Upgrading a Bike (making the most out of bike shortage)
09-25-20, 02:11 PM
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Upgrading a Bike (making the most out of bike shortage)
Hello people who know more about bikes than me. I've come for a bit of advise, guidance if you will.
(Background): I've been stalking bikes for months after mine was stolen. It's been hard during such a bike shortage as either you're dealing with fairly garbage brands (looking at you Huffy/Roadmaster) or Ebikes as to what is making up most stock. Occasionally you can find one online that is either delayed for months (looking at earliest ship dates mid to late October with most mid to late November). Ideally I wanted a Crusier/Comfort light commuter. I wanted something with wider wheels (as it snows/freezes here) which axed most road bikes, and an upright/comfortable geometry (axed many mountain bikes). Almost all of my local shops were sold out of mid range bikes (some were overcharging for them as well)... so I turned to marketplace, offerup, etc. Hell even there people were either blatantly lying about what the bike costs (so i'm assuming that nobody checks what the bikes cost), or taking complete advantage of the bike shortage and overcharging for bikes (like selling Huffys for $300 or Specialized Rolls for $800), or it was stolen etc.
Thusly I ended up buying a Raleigh 3.0 Venture from my elderly neighbor who needed the money after , well, falling while riding.I overpaid but not above retail by any means. This bike has a Shimano Altus 7 speed gearset (Shimano Revo twist shifter which I hate and a Megagear Freewheel Sprocket which... I mean works, I can ride the bike without problems)... so here are my potentially stupid questions (you've been warned).
Considering I was ready to spend about $500 - $600 for a new Electra 7D (Shimano Tourney, Freehub), Public (Shimano Nexus Internal Hub), 630 ( Shimano Tourney), Linus (Nexus Internal Freewheel), etc How feasible is the following
Converting wheelset to Freehub vs Freewheel. I tend to carry my child and groceries when I ride, I know Freewheels can be more easily bend and are harder to upgrade. Since it is a freewheel i'm guessing I cannot change the gearing ratio. Can I even change the gear ratio? If I upgrade the wheels is it possible (i know this varies on the bike but not fully sure on measurement factors for height, was it 5-10mm clearance?) to switch these to 27.5" tires.
Are breaks worth upgrading?
I paid like $120 for the bike so I don't mind a couple hundred more for making the bike better since new bikes are taking months
Thanks for listening to my novice questions.
I can add pics if needed
(Background): I've been stalking bikes for months after mine was stolen. It's been hard during such a bike shortage as either you're dealing with fairly garbage brands (looking at you Huffy/Roadmaster) or Ebikes as to what is making up most stock. Occasionally you can find one online that is either delayed for months (looking at earliest ship dates mid to late October with most mid to late November). Ideally I wanted a Crusier/Comfort light commuter. I wanted something with wider wheels (as it snows/freezes here) which axed most road bikes, and an upright/comfortable geometry (axed many mountain bikes). Almost all of my local shops were sold out of mid range bikes (some were overcharging for them as well)... so I turned to marketplace, offerup, etc. Hell even there people were either blatantly lying about what the bike costs (so i'm assuming that nobody checks what the bikes cost), or taking complete advantage of the bike shortage and overcharging for bikes (like selling Huffys for $300 or Specialized Rolls for $800), or it was stolen etc.
Thusly I ended up buying a Raleigh 3.0 Venture from my elderly neighbor who needed the money after , well, falling while riding.I overpaid but not above retail by any means. This bike has a Shimano Altus 7 speed gearset (Shimano Revo twist shifter which I hate and a Megagear Freewheel Sprocket which... I mean works, I can ride the bike without problems)... so here are my potentially stupid questions (you've been warned).
Considering I was ready to spend about $500 - $600 for a new Electra 7D (Shimano Tourney, Freehub), Public (Shimano Nexus Internal Hub), 630 ( Shimano Tourney), Linus (Nexus Internal Freewheel), etc How feasible is the following
Converting wheelset to Freehub vs Freewheel. I tend to carry my child and groceries when I ride, I know Freewheels can be more easily bend and are harder to upgrade. Since it is a freewheel i'm guessing I cannot change the gearing ratio. Can I even change the gear ratio? If I upgrade the wheels is it possible (i know this varies on the bike but not fully sure on measurement factors for height, was it 5-10mm clearance?) to switch these to 27.5" tires.
