GodinSession

Hello, I have a Giant Anyroad. It has regular road drop bars with 105 11 speed components along with mechanical disc brakes. It also has cheater brakes on the flat section of the bars.
I am considering converting it to use a Jones H-Bar. If you are not familiar with them they look like this.
H-BarŪ Jones Loop Aluminium 710 - Jones Bikes

What do a need as far as shifting and brakes go? Also will I need new derauilleurs?
Am I better off selling the anyroad and getting something like a giant toughroad and just buying the h-bar as it already has the mountain bike componentry.

Thanks for any help...

dabac

What you're asking about is a "drop to flat bar" conversion. Do a search for that and get yourself educated.

SkyDog75

Along with the handlebar, and probably a stem to get it positioned properly, you'll need new brake levers and new shifters. Shimano's SL-RS700 shifters should be compatible with your existing derailleurs.

Between the handlebar, shifters, brake levers, and stem, you're probably looking at around $300 in parts. The handlebar and shifters are the bulk of that, each being over $100.

Kopsis

Probably. Drop to Flat and Flat to Drop conversions are usually not cost effective unless you have a well-stocked parts bin, or you want to put a significant amount of effort into securing good deals on closeout or slightly used parts.

The other thing to consider is that the change will significantly affect the fit. If the bike fits now with drops, the reach will likely be too short with flat (or Jones) bars. Not insurmountable, but the result is always going to be a bit of a kludge. It's one thing to kludge up an old frame with little intrinsic value, but it makes a lot less sense to do it on a perfectly good new(ish) bike.

Retro Grouch 

Oh oh! You've started thinking about it. You've got the disease now. BED - Bicycle Experimenters Disease.

Kopsis is right, but you don't want to hear about cost effective or kludge results. It's about screwing with your bike and seeing what happens. Don't ask me how I know.

HillRider

The economics of this kind of conversion rarely make sense unless, as Kopis noted, you have a lot of the needed parts already in your parts bins and/or can find some real bargains and, most importantly, can do all the conversion work yourself.

Years ago I did the opposite, converted an old hardtail MTB to dropbars. However, I had the needed brifters, bars and stem already in my stash from previous upgrades on other bikes and did the installation myself so the cost was nearly nothing.

All of that being said, if you want to do this for the experience and the cost isn't a big factor, go to it and have fun.

ColonelSanders

To ask a silly question, couldn't one transfer the current brake levers and gear shifters on the AnyRoad, to the Jones Bar?

Would operating them be unworkable?

I would imagine braking would be fine, not sure about the gear shifting?

Kopsis

The clamp diameter is wrong ... though in the case of drop-to-flat the bar is smaller so you could, in theory, shim things up to make them fit (flat-to-drop conversions don't have that option). Brakes could work (cable routing would be ugly), but shifting with 105 brifters on a flat bar seems like it would be awkward enough to make the whole experience pretty unpleasant (but I can't say I've ever tried it).

gsa103

Look into Salsa Woodchipper or other "dirt drop" bars. They may give you a similar position and are designed for road shifters.

GodinSession

Thanks for all the responses. I think it's probably best that I sell the Anyroad and get a Toughroad if I decide to go this route.
I was using my anyroad as my road bike, but I recently got a Giant Contend that I LOVE! So now the Anyroad is really just a rail to trails bike. In addition, my Anyroad is a bit to big for me. I should have gotten a smaller frame, so in the end selling it and getting a toughroad that fits is probably my best bet.

blakcloud

I am not convinced that selling is the best way to go but of course that is going to be your decision. The conversion is about $300 as some else suggested. If you sell your current bike, you are going to be out more than $300. Resale value on bikes is ridiculously low. Cost effective is to keep your bike and pay for the upgrade and you can sell off the parts you took off.

Second the bigger bike can work to your advantage. As someone else mentioned the bike may not fit anymore. Many bikes with flat bars or upright bars need a longer top tube for a more comfortable fit. Look at mountain bike top tubes, super long for the fit. You already have a bike with a longer top tube and with the conversion it will as close to perfect as you can get. You already have the stand over height so to me it is a win win situation.

