How many output modes should a headlight ideally have?
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How many output modes should a headlight ideally have?
I'm curious how many output modes you look for when buying a light? This is a question I recently asked myself, as I'm currently testing out a Magicshine Allty 2000 and a Light & Motion Vya Pro Headlight. The Allty has an impressive 17 different unique modes (DRL mode + 4 power settings for left LED only / right LED only / left + right LED blinking). Meanwhile the Vya Pro has no buttons, and I believe only a day/night mode that are automatically selected based on an ambient light sensor.
As someone who rides in the dark, I would think a flash/DRL/ramping power settings would be all you need (maybe 6 total modes?). With some lights offering cell phone apps you could further customize it as necessary though.
As someone who rides in the dark, I would think a flash/DRL/ramping power settings would be all you need (maybe 6 total modes?). With some lights offering cell phone apps you could further customize it as necessary though.
#2
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Low Beam/High Beam/pulsing low beam (for longer run times). If you have too many modes, it become tedious to cycle through the modes to find the one you want.
I like the option to hit a remote button and go to a high beam and back. I don't find it necessary to run a high beam for very long.
Commuting in the dark lends itself to the same type of lighting methodology as driving a car "on a winding mountain road". You switch between modes in a higher risk situation. Like a "T-intersection" or a blind curve. Active participation in lighting modes has help me in multiple car/bike encounters.
I like the option to hit a remote button and go to a high beam and back. I don't find it necessary to run a high beam for very long.
Commuting in the dark lends itself to the same type of lighting methodology as driving a car "on a winding mountain road". You switch between modes in a higher risk situation. Like a "T-intersection" or a blind curve. Active participation in lighting modes has help me in multiple car/bike encounters.
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17 is too many, unless you'll control it with your Garmin or phone or something. It's cumbersome to get to the one you want.
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1. wide open throttle
2. bright enough (at least 300lm)
3. bright enough with occasional blink (if this is your only forward light, good for oncoming traffic after dark). My Cygolite has this but my new Kaidomain light does not
4. daytime blink mode that is noticeable but not irritating
Also I want, turn off without cycling through all the modes, open circuit when off so it doesn't drain the battery over the course of a week,
My new Kaidomain light has 3 levels and two blinks. The first is an SOS blink mode that is not SOS, SOS, SOS but instead SOSOSOSOS... I don't know if this is "correct" but it's the one I use in daylight because the other blink mode is a strobe and I don't actually want to do that to anyone. There's another version of the model that has more modes.
2. bright enough (at least 300lm)
3. bright enough with occasional blink (if this is your only forward light, good for oncoming traffic after dark). My Cygolite has this but my new Kaidomain light does not
4. daytime blink mode that is noticeable but not irritating
Also I want, turn off without cycling through all the modes, open circuit when off so it doesn't drain the battery over the course of a week,
My new Kaidomain light has 3 levels and two blinks. The first is an SOS blink mode that is not SOS, SOS, SOS but instead SOSOSOSOS... I don't know if this is "correct" but it's the one I use in daylight because the other blink mode is a strobe and I don't actually want to do that to anyone. There's another version of the model that has more modes.
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The Magicshine light is pretty expensive and has a short run time in the 100% mode (2 hr). The CREE XM-L2 LEDs actually can be run to 1198 lumens each so it is obvious they have throttled it back a bit to keep from frying the LEDs or making the run times even shorter. What IS NOT a good feature of this light is the replaceable proprietary battery packs made up of two 18650 Li-ion batteries. I looked at the website to see what they are charging for them but they are not listed yet so no price is available. You can bet it will be expensive based on what they charge for other packs.
