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Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Two Wheelsets - Use of Each

Old 10-19-18, 01:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Chris(NJ)


oh man..I guess I’m not nearly as methodical. It takes me 10-15 minutes for a tubeless swap lol.
pop tire, dump old sealant in grass, put on new tire, pour new sealant in before seating last bit of tire on rim, hit it with compressor and give it a few whirls to get the sealant around the beads. Works every time.
Per wheel or for the set?

I'm planning/budgeting on a 2nd wheelset for the gravel rig. I'll keep one set as my usual with slick/faster tires....the other would stay stock with tubed knobbies/studs for offroad/winter/ice.
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Old 10-19-18, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti
Per wheel or for the set?

I'm planning/budgeting on a 2nd wheelset for the gravel rig. I'll keep one set as my usual with slick/faster tires....the other would stay stock with tubed knobbies/studs for offroad/winter/ice.
sorry...yea 10-15 min per wheel
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Old 10-19-18, 01:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Chris(NJ)


oh man..I guess I’m not nearly as methodical. It takes me 10-15 minutes for a tubeless swap lol.
pop tire, dump old sealant in grass, put on new tire, pour new sealant in before seating last bit of tire on rim, hit it with compressor and give it a few whirls to get the sealant around the beads. Works every time.
The other guy was talking about doing it weekly so you would be going through like $300 worth of sealant every year!
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Old 10-19-18, 01:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Elvo
The other guy was talking about doing it weekly so you would be going through like $300 worth of sealant every year!
Guess it all depends on what type of wheelset someone would be getting as a second set. A $200 wheelset would be worth it, but that sealant could also be 8 years of tire changes if you were to compare it to getting a set of solid carbon wheels as a backup
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Old 10-19-18, 03:43 PM
  #30  
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changing tires isn't riding.

btw if the effort put towards tire changing was put towards making money. A nice second set of Carbon hoops, would be as affordable as the $200 cheap wheelset.
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Old 10-20-18, 01:32 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by shoota
Exactly. If you like your road bike on the road and your gravel bike on the gravel.....then what good is an extra wheelset gonna do ya?
Some people who prefer gravel to paved roads may not have a “road” bike. Those people may benefit from two sets of tires, like DrIsotope mentions. I have neighborhood “paved” roads that gravel is dumped on regularly, to provide cars more traction during winters. I have a set of WTB NANOs 700x40C which I prefer for forest roads in GA MTNs.

I have a set of 28mm tires that I may run on the neighborhood roads. I bought the 28mm tires thinking I might do some commuting. I may swap back to a more typical Cyclocross tire 32-33mm once I wear out the 28mm tires. Trying to decide if I want to spend the money for tubless rims for the smaller tires.

I wonder if guys running two sets of tires, swap out their Cassettes and discs, or buy extra ones?

Last edited by McMitchell; 10-24-18 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 10-20-18, 06:24 AM
  #32  
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My guess would be running a full setup. A 2nd cassette and brakes. You may also want slightly harder hearing for the road setup. Or at least not as large of a low gear.
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Old 10-20-18, 07:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by McMitchell
I wonder if guys running two sets of tires, swap out their Cassettes and discs, or buy extra ones?



Second rotors and cassette. Different cassettes ranges for each for a slight benefit. One of my sets are TL so swapping tires is not as easy.
Did the same for my 26 inch flat bar years ago minus the rotors (rim brakes). 1.75 Marathons and various 2.10 MTB tires, these were both tubed so swapping tires was quick and easy and I did that but a few years ago everyone was selling off their 26 inch stuff and wheels were CHEAP so why not.
If I find a deal on decent 27.5 wheels, I'll consider on my XC too, not for the road but depending on the trail conditions.

I have no problem swapping sets for the best experience for that day.

