop at 2.5 miles when at full throttle.

The Lifepo4 battery at full charge are 58 volts and after the 8.5 mile ride to work it is at 52 volts. The SLA batteries at full charge is 52.5 volts and after the 8.5 miles they are at 49 volts. SLA batteries are at 50% charge at 48.8 volts. The SLA batteries would show 2 to 3 bars down on the display (out of 5 bars). And at full throttle with the SLA batteries after the ride it voltage drop would make the battery drop to 1 bar. But with the Lifepo4 battery the most I seen the Battery status drop down was 2 bars. I could make it home with the Lifepo4 battery without a recharging. The SLA batteries would not make it both to work and back. Both batteries are 12 Ah. So I am very happy with the Lifepo4 battery.

I will rebuild my battery box to fit the size of the 2 lifeop4 12 ah batteries. Thinking of getting a second Lifepo4 battery. So I will have 24ah of range. And I will have enough room to install the charge too. The SLA batteries took up the whole battery box. So now I have room to improve the battery box and make the bike lighter.

This is the display after riding to work today. Enjoy

Rick Imby

Lots of great information.

If it had been me with the weight of your bike, electrics and you, I would definitely have gone with a mountain bike frame.

I would not ride 30+ mph on that bike with that much weight and ---I want Disc brakes. At least put one on the front---please?? Any slight splash of water on those rims with that weight and you will be all the way to work before you start slowing down.

Awsome info on your battery testing.

Clean your bicycle a lot and please look for cracks ---especially on the fork and rims---every week. Your seatpost also looks to have a big load too.

Watch the sidewalls on those rims if you are stopping much---they will wear down fast with your weight---there is probably a wear mark on the rims.

The bike you have was not built to handle the load, the dual power system (e motor and you). Be careful my friend.

chas58

I find lifepo4 a bit heavy, but they do tend to be a little more powerful than other batteries of similar rating (58 volts like you stated), and those should not have the voltage sag. They do have the cool feature of having full power even when they are almost empty (unlike other lithium batteries) - the only disadvantage is they quit rather suddenly.

you don't have LiPo batteries, that is a different animal all together (you had me worried there for a little bit).

Disk brakes are not any stronger than rim brakes. For that matter disk brakes are often 180mm in diameter, while rim brakes are basically disk brakes with 622mm diameter. LOL.

Rick Imby

It is obvious you have never used disc brakes. It is better to not speak of something you obviously know nothing about than to show your ignorance. They are hugely more effective and that is before you talk about riding in wet weather.

chas58

Rick, you are funny.

Sorry to hear that you have not ridden decent rim brakes.