RowdyTI

I've heard from some manufacturers that no grease is needed. When I got a replacement QR from my LBS, I was told to install it without grease and not to overthink it. My current thru axles have a light coating of grease on them and on their threads. I've read conflicting opinions on whether to put grease on the tube, the threads, whether to use anti-seize (supposedly better), or whether to use nothing at all.

What do you do?

I've also read having something on the threads like grease or anti-seize makes it so that perceived tightness actually is higher torque since the substance lubricates the threads and allows a tighter connection with less applied torque.

Any thoughts?

dsbrantjr

I routinely use grease on similar-metal threaded joints, and Tef-Gel on dissimilar-metal joints unless specifically stated to the contrary by the OEM; auto lug nuts/bolts are notable examples. I am also careful to clean both male and female threads before lubing and mating. So, my default choice is "not dry".

RowdyTI

I've also read beeswax works well on the threads to keep them tight and free of any issues over the long haul. I store my bikes indoors so it's another benefit avoiding products with fumes when possible. For instance, my Permatex anti-seize has a warning against inhalation, and it's messy. Beeswax is benign and I think the wax would work at least as well as anything else. One man said it helped his axle to stop loosening up during riding. He applied it to the threads, and you could put a thin layer on the tube as well.

jimincalif

I always lube any threads that I expect to undo in the future, which of course includes thru-axles. I've had my front thru axle start to loosen up just once shortly after I got the bike, so I'm not sure how well it was tightened. Occasionally when I oil the chain I will remember to check them, but have never had a problem with them loosening up.

ScottRiqui

This is true. If you look at torque charts for various sizes of fasteners, the "oiled" torque values for a particular size fastener are often about 25% lower than the "dry" torque values. In other words, a torque reading of 75 lbf-ft with an oiled fastener gives you the same clamping force as 100 lbf-ft applied to a dry fastener.

Crankycrank

IMO lube is not necessary since you're most likely to get a flat and remove the wheel before corrosion sets in. I would stay away from anti-seize for your axles as it is messy and hard to get off your hands which is a PITA in the middle of a ride. Also not a big deal but any grease will collect dirt if you happen to drop the wheel in mud/dirt while it's off. Best IMO is to use some waxy type lube. Not anything to lose sleep over whatever you choose to do though.

bikeaddiction1

I completely agree. I have had through axles on my mountain bikes since 2013 and do nothing more than make sure they are clean when I put them in. I also have them on my gravel bike which can get pretty dirty and am on my third season with it I have not had any issues. On mountain and gravel bikes you are much more likely to have mud and grime, but when you pull the axle it is clean. I personally would not put grease on as it is a dust magnet. I remove my wheels when I do a big clean, which is whenever my bikes get dirty and there is no corrosion issues. I also suspect the quality of anodizing on the axles is a little better than many other components due to their application, possible hard anodized.

RowdyTI

I appreciate all the useful replies. I think this quote above is why my wheel performs slightly better in a lab environment when I close down the screws just until they are snug versus trying to get them truly tight. Because my threads are lubricated, so just when I feel that first resistance and they become snug, that seems best in my case versus trying to go any further with my multi-tool.

This subjective torque level probably is lower than most use, but if they're not using any lubricant on the threads then maybe we're about the same.

Here he says "quite a firm turn" to get the torque level right, but I doubt he's taking into account the added torque provided by lubricating the threads (as he suggests):


So I believe I have the best results going as far as he goes before the last "firm turn" he does. I think that last turn is if the threads are dry.

There was a member on here a while back called RydaBent with lots of experience who strongly advised against over-tightening QR skewers because that tends to put too much pressure on the bearings.

And it's my subjective analysis that the wheel rolls slightly better in my lab when I don't try to achieve max torque. The thru axle is clear in stating there's a max torque level, but no minimum is stated.

When I get on the bike and ride it, there's going to be some marginal expansion and the tightness against the bearings will increase a bit as well.

We'll see if I have any issues with my screws loosening, but I really doubt it.