Last edited by u235; 10-20-18 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 10-20-18, 07:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Noonievut
Anyone run two wheelsets on their gravel bike, AND have a road bike that they use for road? I don’t want to run a road wheelset on my gravel bike, I prefer my road bike to the gravel bike on the road.
Originally Posted by McMitchell


Some people who prefer gravel to paved roads may not have a “road” bike.
Did you even read the original post?
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Old 10-20-18, 09:38 PM
  #35  
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Did you Shoota?
The OP asked specifically about 2 wheelsets for a “gravel bike” in the Cyclocross and Gravelbike (Recreational) Forum.

The environment a person rides their bike in typically determines the bikes and tires they use. Some people have more bikes, some people may adapt their bikes to different conditions by swapping out tires, both methods work. I think your contextual issues are your own not mine.

Thanks to u235 and Chris(NJ) for answering my quesrion about outfitting extra tire sets. I am finding that I may not need the big ring on my lighter bike. So I may use a cassette with smaller cogs on the narrower tires.

Last edited by McMitchell; 10-20-18 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 10-20-18, 09:42 PM
  #36  
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and
still didn't read it... apparently. lol
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Old 10-21-18, 04:42 AM
  #37  
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Apparently there are those who will continue to discuss “road bikes” in the Cyclocross and Gravel Bike (Recreational) Forum. The OP specifically asked about changing wheelsets for gravel bikes vs using a road bike on the road, which opens discussion to all sorts of comparisons. I certainly was not the first poster to discuss gravel/cyclocross wheelsets in this post, which perks my curiosity as to why my post was singled out?

Modifying Cyclocross or Gravel Bikes for road use is just as valid as modifying Road Bikes for gravel or cyclocross use, especially on the Cyclocross and Gravel Biking (Recreational) Forum. Unless of course there is some other agenda.

There are a growing number of people who ride Cyclocross and Gravel bikes, specifically because they do not find riding on US public roads enjoyable or safe. The number of bikes on US roads is much smaller than in other countries. One might argue this is specifically because of the lack of bike lanes that make riding on public roads safer.

There seems to be pent up emotion towards a specific point of view on this forum. Maybe there needs to be a Forum for that discussion?

Last edited by McMitchell; 10-21-18 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 10-21-18, 10:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by McMitchell
which perks my curiosity as to why my post was singled out?


Umm because you quoted him, so he replied to that. He didn't single you out, you singled him out. ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

and then because you also failed to read the Original Post, go read it again and then read down chronologically.
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Old 10-21-18, 02:07 PM
  #39  
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Actually I did not single anyone out, I simply continued the discussion on the same track it was already on. Quoting someone does not imply anything as far as I know. It simply provides the context for discussion and gives credit where due.

On the other hand accussing someone of not reading the original post, is a blatant accusation!

IMHO ( in my humble opinion) any further discussion should be moved to the road bike or hybrid forum. On all the forums I am aware of the name of the forum is the determiner of where specific information should be posted. I am not suggesting that the OP was off topic as his post contained a comparison of wheelsets for gravel & road bikes.

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Old 10-21-18, 05:28 PM
  #40  
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OP here, thought I would get us back on track ;-)

I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
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Old 10-21-18, 05:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by McMitchell
IMHO ( in my humble opinion) any further discussion should be moved to the road bike or hybrid forum. On all the forums I am aware of the name of the forum is the determiner of where specific information should be posted. I am not suggesting that the OP was off topic as his post contained a comparison of wheelsets for gravel & road bikes.
You’re right that it could have went on another forum, but I’m talking specifically about my gravel bike, with mention of the road bike to imply that I didn’t want to run a set of road-only wheels on the gravel bike.

All good though—happy riding!

P.S. was 0 Celsius where I live this morning and I must be getting older because the same clothing I used last year down to -5C was not cutting it :-(
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Old 10-21-18, 09:41 PM
  #42  
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Right Noonievut,
There are frost warnings in the area I ride in. I am finding the same thing as I age too. Thinking about a post concerning winter clothing suggestions. I am thinking I may need some form of cover for my face to make it through the winters in GA MTNs. Getting older is tough.

