rickybails

Yes it's an aluminium frame, and yes I expect solid wax might work - provided it doesn't scrape off easily as you insert the seattube.

bugly64

I have wanted to be part of this group for a long while; now I am officially a part.

rcnute

I'm looking for a steel Swift if anyone has one to sell. Thanks!

Ryan

rcnute

I have an older aluminum Swift with a loose-fitting seatpost. Wondering what others have used for a shim. Thanks for any ideas.

Ryan

rickybails

On mine the gap was too small for a shim. I got a Peter to send me the slightly fatter version of the seatpost. I have also used a Dahon seatpost for a few years that was the right size. others have recommended putting lube on the seatpost (to get a thin film of it). but also you need to have good seatpost clamps and keep them well lubed (allows you to clamp them tighter).

cobdomview

I used some very thin brass to make a shim. It’s not quite as thick as a drinks can. I put a hole in the shim so that the qr skewer would hold it in place.

rcnute

Thanks! I replaced the skewers with steel ones from Bike Friday but there's still play.

Ryan

Schwinnsta

You can get quick release seat clamp for 40 mm diameter. It will have a lip that needs to be filed off. It will act as a stop. I did this with my Brompton. On my Swift, the original skewers are OK. After a time, months, I start hearing creaking noise. I then use Boeshield T-9 on the post (after cleaning) and quick releases. I thought of getting some Kipp quick releases which are very high quality and would no doubt put on more clamping force but I a reticent to do that since it might/would fatigue the seat tube post faster.

tds101 

I just spotted this 8 speed Xootr Swift for sale on Craighslist in Queens, NY,... Xootr Swift Folding Bike 8 Speed - Blue - bicycles - by owner - bike... (craigslist.org)

mlau

You could just buy a new seatpost. Xootr still sells them.

michael432000

Sorted the loose seatpost problem with some copper tooling foil 0.1mm. It’s very malleable and easy to cut but strong enough to keep its shape.

See pictures in post #3227

PebbledChin

I bought a 2nd-hand Al alloy swift that had an extremely wallowed-out seat tube; the seat (pin/post/pillar) could barely touch the sides of the seat tube and the bike was unusable. I found very thin shims were not robust and would peel out or wrinkle up. I ended selecting a much small seat (pin/post/pillar) and thicker aluminium shims, which I permanently glued into place. This fix seems to have worked for a few years so far. The secret was to put the measurements of the ID of the seat tube, all the OD of all the seat (pin/post/pillars) I could find, and all the common shim thicknesses into a spreadsheet to find a set that worked to within 0.1mm.
It seems (according to my ebay history) I settled for a 31.8mm (pin/post/pillar) in the end, with a 30.0 to 27.2mm shim. Note that the shim isn't the right diameter for anything and it has to be bent out a bit, but it was selected for its ability to fill the gap.
I wonder whether everyone should shim their swift so that if or when the shim frets, it can be thrown away and a new one put in, so saving the frame from wear? A steel shim might be even better since it is both harder than al alloy and less likely to metallically bond to the al alloy seat (pin/post/pillar). You'd have to watch for differential corrosion instead, but I can't imagine this would be much of a risk with a folder where the joint is being moved frequently.

extecher

Hi all,

I purchased a steel Swift Folder this week for a steal ($100 8-speed with a gaggle of mods and in almost pristine condition) that came without a saddle or saddle clamp on the seatpost, and after visiting the three local bike shops not a single one knows what kind of clamp would work on it (I live in a small city where the concept of folding bikes is truly foreign). After searching online it seems the seatpost I have is the 34mm generic OEM one that came with it that's NL-branded (Don't have enough posts to post an image of it apparently). Anyone have any insights on what specific part I would need to purchase?

I'm almost completely ignorant of anything bike-related (Aircraft and drones are more my thing) so any assistance is much appreciated. The knowledge in this thread convinced me that the bike was worth purchasing and that I have a legendary bit of kit in my possession. Thanks!

