Two Wheelsets - Use of Each
#52
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#53
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I think I found a link to the product chas58 mentions above, in case others are interested:
FattyStripper Tubeless Fat Bike Solution and SkinnyStripper Tubeless CX & DH Solution <link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_Logo_320.jpg" / ><link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_L
FattyStripper Tubeless Fat Bike Solution and SkinnyStripper Tubeless CX & DH Solution <link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_Logo_320.jpg" / ><link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_L
#54
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I have a steel gravel bike with two wheelsets. I use it for gravel/road touring in the warmer months and as a road bike in the colder/wetter months. One pair of wheels has 700c HED Belgium+ rims, 28x Sapim Lasers front and rear laced to WI CLD hubs. Tires are Schwalbe G One Microskin 35mm. The second wheelset are Velocity Aileron 650b, 32x Sapim Race spokes laced to WI CLD hubs. Tires are Schwalbe G One Microskin 38mm. Both are set up tubeless. I had the HED wheels first, however they weren't great for when I went touring. They would make noises like a broken spoke, even though the spokes seemed fine. Made me nervous with the heavy load, heavy braking and rough gravel roads on 28 aggressively butted spokes. (Sapim does not recommend Lasers for disc brakes, however I have zero issues when not loaded down) I now use this wheelset for everything other than loaded touring. The 650b wheels are used for touring and the ride is much stiffer. With 36 thick and short(that's what she said) spokes, there are no more disconcerting noises when heavily loaded. These wheels with the 38mm tires definitely feel slower though.
I also have a road bike with Zipp 404 FC. These are rim brake, so when the weather gets nasty or there is salt all over the roads, I use the gravel bike for road rides with the 700c wheels for the disc brakes and wider, tubeless tires. Getting back on the road bike always makes me feel like I'm flying.
I like having a road bike and gravel bike and 2 sets of wheels on the gravel bike. Yeah, it is more money but it's a one time expense... at least until the itch hits.
If you dont tour, I don't see a point in having 2 wheelsets for the gravel bike.
I also have a road bike with Zipp 404 FC. These are rim brake, so when the weather gets nasty or there is salt all over the roads, I use the gravel bike for road rides with the 700c wheels for the disc brakes and wider, tubeless tires. Getting back on the road bike always makes me feel like I'm flying.
I like having a road bike and gravel bike and 2 sets of wheels on the gravel bike. Yeah, it is more money but it's a one time expense... at least until the itch hits.
If you dont tour, I don't see a point in having 2 wheelsets for the gravel bike.
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Right Noonievut,
There are frost warnings in the area I ride in. I am finding the same thing as I age too. Thinking about a post concerning winter clothing suggestions. I am thinking I may need some form of cover for my face to make it through the winters in GA MTNs. Getting older is tough.
It sounds from your post above that we are looking at similar tires for paved/gravel combinations. The tires that came on my Cyclocross bike are nobbies of about that same size. I would like to save my 40mm+ WTB Nano nobbies for the many forest roads that run through all the parks around me and run a more typical Cyclocross “dry” tire with grippy edges on the paved/gravel. Will be discussing this with the guys at Cartecay Bikes in the next few days. I doubt the rims that came on my bike can be made tubeless. I am sold on the convience of tubeless.
There are frost warnings in the area I ride in. I am finding the same thing as I age too. Thinking about a post concerning winter clothing suggestions. I am thinking I may need some form of cover for my face to make it through the winters in GA MTNs. Getting older is tough.
It sounds from your post above that we are looking at similar tires for paved/gravel combinations. The tires that came on my Cyclocross bike are nobbies of about that same size. I would like to save my 40mm+ WTB Nano nobbies for the many forest roads that run through all the parks around me and run a more typical Cyclocross “dry” tire with grippy edges on the paved/gravel. Will be discussing this with the guys at Cartecay Bikes in the next few days. I doubt the rims that came on my bike can be made tubeless. I am sold on the convience of tubeless.
I've made non tubeless tires and wheels tubeless, using skinny strippers to ensure it doesn't have a catastrophic burp. I like G-Ones in the winter. Seems to me that tires with side knobs give me the biggest benefit when I'm trying to steer out of a rut.
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I think I found a link to the product chas58 mentions above, in case others are interested:
FattyStripper Tubeless Fat Bike Solution and SkinnyStripper Tubeless CX & DH Solution <link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_Logo_320.jpg" / ><link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_L
FattyStripper Tubeless Fat Bike Solution and SkinnyStripper Tubeless CX & DH Solution <link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_Logo_320.jpg" / ><link rel="image_src" href="https://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_L
I originally used these to go getto tubless (before I was sold on tubless). But even for a good tubless set up, the elimitate most all of the problems I hear people complaining about - making removal, tire swapping easier, eliminating burping and any mess. Super cheap insurance.
@Noonievut (OP) Keep in mind if you have 2+ tubless wheelsets - you need to keep all wheels regularly rotated or your sealant will pool and dry at the bottom of the unused tire.
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Quick question to all you 650b users: Once you go 650b for off road riding/all road riding, is there ever any going back to 700c?
