Soil_Sampler

https://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/c...og_english.htm

Triple8Sol

The Surly is beefy.

issa_pinklion

ive been riding an ldg hammer fgfs and ive been doing bunnyhops and lots of skids and fakies and **** so i have an idea of what is pretty durable or not on a fixed gear bike, usually on fgfs you mostly use bmx parts because they can take a beating but there are some fixed gear essentials, like a fixed cog (obviously), ive been using a 15t all city cog for a while, i had it on a track bike running a 50/15 ratio and putting some pretty hard strain on it doing sprints and what not. Snapping kmc chains regularely and snapping an izumi chain once, even after using that cog for a while i slapped it onto my fgfs and it holds up pretty good, i bike to work and school regularly and ride recreationally, constantly beating my bike up from spilling and eating **** so much doing tricks and the cog holds up pretty good

79pmooney

Spot welding a steel cog to an aluminum hub ? You know something I don't?

I'd bet JB weld could make a permanent repair IF you prep both surfaces so they are very well roughed up and VERY clean and you use lots of JB. Lots. Fill the flange gap entirely. Make a JB fillet covering all of the locknut thread and extending up far onto the cogs. (So everything from a little below the spoke holes to the outer edge of the locknut threads needs to be squeaky clean and all the anodizing sanded off. The cog needs to be squeaky clean as well and sanded to the height you sanded the hub flange on both sides. And of course, plenty of JB on the super clean threads. Do your best to get an entire tube on there. Oh, and mix it up really well, like for several times the time it takes to mix it to uniform color and consistency.

If it were me, I'd use Marine Tex. I know more about it than JB Weld and trust it more. I'd still do all of the above.

Then do your best to keep the temperature extremes the wheel see as small as possible. Aluminum expands and shrinks a lot more than steel.

Edit: I'd use an UAI cog unless I got inside info that that there was a harder one. They hold up well. I also like that they have very square teeth that really don't like to throw even way too slack chains. Drawback - square, super reliable non-throwing chains are not inherently super quiet. I like my chains to stay on. I also notice a lot of track racers run them. I don't see Surleys there. My Surleys scare me and I only run them on my bike with a Sugino 75 and then not for major descents. (I've been hearing others beside myself who also feel they are better cogs, maybe longer lasting than the Dura-Ace cogs. I've run some Dura-Ace. Decent cogs but I feel the UAIs are a step up.

Ben

79pmooney

The two Surleys I"ve bought were both thinner than any of my UAI cogs and had teeth with dressed edges. Quiet, yes. Beefy, no. Confidence inspiring going down high RPM descents with less that perfectly round crankset, no. See my post above.

Ben

Trakhak

I stripped the hub on my first track bike (in 1965; French-threaded hub, BSA-threaded cog). The veteran mechanic at the shop where my parents bought the bike for me wrapped the hub threads with aluminum foil and reinstalled the cog. I rode the bike for another five years; the cog never moved.

Just realized that this is a 10-year-old zombie thread.

ethet 

Do you mean EAI cogs? If so, I completely agree. I remain extremely impressed by Euro-Asia Imports cogs in comparison to the many others I have tried over the years (Soma, Surly, All City, OEM, et-cetera).

Edit:
Whoa... *turns red in embarrassment* ...nevermind :|

79pmooney

Yes.

brooklyn6640

Hi what do you mean with:
yeah, don't use a stripped hub.

brooklyn6640

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