It sounds from your post above that we are looking at similar tires for paved/gravel combinations. The tires that came on my Cyclocross bike are nobbies of about that same size. I would like to save my 40mm+ WTB Nano nobbies for the many forest roads that run through all the parks around me and run a more typical Cyclocross “dry” tire with grippy edges on the paved/gravel. Will be discussing this with the guys at Cartecay Bikes in the next few days. I doubt the rims that came on my bike can be made tubeless. I am sold on the convience of tubeless.




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Old 10-21-18, 10:36 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Noonievut
OP here, thought I would get us back on track ;-)

I came up with a good idea for a second wheelset, that does not overlap with the road bike though would only be applicable to some folks...a touring specific wheel. The road bike has no mounts for racks and such. The gravel bike has more than I know what to do with. So I would slap on a 700x32 and tour mainly paved, but rail trails and light gravel would also be fine. And leave the 650x48 for mostly gravel and dirt rides.
This makes perfect sense for those 100 milers that you dont feel like racing to the end but rather explore along the way.

Im looking for a second set for my gravel bike but for different reasons. My bike came with bottom of the barrel wheels. So Im looking for a good lightweight option and will use the ones that came with the bike as a trainer wheel (on the turbo) and maybe a set of slicks for the longer exploring routes in the summer.

-Sean
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Old 10-22-18, 06:10 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
If you have to ask what use a second set of wheels would be then you probably don't need a second set of wheels.



-Tim-
As others have opined, this.
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Old 10-22-18, 11:15 AM
  #45  
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For what it is worth, I can change tubeless tires a little faster than tubed tires. I use skinnystrippers (basically a latex strip that goes around the rim and ends up bonding to the tire) to - in effect - create a klind of tubular tire from my tubeless tires. I can take the tire off the wheel with the tire still holding (a little) air and pop on another tire without touching the sealant or using a tube. Its a nice unexpected side affect from these latex strips.



Originally Posted by Elvo
It would probably take 30+ minutes to drain sealant back into container with funnel, clean tire/rim of sealant residue, install other set of tires, seat bead, refill sealant, do the sealant dance, pray it seals, etc.
Originally Posted by Chris(NJ)

sorry...yea 10-15 min per wheel
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Old 10-22-18, 11:49 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Wilmingtech
This makes perfect sense for those 100 milers that you dont feel like racing to the end but rather explore along the way.

Im looking for a second set for my gravel bike but for different reasons. My bike came with bottom of the barrel wheels. So Im looking for a good lightweight option and will use the ones that came with the bike as a trainer wheel (on the turbo) and maybe a set of slicks for the longer exploring routes in the summer.

-Sean
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding. A traditional road that is paved with cars, a paved MUP, paved bicycle lane separate or integrated into a car lane, a paved trail through the woods. I do a lot of riding on pavement but most is not a road. An example is I do a century that is about 50 miles of gravel/dirt path (canal, not a gravel road) and about 50 miles of pavement, of that 50 miles of pavement only about 5 miles of it is actual road sharing with cars. My routine most common ride is about 40 miles. 15 road, 20 paved MUP, and 5 gravel/dirt trail. I guess in the end, it doesn't matter what people call it or even if people try to categorize it. I know the conditions of the route and select the best bike and tire I have for it. Maybe in the end, if you are truly riding on a road and stay there, the conditions are pretty static and you know exactly what you need and other than relatively slight changes in type of pavement, one tire works for 99% of what you would come acrossg. Anything other than a traditional paved road and it widely depends.

Last edited by u235; 10-22-18 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 10-22-18, 01:01 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by u235
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding.
Pavement.
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Old 10-22-18, 01:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by chas58
For what it is worth, I can change tubeless tires a little faster than tubed tires. I use skinnystrippers (basically a latex strip that goes around the rim and ends up bonding to the tire) to - in effect - create a klind of tubular tire from my tubeless tires. I can take the tire off the wheel with the tire still holding (a little) air and pop on another tire without touching the sealant or using a tube. Its a nice unexpected side affect from these latex strips.
I am interested in the product you mention Chase58, sounds great. I am a little hesitant to enter skinnystrippers in a search engine for fear of what might turn up. Maybe you could provide a link directly to the product? I am wondering if this product might serve as a replacement for taping wheel rims or buying expensive “tubeless rims” or not?

