unaesthetic

Can someone tell me how to get both the end caps off a phil wood hub? I can get one off using the allen key, but once it's off there's nothing to hold the axle from turning... I'm confused and don't want to strip the threading by trying to vice it or something dumb.

Is the axle held in place by anything other than the tight fit of both bearings being in there?

ryan_c

I don't know how Phil's differ from most hubs in their assembly, Mr. Moneybags (j/k, I'm actually jealous), but when I am repacking hubs I just take everything off of one end of the axle including the cone, then pull the axle halfway out, remove bearings from one side, pull the rest of the way out, remove bearings from the other side, leaving everything on one side of the axle.
Would this work on a Phil Wood hub? If not, I really am curious how they are constructed, maybe somebody could explain or post pics? Pardon my ignorance.

unaesthetic

Sealed cardrige bearings.. it really *looks* like the whole axle will slide out after getting that one side off, but I'll be damned if it's not going anywhere even after putting all my weight down onto it. I'm scared to try anything more serious for fear of braking a bearing or worse..

dgs

from the phil website

FSA TM, Field Serviceable Axle
#

Completely disassembles with two 5 mm hex wrenches
#

One piece hub shells have flanges angle toward the rim
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Spoke holes are placed perpendicular to the surface of the canted flanges
#

Spoke holes are forged with curvatures around the holes to cradle the spoke head
#

Rear hubs have unique Hi-Lo flange design to enhance balanced spoke tension
#

Precision ground axles have external threaded ends, to accept internal threaded end caps
#

Stainless steel Q-R axle end caps, are broached for a 5 mm hex wrench (bolt-8mm)
#

Stainless wave washers provide angular pre load for optimum ball / race contact
#

Assembled with Phil Spec'd TM, replaceable sealed precision cartridge bearings



If you can't follow all that,
Call them up and ask them.

unaesthetic

I can't follow that because it's simply not true.

I just got them off however, and I'll let anyone know right now to not expect it to be easy!

Process: Get one cap off with the method described, hammer the **** out of the axle from the other side (on wood or something so you don't damage it), vice grip the center of the axle, torque the **** out of the other cup, hope you don't break your tools.

dgs

Amazing Discoveries infomercial TV Show Host: There's got to be a Better Way!

j-quix

Zombie thread back from the dead - i know i know, but im struggling with the same exact problem!

Since this thread Phil wood has added a hexagonal area in the center of the axle for better vice-grip holding power, but ive got an older model with the circular axle.
So - i figured out the "hammer the ***** out of the axle" method, and it worked well enough for the bearing remaining in the hub after removing one end cap,

HOWEVER - i called phil wood and they endorsed the "torque the **** out of the other cap" with the vice-grip, yet all that happens is my vice grips slide (and ive got them as tight as they can get - to the point the axles is stripping the grips!)

so - wtf?
ideas?

Chair

If its a track hub, put it in a frame and bolt one side down to the drop out, pull the bolt from the other side and run a 5mm through the dropout and into the spacer to break the seal. Same on the other side.