Retro-mod road bike project - Mixing new and classic
#28
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@canyoneagle Well done, I like the white, white & the pair of Cuissi
Can you recap:
Stem and Headset, I assumed 1 inch threaded steering. I was expecting it came with the headset in the ebay listing picture, and you were going to use a quill stem.
Final gearing.
I asked because I stop riding my steel Colnago w/ 9 speed Chorus because of gearing (52/36 and 13-26 (I think)), and position (short stack height).
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
Can you recap:
Stem and Headset, I assumed 1 inch threaded steering. I was expecting it came with the headset in the ebay listing picture, and you were going to use a quill stem.
Final gearing.
I asked because I stop riding my steel Colnago w/ 9 speed Chorus because of gearing (52/36 and 13-26 (I think)), and position (short stack height).
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
#29
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@canyoneagle
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
#30
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That's a gorgeous build. Finally someone with the sense to match white bar tape with a white saddle! Great job.
#31
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@canyoneagle Well done, I like the white, white & the pair of Cuissi
Can you recap:
Stem and Headset, I assumed 1 inch threaded steering. I was expecting it came with the headset in the ebay listing picture, and you were going to use a quill stem.
Final gearing.
I asked because I stop riding my steel Colnago w/ 9 speed Chorus because of gearing (52/36 and 13-26 (I think)), and position (short stack height).
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
Can you recap:
Stem and Headset, I assumed 1 inch threaded steering. I was expecting it came with the headset in the ebay listing picture, and you were going to use a quill stem.
Final gearing.
I asked because I stop riding my steel Colnago w/ 9 speed Chorus because of gearing (52/36 and 13-26 (I think)), and position (short stack height).
Is that a pump peg under the top tube?
The crank that I ordered with the build kit was a 52/36, but the one I ended up installing (I far prefer the open web style cranks on a steel frame) is a 52/39. Rear gearing is 12-27.
I'd never ridden 50/34 until I bought the used Fuji this Spring, and found that I didn't like it (with the 11-28 that was out back). I did use the low 1st gear a few times (we have some 20+% grades around here, but short), but generally found that I felt out of step with the gearing on that bike.
I was hesitant to go with a 39, but with a 180mm crank and options for a 32 out back I think I'll be OK with it.
#32
Junior Member
I must add, I’m 6’2”, been using 175 cranks after many early years being stuck with 170. I held a naïveté belief that 180 was reserved for the likes of Miguel Inderain.
Going back to the wheels, I could not decipher the rims and glad to see (as nature intended) non-black spokes. And the video, truly, a must in this digital era. Music appropriate, as for production quality, let’s say the ending is not in par with your mechanical skills.
Your original theme of Retro-mod is holding true.
#33
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Well, the plot keeps thickening, as I originally was intrigued by the Tensiometer. Thanks BTW for the Wheel Fanatyk referral, and now the INNI headset. I found the @ joejack951 ; thread, Your impressions would be appreciated. Especially, the craftsmanship, and performance.
I must add, I’m 6’2”, been using 175 cranks after many early years being stuck with 170. I held a naïveté belief that 180 was reserved for the likes of Miguel Inderain.
Going back to the wheels, I could not decipher the rims and glad to see (as nature intended) non-black spokes. And the video, truly, a must in this digital era. Music appropriate, as for production quality, let’s say the ending is not in par with your mechanical skills.
Your original theme of Retro-mod is holding true.
the innicycle headset is a winner in my book. Very nicely made, and noticeably stiffer than any quill stem I’ve used
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...n-headset.html
Last edited by canyoneagle; 09-24-18 at 07:59 AM.
#34
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It looks very nice!!!
Hopefully those cranks work out well for you.
Hopefully those cranks work out well for you.
#35
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Aright - call me weird, but I have recently resumed playing the didgeridoo (ancient Australian Aboriginal Instrument) after having not played consistently, I've been really loving it.
Anyway, here's a little hipster movie or whatever they're called these days. Had a nice backbeat, and I filled in and riffed on it.
Layer that with some raw handheld stuff featuring my current build.
I'm no Magnus Walker or Singer (as in Porsche), that's for sure. Just some in the moment fun.
For me, it represents a transformative blend of old and new, hence the (stand in) era-appropriate Nucleon front wheel, with the new Record/Arhectype rear wheel mounted to represent the transformation.
Of course, this is intentionally staged to capture a snopshot in its development, and staging it with older stuff mixed in to represent the marriage.
Anyway, something like that.
In true hipster style, the next video will incule cigarrettes. I think we could market a handlebar mounted ashtray. But, I digress......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yieWHy5bfQM
Anyway, here's a little hipster movie or whatever they're called these days. Had a nice backbeat, and I filled in and riffed on it.
Layer that with some raw handheld stuff featuring my current build.
I'm no Magnus Walker or Singer (as in Porsche), that's for sure. Just some in the moment fun.
For me, it represents a transformative blend of old and new, hence the (stand in) era-appropriate Nucleon front wheel, with the new Record/Arhectype rear wheel mounted to represent the transformation.
