AJW2W11E

I use the Large Chain ring , small cog a lot on level surfaces after I get up to speed. After you get rolling a while, it can be a really good combination. At least I thought so.Today my Chain kept falling off the large ring when I hit a bump, so I had to use the next largest Chain ring. When I finished, I noticed on phone my time for 25 miles was 5 minutes faster, even with 2 stops to put my Chain back on.What do others use the Large Chain ring, small cog for?​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

terrymorse 

When I want to take off my rear wheel, I shift into the big chainring and smallest cog.

That is the only time.

Eds0123

My Large chain ring is the size of an extra Large jumbo family size Pizza pie and my small cog is only a 3 tooth ring and I ride this sweet baby combo all the time rain shine or snow no problem all the time,

Homebrew01

I ride in what ever gear enables me to pedal about 90 rpm.

DaveSSS 

If you never use the big ring and smallest sprocket, then your big ring is too big. The small chain ring and smallest sprocket can't be used on modern 12 speed bikes. I use 46/30 chain ring and 10-36 cassette. I use every sprocket on some routes, but some only require my 30/32 for seated climbing.

Switching to the little ring is typically only done for climbing. I have an 8-13% grade on most of my routes and that's when I use the little ring. On lesser grades, I may stay in the big ring and pedal standing.

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ofajen

My bikes only have 42t chainrings, and I use the small cog mainly for ramping up before a tuck on a descent, taking a standup break on a long flat stretch or doing interval work on the flats.

Otto

genejockey 

The thing about being a larger cyclist in a hilly area is, you use ALL your gears, from the smallest to the largest, in a single ride.
"Who uses a 53 x11?" This guy.
"Who uses 36 x 34?" This guy.

50PlusCycling

I used to be the designated sprinter on my team. On those few occasions I was still in the pack in the last 1km, a 53-11 was the universal combination. Either your chain is too long, or you need to add a little tension to your derailleur.

indyfabz

I’m not taking the bait, but help yourselves.

wheelreason

Imagine how much faster you'd be if you shifted to the next larger cog...
Seriously though, a lot of inexperienced cyclist equate bigger gears with faster speeds, leaving the RMPs out of the equation. Most (fit) cyclists will be fastests in the largest gear that they can "stay on top of" if you shift up from that, you start plodding.

The Chemist

No way. If you're able to use the smallest sprocket on flat ground, you're going to be under-geared (i.e. spinning out) very early when descending. But if you live in a flat area, while you're rarely going to be descending you'll still be happy you have that extra range when you DO have to descend.

wheelreason

Imagine how much faster you'd be if you shifted to the next larger cog...
Seriously though, a lot of inexperienced cyclist equate bigger gears with faster speeds, leaving the RMPs out of the equation. Most (fit) cyclists will be fastests in the largest gear that they can "stay on top of" if you shift up from that, you start plodding.

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Iride01 

Small cog on the rear is the one with the fewest teeth right?

Perhaps your high limit on the rear or front DR isn't set correctly or your chain is too loose. Possibly from being too long. The rear DR is gummed up and the cage isn't keeping proper tension on the chain. The rear DR is out of spec for the range of cogs on the rear and/or the rings you run on the front. Or your chain line is way off.

KerryIrons

As alluded to by others, unless you are approaching or exceeding 90 rpm, you should not be using this gearing. Low cadence is inefficient and can cause knee issues. While others are suggesting rear derailleur/chain length issues, it seems more likely to be that your front derailleur is not properly positioned or adjusted.

terrymorse 

The answer to "what is efficient?" depends on your definition of efficient.

Low cadence is metabolically efficient, high cadence is metabolically inefficient.

Low cadence increases muscle fatigue, high cadence reduces muscle fatigue.

Iride01 

We don't know the ring size or cog size. An older bike with a freewheel probably only has a 14 tooth for the small and with a large ring of 50 or smaller on the front, that's a very easy gear to push when up to speed as the OP said they are.

Even on my Raleigh Competition GS with a 6 speed rear of 14-28 and a front 53/39 I was often in that 14 tooth cog with the 53 ring.

tomato coupe

Knee issues are more likely the result of mashing hard on the pedals, not merely riding at a lower cadence. For a given power, the difference in knee strain at 80 RPM cadence vs. 90 RPM cadence, is minimal.

genejockey 

80-85 is about where I like to be on longer climbs, and so far I haven't left bits of asploded knee all over the pavement.

terrymorse 

If you often use the big ring and smallest sprocket, then your big ring is too small.

Carbonfiberboy 

All of a sudden this year, my heart has imposed a 120HR limit on itself. What to do? I have a riding buddy who holds fixed gear records for long mountain rides. He runs a 90 g.i. drivetrain for these. IOW, he does his pass climbs in a very large gear and yet is very fast. WTF. So I was doing some muscle tension intervals on my rollers yesterday and see that I can obviously do climbs at the required watts at a low cadence while staying below my HR limit. Like you say, very efficient. Hmm. So first I have to get super efficient in the Z2 aerobic range, then develop some serious endurance in my legs. Might be possible, even at my age. I'll find out, I hope.

However, for normal people, yeah the big-small combo is great for whupping butt on a long shallow descent. If you're running small gears, you're not even in my mirror (53X11). We had a very good LD rider on BF long ago who used a 60t on the east slopes of the Rockies. But like I said above, using a big gear on the flat takes special training. My rollers produce about the same watts per unit speed as I see outdoors. Yesterday, I was doing 10' intervals,18.5 at 54 cadence, 137w, 114HR, not tired. Hard to find a flat longer than 3 miles around here. There ya go.

nomadmax 

That ^

Hook, line, sinker and bobber.

genejockey 

Define "often".

livedarklions

I ride low cadence on the 53x11 to go very fast, and my knees are fine (I'm 62, and been doing some variation of this my entire life). Yes, that's an anecdote that proves nothing, but it sure made me curious about all this "blow your knees out" talk. I've looked into the medical literature and can find virtually nothing that supports this myth of knee issues, just a bunch of trainer lore and anecdotes..

terrymorse 

Any time other than a full out sprint or bombing downhill?

genejockey 

How about 9 times during a 60 mile ride?