Two Wheelsets - Use of Each
#26
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oh man..I guess I’m not nearly as methodical. It takes me 10-15 minutes for a tubeless swap lol.
pop tire, dump old sealant in grass, put on new tire, pour new sealant in before seating last bit of tire on rim, hit it with compressor and give it a few whirls to get the sealant around the beads. Works every time.
I'm planning/budgeting on a 2nd wheelset for the gravel rig. I'll keep one set as my usual with slick/faster tires....the other would stay stock with tubed knobbies/studs for offroad/winter/ice.
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oh man..I guess I’m not nearly as methodical. It takes me 10-15 minutes for a tubeless swap lol.
pop tire, dump old sealant in grass, put on new tire, pour new sealant in before seating last bit of tire on rim, hit it with compressor and give it a few whirls to get the sealant around the beads. Works every time.
#29
Junior Member
Guess it all depends on what type of wheelset someone would be getting as a second set. A $200 wheelset would be worth it, but that sealant could also be 8 years of tire changes if you were to compare it to getting a set of solid carbon wheels as a backup
#30
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changing tires isn't riding.
btw if the effort put towards tire changing was put towards making money. A nice second set of Carbon hoops, would be as affordable as the $200 cheap wheelset.
btw if the effort put towards tire changing was put towards making money. A nice second set of Carbon hoops, would be as affordable as the $200 cheap wheelset.
#31
Senior Member
I have a set of 28mm tires that I may run on the neighborhood roads. I bought the 28mm tires thinking I might do some commuting. I may swap back to a more typical Cyclocross tire 32-33mm once I wear out the 28mm tires. Trying to decide if I want to spend the money for tubless rims for the smaller tires.
I wonder if guys running two sets of tires, swap out their Cassettes and discs, or buy extra ones?
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-24-18 at 07:27 AM.
#32
Junior Member
My guess would be running a full setup. A 2nd cassette and brakes. You may also want slightly harder hearing for the road setup. Or at least not as large of a low gear.
#33
Senior Member
Second rotors and cassette. Different cassettes ranges for each for a slight benefit. One of my sets are TL so swapping tires is not as easy.
Did the same for my 26 inch flat bar years ago minus the rotors (rim brakes). 1.75 Marathons and various 2.10 MTB tires, these were both tubed so swapping tires was quick and easy and I did that but a few years ago everyone was selling off their 26 inch stuff and wheels were CHEAP so why not.
If I find a deal on decent 27.5 wheels, I'll consider on my XC too, not for the road but depending on the trail conditions.
I have no problem swapping sets for the best experience for that day.
Last edited by u235; 10-20-18 at 08:13 AM.
#35
Senior Member
Did you Shoota?
The OP asked specifically about 2 wheelsets for a “gravel bike” in the Cyclocross and Gravelbike (Recreational) Forum.
The environment a person rides their bike in typically determines the bikes and tires they use. Some people have more bikes, some people may adapt their bikes to different conditions by swapping out tires, both methods work. I think your contextual issues are your own not mine.
Thanks to u235 and Chris(NJ) for answering my quesrion about outfitting extra tire sets. I am finding that I may not need the big ring on my lighter bike. So I may use a cassette with smaller cogs on the narrower tires.
The OP asked specifically about 2 wheelsets for a “gravel bike” in the Cyclocross and Gravelbike (Recreational) Forum.
The environment a person rides their bike in typically determines the bikes and tires they use. Some people have more bikes, some people may adapt their bikes to different conditions by swapping out tires, both methods work. I think your contextual issues are your own not mine.
Thanks to u235 and Chris(NJ) for answering my quesrion about outfitting extra tire sets. I am finding that I may not need the big ring on my lighter bike. So I may use a cassette with smaller cogs on the narrower tires.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-20-18 at 10:20 PM.
#37
Senior Member
Apparently there are those who will continue to discuss “road bikes” in the Cyclocross and Gravel Bike (Recreational) Forum. The OP specifically asked about changing wheelsets for gravel bikes vs using a road bike on the road, which opens discussion to all sorts of comparisons. I certainly was not the first poster to discuss gravel/cyclocross wheelsets in this post, which perks my curiosity as to why my post was singled out?
Modifying Cyclocross or Gravel Bikes for road use is just as valid as modifying Road Bikes for gravel or cyclocross use, especially on the Cyclocross and Gravel Biking (Recreational) Forum. Unless of course there is some other agenda.
