Best fixie under 1200$
#26
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I jumped from a Kilo TT to a 2012 TK3.
If I had planned on keeping the TK3 stock I would have been disappointed. Open ball hubs, split seam rims, flexy ass crankset, garbage cog. The only factory part left on mine is the headset, which has held up well. That being said, I was 230lbs and really put the boots to that thing.
A TK3 with a set of 200$ Velocitys thrown on it would hit the 1000$ mark, throwing the track drops in the garbage for some road bars might cost you 20-30 bucks. That would make it my choice.
Saying Leaders hold up well when 90% of any of these Aluminum Chinese tank frames problem's are component related and they don't sell completes is kind of hilarious. Extra hilarious when the Leaders are actually known for seatpost problems.
If I had planned on keeping the TK3 stock I would have been disappointed. Open ball hubs, split seam rims, flexy ass crankset, garbage cog. The only factory part left on mine is the headset, which has held up well. That being said, I was 230lbs and really put the boots to that thing.
A TK3 with a set of 200$ Velocitys thrown on it would hit the 1000$ mark, throwing the track drops in the garbage for some road bars might cost you 20-30 bucks. That would make it my choice.
Saying Leaders hold up well when 90% of any of these Aluminum Chinese tank frames problem's are component related and they don't sell completes is kind of hilarious. Extra hilarious when the Leaders are actually known for seatpost problems.
#27
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I jumped from a Kilo TT to a 2012 TK3.
If I had planned on keeping the TK3 stock I would have been disappointed. Open ball hubs, split seam rims, flexy ass crankset, garbage cog. The only factory part left on mine is the headset, which has held up well. That being said, I was 230lbs and really put the boots to that thing.
A TK3 with a set of 200$ Velocitys thrown on it would hit the 1000$ mark, throwing the track drops in the garbage for some road bars might cost you 20-30 bucks. That would make it my choice.
Saying Leaders hold up well when 90% of any of these Aluminum Chinese tank frames problem's are component related and they don't sell completes is kind of hilarious. Extra hilarious when the Leaders are actually known for seatpost problems.
If I had planned on keeping the TK3 stock I would have been disappointed. Open ball hubs, split seam rims, flexy ass crankset, garbage cog. The only factory part left on mine is the headset, which has held up well. That being said, I was 230lbs and really put the boots to that thing.
A TK3 with a set of 200$ Velocitys thrown on it would hit the 1000$ mark, throwing the track drops in the garbage for some road bars might cost you 20-30 bucks. That would make it my choice.
Saying Leaders hold up well when 90% of any of these Aluminum Chinese tank frames problem's are component related and they don't sell completes is kind of hilarious. Extra hilarious when the Leaders are actually known for seatpost problems.
#28
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I'm not saying its a must have, you'll really only feel it all in in clipless pedals. But, cup and cone china hubs are pretty high maintenance and split rim is hood, I'd say wheels are a must have. I dunno what years came with that wheel setup though.
#29
Senior Member
Plus isn't it better to choose components yourself? Wheels, pedals, saddles, and handlebars on a lot of new bikes just get shelved anyways. The drive train on many fixed gears are not always the geared to the rider either and end up getting changed anyways. The OP has a $1200 budget, a Leader frame with good component choices are well within that budget.
Not sure why everything is so hilarious.
#30
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Newer Leader models late 2011 onwards fixed this problem as long as you primed the seatpost. "Hilariously", the seatpost issue was resolved 4 model generations ago. I'm not trying to make you look like an ass, but it'd be a shame if you convinced someone not to get a new Leader frame based on old knowledge.
Yeah, for some people its better to build your own bike. Probably not the people asking how to blow 1200$ on bike forums. With most of the cheapest stuff on retrogression, I didn't spend much time hunting out optimally cheap parts, I got a 2015 725 build to 990$, plus 140$ shipping, plus maybe the 20$ you'll pay a friend to build it. But if you're making a "what bike should i buy" post you probably don't have that friend so probably a local shop to assemble. Dunno if retrogression will put it together as a complete for you.
So theres 1200$, maybe more.
Theres the Felt TK3 thats about 350$ cheaper,
Damn the Langster street bike is 650$ out the door.
The Giant Omnium is $1200 with nicer everything
The Fuji Track 1.0 you could probably do for 1200 or so from Performance Bike.
So I don't see the Value, its a frame thats maybe a step better than Crew/Unknown/Submithousebrandhere and then having to deal with the markups of finding parts individually. Like, for 735 Frameset price you could buy a Yoeleo Track frame and be the king of street hipsterness if you wanted to go that route.
Thats why I think a Leader is a wack suggestion for some rando on the internet wanting to go ride with his uncle on the weekends.
