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BR1050 toe in?

Old 03-28-20, 04:49 PM
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BR1050 toe in?

Is there a way to adjust toe in on Shimano 105 BR1050 brake pads? Maybe I should check mechanics forum?
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Old 03-28-20, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by deephate View Post
Is there a way to adjust toe in on Shimano 105 BR1050 brake pads? Maybe I should check mechanics forum?
You can do it the old way and take a little adjustable wrench on the caliper arm to bend the slight toe in that you need.

You could possibly also spec some aftermarket brake pads that have nested spherical washers to permit more angle adjustment of the pad. This might not work depending on what size tire you are running due to tight tolerance of the caliper arms.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
You can do it the old way and take a little adjustable wrench on the caliper arm to bend the slight toe in that you need.

You could possibly also spec some aftermarket brake pads that have nested spherical washers to permit more angle adjustment of the pad. This might not work depending on what size tire you are running due to tight tolerance of the caliper arms.
I needed a second opinion before I broke out the wrench.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:23 PM
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Just take a file to the pad.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
Just take a file to the pad.
I considered that also.
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Old 03-28-20, 06:17 PM
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I broke one brake arm years ago. I will never brake another one. Big time Campy mechanic once told me, "If there was supposed to be toe in, Campagnolo would have designed the brake with toe in." Those two things guide my toe in practice.
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Old 03-28-20, 06:21 PM
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Or an old Park BT-3
https://bikerumor.com/2017/07/07/ask...hing-part-two/
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Old 03-28-20, 06:57 PM
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Maybe Campy makes a toe in tool. Or perhaps Shimano? 🤔
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Old 03-28-20, 07:18 PM
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A matchbook under the rear when tightening down doesn't work?
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 03-29-20, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize View Post
A matchbook under the rear when tightening down doesn't work?
I tried that but with every mating surface flat I can't get that to work no matter how I crank it down. It just stays in one position.
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Old 03-29-20, 10:30 AM
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How about doing nothing? I have a set of these brakes. I installed new brake pads and the brakes work fine without squealing and without toeing in.
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Old 03-29-20, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
How about doing nothing? I have a set of these brakes. I installed new brake pads and the brakes work fine without squealing and without toeing in.
I wanted to get them to modulate a little better. I have sanded down the pads but they seem to hit the rim like a brick.
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Old 03-29-20, 11:34 AM
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Have you tried new brake pads? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Bicyc...503233&sr=8-10
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Old 03-29-20, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
No. I thought about it though! I think part of the problem is the pads seem very hard, so though not worn down should still probably replaced. Maybe replace them with something better than OE?
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Old 03-29-20, 01:39 PM
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You might try these: https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Ul...Brake-Shoe-Set

Toe-in adjustable, replaceable pads, and work very well. I use these kinds of shoes on three bikes, dual pivots and single. Excellent braking.
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Old 03-29-20, 03:55 PM
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We have been bending Shimano brake calipers with an adjustable wrench to get tow in since the 80's and have yet to break anything. We just use some thin cardboard to protect the finish on the caliper and don't go crazy. Not all rear brake bridges were installed perfectly straight and this was the only way to correct the problem as adjustable pads were not invented yet.
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