Specialized Roll Comp & Elite
#101
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I agree with what you are saying. The seems to be rhyme or reason to the parts selection on these bikes. Has to be the bean counters writing the spec sheets. On another note, has anyone determined the BB used on the Elite? I didn't look close when I was taking my test ride but it looks like a PF30 in the pics. I'm just trying to put together a parts list so i know what I'll need when I start the upgrade.
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The specs on the website lists the cranks as "square taper", and I think the frame itself uses an old school square taper bottom bracket. It'll be a sealed cartridge type that just threads in from one side (very likely the drive side), but I think it's just a standard square taper unit.
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Thanks for the confirmation, my LBS website shows as 2016/2017 specs that must be for the 2016 model. Freewheel rear hub with cogs and PF30 BB. The Specialized website for 2018 lists the BSA BB and cassette hub. I can't find the 2017 specs anywhere. I went back the the store manager today to check as well. He said he actually pulled the rear wheel and put on a 10 speed cassette, also checked to make sure it had a screw in BB. Looks like it is a 3x8 with cable discs so an easy conversion to 3x9 or 2x10. Changing the wheel hub and converting a PF30 BB would put the cost at more than converting a Comp X1. I'm not afraid of the work involved, just trying to get to a 2x10 all Deore or SLX drive train the cheapest way.
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2017 roll elite
CHAIN KMC X8, 8-speed w/reusable MissingLink
BOTTOM BRACKET BSA, square taper, cartridge bearings
CRANKSET Stout, forged alloy
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Tourney, top swing, 31.8mm band clamp
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Altus, EZ Fire Plus, 8-speed
CASSETTE Sunrace, 8-speed, 11-34t
CHAINRINGS 48/38/28T w/chainguard
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Altus, SGS cage
I think you would be better off going with the comp x1 and converting 1x10 to 2x10 (just my 2 cents) I'm thinking of doing the same thing . I just bought a Roll comp x1
you can find the specs on specialized web site at the bottom of the page under bike archive link
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...t=#result-list
CHAIN KMC X8, 8-speed w/reusable MissingLink
BOTTOM BRACKET BSA, square taper, cartridge bearings
CRANKSET Stout, forged alloy
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Tourney, top swing, 31.8mm band clamp
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Altus, EZ Fire Plus, 8-speed
CASSETTE Sunrace, 8-speed, 11-34t
CHAINRINGS 48/38/28T w/chainguard
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Altus, SGS cage
I think you would be better off going with the comp x1 and converting 1x10 to 2x10 (just my 2 cents) I'm thinking of doing the same thing . I just bought a Roll comp x1
you can find the specs on specialized web site at the bottom of the page under bike archive link
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...t=#result-list
Last edited by DCByton; 03-16-18 at 12:31 AM.
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and
I agree it would be easier to convert the Comp X1 than the Elite. You would still need a new BB, 2X crankset, front derailleur and cable. $150-200. Add that to the $850 starting price and you are over $1000. The 2017 Elite is on closeout at $569, add $300-350 for parts, still around $900. The only difference would be the hydraulic brakes. Not much difference in the bikes when finished.
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I see, only if you get a smoking deal on a 2017. The thought of that never entered my mind lol. my shop didn't have any closeouts tho. Any how it sounds like you have it covered.
What BB and crank set would you use ?
you use a out side bearing threaded type makes life easier requires new cranks
What BB and crank set would you use ?
you use a out side bearing threaded type makes life easier requires new cranks
Last edited by DCByton; 03-27-18 at 02:03 PM.
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In my case the options are to use the existing crankset and change the chain rings out to 10 speed 42t/32t's, which will be the cheapest. Or change out the BB/crankset to one that works with a Shimano 2X10. I don't pick up the bike till the 26th so I can't take a caliper to it to check. If you wish I will let you know when I'm sure. You can probably just get a set of 3X10 cranks to use the existing square taper BB you have. Then you will need 10 speed chain rings of your choice. I will change both front and rear derailleurs and shifters to Deore or SXT. You just need the front setup and you are golden.
