Gunnar Hyper-XX anyone?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Gunnar Hyper-XX anyone?
Gunnar has expanded the Hyper line from the -X to the -XX and -XC. I am looking at the -XX for a couple reasons. Has S-bend chainstays that the caption says " increase tire clearance (to 55mm between the stays) as well as heel clearance", and the interchangeable rear frame ends for Q/R or thru-axle (though proprietary bits are also a bit of a potential downside). I'd likely do a custom fork, reducing axle-crown from design-spec of 395mm to 385, to lower the bb from 70mm drop to 74-ish drop, steepen head angle a tad (from 72.5 on the 54cm, haven't done the trig yet), and 65-ish rake for low trail. Also thinking three wheelsets - 559-51, 684-42 and 622-28 for flexibility.
Hyper-XX
Tom
Hyper-XX
Tom
#2
Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 46
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not sure why the Gunnar Hyper-XX doesn't get more love... maybe lack of a marketing budget?
Changing wheelsets (and tires) will give a ton of flexibility and make for a solid "do anything" bike. It will take a 29er wheel with a 2.0 tire if you're riding really loose stuff, but 700c with +/- 40mm seems to hit a good spot for reducing weight to take on hills/accelerations and float (and I know they're the same diameter, just sayin').
Steel frames are never as light as carbon or alloy or Ti but a 21-pound build is not hard on this frame. Even going with 105/5800 Hydro should still keep it in the lower 20s.
I'd personally look at a Whisky fork. I've got several buddies riding them hard with good results. The headtube will take a tapered headset. If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
Changing wheelsets (and tires) will give a ton of flexibility and make for a solid "do anything" bike. It will take a 29er wheel with a 2.0 tire if you're riding really loose stuff, but 700c with +/- 40mm seems to hit a good spot for reducing weight to take on hills/accelerations and float (and I know they're the same diameter, just sayin').
Steel frames are never as light as carbon or alloy or Ti but a 21-pound build is not hard on this frame. Even going with 105/5800 Hydro should still keep it in the lower 20s.
I'd personally look at a Whisky fork. I've got several buddies riding them hard with good results. The headtube will take a tapered headset. If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
#3
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 3
Bikes: Trek 7300FX 2004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There is a very nice review at GravelCyclist. I can't post URL's yet as a new user, but a search on their site for Gunnar will bring it up.
#4
Senior Member
Not sure why the Gunnar Hyper-XX doesn't get more love... maybe lack of a marketing budget?
Changing wheelsets (and tires) will give a ton of flexibility and make for a solid "do anything" bike. It will take a 29er wheel with a 2.0 tire if you're riding really loose stuff, but 700c with +/- 40mm seems to hit a good spot for reducing weight to take on hills/accelerations and float (and I know they're the same diameter, just sayin').
Steel frames are never as light as carbon or alloy or Ti but a 21-pound build is not hard on this frame. Even going with 105/5800 Hydro should still keep it in the lower 20s.
I'd personally look at a Whisky fork. I've got several buddies riding them hard with good results. The headtube will take a tapered headset. If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
Changing wheelsets (and tires) will give a ton of flexibility and make for a solid "do anything" bike. It will take a 29er wheel with a 2.0 tire if you're riding really loose stuff, but 700c with +/- 40mm seems to hit a good spot for reducing weight to take on hills/accelerations and float (and I know they're the same diameter, just sayin').
Steel frames are never as light as carbon or alloy or Ti but a 21-pound build is not hard on this frame. Even going with 105/5800 Hydro should still keep it in the lower 20s.
I'd personally look at a Whisky fork. I've got several buddies riding them hard with good results. The headtube will take a tapered headset. If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
#5
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 118
Bikes: Kona Big Unit Single Speed, Kona Private Jake Single Speed, Jamis Renegade Elite
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Depends on the frame. I had a steel frame that was 6.5 pounds. Rode awesome but heavy. My current aluminum bike frame is just a tiny bit over 4 pounds. So that's a 2+ pound difference. Whether it matters to you is one thing...but there can be quite a difference. For some 2+ pounds is a huge deal. I weigh too much for it to really matter much.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 68
Bikes: 2016 Gunnar Roadie, 2010 Cannondale RZ140 4, 2014 Raleigh Tamland 1.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The Hyper-XX has really piqued my interest as well. I currently have an older Tamland which is QR front and rear, and eventually I will be looking for a lighter weight gravel frame with thru-axle compatibility. The Hyper-XX is currently at the top of my list.