Are breaks worth upgrading?
I paid like $120 for the bike so I don't mind a couple hundred more for making the bike better since new bikes are taking months
Thanks for listening to my novice questions.
I can add pics if needed
09-25-20, 02:17 PM
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Welcome to BF.
Post some pics if you have them
Post some pics if you have them
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Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
09-25-20, 02:20 PM
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Why don't you ride it a while and see how you like it. The only thing that I see that I might change right off might be the saddle, but it all depends on what's comfortable for you.
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09-25-20, 02:37 PM
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I think it's because I know what's uncomfortable already. I had a Specialized Roll Elite before, which was 27.5 (650B x 2.3) and the smaller tire size is very noticable (albeit not awful) and it was an 8 speed. I suppose i'm going back and forth between trying to make this what I want while settling just below.
09-25-20, 02:38 PM
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09-25-20, 02:53 PM
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Sounds like my Globe Carmel, the bike I resumed riding on in 2015 after 30+ years away from cycling. I rarely ride it anymore but it was a good bike for getting back into shape. Now I mostly ride road bikes and another hybrid for errands and casual group rides.
Best and cheapest modification I'd suggest is a better freewheel. Those Shimano MegaRange freewheels can have an atrociously large jump from a 24 tooth next-to-largest cog to a 32 or 34. Makes it impossible to shift smoothly mid-climb. Since my hybrids have triple chainrings with 28T and 30T small rings, I didn't really need that "mega" granny gear. I switched to a SunRace 7-speed 13-28 freewheel with more normal spacing between each cog. Much better.
Only problem is you'll need a freewheel tool, which will cost around $15, and a hefty wrench at least a foot long or more to use it. The Shimano splined freewheel tool is most common and easy to use. I buy most basic wrenches from the pawn shops for cheap, so I got a good heavy duty combo box/open end wrench for about $12.
If the freewheel is really jammed you'll need a cheater bar to extend the leverage of your wrench, or a bench vise. Your local bike shop might be willing to do it for a few bucks, or free (I always buy something -- a tube, bar wrap, snacks, whatever, or tip when my LBS does minor stuff for free).
Use the quick release doodad to secure the freewheel tool for removal. Helps keep it from slipping off an buggering the splines. Don't tighten the QR, just snug it up loosely to keep the freewheel tool remover in place.
Be sure to grease the threads to minimize jamming next time. Freewheels cannot come loose while riding so they don't need to be over tightened. Our body weight and pedaling do the final tightening.
After a couple of years of frequent use those RevoShift grip shifters might break. They aren't serviceable. Been there, tried that. It's all plastic and a couple of sheet metal and coil springs, all snapped or riveted together. You can either replace the RevoShift kit for $10-$15 (including cables and housings), or switch to something like crude but effective and reliable SunRace SLM-10 friction thumb shifters. Or, if the budget permits, decent trigger shifters for around $25-$50.
Best and cheapest modification I'd suggest is a better freewheel. Those Shimano MegaRange freewheels can have an atrociously large jump from a 24 tooth next-to-largest cog to a 32 or 34. Makes it impossible to shift smoothly mid-climb. Since my hybrids have triple chainrings with 28T and 30T small rings, I didn't really need that "mega" granny gear. I switched to a SunRace 7-speed 13-28 freewheel with more normal spacing between each cog. Much better.
Only problem is you'll need a freewheel tool, which will cost around $15, and a hefty wrench at least a foot long or more to use it. The Shimano splined freewheel tool is most common and easy to use. I buy most basic wrenches from the pawn shops for cheap, so I got a good heavy duty combo box/open end wrench for about $12.
If the freewheel is really jammed you'll need a cheater bar to extend the leverage of your wrench, or a bench vise. Your local bike shop might be willing to do it for a few bucks, or free (I always buy something -- a tube, bar wrap, snacks, whatever, or tip when my LBS does minor stuff for free).
