Spray.bike paint?
01-28-20, 06:34 AM
#1
Just call me Carrie
Thread Starter
Spray.bike paint?
I picked up a Shogun 500 yesterday and the paint is really scuffed in several places, but the bike isn’t rusty. (Which is weird for my area, but, whatever.)
I was looking to repaint it myself as a project. It’s currently dark blue with tan. I was looking up the options and came across Spray.bike paint. I want it to be black when I’m done.
Has anyone used it? It looks like the biggest benefit is that it doesn’t drip, making it a little easier to work with than other paint options.
I was looking to repaint it myself as a project. It’s currently dark blue with tan. I was looking up the options and came across Spray.bike paint. I want it to be black when I’m done.
Has anyone used it? It looks like the biggest benefit is that it doesn’t drip, making it a little easier to work with than other paint options.
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01-28-20, 06:52 AM
#2
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I picked up a Shogun 500 yesterday and the paint is really scuffed in several places, but the bike isn’t rusty. (Which is weird for my area, but, whatever.)
I was looking to repaint it myself as a project. It’s currently dark blue with tan. I was looking up the options and came across Spray.bike paint. I want it to be black when I’m done.
Has anyone used it? It looks like the biggest benefit is that it doesn’t drip, making it a little easier to work with than other paint options.
I was looking to repaint it myself as a project. It’s currently dark blue with tan. I was looking up the options and came across Spray.bike paint. I want it to be black when I’m done.
Has anyone used it? It looks like the biggest benefit is that it doesn’t drip, making it a little easier to work with than other paint options.
01-28-20, 07:20 AM
#3
Just call me Carrie
Thread Starter
I came across a video when I watched the GCN guys building a gravel racer. Looked interesting and easier to use than a regular rattle can. I’m not going to try any of the weird designs or anything, just a full black, and maybe make the head tube silver, but it depends on how the black paint goes...
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01-28-20, 07:55 AM
#4
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Start from reply 53 on this thread for more info: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ge-bike-3.html
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01-28-20, 08:29 AM
#5
Just call me Carrie
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Start from reply 53 on this thread for more info: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ge-bike-3.html
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01-28-20, 09:50 AM
#6
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Still doesn't help with understanding if it's worthwhile, but it did help to understand more about the product details. They also have a YouTube channel which you may've already found: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAR...xrdSPVeE3L5K7Q
There's a few videos using the product which aren't sponsored by the channel, and I walked away with mixed reviews.
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01-28-20, 11:12 AM
#7
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These two sentences perfectly describe how I feel about it. I'm leery of how well a good 2K clear with act when its laid over top of the acrylic. There's no problem using original rustoleum enamel as a color base, but many other brands truly are not suitable (in my opinion) for achieving a good hard finish. Then there's the color-match. Spray.Bike has a weird variety of colors and I think they are expecting people to simply go hog wild with patterns and effects instead of replicating the OG paint. Like you, I am dubious for its use in a C&V application.
01-28-20, 12:51 PM
#8
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These two sentences perfectly describe how I feel about it. I'm leery of how well a good 2K clear with act when its laid over top of the acrylic. There's no problem using original rustoleum enamel as a color base, but many other brands truly are not suitable (in my opinion) for achieving a good hard finish. Then there's the color-match. Spray.Bike has a weird variety of colors and I think they are expecting people to simply go hog wild with patterns and effects instead of replicating the OG paint. Like you, I am dubious for its use in a C&V application.
What's also unclear to me is whether or not you can lay waterslides over their base, then use their clear over it. I assume you can, but you know what they say about assuming!
I'm curious also about the longevity of the product based on what I saw in a video, claiming "instructions say to keep whatever's left in the can for touch-ups later, for scratches or the product wearing off".
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01-28-20, 01:07 PM
#9
framebuilder
I doubt my post here is going to helpful because I'm a pro and not an amateur or hobby painter. If I didn't have all my professional equipment I would use Spray Max aerosol can paint. This is a company that makes aerosol cans designed for local automotive paint suppliers to put whatever epoxy type of paint you choose inside. When you punch the bottom button it sends the activator into the paint so it now becomes ready to use. Of course It has to be used within a couple of hours because it hardens by chemical action. Their nozzles are supposed to be superior. And no I don't have a personal testimony since I've never used it myself. There was a subject thread on Paceline a year or so ago where users had found it a good product. To put it another way it is pro paint put in aerosol cans by local suppliers for amateurs to use.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
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01-28-20, 02:45 PM
#10
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Put simply- It is better than spraypaint and worse than powdercoating.
The end result and quality completely depends almost entirely on preparation and a little on execution. It is dead simple to use- the directions for each type(color, clearcoat, primer, etc) varies, but if you follow the directions its pretty tough to mess up.
My first was flat black with a green sparkle flake finish. Its lasted a couple years on a road bike that I use for 30% of my riding as well as being my trainer bike.
spray.bike will not be as smooth as wet paint or quality powdercoat. It will be more durable and therefore look better than spraypaint.
If you want just black- why not powdercoat? A powdercoater near me will do a frame for $75 in colors he has in stock(black being one). If you want to feel like its your project still , then strip the current paint and remove all rust.
A primer, paint, and clear coat for spray.bike is probably $50 once shipping is added in.
01-28-20, 03:10 PM
#11
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I doubt my post here is going to helpful because I'm a pro and not an amateur or hobby painter. If I didn't have all my professional equipment I would use Spray Max aerosol can paint. This is a company that makes aerosol cans designed for local automotive paint suppliers to put whatever epoxy type of paint you choose inside. When you punch the bottom button it sends the activator into the paint so it now becomes ready to use. Of course It has to be used within a couple of hours because it hardens by chemical action. Their nozzles are supposed to be superior. And no I don't have a personal testimony since I've never used it myself. There was a subject thread on Paceline a year or so ago where users had found it a good product. To put it another way it is pro paint put in aerosol cans by local suppliers for amateurs to use.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
I can't say how much that helps out TriBiker19, but I've learned a bunch. These are gems.