Of course, this is intentionally staged to capture a snopshot in its development, and staging it with older stuff mixed in to represent the marriage.
Anyway, something like that.
In true hipster style, the next video will incule cigarrettes. I think we could market a handlebar mounted ashtray. But, I digress......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yieWHy5bfQM
#36
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It was hard to visualize in my head, but I found an image online that was a pretty close match, with white saddle/tape, and I went with it.
I think it turned out great.
The bike rides very well. The EL-OS tubing keeps it stiff enough, and the ride quality is fabulous - super smooth, great handling bike.
#37
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Exceptionally nice build on a great frame.
Pray tell - not up on modern Campy -
Does the Athena group have the ability to trim FD?
And multiple cogs up and down with RD shifts?
Pray tell - not up on modern Campy -
Does the Athena group have the ability to trim FD?
And multiple cogs up and down with RD shifts?
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#38
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I'm not sure about Athena - mine is 2018 Chorus.
IIRC Athena production ended in 2014/15, and I do not think it had Ultrashift for the rear. I'd imagine the FD is trimmable, though.
From what I understand, the easy way to see if a lever has the (Mechanical) Ultrashift functionality, the thumb button will stick out more horizontally, whereas the non-US levers are sloped downwards (only 1 cog at a time)
Athena groupsets can still be found with some searching (mainly Ebay), but mainly in the black finish. I found pricing of the Athena to be higher than original (in general) because of its diminished availability. There are still NOS parts out there, though.
#39
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Thanks!
I'm not sure about Athena - mine is 2018 Chorus.
IIRC Athena production ended in 2014/15, and I do not think it had Ultrashift for the rear. I'd imagine the FD is trimmable, though.
From what I understand, the easy way to see if a lever has the (Mechanical) Ultrashift functionality, the thumb button will stick out more horizontally, whereas the non-US levers are sloped downwards (only 1 cog at a time)
Athena groupsets can still be found with some searching (mainly Ebay), but mainly in the black finish. I found pricing of the Athena to be higher than original (in general) because of its diminished availability. There are still NOS parts out there, though.
I'm not sure about Athena - mine is 2018 Chorus.
IIRC Athena production ended in 2014/15, and I do not think it had Ultrashift for the rear. I'd imagine the FD is trimmable, though.
From what I understand, the easy way to see if a lever has the (Mechanical) Ultrashift functionality, the thumb button will stick out more horizontally, whereas the non-US levers are sloped downwards (only 1 cog at a time)
Athena groupsets can still be found with some searching (mainly Ebay), but mainly in the black finish. I found pricing of the Athena to be higher than original (in general) because of its diminished availability. There are still NOS parts out there, though.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#40
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In my brief time on the bike thus far, I am loving the Chorus. Brakes are stunningly good, shifting is crisp. I've been a Campy guy most of my life, but the last Campy I'd ridden with any regularity was 10 speed Ergo in 2000-ish.
Compared to the Ultegra (6700 with R8000 brakes) on my previous bike, this is easily another level. The Ultegra felt a bit more vague in the shifting department (I think this is just the Shimano vs Campy "feel") - shifts were fine, but lever feel was not as positive. The R8000 brakes were excellent, but the Chorus brakes are next level.
I decided on Chorus based on some research, where I found a consensus of opinion that the only thing Chorus gives up to the Record/SR groups is a little weight and some pizzaz.
I bought mine from Chain Reaction in the UK, which had the best price for the groupset at the time (I paid $1100 with free shipping).
Last edited by canyoneagle; 09-24-18 at 11:47 AM.
#41
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#42
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Chorus FD is trimmable only for the inner ring (one click). The outer ring doesn't have trimming capability and doesn't need it in my experience. I use the full cassette without any chain rub, and I'm not even using it on an approved frame (135mm rear dropout spacing disc frame). RD shifts 5 up/3 down at a time. Makes living with a compact crank easy (lots of clicking with Shimano to deal with the big jump between rings).
#45
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Update
Now that I've been able to get out and ride, I thought I'd share some impressions.
First of all, I am finding the 52/39 with 12-27 to be a great combination. I was a little concerned that the 39 x 27 would be a bit too much on steeper hills, since I am still getting back into shape. I have found this not to be an issue. I do have to get out of the saddle for sections steeper than about 12-15%, but I can climb seated for everything else. Even in my current state of fitness (as in getting back into shape), I can hold 39-25 or 39-27 seated pretty steadily on 8%-10% grades. Granted, the biggest climb around these parts is only a mile long (4%) and the steeper hills are only a quarter mile or so.
I never felt quite comfortable with the compact setup on my previous bike, and am happy I went with the 52/39.
As expected, the bike rides exceptionally well. Not a surprise for a pro-level frame. The EL-OS tubing provides plenty of stiffness, and there is no noticeable flex in the BB shell, even when I'm out of the saddle on those 180mm cranks. Pretty damn cool. Handling is phenomenal - stable yet agile. This bike reminds me of my beloved (but gone) Tommasini Tecno.
