rapattack

I had a close look at the brake pads and they sit right on the wheel. Is this right? Aren't they supposed to be at least a mm from the wheel? Not touching the wheel if you know what i mean. They are not tightly pushing on the wheel but there is a screech. I adjusted on side but noticed that the other side sit closer and was not adjustable. I even tried to lengthen the brake cable but that made no difference. I checked a few youtube videos but it is hard to see the gap the brake pad has from the wheel or indeed that is what is supposed to happen. I only started riding a bike again in the last few months after 20 years of not having anything to do with them so i am learning anew and appreciate any advice.

nwbikeman

First undo the brakes quick release and make sure the wheel is centered. Then remount the quick release or cable to the brake and make sure the return spring hasn't come undone when releasing the brake. There are screws or a small allens on each side of the brake this is what balances out the springs return of the brake. Then tighten up the side that is rubbing the wheel until both sides are evenly spaced to the rim.

FBinNY 

Yes, you seem to have a bit of a problem, and if it weren't for the photo's I wouldn't have been able to know what you were talking about. So first a bit of a glossary.

Wheel refers to the entire thing, including (working from center out) the hub, spokes, rim and tire. In some cases it might refer th the entire wheel without the tire, as in when you mount a tire onto the wheel.

Your brakes should touch on the rim and rim only, not touching the tire at all, and not hanging below the rim either. If you continue to ride with it as it is, the brake shoe will cut through the tire causing a blowout.

If the bike is fairly new, and was set up this way the shop did sloppy work, and I'd go back and ask them to correct it. Otherwise, you and loosen and reposition the shoe lower. When you do so, trap a piece of cardboard, or a rubber band under the rear of the shoe holding it a bit off the rim. This will create toe-in and prevent brake squeal.

BTW- and this is important, before you start, if you removed the wheel, it's just as possible you didn't put it back all the way up into the fork, so before moving the shoes, stand the bike on the floor, open the quick release jiggle the wheel to settle it home (gravity pushes the fork down onto the wheel), then adjust and close the QR. Now re-check the show height, and correct if necessary.

rapattack

nwbikeman-The wheel was centered when i did a 'bike maintenance' course a couple of months ago so i know it is not that. I ride everyday but not as much as most people because of my medical condition. The bike is an ebike because of my lack of energy. I don't have a quick release. I can do another check tomorrow when i feel a bit better to make sure.
What i don't understand about this breaking mechanism is that one side/arm doesn't not move. Yes i can undo the pads and reposition but more on one side that the other because of the restriction of one arm being stationery. I don't know if this is the norm as i come from the days of back pedal breaks. So i was able to move the pad off one wheel(the metal part where it is supposed to touch when braking) but not the other side. Well it might be a hair further away.

FBinNY-Yeah i thought photos would help as i don't know the terminology yet. Well not all of it. No the brake pads are not touching the tyre(sorry that is how we spell tire in Australia like the english he he). I can understand where the brake pad is supposed to touch as i google a lot of videos.
The bike is maybe near 2 years old and i bought it as an ex-rental a few months ago. Only 1 month warranty :0)
Oh i like your tips to get the toe-in to happen. Thats good. I took the bike out today and i didn't hear any squeeking at all but the brake pads would engage differently so i am not sure if that is a good indication.
OK will check the bike wheel before i ride tomorrow because it is important i get it right. Love these tips. Puzzled that the arms though of the braking system are different on either side. One stationery and one movable

rapattack

This is my bike btw https://www.electricbicycle.com.au/fo...ike-flash.html

Road Fan

Rap, I think your now-repositioned brake pads sound different just because they are hitting the rim at different parts. They will wear into their new patterns. As it does so it will seem more and more "right," if you followed FB's criteria.

I like his toe-in tip, too.

rapattack

Yeah but one is still sitting on the wheel(metal part) and the other is not. Doesn't seem as hard against it as before though. Yeah can't do anything more with what i have except the checking of the wheel which i will do tomorrow but i doubt that is it as it was checked before :0)

rapattack

Well checked the wheel and that is all good. I can't seem to figure out how to get the brake pads further away from the wheel rim/metal part. If i adjust the cable then the handle bar part takes longer to grip if you know what i mean. Part of the part is exposed also when engaging the handlebar braking.
I was wrong when i said that one side of the system is stationery and one side not. I dunno i get so tired i sometimes don't access things correctly.

jsharr

When adjusting toe in, I like FB in NY will use a spacer. I use pennies, as they are non compressable and a trigger clamp to hold the pennies / pads to the rim.

https://www.stanleytools.com/default....Trigger+Clamps

Steev

You should also check that both brake arms are freely pivoting.
Your brakes do have a form of quick release, you can unhook the noodle. Do this and see if both arms are free to move (they have a return spring).
Once you have established the arms are moving freely, hook the noodle back up and then you can adjust the centering using the screws near the pivots.
How far the pads retract from the rims is a function of cable tension, so if you let off some tension to back the pads away from the rims, you will have more lever travel before the pads engage, but this is not a bad thing as you can exert more force with your fingers as your hands becomes more clenched, just make sure the levers will not bottom out on the grips before the brakes are fully applied.
While your working at this, a good inspection of the condition of the cables and housing is in order, especially on an ex-rental that may have not had the greatest of servicing in its former life.

rapattack

Yes they are pivoting freely and i can unhook the noodle easily. I learnt from the course i did. You know what i think it is. There is too much of whatever in between the pad rubber bit and where it fastens. Really i think that is the only way they are going to sit off the rim instead of leaning on it all the time. Just my opinion :0)
Yeah i understand what your saying about the levers and the grip. When i adjust it to the ideal i have to grip all the way which is not good. Plus the action of doing this is not good because my reaction time is impaired due to my disability. No good if i have to brake suddenly!
Yes your right. I think i will take it to 'bike club' which is a community thing in sydney and get them to take a looksie. Thanks so much!!!!

JTGraphics

Also check the return spring the make sure one is not broken and also make sure they are both in the same hole you should see 3 holes make sure both springs are in the same one most often the middle the adjusters seem to be way out also so very little tension is on them try screwing them in a little more and you may get better feedback from the levers and they will move more evenly.

rapattack

Is that spring on the handbars? Sorry i don't know all the terminology. I tried adjusting them but i was not good at seeing if there is any difference. I am just not experienced enough with this type of braking system. I am from the old days of back pedal brakes. I think will take it to someone that can show me :0) Can't afford a bike shop look over so a free community place is the go :0)

JTGraphics

No each arm that the pads are connected to were the screw that holds them on has a coiled spring if you look on the back side you will see were the 3 holes are that the spring is in.

rapattack

Ohhhhh ok will have a look now

JTGraphics

Here is some helpfull video for you https://bicycletutor.com/adjust-v-brakes/

rapattack

Oh yes that video is good thanks. That explains more about what i need to do. Will get on that when i get back from a ride later. Gotta get to the post office before it shuts :0)

JTGraphics

good luck

rapattack

Hmmmm well it is a little better but i think i might be better off taking some of the washers away like in that video