Schwinnsta

The 34 mm seatpost is for the Aluminum Swift. Xootr still sells them for $30. I think that the tubing on the steel Swift is smaller, though I don't know the size. The clamp on my Aluminum 34 mm is integral to the post. You need to carefully measure your post and seatpost tube if you need the 34 mm get one from Xootr. If you do have a steel frame Swift then contact Alternative Needs Transportation, they used to make some of them there.

tds101 

Contact Xootr and they'll give you a hand finding what you need,... Xootr

extecher

I looked online and ANT is apparently closed. I didn't see anything from Zootr on their website so I figured that they didn't provide services anymore I'll ask them.

Dumb question but considering how Swifts were designed to be user-customizable, wouldn't I be able to find a generic clamp for the seatpost that would match, or are clamps the kind of parts you don't purchase separately? Related, couldn't I just purchase a 33.9/34mm seatpost online and it would work if all else fails?

Thanks!

Schwinnsta

Yes you can. Dahon seatposts 33.9 mm and are working for me. https://xootr.com/collections/cleara...wift-seat-post Xootr site works for me. But you say your Swift is steel. Xootr Swifts are not steel They are aluminum and the diameter of the tubes are thinner AFAIK. You are warned to which you need. If you can't measure the diameter of your seat tube take it to a bike shop and ask them. Ask what frame is made of too. They have magnets. The front forks are all steel. Contact Xootr. They will steer you in the right direction.

mlau

Dude, you suck! (in the neanderthal woodworking forum, that means you got a really, really great deal!)

The Swift is one of the best folding bikes ever made, and the steel frames were handmade in the USA (in Oregon, I think).
Everything is pretty much compatible stock bike parts and super flexible as a platform.
Swifts have been made into fixies, roadies, hybrid (stock), granny bikes, etc....the only weakness is carrying bags, and fold size.

Call Xootr. They still have parts, and are very passionate about that bike.

mlau

Oh, and you'll find this link useful.

It should fit pretty much every standard saddle.

scrambeagle

I have the possibility of purchasing 2 different aluminum Xootr Swifts in my area. One has a rear rack and is quoted as 25 lbs, while the other does not and is described as 27 lbs. Would the experts of this thread attribute the weight discrepancy to home scale inaccuracy?

I understand that there are several iterations of the china-made Xootr frame from perusing the thread, but I wouldn’t know how to differentiate them visually. Is the later “beefed up” aluminum frame significantly heavier? Are there visible gussets I should look out for? I’m somewhat interested in trying to achieve an overall lightweight build.

joey buzzard

27lbs sounds on the heavy side. It could well be inaccurate because it wasn't weighed properly or the seller is just inexpertly making a guess. Or maybe it has just been loaded with heavy components.

Anyway, good luck with your build.

scrambeagle

I ended up taking the plunge last week on an aluminum Swift. Couldn’t tell if the seller was a Bikeforums guy or not. He said he was an early Helix backer so he no longer needed the Swift.

As far as I can tell the bike is stock, other than a Maxxis Hookworm on the front. I did a few rides around the neighborhood, put on a longer stem, and did 35 miles yesterday around Queens.

I’m normally pretty slow on my mtb and marginally faster on my souped up Raleigh Twenty. The Swift definitely accelerated really well and felt much more spry climbing than my other bikes.

Immediate plans are a less squishy saddle, wider bars with a little backsweep, and maybe changing out the tires. I already have a 2.0” Big Apple that I’ll try on the back. I run 2.15” BA’s on the Raleigh and feel really confident with them, but it might be nice to find something lighter that’s still high volume.

Looking forward to playing around and dialing it in!

Schwinnsta

I run BAs 2.0 on mine with Surly Monkey nuts V2 to space drop out on rear.

seat_boy

I have Tioga PowerBlock 1.9s on mine, and to get the rear tire to fit, not only did I have to slide the wheel all the way back in the dropouts, but I also had to put in a longer bottom bracket spindle to prevent the chain from rubbing on the tire in the lowest gear.

mlau

Btw, has anyone converted their Swift to an e-bike?

I'm thinking of converting mine.