Use the quick release doodad to secure the freewheel tool for removal. Helps keep it from slipping off an buggering the splines. Don't tighten the QR, just snug it up loosely to keep the freewheel tool remover in place.
Be sure to grease the threads to minimize jamming next time. Freewheels cannot come loose while riding so they don't need to be over tightened. Our body weight and pedaling do the final tightening.
After a couple of years of frequent use those RevoShift grip shifters might break. They aren't serviceable. Been there, tried that. It's all plastic and a couple of sheet metal and coil springs, all snapped or riveted together. You can either replace the RevoShift kit for $10-$15 (including cables and housings), or switch to something like crude but effective and reliable SunRace SLM-10 friction thumb shifters. Or, if the budget permits, decent trigger shifters for around $25-$50.
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09-25-20, 03:35 PM
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Sounds like my Globe Carmel, the bike I resumed riding on in 2015 after 30+ years away from cycling. I rarely ride it anymore but it was a good bike for getting back into shape. Now I mostly ride road bikes and another hybrid for errands and casual group rides.
Best and cheapest modification I'd suggest is a better freewheel. Those Shimano MegaRange freewheels can have an atrociously large jump from a 24 tooth next-to-largest cog to a 32 or 34. Makes it impossible to shift smoothly mid-climb. Since my hybrids have triple chainrings with 28T and 30T small rings, I didn't really need that "mega" granny gear. I switched to a SunRace 7-speed 13-28 freewheel with more normal spacing between each cog. Much better.
Only problem is you'll need a freewheel tool, which will cost around $15, and a hefty wrench at least a foot long or more to use it. The Shimano splined freewheel tool is most common and easy to use. I buy most basic wrenches from the pawn shops for cheap, so I got a good heavy duty combo box/open end wrench for about $12.
If the freewheel is really jammed you'll need a cheater bar to extend the leverage of your wrench, or a bench vise. Your local bike shop might be willing to do it for a few bucks, or free (I always buy something -- a tube, bar wrap, snacks, whatever, or tip when my LBS does minor stuff for free).
Use the quick release doodad to secure the freewheel tool for removal. Helps keep it from slipping off an buggering the splines. Don't tighten the QR, just snug it up loosely to keep the freewheel tool remover in place.
Be sure to grease the threads to minimize jamming next time. Freewheels cannot come loose while riding so they don't need to be over tightened. Our body weight and pedaling do the final tightening.
After a couple of years of frequent use those RevoShift grip shifters might break. They aren't serviceable. Been there, tried that. It's all plastic and a couple of sheet metal and coil springs, all snapped or riveted together. You can either replace the RevoShift kit for $10-$15 (including cables and housings), or switch to something like crude but effective and reliable SunRace SLM-10 friction thumb shifters. Or, if the budget permits, decent trigger shifters for around $25-$50.
Best and cheapest modification I'd suggest is a better freewheel. Those Shimano MegaRange freewheels can have an atrociously large jump from a 24 tooth next-to-largest cog to a 32 or 34. Makes it impossible to shift smoothly mid-climb. Since my hybrids have triple chainrings with 28T and 30T small rings, I didn't really need that "mega" granny gear. I switched to a SunRace 7-speed 13-28 freewheel with more normal spacing between each cog. Much better.
Only problem is you'll need a freewheel tool, which will cost around $15, and a hefty wrench at least a foot long or more to use it. The Shimano splined freewheel tool is most common and easy to use. I buy most basic wrenches from the pawn shops for cheap, so I got a good heavy duty combo box/open end wrench for about $12.
If the freewheel is really jammed you'll need a cheater bar to extend the leverage of your wrench, or a bench vise. Your local bike shop might be willing to do it for a few bucks, or free (I always buy something -- a tube, bar wrap, snacks, whatever, or tip when my LBS does minor stuff for free).
Use the quick release doodad to secure the freewheel tool for removal. Helps keep it from slipping off an buggering the splines. Don't tighten the QR, just snug it up loosely to keep the freewheel tool remover in place.
Be sure to grease the threads to minimize jamming next time. Freewheels cannot come loose while riding so they don't need to be over tightened. Our body weight and pedaling do the final tightening.