Two years ago I came across a nice dual CREE Q5 headlight. It has similar features to this light including the size and shape. You can run either LED, both LEDs, and alternating flashing. It uses two 18650 Li-ion batteries. They aren't proprietary so you choose your own batteries and you can replace them with non-proprietary batteries. I choose to use the best batteries I can find which are NCR/Panasonic 3,400 mAh 18650 batteries. I paid $23 for four of them the last time I bought some. It has a discharge indicator though not as sophisticated as the Magicshine one. You can charge it with the batteries in using a USB port. It's not as bright as the Magicshine - 1300 lumens with both LEDs on bright. It cost me $13 w/o batteries. I've looked for it again since but haven't been able to see one like it. I never buy bike lights that use proprietary batteries. Seems like a rip off to me.
Two years ago I came across a nice dual CREE Q5 headlight. It has similar features to this light including the size and shape. You can run either LED, both LEDs, and alternating flashing. It uses two 18650 Li-ion batteries. They aren't proprietary so you choose your own batteries and you can replace them with non-proprietary batteries. I choose to use the best batteries I can find which are NCR/Panasonic 3,400 mAh 18650 batteries. I paid $23 for four of them the last time I bought some. It has a discharge indicator though not as sophisticated as the Magicshine one. You can charge it with the batteries in using a USB port. It's not as bright as the Magicshine - 1300 lumens with both LEDs on bright. It cost me $13 w/o batteries. I've looked for it again since but haven't been able to see one like it. I never buy bike lights that use proprietary batteries. Seems like a rip off to me.
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Personally I have no use for 17 different modes. Give me a high beam, maybe a low beam and a flash mode and I think that's plenty. Actually just a full on and maybe a flash mode would be sufficient.
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I also ride a lot at night. I prefer it because car traffic isn't fun. I use a cheap 3xAA front light on the bars plus two cheap eBay 18650 flashlights on my helmet.
In this configuration, all I need is high, low, and flash on the handlebar front light. I run flash during the day and high at night so I can best see what I'm about to run over.
I also prefer an off mode for when I'm not riding.
In this configuration, all I need is high, low, and flash on the handlebar front light. I run flash during the day and high at night so I can best see what I'm about to run over.
I also prefer an off mode for when I'm not riding.
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Great thread--thanks!
I currently run the following:
1. Ceco F1000 (left handlebar) (1000 lumens claimed): Currently $39.95 on amazon--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing /continuous night mode; three flashing day modes; one walking flashlight mode
2. Cygolite Metro Pro 1100 (helmet) (1110 lumens claimed): Currently $64.75 on amazon--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing/cont. night mode; 2 flashing day modes, 2 cont. day modes
3. Cygolite Trion 1300 (right handlebar) (1300 lumens claimed) Sadly, out of production, but I paid a bit less than $200 I think, and worth every penny--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing/cont. mode, 2 flashing day modes, 1 walking mode
So, I ride almost exclusively in the dark. My quick ride is 90 minutes. If it is really raining and dark, I will use the brightest continuous modes for that ride. Very hard to see here at night in the winter months. If I am on a longer ride, I may have to mix it up. So, if I am going for maybe 5 hours. I will stagger the lights and they will be used on a medium setting usually. I'll start with two of them on medium, which have run times of around 3 hours, and then after about 2 1/2 hours or so, I will turn on usually the Trion 1300, also 3 hours on medium, and I will ride with the initial two as they run out of steam and the Trion at full strength until I get home. I have not done a, like, 8-hour overnight ride in a long time, but if I do again, the principle will be the same. Extend run times by using lower output settings and stagger the lights.
I just say all this to say that I just do not need all these settings. It's overkill for me. I do use one flashing mode during the rare daytime ride, but I personally don't need a bunch of flashing options. It's fine that they are there, but I don't use them.
I make no apology for saying my primary purchasing criterion for a headlight has historically been to buy the brightest possible, quality light for the money. As I say, we struggle to see here at night in the wet months. That said, I am working on buying an StVZO light because a number of Bike Forumers have recommended doing so. So, am doing that. We'll see how that shakes out.