01-28-20, 03:11 PM
#12
Full Member
Ive used this on one frame. The Pros: It is easy to use and it looks great. The Cons: it seems just as fragile and easy to chip off as cheap spray paint.
Last edited by SB_Greg; 01-28-20 at 09:38 PM.
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01-28-20, 04:17 PM
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my 2 cents, painting well takes a ton of prep, cost more than you would think and unless you go to the automotive level finishes is not at all durable....which is a pain considering the effort.
Unless you are the ultimate DIY person and want to do it for the learning and experience, I would suggest powder coat,
Unless you are the ultimate DIY person and want to do it for the learning and experience, I would suggest powder coat,
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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01-28-20, 08:13 PM
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I doubt my post here is going to helpful because I'm a pro and not an amateur or hobby painter. If I didn't have all my professional equipment I would use Spray Max aerosol can paint. This is a company that makes aerosol cans designed for local automotive paint suppliers to put whatever epoxy type of paint you choose inside. When you punch the bottom button it sends the activator into the paint so it now becomes ready to use. Of course It has to be used within a couple of hours because it hardens by chemical action. Their nozzles are supposed to be superior. And no I don't have a personal testimony since I've never used it myself. There was a subject thread on Paceline a year or so ago where users had found it a good product. To put it another way it is pro paint put in aerosol cans by local suppliers for amateurs to use.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
What I do know is that I would use a good primer. I love House of Kolor primers because they come in primary colors as well as black, white and gray. This is an advantage if the color paint gets chipped exposing the primer (I mix the primary colors to get closer to the final color) and provides better top color coverage. Some colors like yellow can be very difficult to get full coverage and might require extra coats. In fact the yellow, blue and red H of K primers are good enough colors by themselves to go straight to clean. After the color coats, polyurethane clear in Spray Max can be applied and if necessary buffed to a smoother finish after it has fully cured.
01-28-20, 08:24 PM
#17
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my 2 cents, painting well takes a ton of prep, cost more than you would think and unless you go to the automotive level finishes is not at all durable....which is a pain considering the effort.
Unless you are the ultimate DIY person and want to do it for the learning and experience, I would suggest powder coat,
Unless you are the ultimate DIY person and want to do it for the learning and experience, I would suggest powder coat,
01-28-20, 08:28 PM
#18
Just call me Carrie
Thread Starter
If you want to try spray.bike on a Shogun...I'll buy the supplies and prep the frame to your specs. I just want to see how you do it and meet your wife.
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01-28-20, 08:32 PM
#19
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You might be better off with a shed. I saw one on the side of the road a couple months ago. Add a couple of propane heaters that get removed during the painting process and voila! Granted, this means you probably need a large truck to move it, but you mentioned plowing at one point, so that might not be a problem.
If you want to try spray.bike on a Shogun...I'll buy the supplies and prep the frame to your specs. I just want to see how you do it and meet your wife.
If you want to try spray.bike on a Shogun...I'll buy the supplies and prep the frame to your specs. I just want to see how you do it and meet your wife.
01-28-20, 10:40 PM
#20
Senior Member
I have had a half dozen bikes powder coated at $80 each. The guy I use does an excellent job. If you have a frame that is worth a few bucks I would go for powder coat instead of rattle can. I have painted a few frames using Rustoleum wheel paint. It works ok but not nearly as well as powder coat.
01-29-20, 01:18 AM
#21
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All the paint jobs I've seen done with that stuff have an almost textured look; intentional orange peel or something. I can't imagine ever wanting that look on one of my bikes, but if that's what you happen to be going for, then have at it.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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01-29-20, 02:41 AM
#22
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I sprayed up a bike for my son with it. It looks good, but he hasn't started riding it yet, so can't speak to durability.
Very easy to spray on.
Very easy to spray on.
01-29-20, 06:01 AM
#23
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Wow that's a great price, especially if you are happy with it. The last one I had done was $140, and the finish was really bad. There's a place down in Massholia called Pike Powder Coating that charges $287 for a frame and fork, but their work is very thorough and top notch.
01-29-20, 08:08 AM
#24
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It may looks really good (for a repaint) and it is pretty easy to spray.
Polishing phase is important in my opinion (have to wait a little after painting, and then polish with a soft piece of clothes)
But any impact and the paint will be damaged. This is the reason why I will probably not do a second one but go directly to car/bike painting specialist. (no project ongoing)
You have to handle the bike carefully.
This is the bike i have made for my wife from an old scott arapahoe. (she uses it when we travel with our Camper)
Polishing phase is important in my opinion (have to wait a little after painting, and then polish with a soft piece of clothes)
But any impact and the paint will be damaged. This is the reason why I will probably not do a second one but go directly to car/bike painting specialist. (no project ongoing)
You have to handle the bike carefully.
This is the bike i have made for my wife from an old scott arapahoe. (she uses it when we travel with our Camper)
01-29-20, 08:41 AM
#25
Just call me Carrie
Thread Starter
Wow that's a great price, especially if you are happy with it. The last one I had done was $140, and the finish was really bad. There's a place down in Massholia called Pike Powder Coating that charges $287 for a frame and fork, but their work is very thorough and top notch.
I've read that the issue with powder coating is that if you don't realize that there's a spot where water/corrosive liquid can get under it, it can eat out the frame without the owner noticing. Is that not the case?
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