The Chorus group is excellent. Super crisp shifting, stunning braking.
There is something sublime about the hum of the road that resonates through nice handbuilt wheels and a steel frame that I have not experienced on non-steel framed bikes. The only way to make it better would be to put lightweight tubulars on the bike.
I have found, however, that I need another saddle. Since my riding position is a little more forward leaning than the Fuji, the rounded profile of the saddle that I have (Fabric Line Shallow) puts more pressure on my perineum due to the curved shape (and the narrow relief channel). I've ordered a Selle SMP Forma, which should arrive Friday.
All in all, I am elated with the build. Can you tell?
Now that I've been able to get out and ride, I thought I'd share some impressions.
First of all, I am finding the 52/39 with 12-27 to be a great combination. I was a little concerned that the 39 x 27 would be a bit too much on steeper hills, since I am still getting back into shape. I have found this not to be an issue. I do have to get out of the saddle for sections steeper than about 12-15%, but I can climb seated for everything else. Even in my current state of fitness (as in getting back into shape), I can hold 39-25 or 39-27 seated pretty steadily on 8%-10% grades. Granted, the biggest climb around these parts is only a mile long (4%) and the steeper hills are only a quarter mile or so.
I never felt quite comfortable with the compact setup on my previous bike, and am happy I went with the 52/39.
As expected, the bike rides exceptionally well. Not a surprise for a pro-level frame. The EL-OS tubing provides plenty of stiffness, and there is no noticeable flex in the BB shell, even when I'm out of the saddle on those 180mm cranks. Pretty damn cool. Handling is phenomenal - stable yet agile. This bike reminds me of my beloved (but gone) Tommasini Tecno.
The Chorus group is excellent. Super crisp shifting, stunning braking.
There is something sublime about the hum of the road that resonates through nice handbuilt wheels and a steel frame that I have not experienced on non-steel framed bikes. The only way to make it better would be to put lightweight tubulars on the bike.
I have found, however, that I need another saddle. Since my riding position is a little more forward leaning than the Fuji, the rounded profile of the saddle that I have (Fabric Line Shallow) puts more pressure on my perineum due to the curved shape (and the narrow relief channel). I've ordered a Selle SMP Forma, which should arrive Friday.
All in all, I am elated with the build. Can you tell?
Last edited by canyoneagle; 10-02-18 at 03:43 PM.
#46
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I've been in contact with Tiziano Zullo since this frame came on my radar (Ebay purchase from a seller in Poland). So nice to establish a connection to the man who made the frame. This is an aspect I love about this bike of mine. The frame has a soul - there is something visceral and hard to quantify with that, as I see it.
It reminds me of the central question in Pirsig's book around what is "quality", and how do we know it?
We're now friends on facebook, and are sharing images of how his work still lives. Pretty cool.
It reminds me of the central question in Pirsig's book around what is "quality", and how do we know it?
We're now friends on facebook, and are sharing images of how his work still lives. Pretty cool.
#47
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Current iteration.
Just replaced the saddle, and very happy with the decision thus far.
I ordered a set of Veloflex masters that I will be mounting to the spare set of Nucleons. This will be my choice for good rural roads without typical urban puncture risks.
Just replaced the saddle, and very happy with the decision thus far.
I ordered a set of Veloflex masters that I will be mounting to the spare set of Nucleons. This will be my choice for good rural roads without typical urban puncture risks.
#48
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Beautiful bike by the way.
Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 10-09-18 at 07:02 AM.
#49
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Nice looking bike. Anyone can strip a fully functional bike, but putting them back together properly to suit your needs is more fun. I recently acquired a '78 Peugeot PR10 with a Stronglight TS 52/42 crank. The TS has a stripped pedal thread, and I didn't feel like messing with French threads, though I know they could be re-tapped 9/16. I had a spare Sugino GT 52/34 laying around, so I threw it on, and it works perfect with a 28-13t 6 speed freewheel. The 34 has worked for any hill so far, and with the 52-13, it pulls like a locomotive on the flats. Have fun with yours.
I haven't played with the chain length yet. It runs fine big big, small small not so much.
I haven't played with the chain length yet. It runs fine big big, small small not so much.
#50
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Nice looking bike. Anyone can strip a fully functional bike, but putting them back together properly to suit your needs is more fun. I recently acquired a '78 Peugeot PR10 with a Stronglight TS 52/42 crank. The TS has a stripped pedal thread, and I didn't feel like messing with French threads, though I know they could be re-tapped 9/16. I had a spare Sugino GT 52/34 laying around, so I threw it on, and it works perfect with a 28-13t 6 speed freewheel. The 34 has worked for any hill so far, and with the 52-13, it pulls like a locomotive on the flats. Have fun with yours.
I haven't played with the chain length yet. It runs fine big big, small small not so much.
I haven't played with the chain length yet. It runs fine big big, small small not so much.
There is something liberating about working on one's own bicycle. Steel frames are practical, but there is also something...... special about them. Especially the lugged frames.
I've ridden nice carbon, but for me steel is where I'm at.