If money isn't a concern, and you really want the Toughroad, then my advice/opinion is moot.

GodinSession

So I just got back from my LBS. Took a short spin on the toughroad, and I did like it but not enough to consider selling my anyroad and buying it now. I think I would like to look further into doing the conversion. I mentioned it to the guy at my LBS and he said, he thought it would be really weird on that bike as those bars are made more for mountain type bikes not road bikes. I think that the anyroad is towards the mountain bike end as I sit rather upright on it. At any rate he said I would possibly have to change the brakes also in order to do the conversion. Is that really the case? If so would I be able to get hydraulic brakes for my anyroad, and if so which ones.
I think blakcloud makes a great point that perhaps the bike being a little to big for me is an advantage in this conversion...

blakcloud

I am not convinced you will have to change the brakes. The Avids come in road and mountain bike versions because they have different cable pulls. Because yours are road, they have less pull which should work with mountain bike brake levers. The other way around can be problematic but that isn't your concern. Before you do this please have this confirmed by someone much more knowledgeable than me.

While the Jones bar is used mostly on mountain bikes doesn't mean you couldn't use it on your Anyroad. You might want to look at my all time favorite bar FSA Metropolis bar. It will give you that same type of position without the loop. You can flip the bar for less rise or flip it up for more rise. There are flats for an alternative hand position.

For shifters you could look at Microshift, Dura Ace bar ends on Paul Thumbies and I am sure there are others. Good luck with whatever you decide.

gsa103

You mechanic is basically correct, as are the posters above. You will definitely need to change the brake levers, you can retain the calipers if you want to stay with mechanical discs.
Personally, I would take the opportunity to switch to hydraulic brakes. I really like Shimano Deore or SLX levers, but really any Shimano hydraulic is very good. If you're willing to order from the UK sites you can find a good set cheap.

Unfortunately, you're basically going to need an entirely new shifters & derailuer. You can probably re-use the cassette, but you may want to consider switching to a 1x11 drivertrain and just buying new everything. Again, the UK sites are your friend.

Tim_Iowa

Your LBS sounds a little clueless, or maybe they don't understand what you're asking. I work at a shop and we do these kind of conversions for folks somewhat regularly. We always counsel them first that they'll probably need new controls ($$$) along with the new bar ($$).

You can totally use Jones or other flat/upright bars on any bike, if that's the type of riding position and grip angle you want. Personally, I love Jones bars because straight flat bars hurt my wrists. The ~45-degree bend of Jones bars is more comfortable for me. There are several other "alternative" MTB bars that have similar sweep.

@blakcloud is correct that your bike (with a long top tube) lends itself to this type of conversion. The opposite conversion (drop bars on an MTB with a too-long top tube) is usually more difficult.

You can use any MTB controls (22.2 mm clamp diameter) with a flat/sweep/Jones bar, but Shimano MTB and Road 11-speed shifters aren't compatible.
There are "flat-bar road" shifters that are compatible with your 11-speed road drivetrain, the SL-RS700 or SL-U5000.

You can totally use hydraulic brake calipers with a flat/sweep/Jones bar, any MTB hydraulic would do. I recommend the mid-level Deore M615's. They're just about as good as the XT level M785's, and apparently less finicky to tune.

This is not correct.

Road-pull disc calipers (like BB7R, Spyre) work only with short-pull road levers. However, levers are available for flat bars (22.2 mm clamp) that have the correct short pull. Same brake cable pull as sidepull, cantilever, centerpull, or Mini-V brakes.

MTB-pull disc calipers (like BB7, Spyke) work only with long-pull MTB levers. However, levers are available for drop bars (23.8 mm clamp) that have the correct long pull. Same brake cable pull as V-brakes.


This is correct. Use the cockpit that give you the type of ride you want. I see people with BMX or drop bars on fat bikes, flat or swept bars on road bikes, and drop bars on MTBs.