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A freehub. Related info on sheldonbrown.com.
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A freehub. Related info on sheldonbrown.com.
#111
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Looking at the 2018 comp X 1. Low entry. 69 years old and really having trouble getting my leg over my Surly Disc Trucker. Thinking the low entry might be an option. Thoughts ?
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#112
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I found that swinging my leg up from the back on the diamond frame did not present any problems, and dismounting was similarly straightforward.
As always, your mileage may vary, offer void in states with active consumer fraud statutes, patent pending.
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BTW, speaking of complaints, there was at least one recall on some Roll models. I've coveted a Roll 8 for years and remember stumbling on that info when I was searching for the recalls issued on my Trek DS a couple of years ago.
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I love those tires. They're essentially blackwall versions (no stripe) of the Big Ben. I wish they made them in more sizes..
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#117
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I just finished the MS-150 with my Roll Sport. 149.3 miles from Duluth, MN to Saint Paul, MN. Over 3000 riders but I didn't see anybody else riding one.
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I suspect you are confusing the current Roll with the totally different older bike that was also (confusingly!) called 'Roll' - maybe Globe Roll ??
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Good on you for doing the ride! however it doesn't really surprise me you didn't see another Roll on a 150 mile journey :-)
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#121
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Got my Roll Comp x 1 on May 19th. Low entry. Took it for a couple of short rides the next couple of days before going out of town for a while. Rode yesterday to do some errands and I'm loving this bike. No more pain getting on and off of the bike. Being able to stop and put my foot down without getting off the saddle if I choose, It really is a great bike for this 69 year old with hip and knee replacements. I don't hesitate now to "jump" on and ride at any time. I highly recommend this bike for anyone, but especially for those of us looking for comfort and ease of riding. My fast days are probably over and that's ok.
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The Roll is indeed comfortable for shortish periods of time, but for extended periods, more of your weight than normal is on your sit bones, and not distributed as much via your wrists, and to a lesser extent, by your legs pushing in a more directly downwards direction.
Also, the crank forward design can put more strain on some people's knees than a conventional geometry. Might not be an issue for shorter, more leisurely journeys, but a Roll wouldn't be my 1st choice for a 150 mile run!!
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Cruiser type bikes aren't really designed for efficient, long distance riding.
The Roll is indeed comfortable for shortish periods of time, but for extended periods, more of your weight than normal is on your sit bones, and not distributed as much via your wrists, and to a lesser extent, by your legs pushing in a more directly downwards direction.
Also, the crank forward design can put more strain on some people's knees than a conventional geometry. Might not be an issue for shorter, more leisurely journeys, but a Roll wouldn't be my 1st choice for a 150 mile run!!
The Roll is indeed comfortable for shortish periods of time, but for extended periods, more of your weight than normal is on your sit bones, and not distributed as much via your wrists, and to a lesser extent, by your legs pushing in a more directly downwards direction.
Also, the crank forward design can put more strain on some people's knees than a conventional geometry. Might not be an issue for shorter, more leisurely journeys, but a Roll wouldn't be my 1st choice for a 150 mile run!!
i’m committed to a metric century on my Roll by the end of summer. I’ll let you know if my ass falls off.
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I’m not saying it’s the most efficient, i’m just saying it’s a perfectly comfortable ride if you’re not in a hurry. As someone else pointed out in another thread, Thomas Stevens circumnavigated the globe on a 50” Ordinary (Penny-farthing). Granted, it took him from April of 1884 to December of 1886 to do it...
i’m committed to a metric century on my Roll by the end of summer. I’ll let you know if my ass falls off.
And an ass just gets sore, but recovers. If it was me, I'd be more worried about my knees, but then I'm one of those people who does suffer because of the Rolls crank forward geometry.
Good luck with your century though. Just take it easy ok!!