As regards the weight of steel frames, I also own a Gunnar Roadie in 56cm and the frame is ~3.8 lbs. It all comes down to which frames you are comparing. A decent carbon frame and a "high end" steel frame like a Gunnar, with the cost for both being the same at ~$1200, you're really only looking at 1-2 lbs difference. Even with higher end carbon frames you're paying a lot more for a different carbon layup but not a significant weight savings.
As regards the weight of steel frames, I also own a Gunnar Roadie in 56cm and the frame is ~3.8 lbs. It all comes down to which frames you are comparing. A decent carbon frame and a "high end" steel frame like a Gunnar, with the cost for both being the same at ~$1200, you're really only looking at 1-2 lbs difference. Even with higher end carbon frames you're paying a lot more for a different carbon layup but not a significant weight savings.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
...
If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
If you reduce axle-crown you lose some of the choice for a larger front tire. You might have the width but not the height under the crown.
You'll prolly get a different BB drop depending on tires/wheels. Not sure I'd overthink it. I've had bikes from 67 to 80mm drop. Lower gives more stability but unless you're regularly descending at 45+ mph I don't know think you'll have a problem at 70.
Would be great to hear what you decided, or if you went in a different direction.
Not too concerned about larger 700 tire sizes - for fatter, I'm going 584 or 559 rim size. And I do like 75mm BB drop, which 10mm shorter a-c should about accomplish.
OP Tom
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Resurrecting this thread to post my new Hyper-XX. Steel grey metallic paint with reflective logos which for some reason my phone's flash turned yellowish in these photos. Whiskey #9, Ultegra R8020, Roval CLX32. Weighed in at 22.3lbs as pictured with fenders (sans lights and seat bag). Really happy with it so far!
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Couple ??s @twinsies - What headset are you using? And bottle cages are King stainless, yes?
And a comment - I see flat-mount caliper on fork and post- on chainstay. Paragon Machine Works has apparently introduced a flat-mount/12mm thru-axle insert for the chainstay should you want to match the calipers.
And a comment - I see flat-mount caliper on fork and post- on chainstay. Paragon Machine Works has apparently introduced a flat-mount/12mm thru-axle insert for the chainstay should you want to match the calipers.
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Couple ??s @twinsies - What headset are you using? And bottle cages are King stainless, yes?
And a comment - I see flat-mount caliper on fork and post- on chainstay. Paragon Machine Works has apparently introduced a flat-mount/12mm thru-axle insert for the chainstay should you want to match the calipers.
And a comment - I see flat-mount caliper on fork and post- on chainstay. Paragon Machine Works has apparently introduced a flat-mount/12mm thru-axle insert for the chainstay should you want to match the calipers.
I did not know the Paragon product existed, thanks for that. Is there a performance reason for that part or is it just a match/visual kind of thing? From what I've read there's no performance differences between post- and flat-mount.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
No particular performance reason, mostly because brakes are typically sold in matching sets. Takes some effort to get one flat-mount, one post.
Flat-mount does limit one to 160mm rotors, though typically one wouldn't use larger rear than front rotor.
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...hlight=paragon
Flat-mount does limit one to 160mm rotors, though typically one wouldn't use larger rear than front rotor.
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...hlight=paragon
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 108
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Resurrecting this thread to post my new Hyper-XX. Steel grey metallic paint with reflective logos which for some reason my phone's flash turned yellowish in these photos. Whiskey #9 , Ultegra R8020, Roval CLX32. Weighed in at 22.3lbs as pictured with fenders (sans lights and seat bag). Really happy with it so far!
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#22
Senior Member
Resurrecting this thread to post my new Hyper-XX. Steel grey metallic paint with reflective logos which for some reason my phone's flash turned yellowish in these photos. Whiskey #9 , Ultegra R8020, Roval CLX32. Weighed in at 22.3lbs as pictured with fenders (sans lights and seat bag). Really happy with it so far!
Also, would it be hard to get a bike like this down to closer to 20 pounds?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FordTrax
Road Cycling
45
08-16-20 05:43 PM
XXLHardrock
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
0
10-12-14 03:14 PM
meaculpa
Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling
15
06-29-14 06:59 PM
guadzilla
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
17
04-26-10 07:34 PM