fietsbob

Need a big heavy battery, 12v , to have enough power for a car headlight..

But unlike a car you won't have a motor powered generator to keep up, so, it's all draining the battery ..

and without a charging generator you will soon have no light at all ..


this switches between a bright high load HID, and a battery life conserving LED.



at a cost of about $500

carlos danger

i get 1h 45min on 3200lm

31h on 225lm

carlos danger

how did i hijack this? he wanted a carpower light right. I'm running that.
no one else seems to run this

fietsbob

Personally I get infinite run time with a Hub dynamo and wired LED setup, ,
but I don't feel a need for being lit up like a rally car racing at night
like the OP seems to think they need..

Oso Polar

+1
Many of these cheap lights just produce a focused bright beam that is blinding other people and at the same time not wide enough to properly light up the road. They give a kind of tunnel vision at night as center is much, much brighter, so eyes adapt to this brightness and don't see anything outside of this very narrow field - just complete darkness. Dangerous for rider, even more dangerous for everyone in front of him. Gives me desire to get a baseball bat and bit a **** out of these lights, bikes with these lights and their riders.

100% agree but... but these German lights are pathetically under powered. I have Busch & Muller IXON IQ Premium light, supposedly one of the brightest. It has perfect light distribution: beam is wide, it has a vertical cut off and it lights up road far away with the same intensity as in front of the bike, all light field is pretty much of equal brightness, like car lights. Except it is very dim. I'd say I'd want at the very least twice more light, preferably triple more light to ride comfortably at night. As it is, it is good to get you back home slowly. Or to return using well known roads. Batteries last forever though and they are usual replaceable & rechargeable AA batteries. I'm thinking on buying one more and using two together as I'm just not aware of any good alternatives.

Bull****! They may be as bright as car in one small spot, which is useless and dangerous, otherwise they just suck and can't compare to car lights. Unless you are comparing to Ford Model T or something else from that era or some rare and extremely expensive lights.

This is more like it. Now just wait a bit until 6400 lumen lights become regular modern lights...

fietsbob

Mount the light closer to the ground and point it downward and it will seem brighter..

Example , headlight at Brompton fork crown , lower than a light at a 29er's fork crown.. ..

Oso Polar

Ixon IQ is 40 lux, Ixon IQ Premium (the one I have) - 80 lux, Schmidt Edelux II (is this the light you refer to?) - 90 lux, so it is expected to be slightly brighter.

This new Ixon Space is 150 lux - but these 150 lux are for just 2 hours, battery is built-in and it costs 199 euro (in the only place that seem to have it in stock). Two Ixon IQ Premium lights (together with chargers and batteries) will be just 100 euro and produce 80 + 80 = 160 lux for 5 hours with replaceable standard AA batteries. One Ixon Space will be obviously more compact and lighter than two Ixon IQ Premiums but IMHO it should go much lower in price to become a viable alternative. And even when, just 2 hours of lighting without ability to swap batteries and prolong usage...

01 CAt Man Do

Since I drive at night a lot let me give you some perspective; We could sit here all day talking about bike lights...size, beam patterns, run time...etc, etc. Anyone I see riding a bike at night that has a light I see. The difference is in, "How well I see them, how soon I see them and how long it takes me to recognize that the light I'm seeing is coming from a bike. Many times I see a light on the side of the road ahead of me. If it's far away it may even seem to not be moving. That being the case I may not even know it's a cyclist. Sometimes I don't know until they actually enter the range of my head lights.

To remedy this situation when I ride at night I use a small LED flasher down low on my front fork. Preferably one that has a low flicker mode ( about 50 lumen ). I then angle it upward so it doesn't reflect off the road and pose a distraction to myself. Then I use a very nice bike light on the bars designed to give me a normal road / cut-off type beam pattern. The point I'm making is that the main lamp lets me see and the flicker/flasher telegraphs to any vehicles on approach that they have something other than a car or motorcycle on the side of the road. FWIW, I didn't come up with the idea myself, I saw someone else doing it and I was so impressed I knew I needed to do the same thing. A flashing/flickering light either front or rear just screams "Bike". For the front though don't use too bright of a flasher or it will be too distracting ( either by reflecting off the road too much or reflecting off of reflective signs ). My little Performance mini flasher has a flicker mode that is just perfect. The smaller the better.

there

I'm looking to be seen, during the day and during the night. In terms of myself being able to see the road at night, I'm thinking of a simple light (inexpensive but highly reviewed).

I have a lot more experience from the standpoint of being a long-time car driver. If it's at all cloudy, I'll turn on the headlights. Cloudy or sunny, I like the idea of daytime running lights just because you are seen better by other drivers.

I do not plan to do a lot of night riding. But for sure during the winter months the darkness is there more often.

Recently I was driving at night and a biker came down the road with a light on. I could see it from quite a ways off, but the light was low and small.