The Jones Bend bar, Surly Open bar, On-One Mary bar, and Soma Clarence bars are all pretty similar to the FSA Metropolis bar. They have about the same grip length and angles as the Jones Loops, just without the forward extension. Therefore, they're lighter and mostly cheaper.

I really like the extension "loop" of the Jones loops for an added "aero" riding position, and to attach stuff to. Just what they were designed for.

Correct, you can use any MTB shifters with a 22.2 clamp (trigger, gripshift, or thumb lever) on Jones bars. I have Jones loop bars on two bikes, and I currently have 10- and 9-speed trigger shifters on them. I've used grip shifts as well.

However, since @GodinSession has an 11-speed Shimano road drivetrain, he needs to use 11-speed road controls for flat bars.

blakcloud

Tim thanks for the correction on the brake levers. I thought it might work, not ideally but at least work. I had a brain fart for a moment thinking about mountain bike combined brake levers and shifters and that is why I suggested the lever might work. In hindsight, it was silly advice, since he has to buy new brake levers anyway and he wouldn't be using mountain bike shifters for a 11 speed road derailleur and cassette. In the end it is all doable.

GodinSession

Hi Guys, thanks for all the help. I talked to my 'good' mechanic last night and decided to do the conversion. He is ordering all the parts. I am sure I could have saved money ordering myself online, but honestly it's a great shop and I don't mind giving them the business. I am selling some guitar stuff to pay for this conversion so it's not necessarily money directly out of my pocket. HA. In the end it will have the Shimano SL-RS700 shifters, and SLX hydraulic brakes along with new rotors. I will post pics and let you know how I like it when it's all done. Probably be a couple of weeks. I sure hope this transforms this bike into one that I enjoy riding. I would not do it if I did not think it would.

ColonelSanders

Clearly the potential for you creating your own awesome hybrid is there.

I'm really looking forward to the pics once it is all done.

AlmostTrick

Ok, so I'm a little late here, but I will post this for other readers considering a major bar change.

Do what I do. Before committing to buying everything, just slap the bar on there and see how it feels. I've even rigged up one brake (no shifters needed) and took the bike out for a spin. This way, if it feels way off, you're not out a lot of money.

OP: I hope your conversion works out for you. Keep us posted!

SkyDog75

He'll need new shifters, but Shimano SL-RS700 flat bar road shifters should work with his existing derailleurs.

Tim_Iowa

Sounds like a great setup!

Did you choose flat bars, or "alt" bars like Jones loops?

You should save all the stock parts in case you don't like it.

GodinSession

I ordered the Jones Loop H-Bar...
My Giant Contend has all 105 11 speed parts so I will save the parts off the Giant as backup, well the brifters anyway...

blakcloud

That is a great suggestion for others who are thinking about doing a conversion.

gsa103

I'm really curious for feedback on the H-loop...
I'm seriously debating swapping to an H-loop on my Toughroad.

Tim_Iowa

I'm a big fan. Personally, my wrists hurt when I ride a flat bar, and I find the ~45 degree angle of the grips to be much more comfortable.
I also really like the multiple hand positions, and the extra bar real estate for bags and accessories.

As for the hand positions:

I think the "Rest/Climb" position isn't valid. I mean, who rides with their hands right next to the stem?
But the other three positions are totally legit.

Jones Loop bar
pros:
+ multiple hand positions
+ good width for off-road control
+ more comfortable (for me) grip angle
+ lots of bar real estate for bags, lights, etc

cons:
- expensive
- heavier than straight bars
- wide (at least, wider than hybrid bars. Same average width as most current MTB bars)

considerations:
* due to sweep-back, will require a longer stem to compensate
* use bar wrap to pad the forward loop
* longer grips are preferred, many MTB grips are a bit short. Jones sells custom extra-long ESI grips (which are great)
* bar width can be trimmed down, if desired. Or buy the 660 mm version.