There are a growing number of people who ride Cyclocross and Gravel bikes, specifically because they do not find riding on US public roads enjoyable or safe. The number of bikes on US roads is much smaller than in other countries. One might argue this is specifically because of the lack of bike lanes that make riding on public roads safer.
There seems to be pent up emotion towards a specific point of view on this forum. Maybe there needs to be a Forum for that discussion?
Modifying Cyclocross or Gravel Bikes for road use is just as valid as modifying Road Bikes for gravel or cyclocross use, especially on the Cyclocross and Gravel Biking (Recreational) Forum. Unless of course there is some other agenda.
There are a growing number of people who ride Cyclocross and Gravel bikes, specifically because they do not find riding on US public roads enjoyable or safe. The number of bikes on US roads is much smaller than in other countries. One might argue this is specifically because of the lack of bike lanes that make riding on public roads safer.
There seems to be pent up emotion towards a specific point of view on this forum. Maybe there needs to be a Forum for that discussion?
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-21-18 at 07:22 AM.
#38
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Umm because you quoted him, so he replied to that. He didn't single you out, you singled him out. ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
and then because you also failed to read the Original Post, go read it again and then read down chronologically.
and then because you also failed to read the Original Post, go read it again and then read down chronologically.
#39
Senior Member
Actually I did not single anyone out, I simply continued the discussion on the same track it was already on. Quoting someone does not imply anything as far as I know. It simply provides the context for discussion and gives credit where due.
On the other hand accussing someone of not reading the original post, is a blatant accusation!
IMHO ( in my humble opinion) any further discussion should be moved to the road bike or hybrid forum. On all the forums I am aware of the name of the forum is the determiner of where specific information should be posted. I am not suggesting that the OP was off topic as his post contained a comparison of wheelsets for gravel & road bikes.
On the other hand accussing someone of not reading the original post, is a blatant accusation!
IMHO ( in my humble opinion) any further discussion should be moved to the road bike or hybrid forum. On all the forums I am aware of the name of the forum is the determiner of where specific information should be posted. I am not suggesting that the OP was off topic as his post contained a comparison of wheelsets for gravel & road bikes.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-21-18 at 02:23 PM.
#40
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OP here, thought I would get us back on track ;-)
I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
#41
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IMHO ( in my humble opinion) any further discussion should be moved to the road bike or hybrid forum. On all the forums I am aware of the name of the forum is the determiner of where specific information should be posted. I am not suggesting that the OP was off topic as his post contained a comparison of wheelsets for gravel & road bikes.
All good though—happy riding!
P.S. was 0 Celsius where I live this morning and I must be getting older because the same clothing I used last year down to -5C was not cutting it :-(
#42
Senior Member
Right Noonievut,
There are frost warnings in the area I ride in. I am finding the same thing as I age too. Thinking about a post concerning winter clothing suggestions. I am thinking I may need some form of cover for my face to make it through the winters in GA MTNs. Getting older is tough.
It sounds from your post above that we are looking at similar tires for paved/gravel combinations. The tires that came on my Cyclocross bike are nobbies of about that same size. I would like to save my 40mm+ WTB Nano nobbies for the many forest roads that run through all the parks around me and run a more typical Cyclocross “dry” tire with grippy edges on the paved/gravel. Will be discussing this with the guys at Cartecay Bikes in the next few days. I doubt the rims that came on my bike can be made tubeless. I am sold on the convience of tubeless.
There are frost warnings in the area I ride in. I am finding the same thing as I age too. Thinking about a post concerning winter clothing suggestions. I am thinking I may need some form of cover for my face to make it through the winters in GA MTNs. Getting older is tough.
It sounds from your post above that we are looking at similar tires for paved/gravel combinations. The tires that came on my Cyclocross bike are nobbies of about that same size. I would like to save my 40mm+ WTB Nano nobbies for the many forest roads that run through all the parks around me and run a more typical Cyclocross “dry” tire with grippy edges on the paved/gravel. Will be discussing this with the guys at Cartecay Bikes in the next few days. I doubt the rims that came on my bike can be made tubeless. I am sold on the convience of tubeless.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-21-18 at 09:59 PM.
