REDMASTA

thanks! they are zipp 302 clinchers laced to phil low flange hubs using sapim cx-sprint spokes. had them built by prowheelbuilder. won't impress any weight weenies but they are strong!

veganbikes

You couldn't impress a weight weenie with Phil hubs but that is not the reason for Phil Hubs, they are sexy and last a long time. For some people they gotta have the Guchi logos or Calvin Klein but for cyclists it is that red Phil script logo that sets our hearts a flutter.

50voltphantom

Awesome. Low flange Phil's look so great. Those bombproof axles aren't light. I miss my Phil wheelset so bad, $#^&$%^ thieves.

rewop12

Copped a new Dolan Pre Cursa in gunmetal grey

bro

Picked up a frog(nitto sp72) for $57, and had the darndest time adjusting it. I like my saddles perfectly level or with the nose up a bit, and it seemed that no matter how I did it it always ended up nose down. I was thinking maybe the furthest back it goes just isn't enough for me? So I ended up tightening the rear bolt all the way, then tightening down the front until it was at the angle I liked(pictured). Is this the right way? I -could- keep turning it till it stops, and then it's nose-down. Hah, I haven't had a two bolt post before! Just wanna make sure I'm not doing it in a way thats bad for it, or if I just don't understand another way to get it to the angle I want. I don't wanna over-torque it. Whose got an sp72? Any luck setting it level/nose slightly up?

veganbikes

If everything is tight and the saddle is not moving you should be good. You will generally tighten one more than the other to level out the saddle but if one bolt is loose completely you will need to properly tighten all of the bolts. Though should be pretty easy.

bro

Rad, thanks. The front bolt is firm, but not tight. I was just wondering if that's how it's supposed to be or if it'll loosen eventually. Seems like it's supposed to be that way. I can leave the back bolt fully tightened, loosen the front and change the fore-aft position without affecting the angle, according to some sources. But the angle seems to be affected by how much i choose to tighten the front bolt.. clamp looks right, it's not loose on the front or anything so I guess it's prolly fine. Mighty fine seatpost anyway, very chunky

Strictformflow

ymmv I have had my seat come loose when one bolt tight one just snug to achieve a saddle position or angle. Best of luck but I'm looking for the best practice here as well.

Senrab62 

I might get some flack, but I am a poor old man with too many projects to buy parts for. Picked this up on Ali for about $70 shipped. Took two months. Appears great for the price. Chainring machining is pretty good. Arms look excellent. If they perform well, I am buying a second even though price went up a bit. My assumption is BB will be mediocre at best. Likely a rebranded version of someone else's, perhaps. 🤷🏾‍♂️

Will try to weigh and see if it is within the claimed range. Not a fan of the graphics, so will play around with acetone or stickers as it is going on my sticker bomber.

abshipp 

165mm RD2 from here on the forum
Origin8 36° hubset

Should turn into a fun set of 650b wheels with nice cushy 35mm tires and no toe overlap

bro

I figure I must've been cranking it down too hard because in that case there'd only be one angle, the one where both bolts are tight haha. Didn't want to bend anything, just wanted to make sure... if the back is fully cranked the saddle -should- be nose-up... but it seems that I can just keep tightening the front until it's nose down, but youre probably not supposed to. I think it's tight enough... And the saddle isn't moving around or anything. Was hoping some other sp72 owners could chime in but I may have to go to C&V to find folks that like em nose-up, haha. Speaking of C&V, this stuff came in the mail today. NOS bike ribbon and Milremo plugs(made by REG). Dope!!


I'm also waiting on some other stuff in the mail... Nitto B105 40cm bars(since I couldn't seem to find B115's in a 40cm anywhere), nitto pearl 12 stem, blue toshi straps and blue REG strap buttons! Bikes gonna look hot!

veganbikes

I got some Bike Ribbon in the Pink color from Justyne at Bike Recyclery on my Phil Wood bike, it is nice tape, I really only bought it for color but I actually kind of like the tape.

bro

New stuff
nitto pearl 120 stem and b105 bars in 40cm, with fake bike ribbon and Milremo/REG plugs, and some blue toshi straps and REG strap buttons
Trying this cockpit out vs my Cinelli 1a+66's. it's not as aesthetically pleasing, but it's a more square bar that's flatter on the top and has a shallower drop. This tape isn't as good as the real stuff, but it looks nice and very 80's. I can see myself swapping it out for some soma thick n zesty at some point, for more comfort+grip.






Max extension

Slammed

ofajen

I got some cockpit parts for my road bike:
a generic quill stem adapter,
another NOS 135mm high rise stem just like I use on the MTB,
new brake levers and
steel bar ends that can go around the bend of the touring bars.