#59
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Yes, when you find out you need more B.B. clearance
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One would think the purpose of going 650b is to run bigger tires (unless you are physically too small for 700c) so the BB should be roughly the same height if you do that. There's a chart somewhere on the net that shows what 650b tire size equals various 700c sizes. Basically, a 650b with a 44mm tire is equal to a 700c with a 25mm tire.
Here it is: BikeCalc.com - How to calculate Bicycle Wheel Size
The bigger issue is brake reach from 700c to 650b. If you are running disc no problem but you may need a different caliper if the reach isn't long enough on a road bike. Once you have gone to that trouble you may not wish to revert back to 700c if you tossed or sold the originals.
Here it is: BikeCalc.com - How to calculate Bicycle Wheel Size
The bigger issue is brake reach from 700c to 650b. If you are running disc no problem but you may need a different caliper if the reach isn't long enough on a road bike. Once you have gone to that trouble you may not wish to revert back to 700c if you tossed or sold the originals.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 10-23-18 at 06:40 PM.
#61
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Chas58,
Thanks for the info on the items you use in winter. Cold toes/feet can be a serious issue! I did find a thread about winter biking clothing on these forums that also has many good suggestions. I choose not to risk getting blasted for pursuing an “off topic” subject, even if the OP brought it up :-)
It sounds like you use the “skinnystrippers/fattystrippers” on rims designed to be tubeless as well as ones not designed to be used tubless?
Happy Feet,
Thanks for the link to the chart calculating tire sizes, good to know!
Thanks for the info on the items you use in winter. Cold toes/feet can be a serious issue! I did find a thread about winter biking clothing on these forums that also has many good suggestions. I choose not to risk getting blasted for pursuing an “off topic” subject, even if the OP brought it up :-)
It sounds like you use the “skinnystrippers/fattystrippers” on rims designed to be tubeless as well as ones not designed to be used tubless?
Happy Feet,
Thanks for the link to the chart calculating tire sizes, good to know!
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-23-18 at 10:27 PM.
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Chas58,
Thanks for the info on the items you use in winter. Cold toes/feet can be a serious issue! I did find a thread about winter biking clothing on these forums that also has many good suggestions. I choose not to risk getting blasted for pursuing an “off topic” subject, even if the OP brought it up :-)
Thanks for the info on the items you use in winter. Cold toes/feet can be a serious issue! I did find a thread about winter biking clothing on these forums that also has many good suggestions. I choose not to risk getting blasted for pursuing an “off topic” subject, even if the OP brought it up :-)
I used P.S. and it was on my mind as I was still freezing at that moment! I feared their rath as well
#65
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Question regarding 650B, since this now seems to be an “official” topic on this thread.
I have 700C 40mm WTB Nanos on Stan’s Grail tubeless rims, which I plan to use on forest roads, trails, rougher travel. I am looking for a set of wheels to use on the paved/ gravel roads I ride more regularly. As I understand the idea behind 650B, one uses a smaller rim to achieve a taller tire that can be run at lower pressures and absorb more shock. Which makes me think they may work for my conditions? I believe these tires typically wind up narrower too, although I understand that depends on the tire. I ask because it seems more people use them for rougher conditions.
As I previously mentioned, to much fan fare, I do not have a “road” bike. My Focus Cyclocross bike is close enough to a road bike for me. I like riding the Focus bike on the “paved” roads I ride regularly for many of the same reasons mentioned for people riding “road” bikes. I feel like I am flying compared to my MTN bike. It is easier to get up hills.....I stay in middle gears more of the time.....I like my bike for my conditions too, always looking for ways to make the ride more enjoyable though.
I have 700C 40mm WTB Nanos on Stan’s Grail tubeless rims, which I plan to use on forest roads, trails, rougher travel. I am looking for a set of wheels to use on the paved/ gravel roads I ride more regularly. As I understand the idea behind 650B, one uses a smaller rim to achieve a taller tire that can be run at lower pressures and absorb more shock. Which makes me think they may work for my conditions? I believe these tires typically wind up narrower too, although I understand that depends on the tire. I ask because it seems more people use them for rougher conditions.
As I previously mentioned, to much fan fare, I do not have a “road” bike. My Focus Cyclocross bike is close enough to a road bike for me. I like riding the Focus bike on the “paved” roads I ride regularly for many of the same reasons mentioned for people riding “road” bikes. I feel like I am flying compared to my MTN bike. It is easier to get up hills.....I stay in middle gears more of the time.....I like my bike for my conditions too, always looking for ways to make the ride more enjoyable though.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-24-18 at 08:43 AM.
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Question regarding 650B, since this now seems to be an “official” topic on this thread.
I have 700C 40mm WTB Nanos on Stan’s Grail tubeless rims, which I plan to use on forest roads, trails, rougher travel. I am looking for a set of wheels to use on the paved/ gravel roads I ride more regularly. As I understand the idea behind 650B, one uses a smaller rim to achieve a taller tire that can be run at lower pressures and absorb more shock. Which makes me think they may work for my conditions? I believe these tires typically wind up narrower too, although I understand that depends on the tire. I ask because it seems more people use them for rougher conditions.