#43
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OP here, thought I would get us back on track ;-)
I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
Im looking for a second set for my gravel bike but for different reasons. My bike came with bottom of the barrel wheels. So Im looking for a good lightweight option and will use the ones that came with the bike as a trainer wheel (on the turbo) and maybe a set of slicks for the longer exploring routes in the summer.
-Sean
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For what it is worth, I can change tubeless tires a little faster than tubed tires. I use skinnystrippers (basically a latex strip that goes around the rim and ends up bonding to the tire) to - in effect - create a klind of tubular tire from my tubeless tires. I can take the tire off the wheel with the tire still holding (a little) air and pop on another tire without touching the sealant or using a tube. Its a nice unexpected side affect from these latex strips.
#46
Senior Member
This makes perfect sense for those 100 milers that you dont feel like racing to the end but rather explore along the way.
Im looking for a second set for my gravel bike but for different reasons. My bike came with bottom of the barrel wheels. So Im looking for a good lightweight option and will use the ones that came with the bike as a trainer wheel (on the turbo) and maybe a set of slicks for the longer exploring routes in the summer.
-Sean
Im looking for a second set for my gravel bike but for different reasons. My bike came with bottom of the barrel wheels. So Im looking for a good lightweight option and will use the ones that came with the bike as a trainer wheel (on the turbo) and maybe a set of slicks for the longer exploring routes in the summer.
-Sean
Last edited by u235; 10-22-18 at 12:00 PM.
#48
Senior Member
For what it is worth, I can change tubeless tires a little faster than tubed tires. I use skinnystrippers (basically a latex strip that goes around the rim and ends up bonding to the tire) to - in effect - create a klind of tubular tire from my tubeless tires. I can take the tire off the wheel with the tire still holding (a little) air and pop on another tire without touching the sealant or using a tube. Its a nice unexpected side affect from these latex strips.
I am tempted to, some might say, go off topic “again”. It seems we are heading towards a discussion of wheel rims and making tires tubless. Though the OP did mention having rims built maybe I should ask the OP if this is an acceptable direction for his post. I can always start a new thread rather than move further off topic. I was just thinking this might be of interest to the OP too?
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-24-18 at 07:46 AM.
#49
Senior Member
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding. A traditional road that is paved with cars, a paved MUP, paved bicycle lane separate or integrated into a car lane, a paved trail through the woods. I do a lot of riding on pavement but most is not a road. An example is I do a century that is about 50 miles of gravel/dirt path (canal, not a gravel road) and about 50 miles of pavement, of that 50 miles of pavement only about 5 miles of it is actual road sharing with cars. My routine most common ride is about 40 miles. 15 road, 20 paved MUP, and 5 gravel/dirt trail. I guess in the end, it doesn't matter what people call it or even if people try to categorize it. I know the conditions of the route and select the best bike and tire I have for it. Maybe in the end, if you are truly riding on a road and stay there, the conditions are pretty static and you know exactly what you need and other than relatively slight changes in type of pavement, one tire works for 99% of what you would come across. Anything other than a traditional paved road and it widely depends.
#50
Senior Member
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding. A traditional road that is paved with cars, a paved MUP, paved bicycle lane separate or integrated into a car lane, a paved trail through the woods. I do a lot of riding on pavement but most is not a road. An example is I do a century that is about 50 miles of gravel/dirt path (canal, not a gravel road) and about 50 miles of pavement, of that 50 miles of pavement only about 5 miles of it is actual road sharing with cars. My routine most common ride is about 40 miles. 15 road, 20 paved MUP, and 5 gravel/dirt trail. I guess in the end, it doesn't matter what people call it or even if people try to categorize it. I know the conditions of the route and select the best bike and tire I have for it. Maybe in the end, if you are truly riding on a road and stay there, the conditions are pretty static and you know exactly what you need and other than relatively slight changes in type of pavement, one tire works for 99% of what you would come acrossg. Anything other than a traditional paved road and it widely depends.
The roads I ride in my neighborhood are paved but have gravel dumped on them regularly. I assume the gravel helps cars get traction on the often icy roads in winter. That gravel and the sand that it collects can get deep in areas. There are steep drops off the sides of these roads and lots of switchbacks and steep hills which means cars could easily slide off the road in winter months without the gravel. There are also many rock slides in MTN areas which do not help pavement....
The “gravel” forest roads and maintained gravel roads are a huge % of the roads in the area I now live in. The “paved” roads may or may not be safer or a “better” surface to ride on.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-23-18 at 03:29 AM.