Stuck Axle Nut on rear....outside hexagon starting to strip! help?
#1
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Stuck Axle Nut on rear....outside hexagon starting to strip! help?
hello!
i posted this in the mechanics forum, but thought i would post here too...
i did a cursory search and didn' t really see anything....hopefully someone can help....sorry in advance if this is covered somewhere and i suck at searching lol....
anyway,
i have a singlespeed rear hub on a track frame.
was going to remove the back wheel, but ran into a problem:
when trying to remove the two axle nuts with my 2 15mm wrenches, one axle nut came off fine, but the other is seriously stuck.
after a little wd40 and trying to muscle it off, i notice the outside hexagon of the axle nut is starting to get stripped and rounded! i of course stopped immediately, but im having the hardest time trying to figure out how to remove it without further stripping the outside.
anyone have any advice? it would be greatly appreciated!
i posted this in the mechanics forum, but thought i would post here too...
i did a cursory search and didn' t really see anything....hopefully someone can help....sorry in advance if this is covered somewhere and i suck at searching lol....
anyway,
i have a singlespeed rear hub on a track frame.
was going to remove the back wheel, but ran into a problem:
when trying to remove the two axle nuts with my 2 15mm wrenches, one axle nut came off fine, but the other is seriously stuck.
after a little wd40 and trying to muscle it off, i notice the outside hexagon of the axle nut is starting to get stripped and rounded! i of course stopped immediately, but im having the hardest time trying to figure out how to remove it without further stripping the outside.
anyone have any advice? it would be greatly appreciated!
#3
Your cog is slipping.
Legit. Crank that thing off with some vice grips and replace it. Be sure to grease your threads when putting the new one on.
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And always remember, "righty tighty, lefty loosey" !
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well, its off!!!
Yes scrod, i believe in my excitement of getting my new wheelset in the mail i accidentally forgot to grease the threads when i got too eager beaver to put it on the frame....lesson learned!
what ended up working for me was this: (in case this happens to other newbs like me)
1) got some PB blaster....basically liquid wrench. applied liberally. waited a few minutes.
2) didn't use vice grips, but used a 15 mm hex wrench....as opposed to the park tool 15 mm wrench that is only two prongs...
This....
instead of this...
the later was just digging into the outside hexagon and rounding the edges.
anywho, thanks for the responses! case closed lol
Yes scrod, i believe in my excitement of getting my new wheelset in the mail i accidentally forgot to grease the threads when i got too eager beaver to put it on the frame....lesson learned!
what ended up working for me was this: (in case this happens to other newbs like me)
1) got some PB blaster....basically liquid wrench. applied liberally. waited a few minutes.
2) didn't use vice grips, but used a 15 mm hex wrench....as opposed to the park tool 15 mm wrench that is only two prongs...
This....
instead of this...
the later was just digging into the outside hexagon and rounding the edges.
anywho, thanks for the responses! case closed lol
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FYI, it's called a "peanut butter wrench," and is very popular among us trackies. I can also be used to remove a 15mm hex head crank arm bolt.
Also, that Park wrench looks like it is better suited as a rear hub cone wrench.
Also, that Park wrench looks like it is better suited as a rear hub cone wrench.
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It is a cone wrench: https://www.parktool.com/products/det...17&item=SCW-15
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Closed end wrenches are definitely better, because the open end flexes and as you indicated rounds the edges of the nut. There used to be a socket tool that claimed to be superior for this ?
https://www.campingworld.com/shopping...cket-set/37328
I use a 15 mm socket on a ratchet wrench.
https://www.campingworld.com/shopping...cket-set/37328
I use a 15 mm socket on a ratchet wrench.
#11
Your cog is slipping.
Yeah, man...don't use cone wrenches for axle nuts, pedals, etc. You'll just end up wrecking the wrench and whatever you're trying to put on/take off.
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well, this hub is a coaster brake hub....and the nut closest to the cog is round with two flat areas (sorry ignorant on the name) so the 2 prong wrench is needed for that....
but i will agree, the closed end wrench is definitely my preference (peanut butter?) for the axle nuts from now on.....although the 2 prong (again ignorant on name) wrenches should be fine as long as the threads are greased...
speaking of coaster brake hubs, because i had the back wheel off i decided to open it up and check out the bearings.....there was like, minimal grease in the bearings!!!! wtf??? added some phil wood grease and it feels soooooo much nicer.....anywho, once again thanks peeps for the help.
but i will agree, the closed end wrench is definitely my preference (peanut butter?) for the axle nuts from now on.....although the 2 prong (again ignorant on name) wrenches should be fine as long as the threads are greased...
speaking of coaster brake hubs, because i had the back wheel off i decided to open it up and check out the bearings.....there was like, minimal grease in the bearings!!!! wtf??? added some phil wood grease and it feels soooooo much nicer.....anywho, once again thanks peeps for the help.
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Cone refers to the inner bearing race, which has a cone-like shape. Traditional loose bearing hubs have a cup and cone race design, with the cups press fit into the hub shell and the cones are threaded onto the axle. The bearings are adjusted by turning the cones on the axle to tighten or loosen the bearings.
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A proper 6-point box wrench. Or a 6-point 15mm socket and wrench. The "peanut butter" wrench is also called a crank spanner. Tighten your nuts and then spread yourself a PBJ with the other end.
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Are you using a proper, 15mm closed end wrench as suggested above? If not, do so.
Failing that, or if the nut is too damaged already to work with a 15mm closed end wrench, desperate measures may be indicated. Locking-jaw pliers, also suggested above may work. Be aware you may need to immobilize the axle while you do this, by placing a cone wrench on the cone flats to prevent the axle from turning with the pliers.
If even the locking jaw pliers fail, you may need to use a nut splitter:
Nut Splitter: It?s as Bad as it Sounds | Toolmonger
Either way, the nut will be toast by the time you get it off, so have a replacement on hand.
Failing that, or if the nut is too damaged already to work with a 15mm closed end wrench, desperate measures may be indicated. Locking-jaw pliers, also suggested above may work. Be aware you may need to immobilize the axle while you do this, by placing a cone wrench on the cone flats to prevent the axle from turning with the pliers.
If even the locking jaw pliers fail, you may need to use a nut splitter:
Nut Splitter: It?s as Bad as it Sounds | Toolmonger
Either way, the nut will be toast by the time you get it off, so have a replacement on hand.