#31
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#32
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Newer Leader models late 2011 onwards fixed this problem as long as you primed the seatpost. "Hilariously", the seatpost issue was resolved 4 model generations ago. I'm not trying to make you look like an ass, but it'd be a shame if you convinced someone not to get a new Leader frame based on old knowledge.
#33
Senior Member
I'm not about to White Knight for Leader, but I've had no issues with mine (early 2013). Then again, I only weigh 135.
#34
Senior Member
^ I had creaking on my 2013 725, but not slippage whatsoever. Creaking went away with some grease.
Great frame that can be had a great price these days.
Great frame that can be had a great price these days.
#35
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Yeah, that's about my weight too. Maybe that's why I haven't broken the carbon seatpost in my 2010 Leader 721tr.
#36
Your cog is slipping.
Newer Leader models late 2011 onwards fixed this problem as long as you primed the seatpost. "Hilariously", the seatpost issue was resolved 4 model generations ago. I'm not trying to make you look like an ass, but it'd be a shame if you convinced someone not to get a new Leader frame based on old knowledge.
The slippage issue with the pre-2011 integrated seatpost clamp system could be worked around by priming the clamp prior to installing the seatpost but ham-fisted lunkheads kept stripping the threads and ruining their frames. The next version (initially called the '2012 Mid') had a separate seatpost collar but the round sleeve welded into the aero seat tube was well-known for creaking if even one of the internal welds let go, which was common because again, the ham-fists were overtightening the ever-loving crap out of their seatpost collars and weakening the welds (however, I had two extremely creaky 2012-2014 Leaders and am always extremely careful to not overtighten things). This problem continued until late 2014, when they switched up the design for the two-bolt/cutaway system seen on the 2015 frames.
At any rate, the majority of "known issues" with Leader frames stem from people being dumb.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 12-11-14 at 07:28 PM.
#37
Senior Member
Yeah, that's, uh, what I meant to say.
#39
Senior Member
So I'm assuming since most of the issues come from user error a warning now comes with leader frames explicitly stating torque specs must be followed?
#40
Senior Member
I mean I've never stripped anything on my bike or on cars I've worked on before but then again I'm not an idiot and don't ham fist things and follow specs or use good judgement. Note: my drinking is completely unrelated and acting a fool and knowing what you're are doing are two different things.
#41
Jedi Master
My Wabi Lightening might just be my favorite bike, but I am more of a distance than a city rider. It will also be over $1200 all-in. For the city I would probably get something a little more "urban".
#42
Your cog is slipping.
#43
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This is not 100% accurate.
The slippage issue with the pre-2011 integrated seatpost clamp system could be worked around by priming the clamp prior to installing the seatpost but ham-fisted lunkheads kept stripping the threads and ruining their frames. The next version (initially called the '2012 Mid') had a separate seatpost collar but the round sleeve welded into the aero seat tube was well-known for creaking if even one of the internal welds let go, which was common because again, the ham-fists were overtightening the ever-loving crap out of their seatpost collars and weakening the welds (however, I had two extremely creaky 2012-2014 Leaders and am always extremely careful to not overtighten things). This problem continued until late 2014, when they switched up the design for the two-bolt/cutaway system seen on the 2015 frames.
At any rate, the majority of "known issues" with Leader frames stem from people being dumb.
The slippage issue with the pre-2011 integrated seatpost clamp system could be worked around by priming the clamp prior to installing the seatpost but ham-fisted lunkheads kept stripping the threads and ruining their frames. The next version (initially called the '2012 Mid') had a separate seatpost collar but the round sleeve welded into the aero seat tube was well-known for creaking if even one of the internal welds let go, which was common because again, the ham-fists were overtightening the ever-loving crap out of their seatpost collars and weakening the welds (however, I had two extremely creaky 2012-2014 Leaders and am always extremely careful to not overtighten things). This problem continued until late 2014, when they switched up the design for the two-bolt/cutaway system seen on the 2015 frames.
At any rate, the majority of "known issues" with Leader frames stem from people being dumb.
Customer: "Uhhh I got a flat somehow"
Bike Shop Employee: "when was the last time you pumped it?"
Customer: "uhhhh well uhhhh probably uhhh you know not that long ago"
Bike Shop Employee: "did you jump over any curbs?"
Customer: "well not really...I mean I did maybe once but really carefully, my friend at a bike shop said it was ok"
Bike Shop Employee: "you should pump your tires more often and check them before you ride and maybe not jump over curbs which can cause flats especially in under inflated tubes"
#44
Fresh Garbage
It isn't even funny how often I have to tell customers to pump their tires so that they don't get another flat.
#46
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So we've progressed from people overtightening seatpost bolts, to a philosophical treatise on human nature.