Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Bottom Bracket (tiny gap between cups and frame)

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Bottom Bracket (tiny gap between cups and frame)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-16-21, 02:53 AM
  #1  
Danfidanya
Trainee
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bottom Bracket (tiny gap between cups and frame)

I tried to post images but was not allowed since this is my first post!

I have stripped my bike to its frame to clean and rebuild. When reinstalling the bottom bracket I noticed a small gap between the cups and the frame on the bottom (on the top the cups are touching the frame and if i tighten any more the cups will dig into the frame.

Should I be concerned?

The spindle turns fluidly without any play, but it was really tough to thread the adjustable cup (fixed cup was smooth), but both cups have a small millimeter gap.
Danfidanya is offline  
Old 01-16-21, 04:22 AM
  #2  
cb400bill
Forum Moderator
 
cb400bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 20,650

Bikes: Fuji SL2.1 Carbon Di2 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 4 Trek Checkpoint ALR-5 Viscount Aerospace Pro Colnago Classic Rabobank Schwinn Waterford PMount Raleigh C50 Cromoly Hybrid Legnano Tipo Roma Pista

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3090 Post(s)
Liked 6,594 Times in 3,781 Posts
pic assist

https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/20310203





__________________












cb400bill is offline  
Old 01-16-21, 04:59 AM
  #3  
Danfidanya
Trainee
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for adding my photos🙏
Danfidanya is offline  
Old 01-16-21, 05:46 AM
  #4  
100bikes
Industry guy
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 352

Bikes: To many to name - I ride a custom built steel frame.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Liked 80 Times in 48 Posts
With conventional bottom brackets, especially on better quality ones,
the shell should be faced(milled in metal working terms).

This brings the surfaces to parallel, and aligns everything correctly.

The cups would seat properly and the alignment perfect.
rusty
100bikes is offline  
Old 01-16-21, 09:35 AM
  #5  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,227

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
That's a huge gap. Almost looks like the BB is cross threaded.
DaveSSS is offline  
Likes For DaveSSS:
Old 01-16-21, 11:35 AM
  #6  
aSmelly1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Someone please correct me on this if I'm wrong, haven't been working on vintage for too terribly long.
Make sure your cups are on the correct sides. The adjustable cup should always be non drive side... If my brain is orienting the pictures correctly, it looks like the adjustable might be on drive side. I did the same thing/had the same gap on the first old basket case I tried to fixie convert.. fortunately it was a cheap bike when new and even more fortunately I didn't strip or cross any shell threads. If they do seem to be on the wrong sides, dont use too much force when twisting them in the correct sides. If you feel a deal of resistance and suspect any cross-threading, take that frame to your LBS and see if they can chase the threads (or give any other advice) before it gets any worse.
And if you didn't already, liberally lube those shell threads.
aSmelly1 is offline  
Likes For aSmelly1:
Old 01-16-21, 12:20 PM
  #7  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
The only way the cups could have been reversed is if the shell is Italian threaded (or even less likely French) or the cups were horribly cross threaded. If the threads are correct and the cups installed on the proper sides, that frame is badly in need of facing.
HillRider is offline  
Old 01-17-21, 12:06 AM
  #8  
Litespud
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chapel Hill NC
Posts: 1,683

Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Vortex Chorus 10, 1995 DeBernardi Cromor S/S

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 645 Post(s)
Liked 797 Times in 446 Posts
Originally Posted by cb400bill
just to clarify, is that a lock ring on the drive side? If so, I think it’s on the wrong side. When you installed the cups, were you able to at least start the threading by hand before you took a wrench to them? Did they both screw in clockwise or was one counterclockwise? Is there anything engraved on either of the cups (I’m thinking of something like “1.37” x 24tpi” or “36mm x 24tpi”)? Trying to determine what sort of BB threading you have.
an uneven gap suggests that you might need to have the BB shell faced at the LBS
Litespud is offline  
Old 01-17-21, 07:30 AM
  #9  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,513

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,393 Times in 2,056 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
The only way the cups could have been reversed is if the shell is Italian threaded (or even less likely French) or the cups were horribly cross threaded. If the threads are correct and the cups installed on the proper sides, that frame is badly in need of facing.
The perceived (because photo angles) unevenness of the gap on the fixed cup suggests to me a cross threading issue.
OP - How did the cup gap look before you initially removed them?
dedhed is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.