I currently run the following:
1. Ceco F1000 (left handlebar) (1000 lumens claimed): Currently $39.95 on amazon--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing /continuous night mode; three flashing day modes; one walking flashlight mode
2. Cygolite Metro Pro 1100 (helmet) (1110 lumens claimed): Currently $64.75 on amazon--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing/cont. night mode; 2 flashing day modes, 2 cont. day modes
3. Cygolite Trion 1300 (right handlebar) (1300 lumens claimed) Sadly, out of production, but I paid a bit less than $200 I think, and worth every penny--4 continuous night modes, one combo flashing/cont. mode, 2 flashing day modes, 1 walking mode
So, I ride almost exclusively in the dark. My quick ride is 90 minutes. If it is really raining and dark, I will use the brightest continuous modes for that ride. Very hard to see here at night in the winter months. If I am on a longer ride, I may have to mix it up. So, if I am going for maybe 5 hours. I will stagger the lights and they will be used on a medium setting usually. I'll start with two of them on medium, which have run times of around 3 hours, and then after about 2 1/2 hours or so, I will turn on usually the Trion 1300, also 3 hours on medium, and I will ride with the initial two as they run out of steam and the Trion at full strength until I get home. I have not done a, like, 8-hour overnight ride in a long time, but if I do again, the principle will be the same. Extend run times by using lower output settings and stagger the lights.
I just say all this to say that I just do not need all these settings. It's overkill for me. I do use one flashing mode during the rare daytime ride, but I personally don't need a bunch of flashing options. It's fine that they are there, but I don't use them.
I make no apology for saying my primary purchasing criterion for a headlight has historically been to buy the brightest possible, quality light for the money. As I say, we struggle to see here at night in the wet months. That said, I am working on buying an StVZO light because a number of Bike Forumers have recommended doing so. So, am doing that. We'll see how that shakes out.
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More is fine, as long as there's a programmable option to easily cycle between two, like hi-lo beams for cars.
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I like my gloworms with the choice of either three or two levels, each level being user programable in 10% steps. There's a hidden low and flash mode too.
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Another annoyance I have is that some lights don't turn on in the mode you were last using, and you have to cycle through them to get your favorite mode. Some don't have a memorable sequence of modes. I have one that goes medium, high, low, pulse, and flash. That's not intuitive to me, so even if it is to others, let me turn on in the mode I last used.
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The Magicshine light is pretty expensive and has a short run time in the 100% mode (2 hr). The CREE XM-L2 LEDs actually can be run to 1198 lumens each so it is obvious they have throttled it back a bit to keep from frying the LEDs or making the run times even shorter. What IS NOT a good feature of this light is the replaceable proprietary battery packs made up of two 18650 Li-ion batteries. I looked at the website to see what they are charging for them but they are not listed yet so no price is available. You can bet it will be expensive based on what they charge for other packs...
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It seems like a majority of people wouldn't want to spend the time to setup the software and program light modes, unless they made it very easy to use.
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Hope to try some Gloworm lights in the future, the user programmable feature seems like a great option for more expert users. I;m curious how often the programming feature is actually used by users though.
It seems like a majority of people wouldn't want to spend the time to setup the software and program light modes, unless they made it very easy to use.
It seems like a majority of people wouldn't want to spend the time to setup the software and program light modes, unless they made it very easy to use.
#18
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- high beam
- low beam
- daytime running light
- headlight flashing (optional)
#19
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Low, medium, high, and daytime flashing are sufficient for me. I also like the fifth option of a night flashing mode, which can function as a be-seen light without completely blinding people.
Too many options is not desirable for me, as I tend to use multiple modes on the same ride (particularly while commuting). Medium works well for general night riding; I'll use high on super dark roads/MUPs but turn to low to prevent blinding drivers, pedestrians, and other cyclists. A night flashing mode is nice for downtown areas where people are more interested their phones and parking than trying to avoid hitting/being hit by cyclists.