Edit: the new quill adapter and long stem are working great. Basically the same cockpit and fit as on the RockHopper now. I took the $5 bar ends back off. With the longer stem, the bar ends don’t add enough benefit over using the forward bends to justify losing the easy option to flip the bike over for cleaning. These days I have to brush off a mess of mud splatter after every ride.

Otto

abshipp 

Ahh, new bike parts day



We'll see if the 107mm BB works chainline-wise. The cranks are also 165mm which I don't have a lot of experience with.

If that doesn't work I've got this in 170mm waiting in the wings:

bro

White turbo, nos campagnolo strap buttons and buckle sleeves, top tube protector

Waiting on Sugino 75 chainring, EAI lockring and mks stream pedals in the mail

Mikefule

I don't spend much on the bike. When I do, it's fine tuning, usually to deal with something that has been making rides less enjoyable than they should be.

For example, last year after a series of rides in which I had a puncture almost every time, I bought new Gatorskin tyres, and took the opportunity to upsize from 23 mm to 25mm. 2 birds with 1 stone: a more comfortable ride, and almost no punctures.

And in this last week or so, having realised that I spent more time wishing I had a slightly lower ratio than I spent wishing I had a slightly higher ratio, I did the maths and bought a Gebhardt 42t chainring.

I swapped the 20t sprocket for the 18t that I had in the bits box, and, with some new chain ring bolts and a few minutes' work, I had a bike with a 5% lower gear, and a day or two later knocked about a minute and a half off my previous best time for my local 10 mile loop.

A small amount of money well spent.

Should I choose, I can achieve almost exactly the old ratio with a 17 sprocket on the other side of the flip flop hub.

abshipp 

Just bought a pair of 650b X 32mm Grand Bois Cypres tires for my 650b-converted track bike.

I just a few weeks ago purchased a single tire of the same kind for the rear to give myself some more clearance - an old mostly worn out Pari-Moto 38mm only left a mm or two on each side and I had to have the wheel all the way back in the dropouts. The new tire worked great but is conspicuously smaller than the Pari-Moto on the front so I decided to pick up another one. Naturally the only ones I could find was a two pack that I somehow missed the first time around for just a bit more than I paid for the single tire

veganbikes

Fox 32 650b fork 100 mm. Gotta get that Cashmoney Kashima

abshipp 

More wheelbuilding stuff since I really hate the mismatched rims on my track bike.

I had two 650b Velocity Synergy rims that I thought were both 36 hole but one of them ended up only having 32 spokes. I was impatient and not wanting to spend any more money so I just built up a spare 650b Velocity Atlas (super wide, super heavy touring rim) I had. Well that's been driving me nuts so I was looking in to picking up a 32 hole Origin8 hub to match the rear but also needed some spokes that were a bit longer.

The spokes I found for around $.50/pc on an eBay store and happened to look at the seller's other items - they had a "Superb" high flange front hub that looks exactly like the Origin8 I was planning on buying, but $20 cheaper! I think I can deal with mismatched hub labels to save a Jackson

pbass

I just got a Surly Hurdy Gurdy for my Cross Check. I didn't even know these existed before. I've seen plenty of ss CC's but I don't think I've ever seen one of these on one. I can't see a downside to it yet--it is pretty nifty for really fine-tuning chain tension, and the extra layer of safety seems like a no-brainer(though I always checked for loose bolts and whatnot regularly anyway). We will see!

abshipp 

Well that's certainly clever! I had no idea that existed either.

Does the CC not have dropout adjuster screws? I can't tell on the website.

I'm fortunate in that my only fixed gear with horizontal slanted dropouts has dropout adjusters so it's super easy always putting the wheel back in the correct place.

pbass

Yeah there are adjuster screws for the CC (I just have mine out currently) but this is more about a) extra security from your wheel pulling forward out of the dropout, and b) a real fine-tuning adjustment of the chain tension.
I never worried about my wheel coming out before, I just made sure things were tight. But it doesn't suck to know it can't pull out now. But mostly I will say, it's pretty cool how the smallest adjustment of the screw on this thing affects the chain tension. You can really dial it in. So far so good.

BikeEthics

I just purchased new chains as the price was great on Amazon. Does anyone have any experience with the below?

Izumi Jet Black Single Speed Chain 1/8" Black/Silver 116L

abshipp 

Well nevermind on that I suppose, apparently they only had one and the flange is cracked

Anyone got a spare Origin8 SS-1101 in 32h silver taking up space?