mkeller234

Recently I picked up a local ebay purchase. After chatting for a couple hours he very generously gave me a french thread crank remover. It was made by Park and has two different sides with different thread sizes. I only have the threaded portion and not the arm that screws into the base. I tried to see if my standard park wrench would fit but it does not. Does anyone know what might work? I was hoping I could find a large bolt at the hardware store and use that but I am skeptical.

I hope that makes sense. I would like to plug the ebay seller too, Tom Hayes (ebay seller name Purplehayesbikes). He was not only generous but very interesting and friendly. He had the coolest collection I have seen in person.

Bam42685

I think pictures might help. I know I'm a little confused, but that might just because my crank puller is old and not Park.

mkeller234

Here is a photo of what I have. The blue handle part is a newer park CCP-2 crank remover. The other piece is the french threaded part that was given to me. The CCP-2 handle does not thread into the french threaded base and I am hoping to find something that does.

norskagent

just use a crescent or open end wrench on the flats in the middle of it - don't worry about finding the correct threaded handle.

cudak888 

What are the thread types on the "French" remover tool? If it's 23 on one side and 23.35 on the other, it's for TA/Stronglight (respectively), and I'd be a bit curious as to whether it is a Park tool. Far as I know, they only made a CCP-1 with 22 and 23mm capabilities.

-Kurt

norskagent

my bad - you need the tool to "push".
I have a park ccp-1 - both threads are unmarked.

nlerner

To my eye, that looks much more like a VAR tool than a Park. Perhaps your LBS has some VAR crank remover tools you might try to see if you can find the right insert.

Neal

mkeller234

Right, but that does not remove the crank, the threaded object on the handle is what does all of the work.

Kurt, to be honest I don't really know. One of the sides works on my Stonglight 93 crank and I just assumed the other side probably worked with TA cranks. The only reason I say it's a Park branded tool is because that is what the guy told me. He had an older white Park handle and I think he said that is what works.

mkeller234

Good idea Neal, I have a lbs that can probably help me out with that.

High Fist Shin

I wonder if a thread gauge would help?



Then at least you would have an idea of the size thread and bolt you'd need to "do the pulling." Other than that, I got nothing.

Grand Bois

Those threads look pretty rough. Are you sure you want to risk damaging the threads in your crank arms?

mkeller234

Looking closely at the tool, the threads seem pretty crisp. There is a good amount of old grease and gunk clogging up some areas. It may not be useable anyway, but I am not complaining considering it was free. Worst case scenario I will continue to troll ebay or cough up 50 dollars to velo-orange.

cudak888 

That adds up. As Neal says, it's probably a VAR tool, not a Park.

-Kurt

Chombi

As some had recently noted in this forum, the Park Tools CCP-1 Stronglight/TA crank puller had bee discontinued by park years ago and is not available new anymore. Stronglight and TA made their own pullers that come at at Ebay regularly for sometime reasonable enough prices. If you still want to used the partial Park puller you have obtained (Which looks very much like the one on my CCP-1 puller.), you might be able to locate a big/long enough hex head bolt that might fit through it and still use it....that is unless the threads and bolt diameter that Park used on the tool is totally prorietary....Idunnodat. I think it would be worth a trip to the hardware store to see if you can find one that fits/works.
Good luck!

Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
85(?) Vitus Carbone Plus 7

miamijim

Thats what I'd do. Go to the hradware store and find a long grade 5 bolt, maybe grade 8. Round off the end off the bolt so it doesnt dig up your spindle.

norskagent

Just tried my "cyclepro" crank puller/handle with the park outer section - not even close. Threads didn't even touch. So I guess you need to figure out what kind yours is, to match it. Or hope to get lucky at the hardware store.

Bam42685

If the hardware store doesn't work, a machine shop should be able to measure the inside diameter, thread pitch, and make something up for you pretty quickly on a lathe. If I didn't move away to school from my job at the shop I'd offer to do it. The good news (for you, not the economy as a whole) is that the guys at most shops are probably standing around doing nothing right now anyway.

mpfgc

If you have a claw-type gear puller, use that with this piece - screw this into your crank, and leave enough space between the nut portion to engage your puller claws. If the puller screw is too large a diameter, drop in a small socket or something similar to drive off of.

elcraft

My understanding of this Park tool was that the French threaded side was only compatible with TA/Nervar cranks. The Stronglight pitch was slightly narrower/finer. This tool was standard threading (Shimano/ Campy) on one side and then 23 tpi threading for TA or Nervar cranks ONLY. Stronglight required the 23.35 (in that vintage). If you use yours successfully with 93 cranks, I am surprised!

cudak888 

That is correct - the CCP-1 was typical 22mm on one side with 23mm for TA on the other, and it doesn't look similar to the OP's part. Photos in 5.

-Kurt

elcraft

Yeah, I must be inhaling something.... I mean that the tool's DIAMETERS are 22 mm for Campy/Standard and 23 mm for TA/Nervar and 23.35 mm for Stronglight! I have the old Park tool with the 23 mm French threading, but I have been reluctant to try it on my Stronglight 93 crankset- I am afraid that the tool will be seated too shallowly in the threading and I will destroy the extractor threads......

I am thinking about acquiring a Stein crank puller. it is the only currently made extractor for old
Stronglight.

cudak888 

Photo of the CCP variants, as promised. CCP-1 at left with 22mm/23mm head, CCP-2 with 22mm head, and CCP-4 with 22mm for ISIS:



The CCP-1's 22mm section is deeper then either of the ends on the OP's new tool. Not that this proves anything - short of the tool being something other then part of a Park CCP-1.

EDIT: The CCP-1 and CCP-2's heads are interchangeable. Identical threading on both tools, old and new.

-Kurt

Homebrew01

Park CCP-1 dimensions:

Actual measurements, not nominal:

Thread diameter of Threaded rod attached to handle .558" Appears to be 18 tpi

Inner diameter of threaded hole through the tool: .515 "

Thread diameter of tool end #1: .860"
Thread diameter of tool end #2: .902"

Maybe someone can convert those to more useful numbers.

Are you looking for a tool for a one-off removal because you're getting rid of the crank, or looking to buy a tool ?

helicomatic

Make sure you measure the outside diameter of the threads before you actually remove a Stronglight crank with it, otherwise...

That could happen. A 23mm threaded crank puller for TA/Nervar cranks will thread into a Stronglight crank just fine, and might feel just a tiny bit loose, but you might not notice if the thread is a little dirty. If you try to use it to actually pull the crank it'll rip the threads right out. Stronglight cranks use 23.35mm threads, and the puller should measure accordingly.

If either of you need to borrow a Stein puller to get your cranks off send me a PM.

mkeller234

Wow, thank you for the helpful answers. I don't need the tool right this minute, just eventually since I am keeping the crank. I just happened on this half of the tool and thought I may be able to make it work.

Thanks everyone, I will check in when I get an answer.
Matt