After a couple of years of frequent use those RevoShift grip shifters might break. They aren't serviceable. Been there, tried that. It's all plastic and a couple of sheet metal and coil springs, all snapped or riveted together. You can either replace the RevoShift kit for $10-$15 (including cables and housings), or switch to something like crude but effective and reliable SunRace SLM-10 friction thumb shifters. Or, if the budget permits, decent trigger shifters for around $25-$50.
Thank You!!!!!!
Yes, I grabbed the bike and rode it 10 miles home. Which is how I know what I wanted to change about it essentially immediately. Twas a comfortable ride in terms of geometry but figured it could be better in terms of capability.
I agree, that granny gear differential was awful. And a huge difference between having a 9 speed Specialized Roll to a 7 speed. The shifting is quite awful, so I may change that either way, it seems to forget or stick between gears in addition to just disagreeing with the current freewheel. Tools, got a garage full of them (including bench vise) so i'll def grab the bike specific ones (should have those anyways)
I honestly have about $200-$300 to throw to upgrades on this bike. I know many would say "you should have bought a better bike" but i'm not going to overpay because some schmuck wants to overcharge due to covid shortage and otherwise shops are running a few months behind on new supply, so I figure make it the bike I want, ride it to death then get a new one in a couple years
09-25-20, 03:39 PM
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You can upgrade the ratios on a freewheel bike, just find a cluster with different cogs, same # of speeds, make sure it's within the capacity of the derailleur, etc. Sometimes a smaller chainring is an easier way to change the ratio.
Changing hubs to accommodate a freewheel would be a lot of work, and probably not worthwhile if you can find a new or used replacement wheel.
Changing hubs to accommodate a freewheel would be a lot of work, and probably not worthwhile if you can find a new or used replacement wheel.
09-25-20, 03:56 PM
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You can upgrade the ratios on a freewheel bike, just find a cluster with different cogs, same # of speeds, make sure it's within the capacity of the derailleur, etc. Sometimes a smaller chainring is an easier way to change the ratio.
Changing hubs to accommodate a freewheel would be a lot of work, and probably not worthwhile if you can find a new or used replacement wheel.
Changing hubs to accommodate a freewheel would be a lot of work, and probably not worthwhile if you can find a new or used replacement wheel.
Probably a good place to start, thanks! I'm still trying to figure out all the specific terms. I've fixed things without making proprietary changes (usually went through show), but hey might as well learn something on an inexpensive bike.
Though i don't think i would change the hubs, but change the entire wheelset from freewheel to freehub (albeit i would also have to change the cassettes, potentially the derailleur and chainrings)
09-25-20, 06:54 PM
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This present shortage isn't going to last forever. My advice would be to ride the wheels off of what you have with a minimum amount of upgrades and only things that are necessary. Save your $300 and add to it so when the shortage is over you will have the bux to buy something really nice,
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09-25-20, 07:54 PM
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This present shortage isn't going to last forever. My advice would be to ride the wheels off of what you have with a minimum amount of upgrades and only things that are necessary. Save your $300 and add to it so when the shortage is over you will have the bux to buy something really nice,
09-25-20, 10:34 PM
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I thought the same as Charliekeet and Thomas: Ride this bicycle as-is, put your money towards a better bicycle when they become available again. After getting the new bicycle, you can still upgrade this one with a freehub wheel if it seems feasible at that time. I'd rather buy a new CrMo touring or gravel bicycle, instead of a new hybrid, but that's me.
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09-26-20, 09:34 AM
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Converting wheelset to Freehub vs Freewheel. I tend to carry my child and groceries when I ride, I know Freewheels can be more easily bend and are harder to upgrade. Since it is a freewheel i'm guessing I cannot change the gearing ratio. Can I even change the gear ratio? If I upgrade the wheels is it possible (i know this varies on the bike but not fully sure on measurement factors for height, was it 5-10mm clearance?) to switch these to 27.5" tires.
A hub which uses a freewheel has a drive side bearing which is not idealy located making the axle slightly more vulneable to bending or breaking than a freehub axle. Under normal riding conditions, even with a load, this should not be a cause for concern. I've been riding, touring and hauling on my freewheel hubs for forty plus years and have never broken, or even bent an axle.