In my Utopian dream (the dystopian one where cars and bikes still share space), I can see a bike and clothing lit up like a carnival at night, Ferris wheel and all. I'd also love a wheel noise-maker or wheel-driven noise maker or even an always present softly playing A-tone recording to alert drivers as they blindly swing their car doors open across unnoticed bike lanes. Actually, tbh, just a bright red glow from the rear, maybe emanating from a 6"x6" square panel is about my Utopian vision - and in the front a diffracted 6"x6" white or yellowish light pointing down but clearly visible from 50-100 yards. I'm of the opinion (I think, being new it's hard to say) that a car coming up on anything, whether they think it's another car or something else -- that they're going to use the same amount of caution whether

Great conversation - Thanks!

Any thoughts on 1) LiPo batteries and 2) Regenerative batteries via either braking or a "B-Mode" (a mode which has a constant slight pull on the bike which you overcome to generate charging power)?

fietsbob

Regenerative braking,, with the multi million dollar budget, spent on a Formula E race car has been done.

But they go fast and are heavy...

there

noglider 

I'm sure you mean dynamo-powered, not IGH-powered, right?

noglider 

No, light beams don't interfere with each other. If they're aimed the same, you'll have one beam with twice the light power.

I'd love to see pictures of your bike. Do you have any?

01 CAt Man Do

Personally I think running lights in full daylight is a waste of time but in certain situations it can make some sense. For daytime riding if you want a bit more conspicuousness you might run a white flasher on the bars. In this case not the mini flasher as I spoke of before but one in the 100-200 lumen range. Just make sure you don't use it on a MUP and make sure it is a simple flash and not a strobe. I've seen many people using white flashers in the day and it does wonders for getting seen.

Could also go with a flashing rear red light in the back but for day use it has to be quite bright to make a whole lot of difference. There are many good self-contained red lamps being sold that generally will include a very bright pulse mode that can be very useful for daytime use. My Cygolite Hotshot 150 will do it but there are others that will work just as well or better. For daytime use the brighter/ sharper the output pulse the better. At night time though you don't need quite as much output from a single lamp. BTW, "I am that carnival going down the road at night". Three rear red lights, two front lamps ( one on stand-by for high beam use ) and flasher on front fork, helmet lamp on stand-by and wheel lights. Not to mention all the reflective stuff both on my bike and my clothing. I just love me's some late night nighttime bike riding.

noglider 

Maybe running lights in the day is a waste, but wearing a helmet is also a waste, whenever I don't fall on it. I'm willing to pay the extra cost, as it seems pretty low to me, for both the lights and the helmet.

angerdan

THE most advanced bicycle headlight at this time is the Supernova M99 Pro. Delivers 1600 lumens, so the same amount like an car headlight.
And its reflector design uses many small mirrors to shape the beam and creta an sharp cut-off beam.
supernova-lights.com/en/products/e-bike-lights-45-kmh/m99-pro/

there

TimothyH

This is for e-bikes.

Are we talking about e-bike lights or battery operated lights?


-Tim-

Skipjacks

You are describing a GREAT daylight 'be seen' light. The focused beam means they are noticed from up to a mile away (without blinding anyone) in broad daylight.

But at night....yeah....the focused light is blinding if you're looking right at it and kinda useless if you're trying to light the path in front of you

there

I would love to have one of these UPS rounded headlights. Mounted on a bike, I imagine this would be very visible.



UPS rounded headlights

angerdan

Doesn't matter, ebike mounted lights are also just battery powered. Booth use DC and booth have around 6-12V voltage.
So only the voltage matters. Some light offer even 5-24V input voltage, especially from Supernova.

washed up

I use an E-LUME 1500 and run it on the lowest setting to extend battery life. I have had cars flash headlights at me while running on the highest setting. Lowest setting at 400 lumens will fun about 6 hours.

TimothyH

So for this particular light, how is it powered and mounted on something other than an e-bike?

I'm sincerely asking out of ignorance. Not trying to challenge and I have not looked at the manufacturer's website in depth yet. If the answer is in the manufacturer's documentation then so be it.

I am interested in this product.

there

I'd like to run a light off of a lipo battery, and regenerate energy for the lipo battery from braking and riding in "regen" mode (a mode where there is a slight constant friction applied to the bike to regenerate the battery). I understand that regenerating drive power is typically very low -- online I've seen 5-10% capable recoup numbers for drive power, although this 2013 EPA / UMich study points to 70% possible (https://archive.epa.gov/otaq/technology/web/html/research-hhb.html) -- but in terms of powering a light, that ought to be quite a bit less than what's required for drive power. (By drive power I'm referring to the power needed to actually move the bicycle forward. This is in contrast to the power needed to run a 10-30 watt light.)

angerdan

Mounting is possible with the Trelock mount (ZL HB 100), B&M mount (B&M 470LH) or several Supernova bicycle mounts.

It can be powered by 7S battery packs or 24V powerbanks.
https://enerprof.de/shop/batteries/p...harger-5v-24v/
https://enerprof.de/shop/batteries/e...tery-10x3-diy/
https://www.xtpower.de/XT-16000QC2-P...0mAh-up-to-24V
https://www.xtpower.de/XT-20000QC2-P...-5V-12V-to-24V