Rack build for Routens
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Rack build for Routens
@merziac suggested I make a thread about building the front and rear racks for a JP Routens frame. I am moving the frame on to a new forum member but wanted to build the racks before shipping it off.
The frame is a camping frame made of 531ST. It was built to take panniers front and rear and a handlebar bag. It has 3 sets of rack mounts along the seatstays on the rear, and a pair of fender eyelets. On the front there are fender eyelets and mid-fork and bottom-of-the-fork braze-ons for low riders. Front and rear have braze-on mounts for centerpulls. I've seen similar Routens' frames with the racks positioned low to the ground. I will try to emulate the design.
The frame is a camping frame made of 531ST. It was built to take panniers front and rear and a handlebar bag. It has 3 sets of rack mounts along the seatstays on the rear, and a pair of fender eyelets. On the front there are fender eyelets and mid-fork and bottom-of-the-fork braze-ons for low riders. Front and rear have braze-on mounts for centerpulls. I've seen similar Routens' frames with the racks positioned low to the ground. I will try to emulate the design.
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Excellent, can't wait to see this.
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I'm planning on using 3/8" OD seamless stainless steel tubing for both racks. I want to keep the racks relatively lightweight while still being able to carry panniers, so I am opting for 0.035" wall thickness tubing. I'll be using my TIG welder for tacking and then the joining will be done via silver brazing using Cycle Design Fillet Pro rod and flux, to keep the look traditional.
The first design choice to tackle was how the racks will be mounted. With 3/8" OD, 0.035" wall thickness tubing, the ID of my tubing is 0.305". I found some stainless eye bolts with a 5/16" thread diameter, which is 0.3125", just slightly larger than the ID of my tubing, and with the right sized bore for the M5 bolts used on the frame mounts.
The first design choice to tackle was how the racks will be mounted. With 3/8" OD, 0.035" wall thickness tubing, the ID of my tubing is 0.305". I found some stainless eye bolts with a 5/16" thread diameter, which is 0.3125", just slightly larger than the ID of my tubing, and with the right sized bore for the M5 bolts used on the frame mounts.
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I decided to start with the rear rack since it is somewhat simpler than the front rack. I'm starting with the horizontal elements of the rack.
I use a Ridgid manual tubing bender for stainless steel to make bends for racks like these. It mounts in a vise and has long levers for making the bends. I made the bends and trimmed the ends to the right dimension to fit around wheel/tire/fender. I then cleaned up the ends, and gave a quick grind to the threads of the eye bolts to allow them to fit snugly into the ends of the tubing. Fluxed and then torched.
Did a bit of clean up but will wait 'til the end to do final finishing.
I use a Ridgid manual tubing bender for stainless steel to make bends for racks like these. It mounts in a vise and has long levers for making the bends. I made the bends and trimmed the ends to the right dimension to fit around wheel/tire/fender. I then cleaned up the ends, and gave a quick grind to the threads of the eye bolts to allow them to fit snugly into the ends of the tubing. Fluxed and then torched.
Did a bit of clean up but will wait 'til the end to do final finishing.
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This is so cool.
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The new owner is going to be very, very happy!
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I cannot wait to see this. Looks like a great start so far. Thanks for taking the time to make a thread. I love fabrication pictures.
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Mad Skills Sir, very cool thanks for sharing
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I am continually amazed by the various skills displayed by our members.
Kudos to you and thanks for sharing this with us.
Kudos to you and thanks for sharing this with us.
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The first design choice to tackle was how the racks will be mounted. With 3/8" OD, 0.035" wall thickness tubing, the ID of my tubing is 0.305". I found some stainless eye bolts with a 5/16" thread diameter, which is 0.3125", just slightly larger than the ID of my tubing, and with the right sized bore for the M5 bolts used on the frame mounts.
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https://www.e-rigging.com/five-sixte...s-eye-tab-bolt
$2.61 a piece. Not super cheap but cheaper than McMaster or a framebuilder supply shop.
$2.61 a piece. Not super cheap but cheaper than McMaster or a framebuilder supply shop.
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https://www.e-rigging.com/five-sixte...s-eye-tab-bolt
$2.61 a piece. Not super cheap but cheaper than McMaster or a framebuilder supply shop.
$2.61 a piece. Not super cheap but cheaper than McMaster or a framebuilder supply shop.
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And I am pretty excited about you making some!
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sorry, I'll order soon. I'm still designing things to get cut, like a crank clearance gauge for compact and grx cranks.
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You gots the dims from the Compass gauge? I've got one of those, could measure for you if it helps.
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How's this going?
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Was on a work trip but back in the shop today to finish the rear rack. Been spending a lot of time thinking about the front. I want a modular design where the low riders can quickly be removed and installed. I have an idea in mind.
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Merz RR150 built in 78 but no racks, Original owner went with blackburns on the cross country trip he had it built for.
As my go to commuter/short tourer it would be great to have similar spec customs for it although if I ever actually stepped up I would like them to have Merz style attachments, which might be a stretch.