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09-26-20, 10:18 AM
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The bike has a triple on the front. More gears in the back will not net you any advantage. Rim brakes mean you have to stay with the same rim size, there is nothing wrong with 26" tires.
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09-26-20, 11:26 AM
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The latest version I could find online was a 21-speed 2014 3.0 https://community.raleighusa.com/bik...014-venture-30
My first question would be, what is the rear dropout spacing?
Old 7-speeds used to run 126 mm between dropouts (the slots at the back of the chain stays where the rear axle fits) but that increased to 130 for road bikes and 135 for MTB in the mid-80s. Now I think 142 is standard with disc brakes,. (And then there is Boost, or Plus, or Pus, or whatever .... don't get other people started ....
)
As for clearance for really fat tires .... you'd have to actually measure the space between chainstays and at the brake bridge, and the fork legs and fork crown in front.
If your bike has 130 or 135 spacing, you can buy a freehub rear wheel and any number of rear cogs up to 12. Getting a 9-speed set-up might be preferable---you will need to buy different tools to pull the cassette but the freehub-specific tools work for every other modern bike while the freewheel-specific tools only work for freewheels, which are rare nowadays and only on low-end bikes.
If you like the bike, go to an 8- or 9-speed set-up with decent trigger shifters.
On another hand .... I have a 1983 Cannondale ST-500 touring bike with a 7-speed freewheel (came with six.) it has stood the test of time, and I also have the megarange 14-34 cluster. Because I have 48-38-28 triple the 48x14 is too low for fast riding, but fine for most rides .... it is a little lower gar than i would normally use for quick cruising but i just spin a little faster. The big jump between 6 and 7 isn't such an issue with a triple---I shift the front to keep more in the middle of the cluster instead of running the full high-low combo.
I also did a 1100-mile fully loaded tour on a freewheel, and it held up fine despite ridiculously large loads. I guess if you do a lot of jumps you might bend an axle .....
So maybe just swapping for the 11-28 cluster is your safest bet.
Not sure why the brakes wouldn't work unless they are just really cheap and flexy. Certainly you could buy more expensive brakes. it might be an adjustment issue, of the levers might be cheap. Not sure.
My first question would be, what is the rear dropout spacing?
Old 7-speeds used to run 126 mm between dropouts (the slots at the back of the chain stays where the rear axle fits) but that increased to 130 for road bikes and 135 for MTB in the mid-80s. Now I think 142 is standard with disc brakes,. (And then there is Boost, or Plus, or Pus, or whatever .... don't get other people started ....
)As for clearance for really fat tires .... you'd have to actually measure the space between chainstays and at the brake bridge, and the fork legs and fork crown in front.
If your bike has 130 or 135 spacing, you can buy a freehub rear wheel and any number of rear cogs up to 12. Getting a 9-speed set-up might be preferable---you will need to buy different tools to pull the cassette but the freehub-specific tools work for every other modern bike while the freewheel-specific tools only work for freewheels, which are rare nowadays and only on low-end bikes.
If you like the bike, go to an 8- or 9-speed set-up with decent trigger shifters.
On another hand .... I have a 1983 Cannondale ST-500 touring bike with a 7-speed freewheel (came with six.) it has stood the test of time, and I also have the megarange 14-34 cluster. Because I have 48-38-28 triple the 48x14 is too low for fast riding, but fine for most rides .... it is a little lower gar than i would normally use for quick cruising but i just spin a little faster. The big jump between 6 and 7 isn't such an issue with a triple---I shift the front to keep more in the middle of the cluster instead of running the full high-low combo.
I also did a 1100-mile fully loaded tour on a freewheel, and it held up fine despite ridiculously large loads. I guess if you do a lot of jumps you might bend an axle .....
So maybe just swapping for the 11-28 cluster is your safest bet.
Not sure why the brakes wouldn't work unless they are just really cheap and flexy. Certainly you could buy more expensive brakes. it might be an adjustment issue, of the levers might be cheap. Not sure.