As I previously mentioned, to much fan fare, I do not have a “road” bike. My Focus Cyclocross bike is close enough to a road bike for me. I like riding the Focus bike on the “paved” roads I ride regularly for many of the same reasons mentioned for people riding “road” bikes. I feel like I am flying compared to my MTN bike. It is easier to get up hills.....I stay in middle gears more of the time.....I like my bike for my conditions too, always looking for ways to make the ride more enjoyable though.
I have 700C 40mm WTB Nanos on Stan’s Grail tubeless rims, which I plan to use on forest roads, trails, rougher travel. I am looking for a set of wheels to use on the paved/ gravel roads I ride more regularly. As I understand the idea behind 650B, one uses a smaller rim to achieve a taller tire that can be run at lower pressures and absorb more shock. Which makes me think they may work for my conditions? I believe these tires typically wind up narrower too, although I understand that depends on the tire. I ask because it seems more people use them for rougher conditions.
As I previously mentioned, to much fan fare, I do not have a “road” bike. My Focus Cyclocross bike is close enough to a road bike for me. I like riding the Focus bike on the “paved” roads I ride regularly for many of the same reasons mentioned for people riding “road” bikes. I feel like I am flying compared to my MTN bike. It is easier to get up hills.....I stay in middle gears more of the time.....I like my bike for my conditions too, always looking for ways to make the ride more enjoyable though.
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I'm not too keen on droping my BB height, as i tend to smack my pedals. But a 54mm 650b has roughly the same diameter as your 40mm nanos. Thunder Burt looks to be a good choice for me. I found some 700c TBs on sale, and put them on my bike - because hey - our forks have a lot of clearance these days. It made the bike ride too much like a mountain bike for my tastes - although it is super fun on single track and rough/soft conditions. It tended to slow the bike's responses down (more trail?) which is good. I then tried a 2.0" Furious Fred - and that gave me everything. Super fast and responsive, lots of cush (I need about 27psi in it to get the same width contact patch as in my 40mm @ ~40psi). No BB height problems. I think 650b is good if you must really go wide and don't care about weight/acceleration/climibing. But most people will get what they want just putting a fatter front tire on their bike.
#69
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I did just change from a 172.5mm crank to 170mm. My bike came with 33mm Rocket Ron tires. I switched to the 40mm tires on the Stan’s Grail rims, which seem to fit with extra space.
#70
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My suggestion is if you do not have a positive contribution to make on a specific topic it might be better to stiffle the urge to make a “negative” responce.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-25-18 at 07:00 AM.
#71
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I heard you chas58. Good to know. Wise council now that I have a little history.
After conferring with my bike shop and doing a quick cost analysis I am planing to run the WTB Nanos on both surfaces for now. I have the 28mm tires on the original rims that came with the bike. Although I do not think I can make them tubless, tubes may not be an issue on “paved” roads. Once I figure out why one tubed tire continues to leak air...
Turns out one of the bike mechanics rides the same tire I do, 40mm WTB Nano. Like me, he only rides on “pavement” to get to gravel/dirt.
After conferring with my bike shop and doing a quick cost analysis I am planing to run the WTB Nanos on both surfaces for now. I have the 28mm tires on the original rims that came with the bike. Although I do not think I can make them tubless, tubes may not be an issue on “paved” roads. Once I figure out why one tubed tire continues to leak air...
Turns out one of the bike mechanics rides the same tire I do, 40mm WTB Nano. Like me, he only rides on “pavement” to get to gravel/dirt.
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For what it is worth, companies like Continental don't think tubeless is worth it below ~30mm. They don't make tubless in those sizes. There is a good argument to make that there is no benefit in weight, or rolling resistance in those sizes, and certainly it is super easy to change a tube in a traditional tire rather than the stiff and super tight beads tubeless tires have (and the semi-annual maintenance). I do get occasional pinch flats if I take a tire that small off road (or sometimes just with the potholes around here on the roads).
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They put some kind of nasty oil mixture down around here (to keep the dust down), but it makes for a pretty smooth ride in the right conditions (summer/fall).
#74
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...As I understand the idea behind 650B, one uses a smaller rim to achieve a taller tire that can be run at lower pressures and absorb more shock. Which makes me think they may work for my conditions? I believe these tires typically wind up narrower too, although I understand that depends on the tire. I ask because it seems more people use them for rougher conditions.
To clarify, most of the time 650b will be fatter and taller than a traditional 700c tire. It basically has more volume. The usual issue is that road bikes are limited by the height of the tire, especially if trying to also fit a fender so the smaller rim allows a taller tire. But, when thinking about a conversion you have to consider the ultimate width as well if you have a narrower fork.
#75
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I had mentioned one idea for a second wheelset for the gravel bike being for touring (which I do a few times a year, mind you they’re only sub-5 day tours), and I would use 32mm tires on 700c rims...I think it’s more practical to just use the same 650b wheels and swap for a smooth tread, high volume tire like the WTB horizon. While it might be overkill for primarily paved riding, I wouldn’t hesitate to ride rail rail trails and easy gravel roads, and it would be a faster tire than the GKSK (and better on wet pavement I presume).