Too many options is not desirable for me, as I tend to use multiple modes on the same ride (particularly while commuting). Medium works well for general night riding; I'll use high on super dark roads/MUPs but turn to low to prevent blinding drivers, pedestrians, and other cyclists. A night flashing mode is nice for downtown areas where people are more interested their phones and parking than trying to avoid hitting/being hit by cyclists.
#20
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Hmmmmmm
Kinda happy with my Edelux's on/off mode with standlight.
YMMV
YMMV
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High & Low.
High & Low.
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#22
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- Three modes: high, low, and daylight flash.
- A single press should cycle between high and low.
- The flash mode should be hidden behind a long press so that it's not entered accidentally.
- The levels should be programmable.
- Decent runtime (at least 3 hours at at least 500 lumens).
- A user-replaceable 18650 battery (but still with a charge port on the light).
- An option of either a rubber strap mount or a hard mount (bonus points for GoPro mount as well).
- A nice beam pattern with horizon cutoff.
- Reversable optics so that I can run the light upside-down under the bars.
- Neutral white beam colour.
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- Three modes: high, low, and daylight flash.
- A single press should cycle between high and low.
- The flash mode should be hidden behind a long press so that it's not entered accidentally.
- The levels should be programmable.
- Decent runtime (at least 3 hours at at least 500 lumens).
- A user-replaceable 18650 battery (but still with a charge port on the light).
- An option of either a rubber strap mount or a hard mount (bonus points for GoPro mount as well).
- A nice beam pattern with horizon cutoff.
- Reversable optics so that I can run the light upside-down under the bars.
- Neutral white beam colour.
Within a few years hopefully there will be the 'perfect' light with all the options, but I doubt companies will want to sell lights with replaceable batteries (easier to package integrated batteries, and better profit margins). I have been seeing more lights with flash being separated by a 'double click' which is a big positive though.
#24
U*icyclist
That's a great list, but I've yet to see a light that satisfies all of those. There are a few lights that get very close like the Fenix BC21R v2.0 (not reversible, not a neutral white, no GoPro mount) like the Magicshine Allty 1000 (no replaceable battery, not reversible). Hopefully the StVZO regulations get adopted by US so we will see more lights with beam cutoff.
Within a few years hopefully there will be the 'perfect' light with all the options, but I doubt companies will want to sell lights with replaceable batteries (easier to package integrated batteries, and better profit margins). I have been seeing more lights with flash being separated by a 'double click' which is a big positive though.
Within a few years hopefully there will be the 'perfect' light with all the options, but I doubt companies will want to sell lights with replaceable batteries (easier to package integrated batteries, and better profit margins). I have been seeing more lights with flash being separated by a 'double click' which is a big positive though.
Lezyne is getting close to the (my) ideal light with their new Connect Smart headlight (the 1000 lumen version). I like the form factor of their lights and the newer ones have quite a nice beam pattern (no cutoff though). Now it's possible to remove all of the useless modes. They also use 18650 batteries (they're not supposed to be user replaceable, but they're easy enough to open up) and theoretically it should be possible to replace the emitters with warmer versions. They just need a few UI tweaks and I'd be sold.
The Gloworm CX is also pretty close to a perfect all-in-one light, but they ruined it by using a proprietary battery pack. It might be possible to replace it with a DIY battery but I've not seen one in person to confirm. Also no beam cutoff and the daylight flash isn't as good as Lezyne's. Very nice optics and beam tint though.
#25
mosquito rancher
I recently got a Lezyne 1100-lumen light, which has something stupid like 7 steady and 2 flashing modes. And only one button to do everything (which I think annoys me more than the number of modes).
It's saving feature is that you can long-press the button to turn it on, and that limits your available modes to maximum, medium, and one flashing mode.
Knog has done something smart by letting you rotate the lamp head left/right to move up/down the output options.
It's saving feature is that you can long-press the button to turn it on, and that limits your available modes to maximum, medium, and one flashing mode.
Knog has done something smart by letting you rotate the lamp head left/right to move up/down the output options.
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