I am tempted to, some might say, go off topic “again”. It seems we are heading towards a discussion of wheel rims and making tires tubless. Though the OP did mention having rims built maybe I should ask the OP if this is an acceptable direction for his post. I can always start a new thread rather than move further off topic. I was just thinking this might be of interest to the OP too?







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Old 10-22-18, 01:13 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by u235
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding. A traditional road that is paved with cars, a paved MUP, paved bicycle lane separate or integrated into a car lane, a paved trail through the woods. I do a lot of riding on pavement but most is not a road. An example is I do a century that is about 50 miles of gravel/dirt path (canal, not a gravel road) and about 50 miles of pavement, of that 50 miles of pavement only about 5 miles of it is actual road sharing with cars. My routine most common ride is about 40 miles. 15 road, 20 paved MUP, and 5 gravel/dirt trail. I guess in the end, it doesn't matter what people call it or even if people try to categorize it. I know the conditions of the route and select the best bike and tire I have for it. Maybe in the end, if you are truly riding on a road and stay there, the conditions are pretty static and you know exactly what you need and other than relatively slight changes in type of pavement, one tire works for 99% of what you would come across. Anything other than a traditional paved road and it widely depends.
I think the answer to this will be as different as the number of people who answer the question. I've lived in quite a few places from New England to Florida and now out in the Pacific Northwest and in every place a "Road" was vastly different. From the very narrow 2 lane unmarked potholed 100 year old roads through the rolling hills of New England to the hot pavement surburbian roads with a sidewalk to every corner in Metro-Orlando to the subdivisions only connected by a highway in North Carolina to places where the only way in or out of a town was a long dusty dirt road and now where I currently live that has a good collection of main highways, country roads and old dirt logging roads and hills, lots of hills.
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Old 10-22-18, 01:43 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by u235
Getting off topic here but.. what do most people consider "road" riding. A traditional road that is paved with cars, a paved MUP, paved bicycle lane separate or integrated into a car lane, a paved trail through the woods. I do a lot of riding on pavement but most is not a road. An example is I do a century that is about 50 miles of gravel/dirt path (canal, not a gravel road) and about 50 miles of pavement, of that 50 miles of pavement only about 5 miles of it is actual road sharing with cars. My routine most common ride is about 40 miles. 15 road, 20 paved MUP, and 5 gravel/dirt trail. I guess in the end, it doesn't matter what people call it or even if people try to categorize it. I know the conditions of the route and select the best bike and tire I have for it. Maybe in the end, if you are truly riding on a road and stay there, the conditions are pretty static and you know exactly what you need and other than relatively slight changes in type of pavement, one tire works for 99% of what you would come acrossg. Anything other than a traditional paved road and it widely depends.
At the risk of disagreeing with Shoota again, I think your question gets at the underlying issue. What “road” means to different people may vary. I believe someone in this thread indicated that his “gravel” roads were often better than his “paved” roads. Having built and maintianed a 1/2 mile driveway I can attest to the fact that “pavement” may or may not be a more solid surface to ride on than gravel. There are quite a few “paved” roads in: NC, SC & GA that are not nearly as good as maintained bike trails, walking trails, running trails...

The roads I ride in my neighborhood are paved but have gravel dumped on them regularly. I assume the gravel helps cars get traction on the often icy roads in winter. That gravel and the sand that it collects can get deep in areas. There are steep drops off the sides of these roads and lots of switchbacks and steep hills which means cars could easily slide off the road in winter months without the gravel. There are also many rock slides in MTN areas which do not help pavement....

The “gravel” forest roads and maintained gravel roads are a huge % of the roads in the area I now live in. The “paved” roads may or may not be safer or a “better” surface to ride on.

Last edited by McMitchell; 10-23-18 at 03:29 AM.
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